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Costa Rica Pics - monkeys, zip lines and one angry volcano
Costa Rica Pics - monkeys, zip lines and one angry volcano
We recently returned from a 10-day trip to Costa Rica. I have a ten page trip report that I won't impose on the lovely members of this board, but it was a wonderful trip. Our primary interests were: to see the impressive and active Arenal volcano, to zip line, and to view wildlife in the very remote Osa Peninsula, called the most biologically diverse place on earth.
In some ways, Costa Rica reminded me of St. John. The hiking, the dense forest, the gorgeous vistas. Costa Rica is a pretty amazing place, and if it's not on your short list, you may want to re-visit that list.
Here was our itinerary:
May 1: Arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica, overnight at Orquideas Inn
May 2-5: Drive to La Fortuna/Arenal Volcano area, three nights at Hotel El Silencio Del Campo
May 5: Back to San Jose, overnight at Orquideas Inn
May 6-10: Hour-long puddle jumper flight to Puerto Jimenez in the Osa Peninsula, four nights at Bosque Del Cabo lodge
Costa Rica is a place of intense beauty and adventure. We zip lined, visited natural hot springs, hiked an active volcano, did several nature tours, visited an amazing animal sanctuary, hiked dense rainforest trails and beautiful Pacific Beach trails. We saw animals including coatis, agoutis, wild scarlet macaws, spiders, snakes, bats (including one in our cabin), four types of monkeys and colorful frogs.
Our lodge in the Osa Peninsula, called Bosque Del Cabo, was one of the most amazing places I've ever stayed. After spending four nights in the most humid place on earth without A/C (too remote to support the power supply needed for A/C), I think I can confidently say I'm up for the challenge of no A/C on St. John.
The people of this country were beautiful and kind. I did miss snorkeling. St. John soon come.
Here are our pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12707846@N ... 027013231/
Here's our You Tube video of zip lining. Sorry about the poor quality, all we had was our point and shoot camera: http://youtube.com/watch?v=9Mx1v0lBQR8
In some ways, Costa Rica reminded me of St. John. The hiking, the dense forest, the gorgeous vistas. Costa Rica is a pretty amazing place, and if it's not on your short list, you may want to re-visit that list.
Here was our itinerary:
May 1: Arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica, overnight at Orquideas Inn
May 2-5: Drive to La Fortuna/Arenal Volcano area, three nights at Hotel El Silencio Del Campo
May 5: Back to San Jose, overnight at Orquideas Inn
May 6-10: Hour-long puddle jumper flight to Puerto Jimenez in the Osa Peninsula, four nights at Bosque Del Cabo lodge
Costa Rica is a place of intense beauty and adventure. We zip lined, visited natural hot springs, hiked an active volcano, did several nature tours, visited an amazing animal sanctuary, hiked dense rainforest trails and beautiful Pacific Beach trails. We saw animals including coatis, agoutis, wild scarlet macaws, spiders, snakes, bats (including one in our cabin), four types of monkeys and colorful frogs.
Our lodge in the Osa Peninsula, called Bosque Del Cabo, was one of the most amazing places I've ever stayed. After spending four nights in the most humid place on earth without A/C (too remote to support the power supply needed for A/C), I think I can confidently say I'm up for the challenge of no A/C on St. John.
The people of this country were beautiful and kind. I did miss snorkeling. St. John soon come.
Here are our pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/12707846@N ... 027013231/
Here's our You Tube video of zip lining. Sorry about the poor quality, all we had was our point and shoot camera: http://youtube.com/watch?v=9Mx1v0lBQR8
Last edited by alw1977 on Thu May 15, 2008 9:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
waterguy - would you? Here's Part I... if others are interested I can either post the whole thing or just send you the word doc. I'm not completely finished yet.
--------------------------------------------------
COSTA RICA TRIP REPORT, PART I:
I'm sitting in my office, a white-walled room starkly illuminated by fluorescent lights. If it weren't for the large picture window that faces lushly-leaved trees, I might go crazy. It all seems so harsh: the fluorescent lights, the suit jackets, the sounds of the office phones, ringing and ringing. Costa Rica was so soft. The sounds, the air, the light, the voices of its people, all somehow less intrusive than the soundtrack that accompanies life in Atlanta. So subtle and dream-like was Costa Rica that I wonder if I imagined it. The pictures and video prove that it wasn't all in my head, but still it feels like a dream. An oasis, really.
My compulsive trip planning (combined with quite a bit of luck) allowed our time in Costa Rica to be quite idyllic. I used Trip Advisor, Fodor’s and other online resources to plan this vacation, and it worked quite nicely for us. At the advice of folks from the Fodors message board, I planned no activities in advance. May marks the official beginning of “green season,” so rates and occupancy levels were lower. One can never really account for the weather, but the beginning of this particular “green season” was very dry. Nary a rain drop until our second to last night. Rainy season? As if.
So you know who’s delivering this report, we’re a married couple in our early 30s with no kids. I tend to be quite verbose, so this report will have multiple parts. I've tried to put section headers, so readers can cherry pick the sections that may interest them. Happy reading!
Flights/Arrival:
We flew the evening Delta flight direct from ATL-SJO. After consuming a few beers pre-flight, we took off on time, watched a terrible movie called 27 Dresses (sorry for you if it’s your fav), and ate some subpar meal that contained, predictably, chicken. That pretty much sums it up. The on-time part was the only thing I really cared about anyway. We arrived at SJO right before 9:00 PM, breezed through immigration and walked outside to meet our driver from Orquideas Inn.
When you walk out of SJO, you get assaulted by a crush of bodies calling “Taxi!” A rather trying start, but don’t get discouraged, it’s likely to be the only unnerving portion of your vacation, unless of course you choose to zip line. We quickly located our name on the Orquideas sign and met our driver. We waited a minute or two for another couple and off we went. A short fifteen minutes later we arrived at our abode for the night.
Orquideas Inn:
We spent two nights here in a Garden Side room, our first night and a night before our Nature Air flight to Puerto Jimenez. For $65 a night, this place was fine. The road noise is audible, even from the “Garden” side, so if you’re a light sleeper, I’d probably look elsewhere or get a higher room category. Considering we spent less than 12 hours at this hotel from the time we arrived to the time we left in our rental car, I was pleased. It was a place to lay my head, period.
I can say that the service was good. The hotel is American-owned, and the service is geared towards North Americans accustomed to efficiency. We allowed Orquideas to book our rental car and transfer to and from Pavas airport, and everything was on-time and as advertised.
Car Rental/Mapache:
Friendly, on time, and the car was in good condition. We rented a Suzuki Vitara. Truthfully, it was probably a little large for the two of us, but it got us to, from, and around Arenal with no problem. I liked that Mapache had local offices in La Fortuna in case something did go wrong. Total cost (with all insurance) was somewhere between $250-$300 for four days. A bit steep, but I was adamant about having our own vehicle for this portion of the trip. It was worth the cost to have the flexibility, in my opinion.
Driving in Costa Rica:
At times a little nutty, but no worse than many Caribbean islands we’ve visited. Roads narrow at points and bridges tend to be one way. Every now and again we’d encounter a truck that seemed determined to occupy 2/3 of the road. They’re bigger, so they win. That’s my motto. Still, the roads seemed safer than I-85 at rush hour. The drive to our hotel in La Fortuna took us approximately three hours, with no stops along the way.
Hotel El Silencio Del Campo (SdC from here on out):
This small, family-owned hotel is near La Fortuna, on the dormant side of the volcano. The grounds hold sixteen individual, identical cottages. The hotel has all of the expected amenities, with A/C, a mini-fridge, and a very good breakfast included for the $100/night room rate. The cabins are exceptionally clean, the grounds lush and flowered, and the small hot springs at the back of the property are refreshing at sundown. The new bar area they’ve built is nice and serves reasonably-priced mixed drinks, beers and sodas. The staff is friendly and the front desk can arrange excursions for you if you choose.
If I had to rate this hotel, I’d give it 3.5 stars out of 5. I’d give it a 4 if it were located further from La Fortuna. Let me explain: I think SdC is perfect for first-timers to Costa Rica who might be a little nervous about encountering critters or animals. However, I found the situation of the hotel to be less than ideal for my interests.
First, though the grounds have a nice duck pond and a cage for caymans, I saw no other true wildlife beyond birds on the property. When we drove around to some other hotels, like the Observatory Lodge, Lost Iguana, etc, I saw or heard monkeys, interesting insects, frogs, etc.
Second, I hesitated to stay at Arenal Observatory Lodge because I heard it was “so far out.” True, but we ended up spending 70% of our daylight hours on that side of the volcano. Between SkyTrek, the Hanging Bridges, hiking the volcano trails, and visiting Tabacon, we might as well have stayed as far from La Fortuna as possible. WHEN we go again (‘cause we will), I’ll book well in advance at the Observatory Lodge.
Don’t misunderstand me, I really enjoyed my stay at SdC, but in retrospect I think other properties may have fit my personal interests a little better. Oh, and I missed sleeping in the same bed with my husband. The double beds sort of killed a little of the romance, you know?
WARNING: Tangent Ahead. Our first night at SdC, we went to bed around 9:00 PM. We both shot up around 11:00 PM when, over the loud den of the A/C, we heard a shrill little squeak. “What was that?” we each said. Was it the A/C? No. Was it IN our cabin? Turned on all the lights, and didn’t find a thing. We go back to bed and hear it again. And again. We finally fall asleep in our respective beds. A few hours later, I’m tangled in a horrible night terror where a bat has flown in and grabbed my toes in its teeth. Now, in my waking life, I’m not one bit afraid of bats. But that night, in my dream, I woke my husband up with my screams of “Help!” It turns out I fell asleep on my foot, which was itself asleep and causing me a lot of pain. We decided that we needed to toughen up before hitting the Osa Peninsula.
The Volcano, Hiking and the La Fortuna waterfall:
We were lucky, I know it. While we visited Arenal, the volcano showed herself to us each and every day. It was visible from about 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM each and every day. We’ve got pictures, lots of them. I found myself mesmerized by the volcano. No matter the angle, I couldn’t stop watching it and photographing it. I think I became obsessed.
On our first afternoon, we decided to hike to the La Fortuna waterfall. On our way down the dirt road to the waterfall, we were caught in a bit of a horse stampede. A stable appeared to be driving their horses from one area to another, and our little SUV got caught right in the middle. It was actually a fairly comical and magical experience. The best part was about five minutes after we finally passed the horses, I jumped out of the car to get a good shot of the volcano. In the distance I hear rapidly approaching hooves and I turn to realize the horses have sped up and are now frantically galloping my direction. My husband calls “Uh… honey, maybe you want to get back in?” Apparently my face was priceless when I finally realized what was happening. Again, I’d been so mesmerized by the volcano and taking the perfect picture of HER (I decided Arenal is a woman) that I was in a complete daydream state and didn’t realize how close the horses were coming.
We arrived at the waterfall in short measure, went up to the top viewing platform and then quickly made our way down to the bottom. Let me tell you, the La Fortuna hike has NOTHING on the Pacific Trail at Bosque Del Cabo. If you’ve done both, you know what I mean. This waterfall is powerful and gorgeous. We both climbed down and attempted to swim in the pool, but the water was frigid. I stood in the water up my thighs and ordered my husband to “get the picture already.” The little river area downstream from the main pool is lovely, and woowee, we got to see some nekkid people over there. Some free-thinking European tourists were using the area to change and weren’t shy about doing so.
The canyon area at the bottom of the waterfall is quite lush due to the moisture. Green moss covers the rocks and really makes for a great setting. In my opinion, this is a “don’t miss” in the Arenal area.
We went on two hikes in the Arenal area. One afternoon, we paid the $4 admission into the Arenal Observatory Lodge and hiked a couple of their small trails. We saw some howler monkeys, hanging Montezuma nests and got a great show from the volcano. The grounds at AOL are extensive and, as I previously stated, I’ll choose this property when we return.
One morning we opted to hike the Los Tucanes (I might be spelling that incorrectly) trail right before the AOL gate. There are some random people who try to charge you $4 for the trail. I’m not sure if this is a scam or a legit fee, but it seemed to be a ramshackle operation at best. We paid it, but I’m not sure we should have. The guy taking our money pointed out a sloth in the tree above. I have no idea if this small sloth was real or a distraction, but the whole situation made me uncomfortable. This is probably the only time I felt as if I might have been scammed in Costa Rica.
Regardless, the trail was nice. We hiked the 1992 lava flow trail and got quite close to the volcano. Through my binoculars I could see the boulders falling. From the trail you could hear the volcano rumbling loudly. It was an awesome experience. On the trail, we saw a snake and got very close to a Montezuma, whose call sounds oddly like a video game sound effect.
Snake count: 1, luckily they don't frighten me.
--------------------------------------------------
COSTA RICA TRIP REPORT, PART I:
I'm sitting in my office, a white-walled room starkly illuminated by fluorescent lights. If it weren't for the large picture window that faces lushly-leaved trees, I might go crazy. It all seems so harsh: the fluorescent lights, the suit jackets, the sounds of the office phones, ringing and ringing. Costa Rica was so soft. The sounds, the air, the light, the voices of its people, all somehow less intrusive than the soundtrack that accompanies life in Atlanta. So subtle and dream-like was Costa Rica that I wonder if I imagined it. The pictures and video prove that it wasn't all in my head, but still it feels like a dream. An oasis, really.
My compulsive trip planning (combined with quite a bit of luck) allowed our time in Costa Rica to be quite idyllic. I used Trip Advisor, Fodor’s and other online resources to plan this vacation, and it worked quite nicely for us. At the advice of folks from the Fodors message board, I planned no activities in advance. May marks the official beginning of “green season,” so rates and occupancy levels were lower. One can never really account for the weather, but the beginning of this particular “green season” was very dry. Nary a rain drop until our second to last night. Rainy season? As if.
So you know who’s delivering this report, we’re a married couple in our early 30s with no kids. I tend to be quite verbose, so this report will have multiple parts. I've tried to put section headers, so readers can cherry pick the sections that may interest them. Happy reading!
Flights/Arrival:
We flew the evening Delta flight direct from ATL-SJO. After consuming a few beers pre-flight, we took off on time, watched a terrible movie called 27 Dresses (sorry for you if it’s your fav), and ate some subpar meal that contained, predictably, chicken. That pretty much sums it up. The on-time part was the only thing I really cared about anyway. We arrived at SJO right before 9:00 PM, breezed through immigration and walked outside to meet our driver from Orquideas Inn.
When you walk out of SJO, you get assaulted by a crush of bodies calling “Taxi!” A rather trying start, but don’t get discouraged, it’s likely to be the only unnerving portion of your vacation, unless of course you choose to zip line. We quickly located our name on the Orquideas sign and met our driver. We waited a minute or two for another couple and off we went. A short fifteen minutes later we arrived at our abode for the night.
Orquideas Inn:
We spent two nights here in a Garden Side room, our first night and a night before our Nature Air flight to Puerto Jimenez. For $65 a night, this place was fine. The road noise is audible, even from the “Garden” side, so if you’re a light sleeper, I’d probably look elsewhere or get a higher room category. Considering we spent less than 12 hours at this hotel from the time we arrived to the time we left in our rental car, I was pleased. It was a place to lay my head, period.
I can say that the service was good. The hotel is American-owned, and the service is geared towards North Americans accustomed to efficiency. We allowed Orquideas to book our rental car and transfer to and from Pavas airport, and everything was on-time and as advertised.
Car Rental/Mapache:
Friendly, on time, and the car was in good condition. We rented a Suzuki Vitara. Truthfully, it was probably a little large for the two of us, but it got us to, from, and around Arenal with no problem. I liked that Mapache had local offices in La Fortuna in case something did go wrong. Total cost (with all insurance) was somewhere between $250-$300 for four days. A bit steep, but I was adamant about having our own vehicle for this portion of the trip. It was worth the cost to have the flexibility, in my opinion.
Driving in Costa Rica:
At times a little nutty, but no worse than many Caribbean islands we’ve visited. Roads narrow at points and bridges tend to be one way. Every now and again we’d encounter a truck that seemed determined to occupy 2/3 of the road. They’re bigger, so they win. That’s my motto. Still, the roads seemed safer than I-85 at rush hour. The drive to our hotel in La Fortuna took us approximately three hours, with no stops along the way.
Hotel El Silencio Del Campo (SdC from here on out):
This small, family-owned hotel is near La Fortuna, on the dormant side of the volcano. The grounds hold sixteen individual, identical cottages. The hotel has all of the expected amenities, with A/C, a mini-fridge, and a very good breakfast included for the $100/night room rate. The cabins are exceptionally clean, the grounds lush and flowered, and the small hot springs at the back of the property are refreshing at sundown. The new bar area they’ve built is nice and serves reasonably-priced mixed drinks, beers and sodas. The staff is friendly and the front desk can arrange excursions for you if you choose.
If I had to rate this hotel, I’d give it 3.5 stars out of 5. I’d give it a 4 if it were located further from La Fortuna. Let me explain: I think SdC is perfect for first-timers to Costa Rica who might be a little nervous about encountering critters or animals. However, I found the situation of the hotel to be less than ideal for my interests.
First, though the grounds have a nice duck pond and a cage for caymans, I saw no other true wildlife beyond birds on the property. When we drove around to some other hotels, like the Observatory Lodge, Lost Iguana, etc, I saw or heard monkeys, interesting insects, frogs, etc.
Second, I hesitated to stay at Arenal Observatory Lodge because I heard it was “so far out.” True, but we ended up spending 70% of our daylight hours on that side of the volcano. Between SkyTrek, the Hanging Bridges, hiking the volcano trails, and visiting Tabacon, we might as well have stayed as far from La Fortuna as possible. WHEN we go again (‘cause we will), I’ll book well in advance at the Observatory Lodge.
Don’t misunderstand me, I really enjoyed my stay at SdC, but in retrospect I think other properties may have fit my personal interests a little better. Oh, and I missed sleeping in the same bed with my husband. The double beds sort of killed a little of the romance, you know?
WARNING: Tangent Ahead. Our first night at SdC, we went to bed around 9:00 PM. We both shot up around 11:00 PM when, over the loud den of the A/C, we heard a shrill little squeak. “What was that?” we each said. Was it the A/C? No. Was it IN our cabin? Turned on all the lights, and didn’t find a thing. We go back to bed and hear it again. And again. We finally fall asleep in our respective beds. A few hours later, I’m tangled in a horrible night terror where a bat has flown in and grabbed my toes in its teeth. Now, in my waking life, I’m not one bit afraid of bats. But that night, in my dream, I woke my husband up with my screams of “Help!” It turns out I fell asleep on my foot, which was itself asleep and causing me a lot of pain. We decided that we needed to toughen up before hitting the Osa Peninsula.
The Volcano, Hiking and the La Fortuna waterfall:
We were lucky, I know it. While we visited Arenal, the volcano showed herself to us each and every day. It was visible from about 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM each and every day. We’ve got pictures, lots of them. I found myself mesmerized by the volcano. No matter the angle, I couldn’t stop watching it and photographing it. I think I became obsessed.
On our first afternoon, we decided to hike to the La Fortuna waterfall. On our way down the dirt road to the waterfall, we were caught in a bit of a horse stampede. A stable appeared to be driving their horses from one area to another, and our little SUV got caught right in the middle. It was actually a fairly comical and magical experience. The best part was about five minutes after we finally passed the horses, I jumped out of the car to get a good shot of the volcano. In the distance I hear rapidly approaching hooves and I turn to realize the horses have sped up and are now frantically galloping my direction. My husband calls “Uh… honey, maybe you want to get back in?” Apparently my face was priceless when I finally realized what was happening. Again, I’d been so mesmerized by the volcano and taking the perfect picture of HER (I decided Arenal is a woman) that I was in a complete daydream state and didn’t realize how close the horses were coming.
We arrived at the waterfall in short measure, went up to the top viewing platform and then quickly made our way down to the bottom. Let me tell you, the La Fortuna hike has NOTHING on the Pacific Trail at Bosque Del Cabo. If you’ve done both, you know what I mean. This waterfall is powerful and gorgeous. We both climbed down and attempted to swim in the pool, but the water was frigid. I stood in the water up my thighs and ordered my husband to “get the picture already.” The little river area downstream from the main pool is lovely, and woowee, we got to see some nekkid people over there. Some free-thinking European tourists were using the area to change and weren’t shy about doing so.
The canyon area at the bottom of the waterfall is quite lush due to the moisture. Green moss covers the rocks and really makes for a great setting. In my opinion, this is a “don’t miss” in the Arenal area.
We went on two hikes in the Arenal area. One afternoon, we paid the $4 admission into the Arenal Observatory Lodge and hiked a couple of their small trails. We saw some howler monkeys, hanging Montezuma nests and got a great show from the volcano. The grounds at AOL are extensive and, as I previously stated, I’ll choose this property when we return.
One morning we opted to hike the Los Tucanes (I might be spelling that incorrectly) trail right before the AOL gate. There are some random people who try to charge you $4 for the trail. I’m not sure if this is a scam or a legit fee, but it seemed to be a ramshackle operation at best. We paid it, but I’m not sure we should have. The guy taking our money pointed out a sloth in the tree above. I have no idea if this small sloth was real or a distraction, but the whole situation made me uncomfortable. This is probably the only time I felt as if I might have been scammed in Costa Rica.
Regardless, the trail was nice. We hiked the 1992 lava flow trail and got quite close to the volcano. Through my binoculars I could see the boulders falling. From the trail you could hear the volcano rumbling loudly. It was an awesome experience. On the trail, we saw a snake and got very close to a Montezuma, whose call sounds oddly like a video game sound effect.
Snake count: 1, luckily they don't frighten me.
-
Tracy in WI
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:39 am
- Location: Wisconsin
COSTA RICA TRIP REPORT, PART II:
Continuation of my Trip Report, May 1 - May 10th. This section covers our Arenal area activities. SdC is an abbreviation for our hotel, El Silencio Del Campo.
SkyTrek:
I was nervous as h*ll about ziplining, but was determined to do it. For some reason, I honed in on SkyTrek. I’ve heard the lines at Arenal Paraiso and Aventura Mundo (maybe?) are good, but the idea of being stuck on wooden platforms waaaay up in the trees while waiting just didn’t appeal. So, SkyTrek it was. We decided to book this for our first full day in Arenal. No use in dallying. If I was going to do it, I was going to do it as quickly as possible, before I had time to change my mind.
We used our travel alarm to get up around 8:00 for our 10:30 zip line reservation. SdC seemed awful quiet that morning, and the desk clerk looked at me like I was nuts when I asked for directions and inquired if we had time to make it for our 10:30 reservation. When we got in our car, I understood why. It wasn’t 9:30, like I thought, but 7:30. Wrong time zone, bozo. See, the sun comes up at around 5:30 in Costa Rica, and so by 7:00, it looks like 9:00 EST. It confuses your circadian rhythms, I swear.
We drove out to SkyTrek anyway, and they were able to put us on the 8:30 zip. This was fortuitous for two reasons: 1. there were only five people in our party, us and three really nice people from France, and; 2. it was hotter than Hades by the time 10:30 rolled around.
We rode up on the SkyTram and heard howlers in the forest. In retrospect, that was pretty cool, but I was too da*n nervous to even process the moment. The further up we climbed, the more my nerves started to mess with me. Could I really do this? I mean, we are HIGH up here. I made idle chit-chat with our guide and tried not to vomit. About ten minutes into the ride, our little chalet suddenly lurched, and all was quiet. I panicked for a moment, the chalet swinging, my eyes wider than a kinkajou, while our guide said, “power outage.” I was shaking, my nerves were shot. Is this a vacation or a waterboarding session?
Eventually, we made it to the top. It was cool up there and the two practice lines were laughable. The practice lines were nothing – I mean NOTHING – compared to the first line. It’s like comparing the Dumbo ride to the Tower of Terror, if that comparison means anything to you. You are literally pushed off a metal platform into a giant precipice.
So, the three French people in our group went. If they were nervous, they didn’t show it. I got hooked up and changed my mind. My husband had that look, the one that said “oh, here we go again.” He said at that point, he knew I wasn’t going to do it. The fear had won. My husband went across, looking a bit nervous before his turn.
At that point, the guide asked me if I wanted to go tandem. “That means we go faster,” I said. He confirmed this was true. I asked if this was the “worst” line. He said he couldn’t promise me that. I said I wasn’t sure. He was patient, but I could hear the walkie-talkie going.
So, in an instant of madness, I decided. I did it. After all, these zip lines were part of the whole reason I wanted to go to Costa Rica in the first place. I was hooked on, tandem with the guide, closed my eyes, and said “ready.”
The first five seconds were sheer terror. The drop was significant, the speed was rapid, and a scream came from somewhere very deep within. Seeing as we had about thirty seconds to chat because the line is so long, the guide told me I needed to relax, and to open my eyes. I did, and the screaming stopped. The view was, well, it was… indescribably beautiful. Enough to shut me up, and in case you haven’t figured it out by now, that’s pretty hard to do. Arenal loomed straight ahead, the lake to my left. The trees below were the greenest green, and before I knew it, here comes the landing platform.
We came to a stop, and everyone looked at me expectantly. “Okay, that was really fun,” I admitted. Everyone laughed, and the zipping commenced. I got nervous again on the fourth line for no good reason, but overall I enjoyed the experience tremendously. The last major zip line was the best. You cross the valley and actually zip through the trees before landing on a very tall metal bridge. For me, the worst part was the sixty or so stairs at the end. By then, my legs were Jell-O.
When I finished, my husband informed me that doing this was no small feat. My only problem? Now I can’t punk out on the big coasters anymore. He says that zip lining was way more freaky than amusement park rides. Note to self: do not plan trip to amusement park anytime soon.
In all seriousness, once I got over my initial terror, zip lining was one of the most incredible things I have ever done. I loved it, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I highly recommend SkyTrek, and I can advise you to go early in the morning if you go during green season. Because we did, our guide had our camera the entire time. We have a ton of pictures and three video clips.
Tabacon Hot Springs and Spa:
Despite everyone’s assertions that Eco Thermales is the best, I wanted to see Tabacon. I’ve been told by people who know me that it is cool, so I decided we’d try it out. I also made reservations for an hour long massage at the spa. Our massage appointments were at 5:00 pm, and we arrived around 4:15. We had the chance to walk around and view the gorgeous grounds before we checked in at the spa. Despite its “Disney” image, Tabacon is really beautiful. It’s honestly like a dream in there, and it’s pretty amazing that someone conceived and executed this place.
The spa was nice. My only gripe is with the spa locker rooms, which are tiny for some reason. Other than that, the service was impeccable, the check-in process efficient, and the waiting room beautiful. As we headed to our couple’s massage area, a light rain started. It last fifteen minutes, and was the only rain we saw while in Arenal.
Lying under the cabana, a light rain falling at dusk while the hot springs rushed past us, was heavenly. The masseuse was very good, and I felt quite wobbly by the time my deep tissue massage was over.
I’m not quite sure what products they use at Tabacon, but the smell was wonderful. After your massage, they take you to a couch where you are given tropical juice and a plate of nuts and candied fruits. The fig was really incredible; my husband called it a quasi-healthy donut.
We spent a couple of hours enjoying the hot springs. My husband was glad we saw it during the day, as he wasn’t as impressed with the springs by night. We were done after about an hour and half, and headed back to SdC.
I was glad I saw Tabacon, but I probably wouldn’t pay to go back to the springs. The spa, yes, the springs, no.
Hanging Bridges:
On Sunday afternoon, we decided to do the Hanging Bridges. We didn’t book through an agency, but went straight to the bridges themselves. We were on a 1:00 hike, and we were the only people with the guide. Other tour buses rolled up with 6-10 people on each one, and it was nice to have a private tour without paying the surcharge one normally pays for such a luxury. Our hike lasted about three hours, and we saw all three types of MotMot, several very odd insects, an agouti, all manner of lizards, tent bats (the guide took us off the trail and we climbed up to get a look at them), more ants than Paul Bunyan’s boots could crush, and a wasp carrying a spider torso back to her nesting area. Apparently, the wasp puts the spider in a coma, removes its legs, lays her eggs on the spider torso and when her babies hatch – voila – instant meal. Gnarly. No monkeys, but one can’t control the monkeys, can one?
I found the hike to be extremely interesting and informative, and thought it was a worthwhile use of our time and money.
Continuation of my Trip Report, May 1 - May 10th. This section covers our Arenal area activities. SdC is an abbreviation for our hotel, El Silencio Del Campo.
SkyTrek:
I was nervous as h*ll about ziplining, but was determined to do it. For some reason, I honed in on SkyTrek. I’ve heard the lines at Arenal Paraiso and Aventura Mundo (maybe?) are good, but the idea of being stuck on wooden platforms waaaay up in the trees while waiting just didn’t appeal. So, SkyTrek it was. We decided to book this for our first full day in Arenal. No use in dallying. If I was going to do it, I was going to do it as quickly as possible, before I had time to change my mind.
We used our travel alarm to get up around 8:00 for our 10:30 zip line reservation. SdC seemed awful quiet that morning, and the desk clerk looked at me like I was nuts when I asked for directions and inquired if we had time to make it for our 10:30 reservation. When we got in our car, I understood why. It wasn’t 9:30, like I thought, but 7:30. Wrong time zone, bozo. See, the sun comes up at around 5:30 in Costa Rica, and so by 7:00, it looks like 9:00 EST. It confuses your circadian rhythms, I swear.
We drove out to SkyTrek anyway, and they were able to put us on the 8:30 zip. This was fortuitous for two reasons: 1. there were only five people in our party, us and three really nice people from France, and; 2. it was hotter than Hades by the time 10:30 rolled around.
We rode up on the SkyTram and heard howlers in the forest. In retrospect, that was pretty cool, but I was too da*n nervous to even process the moment. The further up we climbed, the more my nerves started to mess with me. Could I really do this? I mean, we are HIGH up here. I made idle chit-chat with our guide and tried not to vomit. About ten minutes into the ride, our little chalet suddenly lurched, and all was quiet. I panicked for a moment, the chalet swinging, my eyes wider than a kinkajou, while our guide said, “power outage.” I was shaking, my nerves were shot. Is this a vacation or a waterboarding session?
Eventually, we made it to the top. It was cool up there and the two practice lines were laughable. The practice lines were nothing – I mean NOTHING – compared to the first line. It’s like comparing the Dumbo ride to the Tower of Terror, if that comparison means anything to you. You are literally pushed off a metal platform into a giant precipice.
So, the three French people in our group went. If they were nervous, they didn’t show it. I got hooked up and changed my mind. My husband had that look, the one that said “oh, here we go again.” He said at that point, he knew I wasn’t going to do it. The fear had won. My husband went across, looking a bit nervous before his turn.
At that point, the guide asked me if I wanted to go tandem. “That means we go faster,” I said. He confirmed this was true. I asked if this was the “worst” line. He said he couldn’t promise me that. I said I wasn’t sure. He was patient, but I could hear the walkie-talkie going.
So, in an instant of madness, I decided. I did it. After all, these zip lines were part of the whole reason I wanted to go to Costa Rica in the first place. I was hooked on, tandem with the guide, closed my eyes, and said “ready.”
The first five seconds were sheer terror. The drop was significant, the speed was rapid, and a scream came from somewhere very deep within. Seeing as we had about thirty seconds to chat because the line is so long, the guide told me I needed to relax, and to open my eyes. I did, and the screaming stopped. The view was, well, it was… indescribably beautiful. Enough to shut me up, and in case you haven’t figured it out by now, that’s pretty hard to do. Arenal loomed straight ahead, the lake to my left. The trees below were the greenest green, and before I knew it, here comes the landing platform.
We came to a stop, and everyone looked at me expectantly. “Okay, that was really fun,” I admitted. Everyone laughed, and the zipping commenced. I got nervous again on the fourth line for no good reason, but overall I enjoyed the experience tremendously. The last major zip line was the best. You cross the valley and actually zip through the trees before landing on a very tall metal bridge. For me, the worst part was the sixty or so stairs at the end. By then, my legs were Jell-O.
When I finished, my husband informed me that doing this was no small feat. My only problem? Now I can’t punk out on the big coasters anymore. He says that zip lining was way more freaky than amusement park rides. Note to self: do not plan trip to amusement park anytime soon.
In all seriousness, once I got over my initial terror, zip lining was one of the most incredible things I have ever done. I loved it, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I highly recommend SkyTrek, and I can advise you to go early in the morning if you go during green season. Because we did, our guide had our camera the entire time. We have a ton of pictures and three video clips.
Tabacon Hot Springs and Spa:
Despite everyone’s assertions that Eco Thermales is the best, I wanted to see Tabacon. I’ve been told by people who know me that it is cool, so I decided we’d try it out. I also made reservations for an hour long massage at the spa. Our massage appointments were at 5:00 pm, and we arrived around 4:15. We had the chance to walk around and view the gorgeous grounds before we checked in at the spa. Despite its “Disney” image, Tabacon is really beautiful. It’s honestly like a dream in there, and it’s pretty amazing that someone conceived and executed this place.
The spa was nice. My only gripe is with the spa locker rooms, which are tiny for some reason. Other than that, the service was impeccable, the check-in process efficient, and the waiting room beautiful. As we headed to our couple’s massage area, a light rain started. It last fifteen minutes, and was the only rain we saw while in Arenal.
Lying under the cabana, a light rain falling at dusk while the hot springs rushed past us, was heavenly. The masseuse was very good, and I felt quite wobbly by the time my deep tissue massage was over.
I’m not quite sure what products they use at Tabacon, but the smell was wonderful. After your massage, they take you to a couch where you are given tropical juice and a plate of nuts and candied fruits. The fig was really incredible; my husband called it a quasi-healthy donut.
We spent a couple of hours enjoying the hot springs. My husband was glad we saw it during the day, as he wasn’t as impressed with the springs by night. We were done after about an hour and half, and headed back to SdC.
I was glad I saw Tabacon, but I probably wouldn’t pay to go back to the springs. The spa, yes, the springs, no.
Hanging Bridges:
On Sunday afternoon, we decided to do the Hanging Bridges. We didn’t book through an agency, but went straight to the bridges themselves. We were on a 1:00 hike, and we were the only people with the guide. Other tour buses rolled up with 6-10 people on each one, and it was nice to have a private tour without paying the surcharge one normally pays for such a luxury. Our hike lasted about three hours, and we saw all three types of MotMot, several very odd insects, an agouti, all manner of lizards, tent bats (the guide took us off the trail and we climbed up to get a look at them), more ants than Paul Bunyan’s boots could crush, and a wasp carrying a spider torso back to her nesting area. Apparently, the wasp puts the spider in a coma, removes its legs, lays her eggs on the spider torso and when her babies hatch – voila – instant meal. Gnarly. No monkeys, but one can’t control the monkeys, can one?
I found the hike to be extremely interesting and informative, and thought it was a worthwhile use of our time and money.
COSTA RICA TRIP REPORT, PART III:
The Quest for Glowing Lava and the Debauchery that Followed:
After the Hanging Bridges, the afternoon sun was low in the sky. I got the bright idea to stop by the nearby Lost Iguana Resort for a “drink or two” while we waited out nightfall. Notice I put a “drink or two” in quotes. One turned into two turned into three turned into four turned into… oh god, I don’t even know.
See, this family reunion showed up. They were fresh off an adrenaline high from canyoning or zipping or something, and they were raring to go. There were about a dozen of them, and they were jolly. It was happy hour, after all. Then, we met a great honeymoon couple from somewhere fabulous and ended up chatting all night. Rounds were bought, stories were exchanged, at some point a tree frog showed up. I held him. He was cold and sticky and cute.
I was drunk. Funny things happened. I laughed a LOT. At what, you ask? Ah, some things aren’t for a trip report, but it was a memorable night. And that was one of the things I liked most about Costa Rica – the travelers I met there seemed to be of the same mind. All were adventurous, most were friendly, everyone looked liked hell (but better than ever somehow) and no one cared. My husband noted the distinct lack of pretension, even at the most expensive places. I told him it was the climate.
Here’s how I see it: if you can’t wear fancy clothes, do your hair, wear make-up or jewelry, use your mobile devices or drive an expensive import, then nothing separates you from anyone else and walls that are normally solidly erected around a person get knocked down awfully quickly.
Eventually, though, all good things must come to an end. We rolled out of Lost Iguana around 10:00, my husband and I wondering why we didn’t spring the extra dough to stay there. There’s always next time, isn’t there?
10:00 PM. That was a record for us in Costa Rica.
Oh, and we did see a little bit of that red, glowing lava. Not much, but I can say that I saw it, as hazy as the memory is.
Food in the Arenal area:
Oddly for me, I haven’t discussed food a ton in this report. Many people describe the food in Costa Rica as bland. I didn’t think so, but then again I can live on black beans and rice, and regularly test this theory when at home. Costa Rican food overall seemed healthier and not as full of additives or sugar as food in the States. I lost weight on this trip, and I ate like a horse.
Fact: Lizano sauce (a Costa Rican condiment) is like a very powerful hypnotic drug (not that I know – I swear). At first, I wasn’t sure I liked it. But my second meal, I liked it. By my third meal, I put it on everything. By the end of the trip, if I didn’t see Lizano sauce on the table when I sat down, I requested it before the waiter even asked for my drink order. Like the volcano, Lizano sauce hooked me good. I didn’t bring any back with me and now I’m about to order a 700 ml bottle which will cost me $15 once you factor in shipping. Oh, mighty corporate giant Knorr who now owns Lizano, PLEASE bring this stuff to the US.
I digress. We ate at SdC for breakfast and dinner two of the nights. We had appetizers at Lost Iguana on our Night of Debauchery. Lunches were at sodas (local eateries), and I liked those meals the best. We ate at Lava Rocks and Soda La Parada in La Fortuna. The natural juice shakes, con agua, were my favorite.
I want to give special mention to the café at the Hanging Bridges. We had lunch there one day, and it was one of the best meals of our trip. I had the fabulous Casado con pollo and my husband enjoyed a giant burger. If you’re up that way, make time for lunch. The people were so nice, the view of the volcano is fabulous, the price was right and the food good.
Do you know the way to San Jose?:
On Monday, post-Debauchery, I woke up with a raging headache. Are you surprised? The Gallo Pinto (doused in Lizano) at SdC helped somewhat, and we lounged around the bar at the back of the SdC property before checking out around 11:30 AM. We drove straight back to San Jose, promptly missed the “Zoo Ave” exit and enjoyed a little ride all the way to the international airport. Yea!
Eventually, we found our way back to the Orquideas Inn, had greasy nachos and a chicken club at the Marilyn Monroe bar, read our books and fell asleep around 8:30 PM. We had an early flight out of Pavas airport to Puerto Jimenez, and our wake-up was at 5:30 AM. Okay, the early wake-up is a cop out. I was still hungover.
Bright and early the next morning, our driver fought madly through San Jose traffic to get us to Pavas. I think Atlanta traffic is bad… San Jose’s traffic is worse than bad. It’s ungodly.
We arrive at Pavas and I wait nervously for our Nature Air flight. I’m a bit of a control freak, and flying isn’t really something I can control, seeing as I’m not a pilot and whatnot. I actually popped a pill for this flight, as I didn’t want to scream at the first bump we hit and scare the devil out of my fellow passengers. Plus, my husband was excited and really wanted to enjoy the flight.
I chill out. They call our flight. We head out to the plane. I bravely board the plane. In the video my husband took, I don’t really LOOK scared. My eyes look a bit odd, but that might have been the Xanax. Thanks Dr. Kirk!
Anyway, we obviously made it okay. It was pretty bumpy over the mountains that fringe San Jose (and this was confirmed by a resident of Puerto Jimenez on our plane), but once we got over the Pacific, it was incredibly smooth. We had a brief landed at Drake Bay, checked the runway for cows, and took off again. Within minutes, we reached Puerto Jimenez and I was in the vehicle bound for Bosque Del Cabo, 40 minutes away. I must say, I really enjoyed our little puddle jumper flight. Once we got over San Jose, it felt like floating and the views were gorgeous. I was happy to finally be in the Osa Peninsula, home to more monkeys than people.
I was really excited.
The Quest for Glowing Lava and the Debauchery that Followed:
After the Hanging Bridges, the afternoon sun was low in the sky. I got the bright idea to stop by the nearby Lost Iguana Resort for a “drink or two” while we waited out nightfall. Notice I put a “drink or two” in quotes. One turned into two turned into three turned into four turned into… oh god, I don’t even know.
See, this family reunion showed up. They were fresh off an adrenaline high from canyoning or zipping or something, and they were raring to go. There were about a dozen of them, and they were jolly. It was happy hour, after all. Then, we met a great honeymoon couple from somewhere fabulous and ended up chatting all night. Rounds were bought, stories were exchanged, at some point a tree frog showed up. I held him. He was cold and sticky and cute.
I was drunk. Funny things happened. I laughed a LOT. At what, you ask? Ah, some things aren’t for a trip report, but it was a memorable night. And that was one of the things I liked most about Costa Rica – the travelers I met there seemed to be of the same mind. All were adventurous, most were friendly, everyone looked liked hell (but better than ever somehow) and no one cared. My husband noted the distinct lack of pretension, even at the most expensive places. I told him it was the climate.
Here’s how I see it: if you can’t wear fancy clothes, do your hair, wear make-up or jewelry, use your mobile devices or drive an expensive import, then nothing separates you from anyone else and walls that are normally solidly erected around a person get knocked down awfully quickly.
Eventually, though, all good things must come to an end. We rolled out of Lost Iguana around 10:00, my husband and I wondering why we didn’t spring the extra dough to stay there. There’s always next time, isn’t there?
10:00 PM. That was a record for us in Costa Rica.
Oh, and we did see a little bit of that red, glowing lava. Not much, but I can say that I saw it, as hazy as the memory is.
Food in the Arenal area:
Oddly for me, I haven’t discussed food a ton in this report. Many people describe the food in Costa Rica as bland. I didn’t think so, but then again I can live on black beans and rice, and regularly test this theory when at home. Costa Rican food overall seemed healthier and not as full of additives or sugar as food in the States. I lost weight on this trip, and I ate like a horse.
Fact: Lizano sauce (a Costa Rican condiment) is like a very powerful hypnotic drug (not that I know – I swear). At first, I wasn’t sure I liked it. But my second meal, I liked it. By my third meal, I put it on everything. By the end of the trip, if I didn’t see Lizano sauce on the table when I sat down, I requested it before the waiter even asked for my drink order. Like the volcano, Lizano sauce hooked me good. I didn’t bring any back with me and now I’m about to order a 700 ml bottle which will cost me $15 once you factor in shipping. Oh, mighty corporate giant Knorr who now owns Lizano, PLEASE bring this stuff to the US.
I digress. We ate at SdC for breakfast and dinner two of the nights. We had appetizers at Lost Iguana on our Night of Debauchery. Lunches were at sodas (local eateries), and I liked those meals the best. We ate at Lava Rocks and Soda La Parada in La Fortuna. The natural juice shakes, con agua, were my favorite.
I want to give special mention to the café at the Hanging Bridges. We had lunch there one day, and it was one of the best meals of our trip. I had the fabulous Casado con pollo and my husband enjoyed a giant burger. If you’re up that way, make time for lunch. The people were so nice, the view of the volcano is fabulous, the price was right and the food good.
Do you know the way to San Jose?:
On Monday, post-Debauchery, I woke up with a raging headache. Are you surprised? The Gallo Pinto (doused in Lizano) at SdC helped somewhat, and we lounged around the bar at the back of the SdC property before checking out around 11:30 AM. We drove straight back to San Jose, promptly missed the “Zoo Ave” exit and enjoyed a little ride all the way to the international airport. Yea!
Eventually, we found our way back to the Orquideas Inn, had greasy nachos and a chicken club at the Marilyn Monroe bar, read our books and fell asleep around 8:30 PM. We had an early flight out of Pavas airport to Puerto Jimenez, and our wake-up was at 5:30 AM. Okay, the early wake-up is a cop out. I was still hungover.
Bright and early the next morning, our driver fought madly through San Jose traffic to get us to Pavas. I think Atlanta traffic is bad… San Jose’s traffic is worse than bad. It’s ungodly.
We arrive at Pavas and I wait nervously for our Nature Air flight. I’m a bit of a control freak, and flying isn’t really something I can control, seeing as I’m not a pilot and whatnot. I actually popped a pill for this flight, as I didn’t want to scream at the first bump we hit and scare the devil out of my fellow passengers. Plus, my husband was excited and really wanted to enjoy the flight.
I chill out. They call our flight. We head out to the plane. I bravely board the plane. In the video my husband took, I don’t really LOOK scared. My eyes look a bit odd, but that might have been the Xanax. Thanks Dr. Kirk!
Anyway, we obviously made it okay. It was pretty bumpy over the mountains that fringe San Jose (and this was confirmed by a resident of Puerto Jimenez on our plane), but once we got over the Pacific, it was incredibly smooth. We had a brief landed at Drake Bay, checked the runway for cows, and took off again. Within minutes, we reached Puerto Jimenez and I was in the vehicle bound for Bosque Del Cabo, 40 minutes away. I must say, I really enjoyed our little puddle jumper flight. Once we got over San Jose, it felt like floating and the views were gorgeous. I was happy to finally be in the Osa Peninsula, home to more monkeys than people.
I was really excited.
-
Kathyzhere
- Posts: 527
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:04 pm
- Location: Cape Cod & SW FL
WOW!! I can hardly wait to get home and read this 
Thanks sooo much for taking the time alw! Costa Rica is definately on my list and I've been listening to a guy from our pest control service rave abour CR for a few years now. He goes 2-3 times per year cuz he luvs the place that much. Kinda like all the STJ "fan"-atics
Can't wait to see all your photos too...yay!
Take care,
Kathy
Thanks sooo much for taking the time alw! Costa Rica is definately on my list and I've been listening to a guy from our pest control service rave abour CR for a few years now. He goes 2-3 times per year cuz he luvs the place that much. Kinda like all the STJ "fan"-atics
Can't wait to see all your photos too...yay!
Take care,
Kathy
