Trip Report- 11 Days in Heaven (the whole thing)

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Nancy_B
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Trip Report- 11 Days in Heaven (the whole thing)

Post by Nancy_B »

Better late then never they say! I've been home for over a month and it feels like I haven't been there in forever. It's amazing how work sucks the life out of you immediately. We have been super busy finishing up our construction at our beach house (our bedroom likes just like a villa in St. John now - yeah!). I'll post photos of those in another thread as soon as my husband posts them on facebook.

Background on this trip - this was our 16th or 17th trip to St. John. The first week was with our best friends who now live in California so this is a great place for us to meet up. Both couples were married in St. John so we all 'get' the island. We stayed in Coral Bay the first week - in amazing Reef Madness (great home, Randy) and then moved to Estate Lindholm near Cruz Bay after our friends left.

Day 1 - Saturday, January 30th
Super smooth travel day. Direct flight out of Philly. The exit row ended up empty in front of us so we moved up for extra leg room. We landed early and grabbed a cab to Charlotte Amalie for 1:15 ferry (carry on only so no wait). We directed a single traveler to take the same ferry with us - she was hoping to get the 2 p.m. Red Hook but we told her to follow us. She was a very nice girl. She was down visiting friends who live on island. They were having a memorial service for her friends husband who died tragically on island a year ago.

We were on our wonderful St. John at 2 p.m. - wow, love that feeling when you first catch site of Cruz Bay. It really is like coming home for me. Ron went to St. John Car Rental while I picked up our package and then some Voodoo Coffee for the week from St. John Spice and quickly wrote in the sand for the 4M. We met at the Beach Bar for lunch and a ice cold beverage.

Our villa rep called me and we made arrangements to meet her at the intersection of 104 towards centerline. We made great time out to Seagrape Hill and fabulous Reef Madness. Love it! It's a gorgeous villa - every detail is perfect. Here's the view:

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We quickly surveyed the villa and then headed out for cold beer and milk for our coffee. Dropped it off, iced it up and then headed back to town to meet our friends who were on the 5 p.m. ferry. Just in time! We had cold beers for them. So happy to see them!

We headed over to the Beach Bar for a couple of cold ones and our friends had an appetizer (I'm sure it was Tuna Down Now as that's everyone's favorite).

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Then, out to Coral Bay so they could see our gorgeous villa. We flipped a coin for the bedroom and they picked the upstairs one.

Dinner that night was at Aqua Bistro. We all enjoyed our meal but I don't remember what we had. After dinner, we headed over to Island Blues to see a guy named John. He was very good. We had a lot of fun and we were out until midnight - this was craziness for us! We are always in bed early - who are these people? Don't worry, we'll get back into our normal groove in a day or two.

Day 2 Sunday, February 1
Wow, hung over the first day! Not a good sign but the good news is this was the only day that we were.

We assign each day to a person and it's their responsibility to choose the activities for the day. Today is our friend, Dave's day. So, in all reality, I have to admit, they are all really my days - I always chime in and put my two cents in but I just let them think it's theirs :) We start the day with coffee and bananaquit feeding at the villa.

It's Sunday so we head to Miss Lucy's for Brunch. No better way to start a day. Great food, drinks, jazz and a gorgeous view. Plus, we love the short trip from Coral Bay v. Cruz Bay. Bonus! Beach today is Salt Pond. This is a first for us - we've never spent the day here - only walked by on our way to Ram Head. At the top of the hill, we buy some cool kalabash artwork from a local named Italanthony (they are now hanging in our beach house). It's a beautiful day and we have a great beach day. We meet a really nice couple who own a villa in Johnson Bay and just arrived for a month - nice!

After the beach, we head to Skinny's for a burger. It's Super Bowl Sunday so we ask Moe about a table. Many of them are already reserved. We give a donation to KATS (the sailing club for kids on St. John) and yes, we've scored a great table. We eat our burgers and then head home for showers. Back to Skinny's for a great game - go Steelers (well, gotta cheer for them since they're from PA too). Late night for us - we're home at midnight.

Monday, February 2nd
Today is my husband Ron's day. My friend, Suz and I start the day with a run. We walk down Seagrape hill and the run to the left past Skinny's til a hill starts and then turn around and run thru town to Sweet Plaintains and back to Seagrape hill. We begin the long walk up - wow, what a challenge but so good when it's done.

Lunch today is at Banana Deck - love the greek salad with grilled chicken. We see Dimitrius who works there and he remembers us. I don't know why but we love to be remembered. It makes us feel good.

The surf is high today so we head to Maho. We have a great day on the beach. Back to Reef Madness for happy hour and dinner is Sweet Plaintains. This is our first visit. We love it! So much so that we book a return reservation for Friday night. Our waitress is super sweet and Prince is a great bartender. Dinner was pricey for us because we had cocktails, apps, dinner, good wine and dessert. Oh, and desert rum - yum! We sat outside and it was breezy but we loved it. Home to bed after a great day!

Tuesday, February 3
Today is Suz's day. We have all started feeling sick the night before - sore throat, cold, etc. But, we are on vacation and we rally thru it. Rum works well to fight the common cold.

We decide to do a hike and choose the Johnny Horn trail since the trail head is right at the base of Seagrape Hill next to the Moravian Church. Well, we really don't research well and I really should have paid attention to Augie's trip report apparently so we actually never make it to any beach :(.

Here we are on the trail:

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At this point, we're on a point of the trail that is off the main trail. How do we know this? Well, my friend, Dave uses his iPhone to google earth us. Very cool! We get back on the main trail but then miss the path to Brown Bay. Then, we find it and it's totally overgrown so we bag it. It was great exercise and we saw some great views but missed the conch shells. Next time!

Lunch is at the Tourist Trap. It's a very cool place and we are there with all locals. Beach is Miss Vie's. Our friends had never been. It's a perfect beach day:

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We have beer with us and decide to spend happy hour on the beach after we have a late afternoon snack from Miss Vies (right before she closes). Great happy hour spot!

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Dinner that night is at Shipwreck. We have a great waitress (she's the one who sold us a block from the pool on Super Bowl night) and a wonderful meal. After dinner, we head home - another great day!

Wednesday, February 4th
My day! Boat day! Boat days are always the best days!

We are going out with Josh from Lion in da Sun. We were out with him twice last year and he's a great guy!

We're up early, quick breakfast at Reef Madness and head to the National Park Dock in Cruz Bay for an 8:30 a.m. departure.

First stop is Rendevous Bay next to Ditleff to snorkel and see starfish. I'm not much of a snorkeler (I've had claustrophobia issues in the past) but I'm a bit better now. Give me a noodle and my confidence is boosted. Water is a bit cold but we get used to it quickly. I'm wearing a rash guard so that helps. It was very cool seeing the starfish in the water!

There are homes being built on Ditleff finally. It's so sad. Our wedding was right above Ditleff in 2001 and we remember the pristine beauty of it - totally undisturbed. Oh well, such is the way of the island.

We head to Jost to check in. I like to stop in Corsairs and visit my brother's license plate (he died two years ago and I put his Harley plate there last Feb) I get there first and it's all closed up. I pop around the corner to see if the bathroom is open but it's lock. The owner, Vinnie (I think it's Vinnie not Vince) arrives and he is pretty gruff. Apparently, business is totally off for him. He opens up and makes us painkillers. We try to keep the mood light but he complains about everything. What a bummer! I really like him and hope things pick up for him soon.

After Corsairs, we head to the Bubbly Pool. It's working. Well, it's working about every 6th wake. We still have a great time. Our friends have never seen it work so we were happy that it was working at all.

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Lunch is at Taboo and then we head to Sandy Spit for a quick swim ashore (noodle assisted for me). Next stop is White Bay and Ivan's. I'm feeling a bit tipsy so I relax on the beach for about 20 minutes. We then post notes to our friends at home via facebook:

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Next stop is Smuggler's Cove. This is another first for us! We have an amazing drink called a Smuggler's Punch and sit on the beach and enjoy the end of the day. The drink is made with cashews or peanuts and there were tons in the drink so we joked that it was like a drink and a snack in one.

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We head home, have drinks at the Beach Bar. We see mrscaptainjay briefly. They were on a boat that day too but around St. John so we didn't cross paths.

Dinner is at Rhumblines. We shared a pu pu platter and then we had our entrees. This is one of our favorite restaurants on island and it didn't disappoint.

Here I am pondering the day (or, I had too much to drink):

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Thursday, February 5
Dave's day again. Suz and I repeat our run from earlier in the week. It actually seems a bit easier. While we run, the guys breakfast at the Donkey Diner and enjoy it. Beach is Gibney today. This is our favorite beach:

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Ron levitating a beer:
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After the beach, we headed to the Beach Bar for happy hour (no shower) and then dinner at Cafe Roma. We were very happy that it was just as good as it had been with the previous owner. We had great food, good wine and fun times. Ron is a trooper as we all fell asleep on the ride home to Reef Madness.

Friday, February 6th
Beach today was Trunk Bay after lunch at the Banana Deck. Surf was still rough so I stayed out of the water. We headed back to Reef Madness to enjoy happy hour on the deck and dinner at Sweet Plaintains again.

I had the pork tonight (the one that's on the menu and it was wonderful!). We sat outside again. It was less breezy - a beautiful night!

Saturday, February 7th
Today, our friends go home and we leave Reef Madness. Sad day! Good news is Estate Lindholm calls and our room is ready so we can bring our stash from Reef to there (beer,etc.).

We drop our friends in town and check in. It's a beautiful place. Very nice gardens and the hosts are super friendly.

We meet up with our friends for lunch at the Beach Bar. We say good bye to them as they board the 1:15 CA ferry. Since they live so far away, it's super sad since we're not sure when we'll see them again.

Ron and I head to Gibney for our beach day. The surf is super high so we have to walk all the way to the left to find some beach.

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Happy hour is at the Beach Bar. We see CaptainJay and then Deb and their friends join us. We part ways and head to Cafe Roma for dinner - it was so good the other night that we want a repeat. It doesn't disappoint!

Sunday, Feb 8th
We hike up Peace Hill. What great views!
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It's Sunday so we head to Miss Lucy's next for brunch (we are creatures of habit).

The weather is partly cloudy and the surf is still high. We head to Francis Bay and it's crowded! We enjoy an hour and a half of sun and then the rain sets in. So, we head home and shower and then to the Beach Bar for the Forum gathering. It's pouring so we don't stand on the beach and we never see any forumites but we still have a good time. We run into a guy from home who we know who owns Ristaba and chat it up with him. He just arrived for 10 days and we're happy to see him.

Dinner that night is La Tapa. We sit inside to avoid the rain (the pouring really never let up). We both enjoy our meal. Our server is the one we always seem to get. He is really the only negative to me about this place. He always seems annoyed and not super friendly. Guess you have to take the good with the bad.

We head home and our neighbor is apparently dying. The walls of Estate Lindholm are super thin and we hear him hacking up lung all night long. On top of that, every time he does, he flushes the toilet. Doesn't he know that in the land of sea and sun, we don't flush for number one (or hacking a lugey)?

Monday, February 9th
Ron and I hike the Margaret Hill hike today. I love this hike! I know, I'm crazy! It's super hard but it's a great workout and the views are amazing (sorry no photos).

We meet a guy who was recently laid off and is living at his sister's place in grand bay for a month or so. Lucky guy! We also meet a women who is living there for the women. Lucky girl! We want to be them! Well, not laid off but living in St. John for the winter.

We hike for about an hour and 45 minutes. We quickly shower and reward ourselves with lunch at the Banana Deck.

Beach is Cinnamon Bay today. It's a gorgeous day. We relax all afternoon and don't leave until 6 p.m. What a great day!

Dinner is at the new place in the Marketplace - La Plancha. Our meals our wonderful and the owners are 3 really nice guys. We wish them the best!

Tuesday, Feb 10th
Last full day on island!

Beach is Maho but the weather is not cooperating so we head to Skinny's. By time we're there it's pouring. What a bummer for our last day. No worries! We have great burgers and a drink. Since it's raining, we decide to head to the Beach Bar. We hang out with Boo for a while and then go to Cafe Roma for dinner AGAIN. What can I say, we like it :)

Wednesday, Feb 11th.
Walk of Woe day. We pack up and check out of Estate Lindholm. The owner shares a great story with us about how the road out to the northshore beaches was originally supposed to cut in to their property. However, the day they came to cut the road, her grandmother (I think) offered the workers lemonade and a sandwich and asked them to move it over about 15 feet and they did! Wow, if only that would work today. When they built the new overlook a couple of years ago, they realized it but they are now grandfathered in since it's over 40 years ago.

We did our final shopping in Mongoose, returned the car and had lunch at the Beach Bar. Here's my last bushwacker:
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and my last view from the ferry dock:
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We had another amazing vacation. Overall, the weather was pretty darn good (only 2.5 days of rain). It's a bit cooler this time of year but we still love it. We loved Reef Madness and really enjoyed staying in Coral Bay. It's so nice to drive down the hill and be right at Skinny's or the other great restaurant, shops and bars in Coral Bay. We will stay there again but not our May trip. We can't wait to return in less then 2 months :)
NancyB
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loria
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Post by loria »

great report! thanks!
< leaving on the 22nd of march...but too lame to figure out the ticker thing again!>
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Bigcheeze
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Post by Bigcheeze »

LOVED it and got some new ideas.

TY for taking the timeand for the pics!!

We soon come...7th year in a row

Dave :D
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byado18
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Location: Central Illinois

Post by byado18 »

Great report! Sounds like it was a great trip!
Sun4MySoul
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Location: NC

Post by Sun4MySoul »

Thanks for taking us along on your Adventure! And for reminding me that I should look into booking Josh for my May trip.

You're right...better late than never! :D

See you in May!
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chrisn
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Post by chrisn »

Thanks for sharing your trip with us. Glad to hear Cafe Roma is still yummy. Can't wait for June to see for myself!!!
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msgcolleen
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Location: Allen, Texas

Post by msgcolleen »

Yee~Haw!Fabulous report! Reef Madness is at the top of my list for Oct.!
Cool Bushwacker too~
Thanx :wink:
I've got 2 tickets to paradise~Pack your bags we'll leave tonight!

[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
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RickG
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Location: Coral Bay, St. John

Post by RickG »

We read your trip report with the Blackberry on the balcony at the Quiet Mon last night. Thanks for writing!

Cheers, RickG
S/V Echoes - Coral Bay - St. John, VI
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Nancy_B
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Location: Philadelphia, PA

Post by Nancy_B »

RickG, you win for best place to read a TR about St. John - I'm jealous! I'm sure you're having an amazing time.

Sun, let us know if you need 2 more for your trip with Josh as we're solo our second week in May (16-23). Look forward to seeing you at the Beach Bar.

Bigcheeze, have an amazing vacation. Savor every moment!

Thanks to all for your posts.
NancyB
Agent99
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Location: Cape Ann MA

Post by Agent99 »

Thanks Nancy!! Even tho the sun is shining and it is a balmy 35 degrees here your report warmed me up!!
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Sunny
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Post by Sunny »

Great report - Thanks for sharing!
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liamsaunt
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Post by liamsaunt »

Thanks for a great report! It brightened up my Monday morning.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
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lprof
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Post by lprof »

:) Thanks...enjoyed following the fun...
and the beach house bedroom looks great. Enjoy!
... no longer a stranger to paradise
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mcdomzal
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Post by mcdomzal »

Great report! Read it while I ate breakfast, so much better than the depressing news in the paper! Thanks.
MCDomzal
bevm
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Location: Doylestown, Pa.

Post by bevm »

Glad you had a great trip in spite of the few days of rain. Love the pics. from Reef Madness. I never get tired of looking at Coral Bay.
Last edited by bevm on Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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