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10 more days in paradise, part one
10 more days in paradise, part one
Hello forum! Here is an accounting of my latest visit to St. John. This was trip #17 for John and I since our first visit in 2003. Despite our frequent visits, we always find someplace new to explore. This time we stayed at Gallows Point, and for a change of pace I did NO home cooking the entire time, so I have lots of restaurants to report on. I’ll add more detail about everywhere we ate in the review section once I have time to type everything up. This report will mostly have the food photos, and in cases where I have itemized receipts I will put in the cost of what we ordered for those of you who might be making your dining plans.
Day one-travel day
We flew Jet Blue’s new non-stop service from Boston to St. Thomas. Nice flight, we watched Dolphin Tale (cute!). Despite having to wait at the gate for 40 minutes for some folks to connect to our flight, we still arrived 30 minutes early to STT. When we arrived at the luggage carousel, our checked bags were already out and ready to be picked up! I was both shocked and impressed! Of course this means I will never ever be able to get John to agree to fly carry on only, but I digress…we headed off to Red Hook (Public taxi fare for two, with bags: $30 plus tip). We had just enough time to share a Virgin Islands Pale Ale before the 4 PM ferry to St. John.
Our Gallows unit was an ocean upper (4D). This was our fifth time staying at Gallows. I really like it here. I especially love the lush plantings on the property:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772962082/" title="gallows upside down flowers by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6772 ... 9e36aa.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="gallows upside down flowers"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911083059/" title="gallows flower by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... 7e9885.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows flower"></a>
I did a detailed review of Gallows Point in the villa review section if you are interested. First night’s sunset view from our unit:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911059491/" title="kekoa and boats sunset by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6911 ... 88d4f3.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="kekoa and boats sunset"></a>
Dinner was at Rhumblines. We had all of the shrimp on the pupu section of the menu—my favorite is the cornmeal crusted with cilantro dipping sauce, and then shared the spicy tuna and shrimp pad thai. The food was not as spicy as I remembered from previous trips, but it was fine (no pictures-- too dark, and no itemized receipt, sorry).
Day two-Gallows gravity day
We were not picking up our jeep until Sunday, so spent Saturday relaxing at Gallows. We walked into town to run a few errands, and also met Curly Spice. He is very cute! Back to Gallows for snorkeling. Daytime view from our unit:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911091993/" title="4d view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6911 ... 290c3a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="4d view"></a>
Snorkel entry:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062013/" title="gallows ramp by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6911 ... 8ee912.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="gallows ramp"></a>
The coral is better on the right side than on the left these days. Sightings included a burred pufferfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060771/" title="gallows puffer by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6911 ... 40af23.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="gallows puffer"></a>
Here it is again with a trumpetfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772962484/" title="puffer with trumpetfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6772 ... f3e969.jpg" width="487" height="500" alt="puffer with trumpetfish"></a>
Stoplight parrotfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060381/" title="gallows parrotfish teeth by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6911 ... cae76a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows parrotfish teeth"></a>
We went looking for the barracuda that used to live under the raft, but I think he has moved on to other places:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062187/" title="gallows dock fish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6911 ... d9f41a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="gallows dock fish"></a>
We did find this baby barracuda:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077253/" title="gallows barracuda by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6919 ... 7466b7.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows barracuda"></a>
After snorkeling we headed in to town for lunch at Waterfront Bistro. Restaurant view:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060635/" title="waterfront bistro view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6911 ... 7b3bb1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="waterfront bistro view"></a>
Tuna nicoise salad ($18 ):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061051/" title="waterfront bistro tuna nicoise by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6911 ... 31fc7d.jpg" width="500" height="316" alt="waterfront bistro tuna nicoise"></a>
Mahi wrap ($12):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061213/" title="waterfront bistro maahi wrap by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... 7b2655.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="waterfront bistro maahi wrap"></a>
Headed back to Gallows for a nap and a slightly hazy sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061403/" title="saturday suinset by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6911 ... c00eb9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="saturday suinset"></a>
Then back into town for dinner at Banana Deck. Conch fritters (nice sauce, but undercooked in the center), and a special of fettucini with blackened mahi:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061675/" title="banana deck mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6911 ... dfdbfa.jpg" width="500" height="351" alt="banana deck mahi"></a>
The fish was nice and fresh, but the portion was HUGE—enough for about four people! After dinner we headed further in to town with the full intention of going to the Relay for Life, but despite our naps earlier in the day, we were both completely dragging and in need of yet more sleep. So, after a short time, we headed back to Gallows and crashed.
Day three
After a quick stop in to the new Low Key Watersports location for a new mask and snorkel for me (mine seem to wear out every couple of years, I don’t know why!), we picked up our jeep at St. John Car Rental. The jeep was in like-new condition (which always makes me a little nervous!). We headed off to Maho with our picnic from Deli Grotto (forgot to take pictures, sorry). Maho:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062371/" title="maho by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6911 ... 74a1bc.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho"></a>
We were at Maho for one reason and one reason only: to find the manta ray that I had been reading about! We started out by snorkeling the right side around the point to Little Maho. It was a nice snorkel. Squid:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063395/" title="maho squid by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6911 ... 23790b.jpg" width="500" height="370" alt="maho squid"></a>
Cushion sea star:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063819/" title="maho starfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6911 ... aede37.jpg" width="500" height="380" alt="maho starfish"></a>
Turtle:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062749/" title="maho turtle rising up close by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6911 ... 554688.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="maho turtle rising up close"></a>
Southern stingray:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063649/" title="maho ray with jacks by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6911 ... 6a19a1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho ray with jacks"></a>
Scrawled filefish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063135/" title="maho filefish 4 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6911 ... 36ccbe.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho filefish 4"></a>
We headed back to shore to warm up and read for a while.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077665/" title="MAHO PELICAN BEACH by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6919 ... 95f5ba.jpg" width="500" height="312" alt="MAHO PELICAN BEACH"></a>
At one point, I glanced up and saw it—the manta, swimming offshore! We scrambled in to the water but by the time we got our snorkel gear on, it was out of sight. Darn! We waited around for a while with no luck. Finally, I gave up and brought our gear in to shore. Right when I turned back around to come back into the water—it came back! ARGH!! John tried swimming after it, but without his fins the best picture he could get was a tip of its wing.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919078029/" title="manta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6919 ... d400_m.jpg" width="240" height="135" alt="manta"></a>
Oh well…we vowed we would be back and darn it we would see that manta before the end of the vacation!
Back to Gallows for the sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063971/" title="sunday sunset best by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6911 ... 614967.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="sunday sunset best"></a>
Dinner that night was at La Plancha del Mar. Wow, this was a great meal! They have really kicked things up here. Cocktails. John’s was a spiced margarita, and mine was a muddled cucumber-mint something or other:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064027/" title="la plancha cocktails by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... fdef08.jpg" width="377" height="500" alt="la plancha cocktails"></a>
Amuse of chorizo, scallion oil, and manchengo:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064091/" title="la pancha amuse by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6911 ... db96c5.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="la pancha amuse"></a>
Appetizer of “pan y queso”:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064151/" title="la plancha pan y queso by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6911 ... 885212.jpg" width="500" height="402" alt="la plancha pan y queso"></a>
Mahi with yellowtail snapper fume, asparagus and coconut rice:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064221/" title="la plancha mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6911 ... 02e7ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="la plancha mahi"></a>
Tuna with local sweet potatoes (these were AMAZING!) and garlicky ginger broccoli:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064269/" title="la plancha tuna by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6911 ... 3271de.jpg" width="500" height="314" alt="la plancha tuna"></a>
We were way too full for dessert, thought they sounded really good. Back to Gallows for stargazing with the starwalk app (if you don’t have this app, get it before you come down—it is so cool and identifies all of the stars and constellations in your view).
Day four—operation manta
We were determined to see that manta ray today, so after a stop at Sam and Jacks deli for a picnic (forgot to photo it—sorry! We didn’t end up eating it today anyway), we went back to Maho Bay.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919078351/" title="maho right side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6919 ... 1ecdca.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho right side"></a>
It was much cloudier and cooler today. We were not at the beach for more than 10 minutes before we spotted the manta again! We had to head out into very deep water—beyond the boat mooring balls-- before we caught up with it, so the photos are not great, but at least we did get to see it. Here is the manta approaching:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065017/" title="maho manta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6911 ... a8b6db.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho manta"></a>
And here you can see its mouth and gills:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064679/" title="maho manta mouth by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6911 ... 2e6a65.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho manta mouth"></a>
It is huge! I would estimate about 7-foot wingspan. What a beautiful creature.
The water seemed so much cooler today, probably due to the cloud cover, so after finding the manta we did not snorkel much longer. We did find a large conch nursery, small fish hanging around the mooring lines:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065509/" title="maho boat buouy by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6911 ... 8272df.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho boat buouy"></a>
A pair of turtles that looked like they were kissing!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077853/" title="maho kissing turtles by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6919 ... 0ff6c5.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho kissing turtles"></a>
and this very crusty crab:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065251/" title="maho crusty crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6911 ... 3b9729.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho crusty crab"></a>
We spent the rest of the day just reading on the beach. In this photo you can see our favorite spot to set up on Maho—the area with the rocks in the sand. Nobody likes to set up here so we usually get a whole shady area to ourselves.:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772963424/" title="mahoooo by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6772 ... 1315b9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="mahoooo"></a>
And then headed back for a slightly cloudy but still very pretty sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065637/" title="monday sunset behind cloud by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6911 ... 3c6b19.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="monday sunset behind cloud"></a>
For dinner tonight we decided to head to the Fatty Crab. There were not too many people dining when we arrived, which is a shame, because I like the food here. John and I sort of wonder if this spot is cursed—there have been so many different restaurants in this space, and none of them seem to last very long. We started out with mahi sliders ($10):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065745/" title="fatty crab fish sliders by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6911 ... bf559d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab fish sliders"></a>
Really nice, crispy and fresh fish, with a bright slaw. Then we shared the green papaya-mango salad ($11):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065815/" title="fatty crab green papaya and mango by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7036/6911 ... 2d72b3.jpg" width="500" height="349" alt="fatty crab green papaya and mango"></a>
Which we also enjoyed—hot and sour, salty, and crunchy. Then we tried the seared mahi with long bean-chile slaw ($27):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065901/" title="fatty crab mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6911 ... 6054b3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab mahi"></a>
I’ll admit that I was a little hesitant about this, because I had never eaten mahi cooked medium-rare before. But, it turned out that I liked the texture very much. The chile slaw was nice and spicy.
Since this was the first time we had eaten anything all day, we were still hungry, so decided to split the snapper bakar with homemade sriracha sauce $32) Sorry for those of you who are squicked out by whole fish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065981/" title="fatty crab snapper by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6911 ... 2dacc6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab snapper"></a>
This was really, really tasty. The fish was nice and moist. It had a second sauce with it—I think it was kecap manis aka sweet soy--but I only ate the sriracha. I love sriracha!
Finally, we ordered dessert, mostly because the description of it sounded so bizarre that we could not figure out how it would work. Coconut-cardamom panna cotta with raisins, sea salt, and peanuts, plus some other things I am forgetting ($10):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911066057/" title="fatty crab panna cotta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6911 ... 99116f.jpg" width="500" height="367" alt="fatty crab panna cotta"></a>
Well, it was awesome. Definitely my favorite dessert of the trip.
Day one-travel day
We flew Jet Blue’s new non-stop service from Boston to St. Thomas. Nice flight, we watched Dolphin Tale (cute!). Despite having to wait at the gate for 40 minutes for some folks to connect to our flight, we still arrived 30 minutes early to STT. When we arrived at the luggage carousel, our checked bags were already out and ready to be picked up! I was both shocked and impressed! Of course this means I will never ever be able to get John to agree to fly carry on only, but I digress…we headed off to Red Hook (Public taxi fare for two, with bags: $30 plus tip). We had just enough time to share a Virgin Islands Pale Ale before the 4 PM ferry to St. John.
Our Gallows unit was an ocean upper (4D). This was our fifth time staying at Gallows. I really like it here. I especially love the lush plantings on the property:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772962082/" title="gallows upside down flowers by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6772 ... 9e36aa.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="gallows upside down flowers"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911083059/" title="gallows flower by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... 7e9885.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows flower"></a>
I did a detailed review of Gallows Point in the villa review section if you are interested. First night’s sunset view from our unit:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911059491/" title="kekoa and boats sunset by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6911 ... 88d4f3.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="kekoa and boats sunset"></a>
Dinner was at Rhumblines. We had all of the shrimp on the pupu section of the menu—my favorite is the cornmeal crusted with cilantro dipping sauce, and then shared the spicy tuna and shrimp pad thai. The food was not as spicy as I remembered from previous trips, but it was fine (no pictures-- too dark, and no itemized receipt, sorry).
Day two-Gallows gravity day
We were not picking up our jeep until Sunday, so spent Saturday relaxing at Gallows. We walked into town to run a few errands, and also met Curly Spice. He is very cute! Back to Gallows for snorkeling. Daytime view from our unit:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911091993/" title="4d view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6911 ... 290c3a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="4d view"></a>
Snorkel entry:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062013/" title="gallows ramp by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6911 ... 8ee912.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="gallows ramp"></a>
The coral is better on the right side than on the left these days. Sightings included a burred pufferfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060771/" title="gallows puffer by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6911 ... 40af23.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="gallows puffer"></a>
Here it is again with a trumpetfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772962484/" title="puffer with trumpetfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6772 ... f3e969.jpg" width="487" height="500" alt="puffer with trumpetfish"></a>
Stoplight parrotfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060381/" title="gallows parrotfish teeth by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6911 ... cae76a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows parrotfish teeth"></a>
We went looking for the barracuda that used to live under the raft, but I think he has moved on to other places:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062187/" title="gallows dock fish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6911 ... d9f41a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="gallows dock fish"></a>
We did find this baby barracuda:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077253/" title="gallows barracuda by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6919 ... 7466b7.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="gallows barracuda"></a>
After snorkeling we headed in to town for lunch at Waterfront Bistro. Restaurant view:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911060635/" title="waterfront bistro view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6911 ... 7b3bb1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="waterfront bistro view"></a>
Tuna nicoise salad ($18 ):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061051/" title="waterfront bistro tuna nicoise by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6911 ... 31fc7d.jpg" width="500" height="316" alt="waterfront bistro tuna nicoise"></a>
Mahi wrap ($12):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061213/" title="waterfront bistro maahi wrap by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... 7b2655.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="waterfront bistro maahi wrap"></a>
Headed back to Gallows for a nap and a slightly hazy sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061403/" title="saturday suinset by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6911 ... c00eb9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="saturday suinset"></a>
Then back into town for dinner at Banana Deck. Conch fritters (nice sauce, but undercooked in the center), and a special of fettucini with blackened mahi:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911061675/" title="banana deck mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6911 ... dfdbfa.jpg" width="500" height="351" alt="banana deck mahi"></a>
The fish was nice and fresh, but the portion was HUGE—enough for about four people! After dinner we headed further in to town with the full intention of going to the Relay for Life, but despite our naps earlier in the day, we were both completely dragging and in need of yet more sleep. So, after a short time, we headed back to Gallows and crashed.
Day three
After a quick stop in to the new Low Key Watersports location for a new mask and snorkel for me (mine seem to wear out every couple of years, I don’t know why!), we picked up our jeep at St. John Car Rental. The jeep was in like-new condition (which always makes me a little nervous!). We headed off to Maho with our picnic from Deli Grotto (forgot to take pictures, sorry). Maho:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062371/" title="maho by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6911 ... 74a1bc.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho"></a>
We were at Maho for one reason and one reason only: to find the manta ray that I had been reading about! We started out by snorkeling the right side around the point to Little Maho. It was a nice snorkel. Squid:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063395/" title="maho squid by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6911 ... 23790b.jpg" width="500" height="370" alt="maho squid"></a>
Cushion sea star:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063819/" title="maho starfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6911 ... aede37.jpg" width="500" height="380" alt="maho starfish"></a>
Turtle:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911062749/" title="maho turtle rising up close by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6911 ... 554688.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="maho turtle rising up close"></a>
Southern stingray:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063649/" title="maho ray with jacks by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6911 ... 6a19a1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho ray with jacks"></a>
Scrawled filefish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063135/" title="maho filefish 4 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6911 ... 36ccbe.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho filefish 4"></a>
We headed back to shore to warm up and read for a while.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077665/" title="MAHO PELICAN BEACH by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6919 ... 95f5ba.jpg" width="500" height="312" alt="MAHO PELICAN BEACH"></a>
At one point, I glanced up and saw it—the manta, swimming offshore! We scrambled in to the water but by the time we got our snorkel gear on, it was out of sight. Darn! We waited around for a while with no luck. Finally, I gave up and brought our gear in to shore. Right when I turned back around to come back into the water—it came back! ARGH!! John tried swimming after it, but without his fins the best picture he could get was a tip of its wing.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919078029/" title="manta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6919 ... d400_m.jpg" width="240" height="135" alt="manta"></a>
Oh well…we vowed we would be back and darn it we would see that manta before the end of the vacation!
Back to Gallows for the sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911063971/" title="sunday sunset best by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6911 ... 614967.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="sunday sunset best"></a>
Dinner that night was at La Plancha del Mar. Wow, this was a great meal! They have really kicked things up here. Cocktails. John’s was a spiced margarita, and mine was a muddled cucumber-mint something or other:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064027/" title="la plancha cocktails by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6911 ... fdef08.jpg" width="377" height="500" alt="la plancha cocktails"></a>
Amuse of chorizo, scallion oil, and manchengo:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064091/" title="la pancha amuse by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6911 ... db96c5.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="la pancha amuse"></a>
Appetizer of “pan y queso”:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064151/" title="la plancha pan y queso by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6911 ... 885212.jpg" width="500" height="402" alt="la plancha pan y queso"></a>
Mahi with yellowtail snapper fume, asparagus and coconut rice:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064221/" title="la plancha mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6911 ... 02e7ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="la plancha mahi"></a>
Tuna with local sweet potatoes (these were AMAZING!) and garlicky ginger broccoli:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064269/" title="la plancha tuna by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6911 ... 3271de.jpg" width="500" height="314" alt="la plancha tuna"></a>
We were way too full for dessert, thought they sounded really good. Back to Gallows for stargazing with the starwalk app (if you don’t have this app, get it before you come down—it is so cool and identifies all of the stars and constellations in your view).
Day four—operation manta
We were determined to see that manta ray today, so after a stop at Sam and Jacks deli for a picnic (forgot to photo it—sorry! We didn’t end up eating it today anyway), we went back to Maho Bay.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919078351/" title="maho right side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6919 ... 1ecdca.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho right side"></a>
It was much cloudier and cooler today. We were not at the beach for more than 10 minutes before we spotted the manta again! We had to head out into very deep water—beyond the boat mooring balls-- before we caught up with it, so the photos are not great, but at least we did get to see it. Here is the manta approaching:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065017/" title="maho manta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6911 ... a8b6db.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho manta"></a>
And here you can see its mouth and gills:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911064679/" title="maho manta mouth by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6911 ... 2e6a65.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho manta mouth"></a>
It is huge! I would estimate about 7-foot wingspan. What a beautiful creature.
The water seemed so much cooler today, probably due to the cloud cover, so after finding the manta we did not snorkel much longer. We did find a large conch nursery, small fish hanging around the mooring lines:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065509/" title="maho boat buouy by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6911 ... 8272df.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho boat buouy"></a>
A pair of turtles that looked like they were kissing!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6919077853/" title="maho kissing turtles by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6919 ... 0ff6c5.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho kissing turtles"></a>
and this very crusty crab:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065251/" title="maho crusty crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6911 ... 3b9729.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho crusty crab"></a>
We spent the rest of the day just reading on the beach. In this photo you can see our favorite spot to set up on Maho—the area with the rocks in the sand. Nobody likes to set up here so we usually get a whole shady area to ourselves.:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6772963424/" title="mahoooo by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6772 ... 1315b9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="mahoooo"></a>
And then headed back for a slightly cloudy but still very pretty sunset:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065637/" title="monday sunset behind cloud by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6911 ... 3c6b19.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="monday sunset behind cloud"></a>
For dinner tonight we decided to head to the Fatty Crab. There were not too many people dining when we arrived, which is a shame, because I like the food here. John and I sort of wonder if this spot is cursed—there have been so many different restaurants in this space, and none of them seem to last very long. We started out with mahi sliders ($10):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065745/" title="fatty crab fish sliders by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6911 ... bf559d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab fish sliders"></a>
Really nice, crispy and fresh fish, with a bright slaw. Then we shared the green papaya-mango salad ($11):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065815/" title="fatty crab green papaya and mango by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7036/6911 ... 2d72b3.jpg" width="500" height="349" alt="fatty crab green papaya and mango"></a>
Which we also enjoyed—hot and sour, salty, and crunchy. Then we tried the seared mahi with long bean-chile slaw ($27):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065901/" title="fatty crab mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6911 ... 6054b3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab mahi"></a>
I’ll admit that I was a little hesitant about this, because I had never eaten mahi cooked medium-rare before. But, it turned out that I liked the texture very much. The chile slaw was nice and spicy.
Since this was the first time we had eaten anything all day, we were still hungry, so decided to split the snapper bakar with homemade sriracha sauce $32) Sorry for those of you who are squicked out by whole fish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911065981/" title="fatty crab snapper by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6911 ... 2dacc6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fatty crab snapper"></a>
This was really, really tasty. The fish was nice and moist. It had a second sauce with it—I think it was kecap manis aka sweet soy--but I only ate the sriracha. I love sriracha!
Finally, we ordered dessert, mostly because the description of it sounded so bizarre that we could not figure out how it would work. Coconut-cardamom panna cotta with raisins, sea salt, and peanuts, plus some other things I am forgetting ($10):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/6911066057/" title="fatty crab panna cotta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6911 ... 99116f.jpg" width="500" height="367" alt="fatty crab panna cotta"></a>
Well, it was awesome. Definitely my favorite dessert of the trip.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
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GotToGetAway
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:55 pm
- Location: FL
As always, thanks for the awesome trip report.
ALWAYS love to hear about your trips and, more importantly, LOVE your photos. Plus - you are SO good at getting your reports right off. Kudos to you!
We are counting down until our yearly April trip. This report is just what I needed today - when I am "at work", but, dreaming of the islands, instead.
Fantastic to hear about the Manta Ray sitings. Hopefully, we will be lucky enough to see him/her, as well.
Your food porn is always amazing. AND you saw my favorite fish (the pufferfish) on your first day!! Great shots! You are, as usual, off to a great start!
Looking forward to your next installment. And - thanks for bringing the tropical temperatures back home to Massachusetts with you!
Sue
ALWAYS love to hear about your trips and, more importantly, LOVE your photos. Plus - you are SO good at getting your reports right off. Kudos to you!
We are counting down until our yearly April trip. This report is just what I needed today - when I am "at work", but, dreaming of the islands, instead.
Fantastic to hear about the Manta Ray sitings. Hopefully, we will be lucky enough to see him/her, as well.
Your food porn is always amazing. AND you saw my favorite fish (the pufferfish) on your first day!! Great shots! You are, as usual, off to a great start!
Looking forward to your next installment. And - thanks for bringing the tropical temperatures back home to Massachusetts with you!
Sue
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msgcolleen
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:33 am
- Location: Allen, Texas
Sweet and tasty reporting as always! It's the next best thing to being there . . . 
. . . cheaper too! Thanks! 
. . . cheaper too! Thanks! I've got 2 tickets to paradise~Pack your bags we'll leave tonight!
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
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Kentuckygirl
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 10:17 am
- Location: Kentucky
[/url]I was so excited to log in today and see a trip report by you! I was not disappointed either..great pictures and food descriptions. I also really liked Fatty Crab last time we were on island, it is a shame they are not busy...perhaps word will get out and the curse will be lifted. I will make a point of going there next month as well as all the other restaurants you mention!
Just home from a busy day at work. Feet up with a cup of coffee and Ohhh laa laa a trip report.
Glad you got to see the manta ray. What an awesome creature. Love the under shot picture.
Thanks for the food pictures. I love that you included the price.
Can't wait for next installment!
Gota try fatty crabs next time.
Glad you got to see the manta ray. What an awesome creature. Love the under shot picture.
Thanks for the food pictures. I love that you included the price.
Can't wait for next installment!
Gota try fatty crabs next time.
