usvi-on-line
London Part 4 and Paris Part 1
London Part 4 and Paris Part 1
Finished this up before the last part of London Part 3 so this is out of sequence. Will finish and post that last piece on London soon.
Weds July 7 take the Eurostar from London to Paris. Cab to London St. Pancras station to save having to schlep luggage to the Underground and on and off of the tube. Hit traffic on way over so we didn’t have time to go to an Underground ticket booth to redeem unused money on the Oyster smart cards and get our 3 pound deposits back. Oh well – am told they do not expire – you never know, right? I least I was smart enough to change some of our pounds for Euros at a money exchange shop near the hotel the day before.
Had booked the Eurostar a couple months prior so had reserved seats. It is a very pleasant ride and the trip thru the chunnel is very quick and before you know it, you are speeding thru the French countryside. You were able to use either Pounds or Euros in the café car on the train.
After 2.5 hrs, arrive early afternoon at Gare de Nord train station in Paris. This is one of those big old European train stations like you see in the movies.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FU ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20U ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rl ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3K4 ... 1.JPG"></a>
Had studied the Paris Metro map and was finally getting the hang of it, so went down to the station to purchase a “carnet” or book of 10 tickets each. Tried to figure out the self serve electronic ticket machine but couldn’t so just waited in line.
Guys come up to you trying to "sell" you Metro tickets, but there is no way to determine if they havent been swiped thru yet. All the guidebooks also warn of pick pockets working the crowds in Paris so we are take appropriate precautions. There was a serious looking police presence here though too.
We get the tickets, go to pass through, and my wife’s suitcase gets stuck in the gate that closes behind you. A French guy passing by immediately helps me pry then open to let her thru so we are able to use our “merci beaucoup” right away.
So the first impression of the French people is good, but the first impressions of the Paris Metro is not too great. The smells and overall cleanliness, lack of A/C, and lets say diversity of the passengers doesn’t compare too well to what we experienced on the London Underground, but this particular ride actually wound up being the exception rather than the rule (just like there are differences on the various subway lines in NYC), and we got more comfortable with it as time went on.
I manage to get us to within 1 block of the hotel with only 1 transfer. Check into the Splendid Hotel Tour Eiffel. We have a “junior suite” on the 5th floor.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vh ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEC3b ... 1.JPG"></a>
These are on the point of this triangular shaped building, facing the Eiffel Tower, so we have spectacular views at all times of the day and night.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BJ ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD200 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lm ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20v ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O5 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20z ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gU ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD29- ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7U ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3Id ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Kn ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2-j ... 1.JPG"></a>
These "suites" also happen to have newly remodeled bathrooms and air conditioning, which the other rooms do not (not unusual in Paris).
We became VERY grateful for the AC as a heat wave was settling into Paris for our stay. We had above ave daytime temps of 28 to 33C. For some reason my wife couldn’t remember the double and add 30 rule of thumb so I was always interpreting the forecast, not that you can find a good local forecast on the TV.
The controls for the toilet also confused the girls – I thought they were elegant and intuitive.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0w ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3B2 ... 1.JPG"></a>
So we head out to the sidewalk café La Terrasse nearby for some late lunch – cheese on baguette, salad nicoise, and croquet Madame (sort of a grilled cheese with egg).
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jU ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD29n ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O_ ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3K- ... 1.JPG"></a>
We were trying our best to get off on the right foot and exchange the proper greetings etc. The VIs are good practice for France, because the French are even MORE about the proper ways of personal exchanges. In fact, the VIs are the minor leagues of protocol compared with France.
Which is fine, and I get that, and like the VIs, it is kind of nice and even respectful to interact in a more civilized fashion. However, it can be a little bit exhausting if youre not used to it.
Example: you want to ask a salesperson something. So you think: OK - I Have to say the following in French: good day, excuse me, do you speak English, if you please. They say yes. You say thank you, may I have X please?
We found that for the majority of the time, if you made the effort, the French were kind in return. In fact, this first day sitting down at this café for lunch, when we asked for the check by saying “Excusez-moi, L'addition, S'il vous plait?” and then laughed and asked “how was that?” the waitress also laughed and said very good and said she appreciated it, and that if people don’t make even a rudimentary effort at the basic greetings, etc., that she might just speak French to them and pretend she really cannot speak English.
In France, service people are actually paid a living wage and the customer is not always right. Understanding this cultural difference also makes you understand the reasons why the French have that reputation for rudeness. Turns out they do not tolerate what they perceive to be rudeness well at all.
So, forewarned is forearmed, so we practiced and used these phrases A LOT:
Bonjour (hello/good day = must be used upon entering shop, greeting waiter, etc.); Bonsoir (hello after 6pm/good evening); S'il vous plait (please/if you please = good to say after asking for anything); Au revoir (goodbye): Excusez-moi (excuse me = good to use before asking for anything); Est-ce que vous parlez anglais? (do you speak English?); L'addition (bill or check in restaurant); Merci (Thank you) and merci beaucoup (thank you very much) = both important to use after any interaction; Pardonnez (pardon me = if you bump into somebody; to get past someone in a crowded space).
That said, even using these "magic words", a few service people were still a bit grumpy. And one time, I was getting some pastries from one side of a shop, then the woman helping me turned away for something else for a few moments, then she turned back, and I pointed to some bread and cheese at the other side of the store saying something like “oh, can I also have something over there?” and she said very sharply “WhaT?!?” (with a hard T).
My bad. I forgot the excuse me/if you please thing AGAIN for the second part of our exchange. Who knew? I didn’t know that the original pleasantries had already expired. We really laughed about it later and used “WhaT?!?” on each other the rest of the trip whenever we could.
Back to the lunch. We order a carafe of the white wine (“House wine” was another phrase we used a lot) to go with the food. Without blinking an eye, they bring over 3 glasses and pour for the 17 yr old too. We got a kick out of this and said, hey why not join us in a toast and taste it. Well, she did and said and said “hey, this is good!”.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_8 ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8XM ... 2.JPG"></a>
Indeed it was, as was the bread and everything else. Turned out we could not and did not have a bad glass of wine the entire time, a glass was cheaper than Coke, even though we had no idea what we were ordering with the house wine or what we were buying in the local shop for 4 – 5 Euros (less than $6).
Their cheap wine was great. I suspect that maybe that these kind of everyday wines are not even exported. My daughter got about 2/3 thru her glass, “felt funny” with the buzz she was getting, so switched over to tap water. That’s another thing you have to specifically ask for (best to do it in French), or they’ll just bring bottled water. Oh – and getting ice is rare for your water or other drinks. Don’t know why that is.
Walked over to nearby Eiffel Tower, then with the help of the Rick Steves book, figured out where the bus was nearby that could get us over to the Louvre, which is open late this day. Same pass works for the Metro and the busses. This particular route of the 69 bus is pretty scenic and much better than taking the Metro. Makes me wish I had looked up the London bus system as an alternative to the Tube as their Osyter cards work above ground too. For some reason, inherently I am not a bus person.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z8 ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20V ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7W ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LD ... 1.JPG"></a>
The Louvre is massive with wonderful works of art, including the Mona Lisa and other famous pieces.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Tj ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8cZ ... 5.JPG"></a>
Behind glass and tough to get close to. Not a personal fav.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Zz ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8bF ... 4.JPG"></a>
The exquisite "Cupid Awakening Psyche" in the Italian Sculpture section of the Louvre which also includes works by Michelangelo.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ec ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LM ... 1.JPG"></a>
Winged Victory of Samothrace aka Nike the Goddess of Victory at the Louvre
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dR ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LN ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6x ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LR ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9g ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8b3 ... 9.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8L ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8fQ ... 1.jpg"></a>
Ice cream on the way out to the bus, then back to the hotel, the sun sets real late in Paris – around 10:30. The Tower spakles for 5 minutes at the top of each hour. A real treat every night from our room, as is returning to that blessed air conditioning.
Next up: coffee fail and shopping.
Weds July 7 take the Eurostar from London to Paris. Cab to London St. Pancras station to save having to schlep luggage to the Underground and on and off of the tube. Hit traffic on way over so we didn’t have time to go to an Underground ticket booth to redeem unused money on the Oyster smart cards and get our 3 pound deposits back. Oh well – am told they do not expire – you never know, right? I least I was smart enough to change some of our pounds for Euros at a money exchange shop near the hotel the day before.
Had booked the Eurostar a couple months prior so had reserved seats. It is a very pleasant ride and the trip thru the chunnel is very quick and before you know it, you are speeding thru the French countryside. You were able to use either Pounds or Euros in the café car on the train.
After 2.5 hrs, arrive early afternoon at Gare de Nord train station in Paris. This is one of those big old European train stations like you see in the movies.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FU ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20U ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rl ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3K4 ... 1.JPG"></a>
Had studied the Paris Metro map and was finally getting the hang of it, so went down to the station to purchase a “carnet” or book of 10 tickets each. Tried to figure out the self serve electronic ticket machine but couldn’t so just waited in line.
Guys come up to you trying to "sell" you Metro tickets, but there is no way to determine if they havent been swiped thru yet. All the guidebooks also warn of pick pockets working the crowds in Paris so we are take appropriate precautions. There was a serious looking police presence here though too.
We get the tickets, go to pass through, and my wife’s suitcase gets stuck in the gate that closes behind you. A French guy passing by immediately helps me pry then open to let her thru so we are able to use our “merci beaucoup” right away.
So the first impression of the French people is good, but the first impressions of the Paris Metro is not too great. The smells and overall cleanliness, lack of A/C, and lets say diversity of the passengers doesn’t compare too well to what we experienced on the London Underground, but this particular ride actually wound up being the exception rather than the rule (just like there are differences on the various subway lines in NYC), and we got more comfortable with it as time went on.
I manage to get us to within 1 block of the hotel with only 1 transfer. Check into the Splendid Hotel Tour Eiffel. We have a “junior suite” on the 5th floor.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vh ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEC3b ... 1.JPG"></a>
These are on the point of this triangular shaped building, facing the Eiffel Tower, so we have spectacular views at all times of the day and night.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BJ ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD200 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lm ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20v ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O5 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20z ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gU ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD29- ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7U ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3Id ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Kn ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2-j ... 1.JPG"></a>
These "suites" also happen to have newly remodeled bathrooms and air conditioning, which the other rooms do not (not unusual in Paris).
We became VERY grateful for the AC as a heat wave was settling into Paris for our stay. We had above ave daytime temps of 28 to 33C. For some reason my wife couldn’t remember the double and add 30 rule of thumb so I was always interpreting the forecast, not that you can find a good local forecast on the TV.
The controls for the toilet also confused the girls – I thought they were elegant and intuitive.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0w ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3B2 ... 1.JPG"></a>
So we head out to the sidewalk café La Terrasse nearby for some late lunch – cheese on baguette, salad nicoise, and croquet Madame (sort of a grilled cheese with egg).
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jU ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD29n ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O_ ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3K- ... 1.JPG"></a>
We were trying our best to get off on the right foot and exchange the proper greetings etc. The VIs are good practice for France, because the French are even MORE about the proper ways of personal exchanges. In fact, the VIs are the minor leagues of protocol compared with France.
Which is fine, and I get that, and like the VIs, it is kind of nice and even respectful to interact in a more civilized fashion. However, it can be a little bit exhausting if youre not used to it.
Example: you want to ask a salesperson something. So you think: OK - I Have to say the following in French: good day, excuse me, do you speak English, if you please. They say yes. You say thank you, may I have X please?
We found that for the majority of the time, if you made the effort, the French were kind in return. In fact, this first day sitting down at this café for lunch, when we asked for the check by saying “Excusez-moi, L'addition, S'il vous plait?” and then laughed and asked “how was that?” the waitress also laughed and said very good and said she appreciated it, and that if people don’t make even a rudimentary effort at the basic greetings, etc., that she might just speak French to them and pretend she really cannot speak English.
In France, service people are actually paid a living wage and the customer is not always right. Understanding this cultural difference also makes you understand the reasons why the French have that reputation for rudeness. Turns out they do not tolerate what they perceive to be rudeness well at all.
So, forewarned is forearmed, so we practiced and used these phrases A LOT:
Bonjour (hello/good day = must be used upon entering shop, greeting waiter, etc.); Bonsoir (hello after 6pm/good evening); S'il vous plait (please/if you please = good to say after asking for anything); Au revoir (goodbye): Excusez-moi (excuse me = good to use before asking for anything); Est-ce que vous parlez anglais? (do you speak English?); L'addition (bill or check in restaurant); Merci (Thank you) and merci beaucoup (thank you very much) = both important to use after any interaction; Pardonnez (pardon me = if you bump into somebody; to get past someone in a crowded space).
That said, even using these "magic words", a few service people were still a bit grumpy. And one time, I was getting some pastries from one side of a shop, then the woman helping me turned away for something else for a few moments, then she turned back, and I pointed to some bread and cheese at the other side of the store saying something like “oh, can I also have something over there?” and she said very sharply “WhaT?!?” (with a hard T).
My bad. I forgot the excuse me/if you please thing AGAIN for the second part of our exchange. Who knew? I didn’t know that the original pleasantries had already expired. We really laughed about it later and used “WhaT?!?” on each other the rest of the trip whenever we could.
Back to the lunch. We order a carafe of the white wine (“House wine” was another phrase we used a lot) to go with the food. Without blinking an eye, they bring over 3 glasses and pour for the 17 yr old too. We got a kick out of this and said, hey why not join us in a toast and taste it. Well, she did and said and said “hey, this is good!”.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_8 ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8XM ... 2.JPG"></a>
Indeed it was, as was the bread and everything else. Turned out we could not and did not have a bad glass of wine the entire time, a glass was cheaper than Coke, even though we had no idea what we were ordering with the house wine or what we were buying in the local shop for 4 – 5 Euros (less than $6).
Their cheap wine was great. I suspect that maybe that these kind of everyday wines are not even exported. My daughter got about 2/3 thru her glass, “felt funny” with the buzz she was getting, so switched over to tap water. That’s another thing you have to specifically ask for (best to do it in French), or they’ll just bring bottled water. Oh – and getting ice is rare for your water or other drinks. Don’t know why that is.
Walked over to nearby Eiffel Tower, then with the help of the Rick Steves book, figured out where the bus was nearby that could get us over to the Louvre, which is open late this day. Same pass works for the Metro and the busses. This particular route of the 69 bus is pretty scenic and much better than taking the Metro. Makes me wish I had looked up the London bus system as an alternative to the Tube as their Osyter cards work above ground too. For some reason, inherently I am not a bus person.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z8 ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD20V ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7W ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LD ... 1.JPG"></a>
The Louvre is massive with wonderful works of art, including the Mona Lisa and other famous pieces.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Tj ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8cZ ... 5.JPG"></a>
Behind glass and tough to get close to. Not a personal fav.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Zz ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8bF ... 4.JPG"></a>
The exquisite "Cupid Awakening Psyche" in the Italian Sculpture section of the Louvre which also includes works by Michelangelo.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ec ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LM ... 1.JPG"></a>
Winged Victory of Samothrace aka Nike the Goddess of Victory at the Louvre
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dR ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LN ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6x ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD3LR ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9g ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8b3 ... 9.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8L ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TE8fQ ... 1.jpg"></a>
Ice cream on the way out to the bus, then back to the hotel, the sun sets real late in Paris – around 10:30. The Tower spakles for 5 minutes at the top of each hour. A real treat every night from our room, as is returning to that blessed air conditioning.
Next up: coffee fail and shopping.
Last edited by jmq on Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
When I saw this part 4, I started looking for part 3.
Couldn’t find it, but found the reason. Looking forward to part 3.
I can only write the same as usual. Great, great pics and a fine trip report with good information.
Personally I have to admit that we too many times have met rude French people, we think mostly because we don’t speak French very well, and the French don’t like to speak German or English (we find the Spanish people much more helpful).
We have been in Paris twice, but it’s many years since, so perhaps people have changed. It seems as if you can get a smile from people, even though you are in the same situation about language.
Linne
Couldn’t find it, but found the reason. Looking forward to part 3.
I can only write the same as usual. Great, great pics and a fine trip report with good information.
Personally I have to admit that we too many times have met rude French people, we think mostly because we don’t speak French very well, and the French don’t like to speak German or English (we find the Spanish people much more helpful).
We have been in Paris twice, but it’s many years since, so perhaps people have changed. It seems as if you can get a smile from people, even though you are in the same situation about language.
Linne
-
SOonthebeach
- Posts: 1707
- Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:01 am
- Location: Texas
Thank you jmq! It's been too long since we were in Paris (1999) and I loved seeing the pics. We had the same experience- the French were usually very nice as long as we tried with French, which we always did- and all of those same phrases! Love your pics. What a fantastic view you had from your room. Thanks for sharing!
