8 Tuff Miles Trip Report

[chicagoans]

How can a place I’ve only been to three times feel so much like home? Coming back to St. John is like pulling on a favorite pair of worn jeans. It just feels right. (Even driving on the left.)

Here’s the story of my return to Love City.

Back story
It’s been a wish of mine for a couple of years now to do the 8 Tuff Miles race. So in a year of trying to accomplish 50 new things (more about that here: www.kickass50.com) this trip was my 50th birthday gift to myself. I know, pretty nice gift right? My wonderful family was willing to let me leave them at home and vacation with my friend Suzanne. She had never been to St. John before and I was so excited to show her my favorite island!

Day 1: Travel Day
Thank you to the travel gods who gave me plenty of overhead bin space, empty seats next to me, and on-time flights! I actually had fun during the layover in Charlotte. The guy in line in front of me at the bagel place was wearing an 8 Tuff shirt! Turns out he’s one of the timers, and had done the race before.

There at last! 2 flights, a van ride, and a ferry crossing later, and I was there, roughly 22 hours after leaving home. The sun was just starting to set as I at last stepped onto the ferry dock on my lovely St John. Got the car – a cute little Jeep Wrangler – stocked up on some groceries, and made my way across the island to Coral Bay.

I rented a cottage through VRBO and they don’t have a greeter; she just unlocked the house for me ahead of time. I had to find the house in the dark, and since I was by myself this was… umm… interesting. The cottage is Simply St. John, up on Sea Grape Hill. Once I knew where the house was, the drive was fun. But that crazy, steep road with all the switchbacks was really interesting in the dark while trying to follow directions.

Suzanne wasn’t coming until the next night, so I crept around the house turning on lights and making sure there was no crazed, machete-wielding psycho lurking in the shadows. (Not that I could have done much about it if there was!)

After settling my stuff in I headed back down the hill for a burger at Skinny Legs. I talked with 2 nice guys at the bar, and one of them demonstrated his glass eye by clinking his beer bottle against it. They both thought it was really cool that my friend and I were going to do 8 Tuff – a reaction we heard often that week.

I’ll admit that being at the house by myself the first night was kind of scary (am I a wimp?): it’s a Caribbean style cottage, with the bedroom in a separate building from the rest of the house. Since it was warm and I wanted the breezes, I left the doors open and just kept the screen doors shut. Yes, I heard every little sound, including the mosquito dive-bombing my ear. No, I did not sleep well.

Day 2: Salt Pond Bay and Ram Head
Woke up to a sunny blue morning. Ahhhh. Breakfast on the deck with these views.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/288926 ... NuZV"><img src="http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/48083 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="009 View from deck"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/241364 ... JyOK"><img src="http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/47255 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="008 View from deck"></a>

Headed over to Salt Pond Bay, one of my favorite beaches. There were only a few other people when I got there. I felt deeply relaxed and profoundly grateful to be there.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/203524 ... KEHF"><img src="http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/50650 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="011 Salt Pond Bay"></a>

After hanging out in the sun for a while and a quick dip, I did the hike to Ram Head. I can’t get enough of this hike. I love the sound of the water rushing over the rocks at Blue Cobblestone beach.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/279729 ... CeLq"><img src="http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/49639 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="014 Blue Cobblestone"></a>

And I can’t get over the views. The water is such an electric blue, you’d think it’s not real.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/254458 ... mlLe"><img src="http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/16587 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="016 Ram Head hike"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/284599 ... NlBC"><img src="http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/49648 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="017 Ram Head hike"></a>

And I love that point where it’s so windy that I almost lose my hat every time. That wind feels great on a hot day. And of course I love being out on the very tip and just soaking in the views.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/278734 ... Iznm"><img src="http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/48239 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="020 Ram Head hike"></a>


Made myself dinner at the house, and waited for Suzanne. She was on the 10:00 ferry and I met her at the Beach Bar. It was SO great to see her and welcome her to St. John!

On the drive to Coral Bay, she asked a few times “Is this STILL the road we’re running on?” I didn’t blame her. It’s kind of intimidating to do that drive and realize that you are going to try running it soon!

Day 3: Maho and Rhumb Lines
What’s not to love about Maho? Beautiful beach, beautiful weather, lots of laughs with my wonderful friend.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/268641 ... uEfF"><img src="http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/48457 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="027 Maho"></a>

<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/206102 ... zzht"><img src="http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/7450/ ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="029 Maho"></a>

<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/279077 ... FUSV"><img src="http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/50549 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="030 Maho"></a>

Stopped at the smoothie stand on the way home. That Funky Monkey smoothie is crazy good. It’s like dessert – with a real kick. Yummy!

Cleaned up at the house before heading into town for the evening:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/280249 ... wLVE"><img src="http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/47525 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="032 Suz and Kato"></a>

We headed into Cruz Bay to pick up our race bibs at the Tap Room in Mongoose Junction. Back outside, we ran into my friend Brian (a marathoner and 8 Tuff veteran) and his brother Steve, on their way in to pick up their race bibs. Woo hoo! Our friends are here, and we’re all so excited about the race!

Suz and I walked over to Wharfside and stopped into the fun shop behind the Beach Bar. We found some awesome hats! I’m usually only a baseball hat kind of gal, but couldn’t resist. I have to admit that wearing my hat gave me a little bit of swagger. (At least in my mind.) We headed over to Rhumb Lines for dinner. There was a huge crowd and no room, but they set up a new table for us because our hats were so cool. (OK that’s a total lie. There were plenty of open tables.)
Suz and me:

<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/239538 ... jWRw"><img src="http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/48464 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="034 Suz and Kato"></a>

This was my first time at Rhumb Lines. I love how it’s in the heart of Cruz Bay, but the outdoor seating area feels so secluded. We had a great dinner and a nice bottle of wine. I told the waitress to keep the cork so we could take the leftover wine back with us. Feel free to laugh at me now… of course there was no leftover wine!

Day 4: Island Triathlon
Salt Pond Bay: the first leg of our “triathlon” was the hike to Ram Head. I love that hike and figured we could use some prep before 8 Tuff. And I really wanted Suzanne to see those views!
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/261507 ... pVQG"><img src="http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/48877 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="035 Ram Head view"></a>

The second leg of our tri was the swim event: we snorkeled out the right side of Salt Pond Bay, crossed the bay out past the mooring balls and a few big boats, and then snorkeled back in on the left side of the bay. My favorite thing on this snorkel was seeing a sea turtle and following him around for a while. They’re so fun to watch!

We headed over to Cinnamon Bay for part 3 of the triathlon. It was too windy and rough for stand up paddle boards, so we rented 2 single kayaks. The surf shack dude mumbled some vague instructions about where we should kayak, and we were on our way.

We headed out around the back of Cinnamon Cay, past Maho, Little Maho, and on to Francis. We were in fairly open water with the wind to our faces and it was pretty choppy, so it was a good challenge. By the time we got to Francis, we realized that the mumbling surf shack dude had said something like “hug the coastline.” Ooops. We didn’t follow directions very well! But we were laughing and having fun, and we stayed closer to shore on the way back. The wind was to our backs for the return trip, which was good because we were starting to feel the effort.

We relaxed on the beach after finishing our made up “island triathlon” and tried not to worry about running 8 Tuff the next day.

Beautiful Cinnamon:


<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/237104 ... KEFS"><img src="http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/50278 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="038 Cinnamon Bay"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/246624 ... BdGv"><img src="http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/40432 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="040 Cinnamon Bay"></a>

Day 5: 8 Tuff Miles!
You could feel the excitement in the air at the starting line for 8 Tuff. We were thrilled to be part of it!
Our new friend Alfredo at the start:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/238202 ... alOi"><img src="http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/11503 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="090 Start of 8 Tuff"></a>

The race is tough, but sooo fun! There was a very social, friendly vibe to the crowd. There were 12 water stations (and one beer bong station) along the route, and at every station there were people cheering and playing music. The Love City Pan Dragons steel drum band was at one stop and they were great, as were all the other supporters along the route.

My goal was to finish in 2 hours, and we made it in 1:53. Not fast... but I was happy with it!


Finish line joy:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/214122 ... oEgE"><img src="http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/50256 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="041a 8 Tuff Finish"></a>

Race medal:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/294682 ... xKtn"><img src="http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/50011 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="042a Medal"></a>

BTW this race is slightly longer than 8 miles, more like 8.3. We think we did 9 tuff miles because at the finish we saw only 1 outhouse, so Suzanne and I walked up Sea Grape Hill to use the bathroom at our house – another .4 mile or so up and then back again. Never underestimate what a woman will do to avoid an outhouse!

At Skinny Legs after the race; Brian, Suzanne, Steve and me:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/212464 ... QLlO"><img src="http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/48822 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="043 Skinnys after 8 Tuff"></a>

A bit of burger porn:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/236780 ... ELZC"><img src="http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/47657 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="044 Skinnys Burger"></a>

Day 6: Sail / Snorkel Trip to Jost Van Dyke with Cloud 9
Before our trip Pia helped me book a Day Sail with Cloud 9. They were terrific.

Suzanne, Brian, Steve, Alfredo and I went with Cloud 9 to Jost Van Dyke on Sunday. It’s a great boat with a very fun and professional crew. We had a great day!
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/230377 ... aPHH"><img src="http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/50751 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="051 JVD trip"></a>

First stop was snorkeling at Henley Cay:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/292150 ... pNTO"><img src="http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/46682 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="054 Henley Cay"></a>

Then on to White Bay on JVD:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/240207 ... oviz"><img src="http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/47905 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="057 JVD"></a>

No trip would be complete without a stop at Foxy’s:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/255443 ... TFJN"><img src="http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/49934 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="061 Foxy's"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/292581 ... SenD"><img src="http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/17016 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="063 Foxy's"></a>

Lunch at Foxy’s – the chicken roti was delicious. Some beverage porn:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/250158 ... YfJN"><img src="http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/49814 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="062 Foxy's"></a>

Final stop was the Soggy Dollar. It was packed but we had a great time anyway.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/253982 ... YEWf"><img src="http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/20184 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="070 Soggy Dollar"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/247318 ... TyTw"><img src="http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/49555 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="097 Soggy Dollar"></a>

Then it was back on the boat for a fast and exciting sail back to STJ.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/226133 ... CHQw"><img src="http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/48441 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="071 Cloud 9 sail"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/256765 ... tIuP"><img src="http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/48312 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="099 Sailing"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/224457 ... Dyui"><img src="http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/49954 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="101 Sailing"></a>

Later that night we met up again at the Beach Bar. I did a swing along the beach looking for some forumites, but didn’t see any familiar faces or forum tee shirts. I know some of you were there and I’m sorry I missed you!

We bellied up to the bar and enjoyed the terrific band.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/213533 ... Kfor"><img src="http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/46999 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="077 Beach Bar band"></a>

At one point they left the stage (still playing), went across the beach and stood in the water, still playing.
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/240331 ... QXJP"><img src="http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/48661 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="078 Beach Bar band"></a>

Day 7: Jumbie and Little Lameshur
Suzanne had to leave on Monday morning, so I sadly dropped her off at the ferry dock. I know she loved it and will come back to STJ, hopefully to do 8 Tuff with me again.

I spent the morning at Jumbie, a sweet little beach on the north shore of St. John, down a short trail from the road. This was my first time there and I found a quiet little spot to settle in:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/261174 ... PYaY"><img src="http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/47955 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="083 Jumbie - my spot"></a>

In the afternoon I headed out to Little Lameshur. I love that crazy drive! Unpaved, rutted, steep, rocky… you get a bit of everything.

Little Lameshur:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/245005 ... KYUx"><img src="http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/47707 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="084 Little Lameshur"></a>
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/217720 ... cLKo"><img src="http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/49611 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="085 Little Lameshur"></a>

I had my favorite snorkel at Little Lameshur and wished someone was there to share it with me! I saw 3 squid – they are so strange and unique. I also saw a couple spotted eels. I waited awhile over one of them and got to see it swimming between rocks. They look really cool when they swim.

I had dinner at Shipwreck Landing with Brian and Steve. Thanks for buying me dinner guys! That was very sweet and of course they had me laughing throughout the meal.

It was my last night on STJ, and I was in the house alone again. There was a very strong and loud wind storm and the motion detector lights on the deck kept going on, probably because of plants in the wind. At least that’s what I kept telling myself, because I didn’t want it to be anything else out there!

Day 8: Home Again
Leaving STJ is always tough, but this time I had something to look forward to: seeing my family again! I missed them tremendously, and was really happy to be with them again when I got home.

I’m already angling to do 8 Tuff again next year, this time with my family and Suzanne’s family too. Who else wants to go? You’ll love it!

[Kentuckygirl]

Thank you so much for your report. It kind of freakishly started out like my 8 tuff trip last year. I must say I had some nervous excitement going on. I arrived on island a day before my husband and had the same kind of feelings it sounds like you did...getting the jeep and driving to Coral Bay by myself, staying in an unfamiliar villa, with the bedrooms downstairs and away from the living areas of the house...
It ended up being so awesome, and now I think I could go on my own. My sister and I may go this summer, which would be perfect! I can't wait to go back for 8 tuff again, hopefully next year!
What did you think of Simply St John? It's been on my list

[loria]

sounds like a great trip! was thinking about you on the day of the race.

[FinsUp]

Awesome TR! Thanks for sharing!! Kudos to you on 8 Tuff miles and also braving a couple of nights by yourself. You are much more adventurous than I!!

[Gigi]

Sounds like an awesome trip - what a wonderful birthday gift to yourself - thanks for sharing!

[msgcolleen]

How cool is that!?! The 8 Tuff is on my gotta do list too! Maybe next year?
Awesome report and pics and you look fabulous at 50!

[ColumbiaSCTraveler]

What a GREAT TR! Thanks for sharing!

I admire ANYONE who completes 8 Tuff! Superstar you are!

I may try paddleboarding this year! Seems to be picking up in popularity on the island! What is the cost, if you don't mind me asking?

[Pia]

Wonderful trip report - it sounds like you had a fabulous time

[alw1977]

Yay for you! 8 Tuff is on my bucket list. Do you mind sharing if you're a regular runner? Or, did you train specially for this race?

[liamsaunt]

Thanks for the report, and congratulations on running 8 Tuff! I get tired just driving that route!

[Lovermont]

Race medal:
<a href="http://travel.webshots.com/photo/294682 ... xKtn"><img src="http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/50011 ... 500Q85.jpg" alt="042a Medal"></a>

A medal and a functional tool. Awesome! Great report. Happy 50th Birth Year to you!

[toni]

What a fun report

I'm with you on the sleeping in a place by myself vibe; I tend to overworry about every noise...

Congrats on the race-I second the "you look fabulous at 50" comment from msgcolleen!

[chicagoans]

Thanks everyone for reading the TR!

Here's some answers for those who had questions:

Simply St. John: I liked the villa - simple, inexpensive, fantastic views and I really like the location. Downside: there's another building right next door (the contract calls it Simply St. John North, while VRBO leaves off the "North." So, there's a "South" or whatever.) Normally that would be fine but there was a couple with a baby that cried continuously. I have kids, I get it, but sometimes we were afraid he had been left alone because he cried for so long. I’ll do a villa review after I get my deposit back (I want to see how timely the owner is on that.)

Am I a runner: kinda sorta but not a very serious one (not very fast and not very far!) I was training pretty well for 8 Tuff until Thanksgiving, when I hurt myself (pulled my piriformus badly, and the physical therapist I went to thinks my sciatic nerve is involved. It still hurts/cramps when I sit for a long time and when I drive. Sometimes cramps when I run.) My friend Suzanne is not (or was not) a runner, but started training until she hurt her knee. Despite our minor injuries, 8 Tuff was actually easier than I thought it would be. My goal was to finish in less than 2 hours, and we made it in 1:53. We definitely weren't the only people who walked for part of it. I like that the organizers encourage people to line up according to how fast they think they’ll run it. So Suzanne and I stayed toward the back at the starting point, and while we passed many people, we weren’t in the way of any serious runners. You could walk the whole way and have plenty of company I think.

Paddle boarding cost: It's not very much; here’s some info I got from sweet Pia who can help you book it if you want.
- Maho Bay Campground: 1 hour $25; 3 hours $35; 6 hours $50; 1-800-392-9004 or 340-715-0501
- Arawak Half Day SUP Rental: $40; Full Day SUP Rental: $65; includes a lesson; includes car rack; 1 (800) 238-8687 or 1 (340) 693-8312
- Cinnamon Bay Campground (340) 776-6330 or (340) 693-5654 about the same as Maho I think (kayaks were only $20 per kayak for an hour)
- Karen - will deliver to you 340-642-9419 – I don’t have pricing

[Kim]

Awesome trip report, thank you so much for sharing! And congrats on completing the race. I have been wanting to do this one for a while, and I think the race medal has me convinced now...never seen a functional medal before. How cool!!

[augie]

Great trip report - 8 tuff is on my bucket list also, and you're pretty adenturous to do all of that stuff solo!

Congratulations!