Chapter 3 "Days 2 & 3"

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ScottB
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Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:02 pm
Location: Pepperell, Massachusetts

Chapter 3 "Days 2 & 3"

Post by ScottB »

Day 2, 12/1/06

This morning we woke to cloudy skies and a light rain. We figured it would clear up soon, so we decided to hit Starfish and stock up on some essentials. Although smaller than most supermarkets we are accustomed to, Starfish had everything we needed. Prices were definitely a bit higher, but nothing to lose sleep over. Is there anything ever to lose sleep over on this island? Headed straight back to Gallows and started getting ready to hit the north shore beaches. I made up some turkey subs, and packed the cooler with water. Grabbed the snorkel gear, neat sheet, cooler…..we’re off!!

Bill had said the snorkeling at Maho was good, so that’s where we ended up first. The parking is at it’s easiest here, as you can practically drive right up and park on the beach. The cove is highly protected, and harboring nice calm water. To no surprise, it’s yet another gorgeous beach. It seemed as if every beach is almost too good to be true. Soft white sand, brilliant turquoise water, absolute paradise. There were a few other people there, but everyone was spread out enough to make it feel isolated at the same time.

Taking Bill’s advice (thanks once again buddy), we walked all the way to the right hand side of the beach, and entered there. Very gradual & sandy entry made things simple. The swim out to the point on the right is maybe 100 yards or so. There wasn’t too much to see until we were out on the rocky point that sticks out. There was a school of small silver fish hanging around the point. The school was quite thick, forming that magical cloud that you can hardly see through. These small fish had a shimmer of light blue running down their sides, which as the sun reflected off them, they appeared electric. Among the rocks, coral had grown in certain areas, and the area was alive with life. As we were hovering amongst the cloud of silversides, a couple of large Tarpon decided to swim into the scene. These were fairly large fish, I’m guessing 4-5 feet in length easy. There’s something about swimming with huge fish that just takes your breath away. I live for things such as this. One particular coral head had a beautiful Queen Angel hanging around making her flashy appearance. I tried several times to swim down and get a good picture, but she was spooky for sure. Most of the regular sightings were present as well including Sargent Majors, Blue Tangs, Spotlight Parrotfish,Yellowtails, etc. The big Tarpon were our focus, and stayed around for many close swim-bys. As we were having our fun with the Tarpon, along comes a 5+ foot Nurse shark…..just awesome!! I actually find myself giggling into my mask I’m having so much fun out there. Anyone else do that?? Although we had a lot of great sightings on this snorkel, we both felt that it was still a bit stirred up from the week of northern swells. Trust me, no complaints.

We must of snorkeled for and hour and a half, and decided to take a break and head back into the beach. We just layed back on the neet sheet, and baked in the sun. That warm sun feels so nice when you just get out from the water. We sat back and chowed down on those turkey subs, and sipped some ice cold waters. Are we having fun yet? Silly question!! After lunch, just some more chillin on the beach, watching time slip by. Every beach on this island makes me feel like I’m on one of those Corona commercials.

After a while on Maho, we packed up, and decided to try Trunk Bay. The parking lot was only half full, so it didn’t appear to be very crowded. As we walked past the small building where you usually pay, there was a sign on the window that said: “Free Day”. I guess it was our lucky day. Yes, there were a handful of people here, maybe 50-60 or so. This beach is pretty large, and most everyone was spread out. I honestly didn’t feel crowded whatsoever. I suppose by STJ beach standards that amount of people is crowded, but we’ve certainly experienced MUCH worse. The sand was deep, white and soft as silk. Yet again, surrounded by turquoise shades of blue that boggle the mind. This really is a gem of a beach, but I totally understand how the people are a minus for some.

As usual, we plopped our stuff on the neat sheet, and plunged into the water, snorkel gear in tow. The wind was kicking up pretty good, but the small island seemed to keep that corner of the beach somewhat calm. We headed out and snorkeled along the marked trail. Coral bleaching is very apparent here, there just wasn’t a lot of color. There was a decent amount of soft corals growing, but the hard corals looked like they had seen better days. The marine life is definitely missing here. After swimming ½ way around the island, we both bobbed our heads up, and both wondered where all the fish are. Between the coral bleaching and definite lack of fish life, this snorkel probably only lasted 45 minutes or less. One thing is for sure, one (not so great) snorkel still beats the crap out of working!!
We headed back in, and took a stroll down the length of the beach. You tend to sink in with every step here, and it feels good on your feet. I’m sure many people out there love Trunk, but it really wasn’t our cup of tea.

At this point, it was mid afternoon, and we decided to head back to Gallows and rest a little while. This next part of my story may upset a few people, but I’m a straight shooter, and will tell it how I see it. (Don’t worry, this isn’t that bad). Neither of us felt like going out to dinner, so we thought we give the famous Uncle Joes BBQ a try. I’m guessing it was only around 5pm or so by the time we walked down into town. There were a couple of local women working Uncles Joes. We stepped up to order, and certainly didn’t get any warm fuzzies on the service side of things. They weren’t rude, but definitely didn’t seem to care whether we ordered or not. No problem, we did not take any offense, but we were just kind of surprised, as service elsewhere on the island had been so great. Our order was ready in less than 10 minutes. A pleasant surprise as I was ready to wait a while due to reading many reports of this place. Anyhoo, we took our dinner, and hoofed it back up to Gallows. The lower deck below the pool got the call, and was a great setting to sit and eat dinner. I was really psyched for these ribs because of so many rave reviews of this place. I hate to disappoint my friends, but the ribs were sub-par at best. Although the BBQ flavor was very good, the meat was chewy, and many of the ribs had some kind of cartilage running through them. It was like having a bone with every other bite. The side dishes of coleslaw & rice were fine, but the ribs get a generous C-. Rumor has it that Uncle Joe is not on the island, maybe this is a problem for them? It also could have been an off night for them…..who knows, but we didn’t let it spoil yet another great day on STJ.

It was still early, so we decided to walk back into town, and do a little shopping. I am not big on shopping at all, but we did manage to find a couple t-shirts, and also some simple jewelry items for some people at home. The Beach Bar was calling our name once again, and of course we just had to stop to make sure the bar wasn’t caving in or something. Once again, we found ourselves sitting back, tipping a few back, and reminiscing about the days events. Always service with a smile here, and the feeling of being welcome. I can’t think of a much better way to cap off the day. Both very tired, we called it quits for the night, and retired early.

Day 3, 12/2/06


A nice lazy late start to the day, as we both slept in later than normal. Once again, those blues skies were starring us in the face this morning. I cooked up some eggs & ham with a bagel, and we relaxed on our porch soaking up that wonderful view. Always a winner!!
After breakfast, we packed up the cooler & other gear, and headed off towards Coral Bay. We got a tip from someone at Gallows that Salt Pond might have better visibility due to the northern swells & wind. As we got closer to Coral Bay, of course we had to stop and take a few snapshots at one of the overlooks. Just around the corner, we came upon our first wild donkey. There were actually 3 of them, and the first one walked right up to the jeep for a fine portrait shot. A little further down the road, the wild goats had us stopped in our tracks. I had certainly read about a few goats on the island, but with no exaggeration, there had to have been 50-60 goats. They just kept coming & coming out of the woods. You just don’t see this very often, and we both really got a kick out of it. Just driving through Coral Bay was enough for us to realize the east end would be way too quiet for us. I see a lot of folks really love the solitude of the east end, but I guess we just prefer to be a little closer to civilization.

Finally after weaving through Coral Bay, we make it to Salt Pond parking lot. There were already 6 or 7 cars there by 10am. The walk down to the beach is easy, and took maybe 5 minutes or so. I’m sure you can guess what happens next, drop our stuff on the beach, and hit the water. The beach here does not offer hardly any shade, and is relatively thin. Quite a few pebbles, along with tiny burr-like things that love to attach themselves to everything in sight. Believe me, they don’t feel good on bare feet. Certainly nothing to slow us down, and we were in the water within minutes. I had read several times that the rocks out towards the middle of the bay were the place to be. It’s a long swim, approximately 200 yards. The first 100 yards was nothing to write home about, and very cloudy visibility. As we neared the rocks offshore, the visibility improved dramatically. Once we were out amongst the rocks, we found steep dropoffs, along with some fantastic coral heads. Colors & visibility were excellent. This reef seemed very healthy, was alive with fish. Saw a few very large reef Snappers, some of which were pushing 30-40 lbs. One coral head in particular sticks out in my mind as this baby had to be 15-20 feet tall. This radical formation was a fish magnet, and we hovered over it for quite a while just enjoying several different species of reef fish. I saw another Queen Angel here, which happens to be one of my favorites. Being that we were quite a distance from the beach, the water was pretty choppy, and there is a significant current pull out there. I would not recommend this area unless you are a strong swimmer. The swim back in was against the current, and definitely takes some effort. Well worth the long swim, as we had found great visibility along with fabulous coral & sea life. The walk back up the hill is not bad, but you are in the sun, and it does get hot. If you snorkel as long as we do, all these hills after snorkeling take their toll on the ole calf muscles. Bring water for sure here.

It was lunchtime, so we headed back to Coral Bay & Skinny Legs. Being from Massachusetts, I had heard several times that one of the owners (Moe)of Skinny Legs was a big Patriots fan. Also being a huge Pats fan, I had brought a nice Patriots jersey, along with a Santa Clause hat (with Patriots logo) to give to Moe. Unfortunately Moe was not around, and I was unable to hook up a fellow Pats fan. We decided to try later in the week when he was supposed to be there. I must admit, all the good hamburger reviews were spot on. Those burgers were thick & tasty, and went down perfectly with a few ice cold Coronas. Skinnys is totally laid back, and just a good spot to wet the whistle, and fill the tummy. Of course we played tourist again, and stuck our heads in their sign out front for some pictures. A true sign of STJ virgins I guess.

After lunch we headed back through Coral Bay, and drove out to Lameshur Bay. This beach was all rocks, and snorkel entry would have been tricky. A tad further was Little Lameshur, which had more of a sandy beach. Following our usual routine, we were floundering about within minutes of getting on the beach. We tried snorkeling out around the rocks to the right, which were close to shore, maybe 50 yards. Very little to see here, and just a couple juvenile reef fish hanging around. We decided to try combing the grass flats in hopes of seeing a ray or maybe a turtle….no such luck. Swimming across the the beach, we made our way up the left hand shoreline along the rocks. Visibility pretty good, but really not a whole lot to see. Very little coral growth, and very sparse fish activity. My guess is it’s probably bad timing for this beach. The crowds were light here, maybe a dozen people at most. I’m convinced at this point that there really aren’t too many bad views on this island. Beach after beach, and nothing else matters!!

It was now late afternoon, and we started the jaunt back to Cruz Bay. Somewhere around Trunk, we stopped and picked up a couple of girls that had flagged us down. I believe they had been somewhat abandoned by some friends, and were trying to back to Cruz Bay…No prob….gotcha covered. It turns out they were both nurses working on STT. Like 99% of the folks we have met on this amazing journey, they were very friendly. Once back at Gallows, we both napped for a bit after a good snorkel day. A bit later, we had met up with Sharon & Bob from the forum who were also staying at Gallows. We hung out and chatted for while through sunset. Very nice folks. There was a free concert that night in the ballpark near the Texaco, and we had made plans with Bob & Sharon to meet up after dinner, and check out the concert together.

We chose the Banana Deck tonight which is right cross the street from the Beach Bar. Very casual place, with a nice atmosphere. Service was very friendly, but with a touch of island time mixed in. I honestly don’t remember what we ate here, and don’t have it written down in my little log, so I’ll have to wing it here. If I remember correctly, the food was pretty good, but not earth shattering. Just another casual place to fill my face after a very satisfying day. After dinner, we strolled over to Café Roma to meet up with Bob & Sharon. The ballpark was just a couple minute walk up the road, and we grabbed some seats together. It was a jazz band, with a few local female vocalists. I thought both had very good voices, and the jazz was slow, but soothing. Tracie & I stayed for 6-7 tunes, and decided to rolls over to Quiet Mon Pub for a nightcap. The owner, Kelly, was there, and we chatted with her for a while, and had a couple caribs, along with those funny shots called Red Headed Sluts. I laugh every time I write that. I did get trapped at Quiet Mon by one of the local drunks. He was a super nice guy, but pretty hammered, and slurring most of his words. I probably understood maybe every third or fourth word from his mouth, so it was a bit awkward. You sort of just smile and shake your head up & down while occasionally saying “uh huh”. He meant no harm, and I guess just needed a drinking buddy that night. Tracie caught on after a while, and rescued me away, and out of the bar. Thanks honey!!

Yet another full action day, and were really draggin ass at this point. Up the hill we wandered, finally making it home to Gallows. Not quite sure my head ever hit the pillow. Hello REM stage 4!!.......
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Coden
Posts: 2229
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:18 pm
Location: Ky

Post by Coden »

That was such a nice, relaxing report that I was drifting off to sleep. I could even hear the ocean! :lol:

Thank you for all of the time that you've take to share your trip with all of us. 8)
Coden
Berlingirl
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 6:09 pm
Location: New England

Post by Berlingirl »

No offense taken on the ribs...

We've been going for a number of years and always stopped in several times for dinners to go while on island.

The 2nd to the last time we were there, we found the same experience you did...not great...very disappointed...

My husband runs a small meat company so he knew right away...and said Joe is buying a "cheaper" grade of rib meat.

Thought we'd try it one time that trip at MY insistance...same results again. I think if Joe had a suggestion box, I'd say...spend a bit more on a better grade of meat and raise the prices to cover that cost. I'd know I'd be willing to pay a bit more for something edible..
Hoping for a USVI ticker in 2013!
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sea-nile
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Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 1:24 pm
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

trip report

Post by sea-nile »

Great report! Thanks for all of the insights on the condition of the reefs. Did you swim all around Truck Cay? We found that the far end was the best. It was real calm when we were there though.
Your trip was easy to read and enjoyable. You are a good writer. It kept my attention!
FlaGeorge
Posts: 802
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:41 am
Location: The Sunny South

Post by FlaGeorge »

Thanks Scott for the report – very informative. Too bad about Uncle Joe’s – we have never eaten there but I’m going to give it a go on our next visit. Salt pond sounds wonderful, yep – never been there either. Thanks again for writing.
FlaGeorge

"Swim Against The Current - Even a Dead Fish Can Go With The Flow"
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