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Trip Report - Final Chapter
Trip Report - Final Chapter
Our last couple of days in Paradise.
12/5/06, Day 6….I think….who cares? My apologies for any bad grammar or mis-spellings, I was tired when I wrote this.....
Today was our last full day with the jeep, so we of course wanted to take full advantage. We were up early as normal, but didn’t waste a lot of time lazing around the condo. I believe the cooler was packed, and snorkel gear was ready and in the jeep by 8am or so.
My mission today was to snorkel Waterlemon. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read that Waterlemon is (THE) place to go for great snorkeling. The sun was shining bright as we made our way along the epic north shore drive. All those look out areas never get old. I’m guessing the drive from Cruz Bay out to Waterlemon is around 20-25 minutes. We parked in the parking lot for the ruins….which I believe are the Annaberg ruins? Anyway, you pick up the path close to the parking lot, and start hiking in along the water. The path is very flat, and an easy hike. There are great views along the way, and the path itself weaves in & out of overhanging trees. When you first start out, it appears as if your destination is so far away. I was thinking “Oh my God, this is going to take us forever.”
Well, within 15 minutes, we were at a good spot to put in for snorkeling.
There were of course expectations of the famous starfish we read & heard about, but we may have walked too far, and missed the starfish area. The swim out to the caye was pretty easy, maybe 100 yards or so. Conditions were much calmer than it had been most of the week, hence why we waited until our last day to hit this place. There was a lot to see on the way over to the island, but we did come across a couple rays, and one turtle. Once you get out to the island, there definitely is a current, but it didn’t seem too bad to us. Unfortunately, due to the week of windy northern swells, it was a bit cloudy out there.
It was easy to see why everyone loves this place, the coral was very nice, both hard & soft. You could see fish hiding below a lot of the soft corals as they flowed gently in the currents. There is a significant drop off around the island, and I was so wishing that the visibility was a little better. My guess is that we needed a day or two longer for the water to become perfectly clear again. No problem….we always try and make the best of it. As we made our way all the way around the island, we saw a few more rays, and another turtle just doing their thing. Again, you could see many of the usual reef fish, but they were really clinging towards the bottom, and hiding around the many soft corals. After about an hour or so, we headed back in to pack up and try another spot. I can definitely see us trying this spot on another visit someday.
We hiked back to the jeep, and drove onward to our next piece of paradise. It wasn’t long before we rolled into the parking lot at Francis beach. Bob & Sharon had recommended this beach due to a great experience. We were hungry after our first snorkel & hike, so we sat in the jeep in the shade, and chowed down on some turkey sandwiches we had brought with us. The parking lot was pretty full, at least a dozen vehicles, and 3 or 4 more showed while we were having lunch.
The beach is right there as soon as you leave the dirt parking lot….super easy. As we walked onto the beach, the silly grins began to grow. This a stunning beach. You have all heard this a million times on the forum, but just how many shades of turquoise is there anyway? The sand was again as soft as powder, and just too gorgeous for words. As we walk along the beach, the feeling of pure bliss just hits you. Man I love this island!! Bob & Sharon had suggested snorkeling along the right side of the beach, so that is the direction we walked. After walking about 100 yards or so, the beach becomes a little gravelly, so we stopped there, and nestled our stuff under a few overhanging trees in the shade. You all know what happens next….in the water with snorkel gear ready to roll.
Down to the right where there is a rocky shoreline, the Pelicans were crashing into the water one after the other. Where Pelicans dive, there are fish….nuff said. The water is relatively shallow, and the first part of the snorkel we didn’t see much of anything. Eventually, we came upon a school of silversides that was gigantic. It was just a thick cloud of tiny silver fish, so thick that you couldn’t see out of them at times. As you glide into the cloud of baitfish, the sun reflects off each and everyone of them, and the effects are magical as the cloud swarms around you. Of course where there are baitfish, there are bigger fish, MUCH bigger fish. It wasn’t long before we were surrounded by a school of large Tarpon. My guess is that there were at least 8-10 of them, all of them at least 4-5 feet in length. Not too many of these Tarpon miss a meal, as some were as big around as a grown man….it was incredible to swim with these big bruisers. You could always tell when a Tarpon was coming close, as the cloud of silversides would just split apart trying to get out of the way. Once you saw the cloud of baitfish open up, along would come some sort of bigger fish through them.
The Pelicans were another treat. These things were not shy at all, and several times, would crash into the water within 5 feet of you, scooping up the tiny silversides by the hundreds. Well, the Pelicans crashing into the baitfish started a chain reaction. As soon as they’d splash down, the big Tarpon would then slash through eating the injured bait left behind. Tracie & I just floated there in complete awe. If you dove below the surface into the cloud of fish, many times the Tarpon would swim right towards you, veering away when they finally came face to face with you, gliding by within 3 feet. It gives me chills just typing this, as it was easily one of the most exciting snorkels of my life. Just as my heart was calming down, and I was getting used to the Tarpon, it got even better. I see the cloud of baitfish split apart, so I figured it’s just another Tarpon coming on through….WRONG….shark!! This was no Nurse shark either, it was some sort of reef shark. If I had to guess, I believe it was a Lemon shark. It was a little better than 5 feet in length, and just about made me swallow my entire snorkel as it glided on by me. Just like the Tarpon, it came right at me, and once it saw me, it veered off, and went on it’s merry way. I could of easily reached out and touched it….this thing was close!! As startled as I was, that shark wanted nothing to do with me, and I knew it. All that being said, I guarantee it will literally stop your pulse for a second or two. Unfortunately, Tracie missed it, but that of been a good thing. I ended up seeing this guy a couple more times, as he was just cruising along, and staying where the food was. I’m pretty sure I’m having fun now!! After a long while, we started the swim back to the beach. This snorkel must have been at least an hour and a half or more….absolutely awesome, or being from Boston, should I say it was “Wicked Awesome Man!”
Francis is such a beautiful beach, and we hung out for a while just basking in the glory of what we had just experienced. Although there is incredible beauty above the surface of STJ, what lies below the surface is easily as impressive. We picked up our pile of junk, and started walking back towards the jeep. I see something coming out of the bushes. It turns out to be a 3 foot iguana, with the brightest hue of green I’ve ever seen. It was the biggest I’d seen on the island yet, and his markings & color were outstanding. I got a pretty good picture of this dude, (see my picture link). There was actually an even bigger iguana in the bushes right next to the one on the beach, but he was too shy to come out for a clean snapshot. He did stick his head out, but I missed the photo opp.
A little ways closer to the jeep, I see someone waving at us, and as we got closer, I realized it was Bill & Sandie. Is it me, or do you seem to run into someone you’ve met already all over this tiny island??? Everywhere we went, someone was saying hello. We chatted with Bill & Sandie for a few minutes, told them about the snorkeling, and then headed back to the jeep. Off we drove to yet one more beach for the day.
The next stop was Gibney beach. You park right near an iron gate, and walk down a steep driveway of sorts. It’s steep, but not a far walk at all. The fabulous beaches never end it seems, as Gibney was just magnificent. We had the entire beach to ourselves, which was a perfect way to cap off an already great day. We walked down the beach, and spread our neet sheet under some overhanging palms. Gibney is beyond tranquil. I really can’t imagine being anymore content than I am, as we laid back, and just took it all in. After about 20 minutes or so, a couple folks showed up in their dinghys, and we had to share our little slice of paradise. Who knows what would of happened had they not shown up!!
I took several pictures here, and plan to have a few framed as they came out really nice. No snorkeling this time, as we both were running out of gas….a little.
Back at Gallows after a very fulfilling day, we showered up, and got ready to meet the clan for happy hour. When we arrived at the Beach Bar, Bill & Sandie and Bob & Sharon wre already there waiting for us. Of course we had to get “primed” for dinner, and the cocktails tasted like heaven after the day we had. As usual, great conversation & many laughs with our new friends….always a wonderful time. After too many cocktails (or maybe not enough), we decided on the Balcony for dinner after Bill had told us that it was really good.
The Balcony is just a stones throw from the Beach Bar, and up some stairs (hence the name.) As usual, we were seated within minutes without a reservation. Fatigue was setting in, and we were both exhausted from our active day. We sat back in our chairs, sipped our cocktails, and just reveled in each others company. I can’t think of anything better than being with the love of my life, sipping cocktails in paradise….once again, life is grand!! The Balcony was outstanding. Our appetizer was a lobster crepe that was out of this world. The crepes were stuffed with lots of lobster meat, and topped with a sauce that was to die for. I believe I detected a hint of horseradish in the sauce, but whatever was in there, we savored every morsel. Things that make you go “Mmmm.” For our entrees, we both went with the Chilean Sea Bass. Another winner. These were hardly small pieces of fish, they were more like huge chunks. It came out with another delicious sauce, along with grilled asparagus, all of it was fabulous. We actually considered a few drinks after dinner, but both agreed we were too tired, so we hoofed back up to Gallows, and called it a night. Hello bed….good night world.
12/6/06 – Day Whatever….it just doesn’t matter anymore!!
You know you are relaxed when you haven’t known what day it is for a while, and don’t have a clue what time it is. It’s a wonderful feeling. All I knew is that this was our last full day on STJ, and we had to return the jeep by noon (or so). Bill & I had made plans to do a two tank dive out of Caneel today. I met he & Sandie at Caneel sometime around 8:30. The boat was little late picking us up from the Caneel dock, but we just hung out on the beach so there was absolutely no suffering. My apologies, but the name of the dive outfit escapes my brain. Finally they arrived, and we were on our way. There was around 15 people aboard, and maybe 3 dive guides. Everyone was really nice. They did a quick briefing of the dive, and within 15-20 minutes, we were suited up and jumping in. They split us into groups, and our group consisted of myself, Bill, two others and the dive master/guide. For some reason, I was having a really tough time equalizing, and just could clear the pressure from my right ear. Every time I’d attempt to descend, it got really painful. I felt like such a schmuck, as the rest of my group were waiting patiently for me at the bottom in about 50 feet or so. Bottom time is short enough already, let alone waiting for my sorry ass. Finally after many attempts, I cleared my right side, and I was down. The first reef was quite nice, with great coral formations. There was however a strong current here, and we all pulled our way along the sandy bottom to get to the front of the reef. The current also had things stirred up a bit, and visibility was okay, but not great. We all glided around the reef with ease, and I was able to enjoy the dive after a rocky start. Our bottom time was not long, maybe 25-30 minutes max.
We surfaced without any issues, and were off to our second dive site. After our allotted surface interval, it was back into our gear for dive #2. This dive was much smoother, and I was able to equalize in just a couple minutes. I believe the depth here was similar, about 50+ feet. This was a completely different dive, as the visibility was phenomenal. I’ve seen some gorgeous reefs in Grand Cayman, but this reef was as beautiful as any I have ever seen. The coral was amazingly healthy, and had very intense colors. There were some purple tube corals that extended 5-7 feet from the bottom, and couldn’t be more brilliant. You name it, and that color existed here. Not only were the colors electric, but the place was teaming with fish life as well. One of the more impressive sightings was a big fat Cubera Snapper, which had go 25-30 lbs. Bill had also pointed out a juvenile fish of some kind that was pretty rare, but he’ll have to chime in with the name of it. We also saw several lobsters, many of which were huge. I would of loved to see them steaming on my plate, with a bowl of drawn butter!! I was so relaxed on this dive, allowing us a longer dive time, of about 50 minutes. After surfacing, we were quickly on our way back to the dock at Caneel. It was a great dive, thank you again Bill for the invite.
Once back at Caneel, I had to rush on out of there, and get the jeep back to STJ car rental. Made it back with about a minute to spare. I of course wanted to avoid extra charges, and they had already extended my return time by an hour. The entire experience with STJ car rental was good, and I would use them again with out and hesitation. Tracie was waiting for me at the Beach Bar across the street, and we sat and enjoyed a few cold ones, and ate lunch. Again, just a burger for me, and it was very good & cheap. Tracie had been shopping all morning while I was diving. She bought a bunch of small knick knacks like t-shirts, calendars, etc. I was a little tired, so we went back to Gallows and sacked out for a short afternoon nap…..I need more of these in my normal everyday life!!
Tracie had booked us for a parasail in the afternoon, so we hoofed it down to the National Park dock to meet the boat. They were late (big surprise), but eventually they showed up, and once again, we were the only ones on the boat. We motored out into the bay between STT & STJ. Climbed up onto the deck with our harnesses on, got strapped in, and up we flew. Most of you know how spectacular the views are no matter where you are on STJ. Well, when you are 400+ feet in the air, floating over the water, the views are breath taking. You would be amazed how quiet it is up there. The two of us just sat back as I clicked away with the camera. I didn’t dare bring our good camera, so hopefully the disposable underwater camera shots come out okay. The ride was too short as it always seems. It lasted maybe 15 minutes at the most. You’d think the guy would let us fly longer due to being the only ones on the boat, but he was probably late for his next customer. What a great business….charge $50, $60, or $70 bucks per head, and the entire things lasts about ½ an hour. Those guys must make a killing.
Back up the hill we went to Gallows, to hang around the pool until sunset. We have been on the run all week, so anytime we just did nothing was very relaxing. The sun was hot in the afternoon, and every 10-15 minutes, I was back wallowing in the pool. Before long the sun had began to go down, so we mixed up a few cocktails, and enjoyed the show. Tonight’s sunset was the best of the week, lighting up the clouds & sky with every color in the spectrum. I captured many great shots of this one.
Bill & Sandie had invited us over to their villa for dinner along with Bob & Sharon. So we showered up, and met Sharon & Bob out front, and rode in their jeep over to Bill’s villa. This place was grand to say the least. Between the stonework, decks, bathrooms, & views, we were blown away. I go into detail, as I’m sure Bill will include a better description in his report. But know that this place was incredible. It was no surprise that we had great conversation & many laughs. Sandie’s cooking did not disappoint, as I helped myself to seconds of a pork roast with asparagus. Great job Sandie!! Bill turned me on to one of the sauces he bought from Ruth at St John Spice. It had a citrus flair, with a bit of a hot bite. Unusual but very tasty. Of course I can’t remember the name of the stuff, but you can bet I’ll be asking Bill at some point so I can order a bottle from Ruth. We had a great time while we all shared our pictures on the TV. I honestly can’t say enough about the hospitality of Bill & Sandie. They have to be some of the kindest, most welcoming people we have ever met. We will not soon forget our time together. It was getting late, and Bill’s painkillers were taking their toll, so we had our hugs, and said our good byes.
12/7/06 – Day to do our walk of woe.
We had a late flight out of STT, which allowed us some precious last hours by the pool. The sun was bright & hot, and per usual, I was in & out of the pool every few minutes to cool off. Although we both missed our son Tyler very much, it was going to extremely hard to leave such a magical place today. We milked our last bit of time to the last minute before having to shower up and get ready to go home. We had packed early when we got up, so after showering, we were all set with out any thing to stress about. Bob & Sharon were out snorkeling in front of Gallows, but we saw them on the way out, and waved good bye…..you guys owe us a hug!!
That last walk out to the ferry is indeed a sad one. Again, we were so excited to get home and see the boy, but leaving this perfect paradise was tough. Between the ferry, flights, and shuttles, everything went quite smooth, and we were landing back in Boston around 11:30 that night. I was still in shorts, and as I walked out of the terminal into wind chills in the low teens, reality hit me like a brick.
Tracie & I have been lucky enough to experience many different island in the Caribbean, but nothing was as special as St John. Of course our renewing of our vows helps, but even with out doing that, this place captured our hearts forever. There is no doubt we will be back someday soon, if not next year, 2008 is looking good. I hope my long winded stories did not put any of you asleep, and until next time…. To all a good night.
-Scott
12/5/06, Day 6….I think….who cares? My apologies for any bad grammar or mis-spellings, I was tired when I wrote this.....
Today was our last full day with the jeep, so we of course wanted to take full advantage. We were up early as normal, but didn’t waste a lot of time lazing around the condo. I believe the cooler was packed, and snorkel gear was ready and in the jeep by 8am or so.
My mission today was to snorkel Waterlemon. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read that Waterlemon is (THE) place to go for great snorkeling. The sun was shining bright as we made our way along the epic north shore drive. All those look out areas never get old. I’m guessing the drive from Cruz Bay out to Waterlemon is around 20-25 minutes. We parked in the parking lot for the ruins….which I believe are the Annaberg ruins? Anyway, you pick up the path close to the parking lot, and start hiking in along the water. The path is very flat, and an easy hike. There are great views along the way, and the path itself weaves in & out of overhanging trees. When you first start out, it appears as if your destination is so far away. I was thinking “Oh my God, this is going to take us forever.”
Well, within 15 minutes, we were at a good spot to put in for snorkeling.
There were of course expectations of the famous starfish we read & heard about, but we may have walked too far, and missed the starfish area. The swim out to the caye was pretty easy, maybe 100 yards or so. Conditions were much calmer than it had been most of the week, hence why we waited until our last day to hit this place. There was a lot to see on the way over to the island, but we did come across a couple rays, and one turtle. Once you get out to the island, there definitely is a current, but it didn’t seem too bad to us. Unfortunately, due to the week of windy northern swells, it was a bit cloudy out there.
It was easy to see why everyone loves this place, the coral was very nice, both hard & soft. You could see fish hiding below a lot of the soft corals as they flowed gently in the currents. There is a significant drop off around the island, and I was so wishing that the visibility was a little better. My guess is that we needed a day or two longer for the water to become perfectly clear again. No problem….we always try and make the best of it. As we made our way all the way around the island, we saw a few more rays, and another turtle just doing their thing. Again, you could see many of the usual reef fish, but they were really clinging towards the bottom, and hiding around the many soft corals. After about an hour or so, we headed back in to pack up and try another spot. I can definitely see us trying this spot on another visit someday.
We hiked back to the jeep, and drove onward to our next piece of paradise. It wasn’t long before we rolled into the parking lot at Francis beach. Bob & Sharon had recommended this beach due to a great experience. We were hungry after our first snorkel & hike, so we sat in the jeep in the shade, and chowed down on some turkey sandwiches we had brought with us. The parking lot was pretty full, at least a dozen vehicles, and 3 or 4 more showed while we were having lunch.
The beach is right there as soon as you leave the dirt parking lot….super easy. As we walked onto the beach, the silly grins began to grow. This a stunning beach. You have all heard this a million times on the forum, but just how many shades of turquoise is there anyway? The sand was again as soft as powder, and just too gorgeous for words. As we walk along the beach, the feeling of pure bliss just hits you. Man I love this island!! Bob & Sharon had suggested snorkeling along the right side of the beach, so that is the direction we walked. After walking about 100 yards or so, the beach becomes a little gravelly, so we stopped there, and nestled our stuff under a few overhanging trees in the shade. You all know what happens next….in the water with snorkel gear ready to roll.
Down to the right where there is a rocky shoreline, the Pelicans were crashing into the water one after the other. Where Pelicans dive, there are fish….nuff said. The water is relatively shallow, and the first part of the snorkel we didn’t see much of anything. Eventually, we came upon a school of silversides that was gigantic. It was just a thick cloud of tiny silver fish, so thick that you couldn’t see out of them at times. As you glide into the cloud of baitfish, the sun reflects off each and everyone of them, and the effects are magical as the cloud swarms around you. Of course where there are baitfish, there are bigger fish, MUCH bigger fish. It wasn’t long before we were surrounded by a school of large Tarpon. My guess is that there were at least 8-10 of them, all of them at least 4-5 feet in length. Not too many of these Tarpon miss a meal, as some were as big around as a grown man….it was incredible to swim with these big bruisers. You could always tell when a Tarpon was coming close, as the cloud of silversides would just split apart trying to get out of the way. Once you saw the cloud of baitfish open up, along would come some sort of bigger fish through them.
The Pelicans were another treat. These things were not shy at all, and several times, would crash into the water within 5 feet of you, scooping up the tiny silversides by the hundreds. Well, the Pelicans crashing into the baitfish started a chain reaction. As soon as they’d splash down, the big Tarpon would then slash through eating the injured bait left behind. Tracie & I just floated there in complete awe. If you dove below the surface into the cloud of fish, many times the Tarpon would swim right towards you, veering away when they finally came face to face with you, gliding by within 3 feet. It gives me chills just typing this, as it was easily one of the most exciting snorkels of my life. Just as my heart was calming down, and I was getting used to the Tarpon, it got even better. I see the cloud of baitfish split apart, so I figured it’s just another Tarpon coming on through….WRONG….shark!! This was no Nurse shark either, it was some sort of reef shark. If I had to guess, I believe it was a Lemon shark. It was a little better than 5 feet in length, and just about made me swallow my entire snorkel as it glided on by me. Just like the Tarpon, it came right at me, and once it saw me, it veered off, and went on it’s merry way. I could of easily reached out and touched it….this thing was close!! As startled as I was, that shark wanted nothing to do with me, and I knew it. All that being said, I guarantee it will literally stop your pulse for a second or two. Unfortunately, Tracie missed it, but that of been a good thing. I ended up seeing this guy a couple more times, as he was just cruising along, and staying where the food was. I’m pretty sure I’m having fun now!! After a long while, we started the swim back to the beach. This snorkel must have been at least an hour and a half or more….absolutely awesome, or being from Boston, should I say it was “Wicked Awesome Man!”
Francis is such a beautiful beach, and we hung out for a while just basking in the glory of what we had just experienced. Although there is incredible beauty above the surface of STJ, what lies below the surface is easily as impressive. We picked up our pile of junk, and started walking back towards the jeep. I see something coming out of the bushes. It turns out to be a 3 foot iguana, with the brightest hue of green I’ve ever seen. It was the biggest I’d seen on the island yet, and his markings & color were outstanding. I got a pretty good picture of this dude, (see my picture link). There was actually an even bigger iguana in the bushes right next to the one on the beach, but he was too shy to come out for a clean snapshot. He did stick his head out, but I missed the photo opp.
A little ways closer to the jeep, I see someone waving at us, and as we got closer, I realized it was Bill & Sandie. Is it me, or do you seem to run into someone you’ve met already all over this tiny island??? Everywhere we went, someone was saying hello. We chatted with Bill & Sandie for a few minutes, told them about the snorkeling, and then headed back to the jeep. Off we drove to yet one more beach for the day.
The next stop was Gibney beach. You park right near an iron gate, and walk down a steep driveway of sorts. It’s steep, but not a far walk at all. The fabulous beaches never end it seems, as Gibney was just magnificent. We had the entire beach to ourselves, which was a perfect way to cap off an already great day. We walked down the beach, and spread our neet sheet under some overhanging palms. Gibney is beyond tranquil. I really can’t imagine being anymore content than I am, as we laid back, and just took it all in. After about 20 minutes or so, a couple folks showed up in their dinghys, and we had to share our little slice of paradise. Who knows what would of happened had they not shown up!!
I took several pictures here, and plan to have a few framed as they came out really nice. No snorkeling this time, as we both were running out of gas….a little.
Back at Gallows after a very fulfilling day, we showered up, and got ready to meet the clan for happy hour. When we arrived at the Beach Bar, Bill & Sandie and Bob & Sharon wre already there waiting for us. Of course we had to get “primed” for dinner, and the cocktails tasted like heaven after the day we had. As usual, great conversation & many laughs with our new friends….always a wonderful time. After too many cocktails (or maybe not enough), we decided on the Balcony for dinner after Bill had told us that it was really good.
The Balcony is just a stones throw from the Beach Bar, and up some stairs (hence the name.) As usual, we were seated within minutes without a reservation. Fatigue was setting in, and we were both exhausted from our active day. We sat back in our chairs, sipped our cocktails, and just reveled in each others company. I can’t think of anything better than being with the love of my life, sipping cocktails in paradise….once again, life is grand!! The Balcony was outstanding. Our appetizer was a lobster crepe that was out of this world. The crepes were stuffed with lots of lobster meat, and topped with a sauce that was to die for. I believe I detected a hint of horseradish in the sauce, but whatever was in there, we savored every morsel. Things that make you go “Mmmm.” For our entrees, we both went with the Chilean Sea Bass. Another winner. These were hardly small pieces of fish, they were more like huge chunks. It came out with another delicious sauce, along with grilled asparagus, all of it was fabulous. We actually considered a few drinks after dinner, but both agreed we were too tired, so we hoofed back up to Gallows, and called it a night. Hello bed….good night world.
12/6/06 – Day Whatever….it just doesn’t matter anymore!!
You know you are relaxed when you haven’t known what day it is for a while, and don’t have a clue what time it is. It’s a wonderful feeling. All I knew is that this was our last full day on STJ, and we had to return the jeep by noon (or so). Bill & I had made plans to do a two tank dive out of Caneel today. I met he & Sandie at Caneel sometime around 8:30. The boat was little late picking us up from the Caneel dock, but we just hung out on the beach so there was absolutely no suffering. My apologies, but the name of the dive outfit escapes my brain. Finally they arrived, and we were on our way. There was around 15 people aboard, and maybe 3 dive guides. Everyone was really nice. They did a quick briefing of the dive, and within 15-20 minutes, we were suited up and jumping in. They split us into groups, and our group consisted of myself, Bill, two others and the dive master/guide. For some reason, I was having a really tough time equalizing, and just could clear the pressure from my right ear. Every time I’d attempt to descend, it got really painful. I felt like such a schmuck, as the rest of my group were waiting patiently for me at the bottom in about 50 feet or so. Bottom time is short enough already, let alone waiting for my sorry ass. Finally after many attempts, I cleared my right side, and I was down. The first reef was quite nice, with great coral formations. There was however a strong current here, and we all pulled our way along the sandy bottom to get to the front of the reef. The current also had things stirred up a bit, and visibility was okay, but not great. We all glided around the reef with ease, and I was able to enjoy the dive after a rocky start. Our bottom time was not long, maybe 25-30 minutes max.
We surfaced without any issues, and were off to our second dive site. After our allotted surface interval, it was back into our gear for dive #2. This dive was much smoother, and I was able to equalize in just a couple minutes. I believe the depth here was similar, about 50+ feet. This was a completely different dive, as the visibility was phenomenal. I’ve seen some gorgeous reefs in Grand Cayman, but this reef was as beautiful as any I have ever seen. The coral was amazingly healthy, and had very intense colors. There were some purple tube corals that extended 5-7 feet from the bottom, and couldn’t be more brilliant. You name it, and that color existed here. Not only were the colors electric, but the place was teaming with fish life as well. One of the more impressive sightings was a big fat Cubera Snapper, which had go 25-30 lbs. Bill had also pointed out a juvenile fish of some kind that was pretty rare, but he’ll have to chime in with the name of it. We also saw several lobsters, many of which were huge. I would of loved to see them steaming on my plate, with a bowl of drawn butter!! I was so relaxed on this dive, allowing us a longer dive time, of about 50 minutes. After surfacing, we were quickly on our way back to the dock at Caneel. It was a great dive, thank you again Bill for the invite.
Once back at Caneel, I had to rush on out of there, and get the jeep back to STJ car rental. Made it back with about a minute to spare. I of course wanted to avoid extra charges, and they had already extended my return time by an hour. The entire experience with STJ car rental was good, and I would use them again with out and hesitation. Tracie was waiting for me at the Beach Bar across the street, and we sat and enjoyed a few cold ones, and ate lunch. Again, just a burger for me, and it was very good & cheap. Tracie had been shopping all morning while I was diving. She bought a bunch of small knick knacks like t-shirts, calendars, etc. I was a little tired, so we went back to Gallows and sacked out for a short afternoon nap…..I need more of these in my normal everyday life!!
Tracie had booked us for a parasail in the afternoon, so we hoofed it down to the National Park dock to meet the boat. They were late (big surprise), but eventually they showed up, and once again, we were the only ones on the boat. We motored out into the bay between STT & STJ. Climbed up onto the deck with our harnesses on, got strapped in, and up we flew. Most of you know how spectacular the views are no matter where you are on STJ. Well, when you are 400+ feet in the air, floating over the water, the views are breath taking. You would be amazed how quiet it is up there. The two of us just sat back as I clicked away with the camera. I didn’t dare bring our good camera, so hopefully the disposable underwater camera shots come out okay. The ride was too short as it always seems. It lasted maybe 15 minutes at the most. You’d think the guy would let us fly longer due to being the only ones on the boat, but he was probably late for his next customer. What a great business….charge $50, $60, or $70 bucks per head, and the entire things lasts about ½ an hour. Those guys must make a killing.
Back up the hill we went to Gallows, to hang around the pool until sunset. We have been on the run all week, so anytime we just did nothing was very relaxing. The sun was hot in the afternoon, and every 10-15 minutes, I was back wallowing in the pool. Before long the sun had began to go down, so we mixed up a few cocktails, and enjoyed the show. Tonight’s sunset was the best of the week, lighting up the clouds & sky with every color in the spectrum. I captured many great shots of this one.
Bill & Sandie had invited us over to their villa for dinner along with Bob & Sharon. So we showered up, and met Sharon & Bob out front, and rode in their jeep over to Bill’s villa. This place was grand to say the least. Between the stonework, decks, bathrooms, & views, we were blown away. I go into detail, as I’m sure Bill will include a better description in his report. But know that this place was incredible. It was no surprise that we had great conversation & many laughs. Sandie’s cooking did not disappoint, as I helped myself to seconds of a pork roast with asparagus. Great job Sandie!! Bill turned me on to one of the sauces he bought from Ruth at St John Spice. It had a citrus flair, with a bit of a hot bite. Unusual but very tasty. Of course I can’t remember the name of the stuff, but you can bet I’ll be asking Bill at some point so I can order a bottle from Ruth. We had a great time while we all shared our pictures on the TV. I honestly can’t say enough about the hospitality of Bill & Sandie. They have to be some of the kindest, most welcoming people we have ever met. We will not soon forget our time together. It was getting late, and Bill’s painkillers were taking their toll, so we had our hugs, and said our good byes.
12/7/06 – Day to do our walk of woe.
We had a late flight out of STT, which allowed us some precious last hours by the pool. The sun was bright & hot, and per usual, I was in & out of the pool every few minutes to cool off. Although we both missed our son Tyler very much, it was going to extremely hard to leave such a magical place today. We milked our last bit of time to the last minute before having to shower up and get ready to go home. We had packed early when we got up, so after showering, we were all set with out any thing to stress about. Bob & Sharon were out snorkeling in front of Gallows, but we saw them on the way out, and waved good bye…..you guys owe us a hug!!
That last walk out to the ferry is indeed a sad one. Again, we were so excited to get home and see the boy, but leaving this perfect paradise was tough. Between the ferry, flights, and shuttles, everything went quite smooth, and we were landing back in Boston around 11:30 that night. I was still in shorts, and as I walked out of the terminal into wind chills in the low teens, reality hit me like a brick.
Tracie & I have been lucky enough to experience many different island in the Caribbean, but nothing was as special as St John. Of course our renewing of our vows helps, but even with out doing that, this place captured our hearts forever. There is no doubt we will be back someday soon, if not next year, 2008 is looking good. I hope my long winded stories did not put any of you asleep, and until next time…. To all a good night.
-Scott
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StJohnRuth
- Posts: 1989
- Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:42 pm
- Location: St. John, VI
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Bill in Va
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:56 pm
- Location: Lake Gaston, Va
Gold medal trip report, novice class!!!!!
Yep the judges gave you 10's on your report. Medal is in the mail....Lots of emotion in my reply as I type this. You gave me a "life chance" that very few folk get to experience. When you asked me to take pictures of your vow renewal I felt so honored. I even prayed about it. I wanted every thing to be perfect. Little did I know that the Lord had better things to add, like the rainbow! Sandie and I are so blessed to have met you two and hope our paths will cross in the future. The dive operation is Chris Sawyer out of St Thomas. He has done a great job in redoing the shop and the operation. The fish I spotted was a juvenline drum. Got pic's of it which I will have on my webshot deal. First one I found in 16 years of diving. Have the adult too. The sauce is "Blind Betty's" Blind in the Rind. A local gal, Jill at Connections, is the maker of the Blind Betty stuff. Scott and Tracie we wish you and Tyler the happiest of holidays and look forward to getting you down to our neck of the woods and lake...God bless...Bill and Sandie
Wicked awesome report! 
Thank you SO much for taking the time tio write it. I'm planning to re-read each your installments because I enjoyed them so much.
In July we had a very similar encounter with what may have been the same reef shark you saw
Needless to say, I was looking back over my shoulders for the remainder of that snorkel.
Thank you SO much for taking the time tio write it. I'm planning to re-read each your installments because I enjoyed them so much.In July we had a very similar encounter with what may have been the same reef shark you saw
Needless to say, I was looking back over my shoulders for the remainder of that snorkel.-
nothintolose
- Posts: 1960
- Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:36 pm
- Location: New Orleans, LA
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Tracy in WI
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:39 am
- Location: Wisconsin
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Jan&MikeVa
- Posts: 1084
- Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:32 pm
- Location: The Chesapeake Bay
Scott -
Enjoyed your trip report so much, you are an excellent writer! Sounds like you guys had a better than expected week and we all know that you'll be back!!
It was also great to meet you and Tracie and spend a little time with you. Watch out airfare to BOS is cheap............. keep us posted on JB's schedule!!
Happy Holidays to you both and thanks for sharing your great vacation with us!
Jan (akaCharlie)
Enjoyed your trip report so much, you are an excellent writer! Sounds like you guys had a better than expected week and we all know that you'll be back!!
It was also great to meet you and Tracie and spend a little time with you. Watch out airfare to BOS is cheap............. keep us posted on JB's schedule!!
Happy Holidays to you both and thanks for sharing your great vacation with us!
Jan (akaCharlie)
Scott – You did a fine job with all your trip reports. What a magical time you had on STJ. Snorkeling with sharks and tarpon, meeting new found friends and best of all – renewing your vows with the love of your life. You made a fairytale come true. Thanks so much and I hope that one day – our paths will cross.
FlaGeorge
"Swim Against The Current - Even a Dead Fish Can Go With The Flow"
"Swim Against The Current - Even a Dead Fish Can Go With The Flow"
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Bob & Anita
- Posts: 611
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:20 pm
- Location: Charlotte, NC