Quick trip report from 4/20-4/29/12

Travel discussion for St. John
mindehankins
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Post by mindehankins »

In summary, I offer this:

Trip highlights:
Being away from home and all the accompanying stressors, just the two of us.

Seeing the manta: After so many months of reading about him and wishing. To be in such close proximity to such a huge, graceful creature, AND to be able to take photos to memorialize the encounter, was a priviledge and joy! I'm forever grateful to have been able to swim with the manta, but it was a random occurance, and luck. We missed out on Salt Pond, Lameshur, the Tourist Trap, Salomon/Honeymoon, Gibney, and who knows what else, hanging around on Francis waiting for the manta. Francis is my favorite beach on St. John, but I wish I hadn't been so wrapped up in one specific experience that we missed others. I sure hope dolphins don't start making a regular appearance somewhere on St. John, right before our next visit ;) If they do, I REALLY hope it isn't Brown Bay!

Snorkeling/sailing trip with Capt. Phil and Tarn of Wayward Sailor: His stories were a treat. We loved sailing. Little St. James and Christmas Cove was a great snorkel. I learned to free dive; something I've wanted to do my whole life. When I was a child, it was called "skin diving," and I was endlessly fascinated. It was exciting to learn, and wonderful to overcome a longstanding fear.

Ekaete Pink Corner in Coral Bay: Esther is a TREASURE! She really tries hard to provide something good for everyone, from the local food lover, to the basic/picky eater, to the vegetarian, to those with food allergies. She is passionate about cooking, and passionate about feeding people well, and it shows. I really hope she's wildly successful, but always has space for us!

Lechon food truck on STT: Smoked meats and sides, in what I think is Puerto Rican style. Open only on Saturdays and sold out on our visit by about 3PM. We both loved the food, with dinners running around $15-$20. Located in a truck on the side of the road, near Tutu.

Amalie Car Rental: Constantin and Magdalena provide fabulous, curb-side, friendly service with new vehicles. They have a plan for emergency needs on St. John. I have 100% confidence that they'd do right by us.

New to us:
Laundromat on Centerline: It's surprisingly cool in there! There is an attendant there who will sell you a cup of soap for maybe a buck, and start the machines for you. You don't put your money into the machine, like in the continental US. You just ask the attendant to start the machines for you, and pay when you leave. You can also buy your beer at the laundromat if you want ;) There's a sign on the fridge listing the prices, which start at $2.50.

Brown Bay: This is a pretty long hike to a pretty deserted beach. You probably aren't going to want to haul all of your usual beach gear with you. Take just what you need and plenty of water. We underestimated the hill and the distance, but did have a nice day, mostly all alone. The snorkel out to the left was really great for corals.

Shopping in town: First trip, I could barely get Blaine to drive through town. This trip, we spent most of an evening wandering around, shopping, people watching, and enjoyed it tremendously! Thanks, Ruth, for having everything I needed to make the folks happy when we got home!

Being pale: I've always been tan before coming to St. John, and never worried about or received a burn. This trip was a constant challenge to avoid the sun and/or a burn. Every day something was burning, and I was adding more clothing. I ended up with rashguard, swim shorts and a buff for snorkeling, plus spf 50 and shade if I wasn't snorkeling. I really missed being in the sun :(

Medical issue while on island: Thanks, everyone, for your support! My lips swelled up and I was initially thinking it might be some food allergy, but after I switched to my own snorkel, the issue resolved.

West Indies Itch Relief: We were eaten by no seeums one evening, and I recalled the recommendation for this spray. It worked wonders for the itching, though it is oily.

Kyss Bag: Is too big for it's own britches. Seriously, it's size allowed me to keep adding things that were not really necessary and added weight. The handles are just webbing and not comfortable to care with any weight for any distance. After the first couple of days, we folded it up and carried it INSIDE the backpack, so we could lock up if needed, but carry comfortably. We didn't take anything more valuable than the Kindle with us, so it wouldn't have been the end of the world if someone took it. We did lock up at Francis and Brown Bay. It was a little measure of security.

Kindle on the beach: Blaine couldn't read the Kindle with his sunglasses on. The first time it happened, he fussed with it, thinking it had died, then put it away. The second day, he took off his sunglasses to figure out what was "wrong" and it turned out that he just couldn't see the screen through his sunglasses. Just a heads' up in case it happens to you!

P&Ps by the Sea: Is a very rustic, local food shack, which is exactly what we LOVE on St. John. We liked the rustic setting. Patricia and her helper were very nice. For the price, we didn't care much for the food though. We had dinner. Blaine had grilled Mahi that was very fishy and I had conch in butter sauce and we didn't care for either of the dishes. Given the rustic setting, and food we didn't really care for, the $78 bill (plus $15 tip) just made us laugh. We were much happier with any of the other local eats.


Food:
We brought a cooler with steaks and speedies, cheese, salami, butter, bacon and shiitake pate, and brought my favorite crackers for snacks. I got it just right this time. No left over food. We had breakfast in, ate lunch from Sam and Jacks, and dinner out 4 nights. We shopped for soda on STT (we drink alot of Diet Coke), and groceries at Starfish.

Sam and Jacks: We picked up lunch here almost every day - Sammy Hammy's and something extra. We tried a couple of salads, home made potato chips, tiramisu (OK we had that last time), brownies, and others I can't remember, and EVERYTHING was top notch delicious. Very reasonable, too, I believe. We'll still pick up coconut crack bars from Deli Grotto, but they can't match Sam and Jacks food, in my opinion. Their customer service is also very friendly, fast and personable. After the second day, the young lady knew what our sandwich order would be.

Sogos: A great little local place for me to enjoy local foods and Blaine to have his burger. The food has always been good, prices very reasonable, and service friendly. There's parking right on site.

Vie's: Was the busiest we've seen her, this trip. She seemed anxious about the beach, which we hadn't seen before. I wonder if alot of people are "sneaking" in, or if she's reached maximum capacity in her beach's popularity. The beach is still pretty, with interesting snorkeling, but more littered, and Angel's Rest really is a buzz kill for me. The conch fritters didn't seem as good this time, and I don't know if the food was rushed or I was so disappointed to come back and see Angel's Rest there.

Candi's Ribs: Were as good as ever. We're big Candi's fans!

Til next time,
Blaine and Minde
mindehankins
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Post by mindehankins »

Holy crap, I wrote a bible! It didn't look that long in email form! :roll:
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CBama
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Post by CBama »

thanks Minde.....i enjoyed the whole thing.....
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lprof
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Post by lprof »

Fun report, Minde... thanks for all of it! Interesting summary with some new points for me to ponder. Will be looking forward to your next trip!
... no longer a stranger to paradise
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msgcolleen
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Post by msgcolleen »

Loved your detailed report and awesome pictures Minde!! 8) Thanks for the link on the skipping water ball. I'm gonna order one for our boys to skip in July~ :D
Hope to see Manny too! :shock:
I've got 2 tickets to paradise~Pack your bags we'll leave tonight!

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shoemak38
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Post by shoemak38 »

mindehankins wrote:Holy crap, I wrote a bible! It didn't look that long in email form! :roll:
love it :lol:
mindehankins
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Post by mindehankins »

Msgcolleen, you were one of the people I was hoping would see that part. These boys played for hours and it looked like so much fun that I almost asked if I could play :oops:
Capn Dan and Ruby
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Post by Capn Dan and Ruby »

I love long reports! I really liked it being on one thread!! The birds that you saw are called Guinea (pronounced ginny with a hard g and a short i )Hens. My country Grandmother use to have them. Great pix! Loved the manta pix! :D :D :D
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XOXO
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Post by XOXO »

Sounds like you had a great trip. I enjoyed hearing about it--it sure makes me want to go back!

I really enjoyed the summery, it is so helpful! I am glad you got to see the manta and got a few pictures.

Oh, I have been MIA and don't know what this new thing is at Vi's--Angel's Rest--what is it?

Thank you for sharing your tips, pictures, and vacation!
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jwwj
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Post by jwwj »

Wonderful TR, you no longer can say you don't write well. One of the more enjoyable ones I've read.
Sorry you didn't like P&Ps, it was one of our favorite meals on our last trip and I'd raved about it in my TR.
Loved the story about the manta sighting, almost felt like I was there.
Thanks for posting.
You don't stop playing because you grow old; you grow old because you stop playing.
mindehankins
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Post by mindehankins »

About P&Ps: I only learned about it through trip reports and it sounded RIGHT up our alley....local, rustic, good people and good food. Maybe it was an off night? The service was so friendly, and we liked the location and view, so maybe we'll try lunch sometime. I felt really bad for not loving it, cause we are as far from "fancy" as you can get, but we just didn't.

Angel's Rest is a pontoon boat that you can reserve for small private functions or massages, etc, and I guess when the owner doesn't have an outing planned, he motors over to Miss Vie's beach, where he acts as a swim up bar. I don't like it. I don't think Miss Vie's needed a swim up bar. I thought it was perfect before. I could intellectually understand, when long-timers complained about island changes, before. Now I can emotionally understand :(
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