La Papaya, June 2011

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suzanna945
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La Papaya, June 2011

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About us: Dad, Mom, 21-year old daughter, and 16-year old son. We’re from Marblehead, Massachusetts, and this was our fourth time staying at La Papaya on St. John. Our trip was from June 22 through June 28.

Day 1

We touched down at Cyril King Airport on St Thomas on time at 12:30 pm on Wednesday. We called Dependable Car Rental as we landed, and after only a few minutes the Dependable driver arrived. After the short drive to the car rental office and signing some paperwork, we were on our way. Our first stop was the Food Center on St. Thomas, where we bought the majority of our villa provisions/groceries for the week: grand total was $180. After shopping, we got on the car ferry and enjoyed cold Presidentes and the beautiful views on the trip across the water to St. John. We were back!

We got to the beautiful La Papaya and just took a minute after we stepped through the front gate to look around and take it all in…we love this place and were so happy to be back. The villa and views are stunning and it always takes our breath away a little the first time we walk in after being away for a year or two. There was a nice welcome basket full of treats from Sam and Jack’s Deli in the fridge waiting for us, and vases of flowers all over the villa. The kitchen at La Papaya is a cook’s dream, and we have always grilled most of our dinners on previous trips, but this time around we had vowed to try more restaurants. Still, we appreciated the nice basket of goodies from Sam and Jack’s Deli. For settling in, my husband and I took the east bedroom, our teenaged son took the west bedroom, and our 21-year-old daughter took the apartment on the lower level. La Papaya has lots of room to spread out, which is one of the reasons we love it. Our son loves the views of the pool and St. Thomas from the west bedroom, and our daughter loves the privacy of the downstairs rooms. We all love the expansive deck space at La Papaya, and the beautiful grounds. I love laying out in the sun on the upper deck and around the pool, and my husband loves being able to be in the shade on the lower deck or under the portico outside the east bedroom. There are banana trees, lime trees, palms and flowering bushes everywhere. The whole place is gorgeous and very comfortable. Everybody’s happy!

After unpacking, we all went into the pool and relaxed for a while after our journey. For dinner, we headed into Cruz Bay and parked at Slim Man’s. We went to the Fish Trap, a place we’d wanted to try for a long time but never seemed to hit on previous trips to the island. We loved it…we had the almond-encrusted Corvina in goat cheese sauce, the grilled pepper-jack Mahi Mahi, and conch fritters. The fish was excellent all around. The kids enjoyed their chicken fingers and bacon cheeseburger, too. The drinks were great and the service was friendly and efficient. After dinner that first night, we walked around Wharfside and did some shopping. I picked up an Island Girl bracelet from Bamboo Studio (probably my favorite jewelry store on the whole island), and my son picked out a collar at St. Johnimals for our new puppy back home. Then we walked down to the beach and watched the sunset, taking pictures and taking in the gorgeous views. Back at the villa we had a night swim under the stars, one of my absolute favorite things to do on St. John. The night air was soft and fragrant and there were a million stars in the sky! It was breathtakingly beautiful. We watched a cruise ship out on the water heading slowly east, all lit up. It looked like they were showing a movie outside on the top deck. We all slept like stones that first night.

Day 2

The next day, Thursday, was our first full day on the island. The kids slept in, but my husband and I had our traditional early-morning iced coffee out on the upper deck of La Papaya. Our little villa ritual is that the first one of us who wakes up brews a pot of coffee, then makes two frosty glasses of iced coffee and brings them out to the deck under the portico outside our bedroom. We sit and relax and just take in the incredible view while listening to the surf down at Hart Bay below us and enjoying the soft breezes. Bliss! That first morning, I also baked my “famous St. John Pina Colada cake,” the only reason I turn the oven on during our vacations to the island. The cake is light, delicious and very island-y, and you only need to sacrifice a little bit of your rum to make it. I make it when we first get to the island and we nibble on it all week long. I highly recommend it. Here’s the recipe:

1 package yellow cake mix
1 package instant vanilla pudding mix
1 14oz can Cream of Coconut, divided in half
½ Cup Rum (I use Cruzan Estate Rum)
1/3 Cup Vegetable Oil
4 eggs
1 small can crushed pineapple, drained
1 small container Cool Whip
½ package sweetened, flaked coconut

Preheat oven to 350. Grease and flour 13 x 9 pan. In bowl, combine cake mix, pudding mix, half can of the Cream of Coconut, rum, oil, and eggs. Beat well. Stir in pineapple. Pour into prepared pan. Bake 45 minutes. Cool for a bit. Poke holes all over cake, almost to bottom, with tines of fork. Pour other half of Cream of Coconut all over surface of cake, letting it seep into cake. Frost cake with Cool Whip, then sprinkle with coconut. Refrigerate leftovers. YUM.


Anyway, after the cake was baked and we finished our morning coffee, my husband and I went for a walk up and down the hills near La Papaya in upper Chocolate Hole. Going up those St. John hills is killer on your calves!! But it was good to get out and walk, anyway. Back at the villa, we found the kids had finally woken up, so we packed cold drinks into the cooler and headed for Maho. We swam and sunned at Maho, which is hands down our favorite beach on the island. We hadn’t rented any snorkel gear yet, but my husband managed to get pictures of a turtle, starfish, and an inhabited conch shell in only four feet of water. After a glorious morning at Maho, we went to Shipwreck Landing for lunch: fish sandwiches for Mom and Dad, and Caesar salads for the kids. Lunch was delicious at Shipwreck and there was a lovely breeze to boot. After lunch, we shopped at the Cocoloba shops, where our son bought a trip journal to write in, and our daughter bought a bracelet. On the way back to the villa, we stopped at Colombo’s for smoothies. Once back at La Papaya, we swam all afternoon in the pool and caught some rays. That evening we went to Candi’s for some fantastic barbecue, pasta salad, peas ‘n’ rice, and ice-cold Presidentes. I love Candi’s barbecue sauce, so smoky/sweet with just a little bite to it. Delicious! After dinner we just hung out at the villa and relaxed.

Day 3

Jost! Now THIS was a fun day. Friday morning we got up early, had coffee and muffins, then headed down to the dock to catch the ferry to Jost Van Dyke. This was our first trip ever to Jost, having been to Tortola and Virgin Gorda on previous trips. Once we cleared customs, we took a fun taxi ride over to Soggy Dollar. The taxi ride was delightfully informative in that classic small-island Caribbean way, with the driver pointing out his cousin’s house, his aunt’s house, his mom sitting on her porch, and other interesting landmarks. Best taxi ride ever! Once at Soggy Dollar, we grabbed some beach chairs, ordered up a few Painkillers, set up on the gorgeous beach under a palm tree, and went into the water. Heaven! White Bay is such a beautiful beach. There were several big catamarans pulling into the bay not far from shore, with all sorts of people swimming in, but thankfully it didn’t feel too crowded. We spent most of the time in the water, but headed down the beach to Seddy’s for lunch. We had delicious chicken quesadillas, chicken Caesar salads, and chicken Alfredo, all very good. We had fun checking out all the T-shirts and messages on the ceiling and walls at One Love, and we wrote our names and the date on a buoy to mark our special day at Jost. After lunch and some more beach time, we met our taxi driver, who gave us a ride to Foxy’s. We spent some time talking to Foxy and were amazed that he knew of our small town of Marblehead, Massachusetts, and even some of our town landmarks. He must have an amazing capacity for remembering details from all the people all over the world who come into the bar and talk of their home bases. Pretty impressive! After Foxy’s, our taxi driver appeared once again and drove us back to the ferry dock, and we headed back to St. John. We all loved Jost Van Dyke and plan to make this day trip again on future visits. Back at the villa, we showered and headed into Cruz Bay for dinner, choosing La Plancha del Mar, another first for us. We loved this place! The food was fantastic: Argentinian steaks for Mom and son, half chicken for daughter, and big ‘ol Rib Eye for Dad, all excellent! I’m a wine geek and am afraid to order “serious” wine on the island because there’s no way to know if it’s been sitting in hot storage on a dock out in the sun, but there was a Chilean Pinot Noir on the menu that actually paired perfectly with our steaks. The red wine was served just a bit too warm, but otherwise the meal was perfect. They do an amazing job at La Plancha del Mar. After dinner, we hit Big Planet for T-shirts, then decided to call it a night and headed back to La Papaya. What a great day!

Day 4

Saturday we all slept in a bit, then after coffee we went to Low Key to rent snorkel gear. We drove out to Salt Pond Beach, another first for us, and spent the rest of the morning swimming and snorkeling. Sadly, a lot of the coral on the left side of the bay was in bad shape. My husband did get to snap some pictures of an octopus, turtles, tons of fish, and a stingray. Once we got out of the water it started to rain, but we huddled around a picnic table under the trees while getting dressed and packing up, and we survived. After Salt Pond and after the rain clouds passed, we went to The Tourist Trap for a nice lunch. We chatted with Larry, Cheryl, and some other very nice transplanted New Englanders who now make St. John their home. Big thumbs up on the food at the Tourist Trap; great nachos, burgers, and hot dogs. And I have to say, the “Drink Right, Keep Left” was the tastiest rum drink I had on the island this trip, and I had SEVERAL different rum concoctions from different island establishments, so I consider myself a good judge on this, trust me. After leaving the Tourist Trap, we headed out toward the East End, which we’d never done on previous trips. Beautiful drive! We stopped at Vie’s for an order of conch fritters and a coconut tart. Very good, and Vie is such a sweet lady. I felt bad because while we were waiting for our order, some other tourists came up and were pretty rude to her. She was very pleasant to them anyway. After driving back to La Papaya, we had some pool time, then Mom and Dad showered and went into Cruz Bay to dine at ZoZo’s, yet another first! We hit Zozo’s right before the sunset, and enjoyed Champagne while watching the sun go down; just beautiful. We had the roasted snapper and the Osso Bucco, and both were outstanding. Back at La Papaya, we had a nice late-night swim under the stars. Another great day in paradise!

Day 5

Sunday morning my husband made us a lovely brunch of Eggs Benedict and Mimosas, which we enjoyed on the deck of La Papaya while taking in the gorgeous views of Chocolate Hole and Rendezvous Bay. We had nothing planned for this day, so we decided to take the car ferry over to St. Thomas to check out the rebuilt Mountain Top, which had burned down awhile back. Mountain Top is now a huge Quonset hut-type of building with pirate mannequins hanging from ropes dangling from the ceiling, and the place is packed with island souvenirs and clothing. Thankfully, the view of Magen’s Bay hasn’t changed that much. Mountain Top is always nostalgic for my husband and I, because when we first came to the Virgin Islands almost 3 decades ago, the Mountain Top experience was just a little building with a thatched hut bar where a guy in a Hawaiian shirt who looked like Benny Hill made the banana daiquiris one or two at a time in one blender. It’s changed so much! And on this trip, two banana daiquiris cost $17. I think back then they were only about $3 or $4 apiece. Sigh. Anyway, most of the shops on St. Thomas were closed because there were no cruise ships in, so we headed back to St. John. It was Food Festival Day! We went into Cruz Bay and walked around, and we shopped a bit, had a rum punch, had some Johnny cakes, and enjoyed the music and people. We ran into John and Sue Brandi, who actually once lived in our hometown, Marblehead, and we introduced ourselves. They are a lovely, gracious couple and we enjoyed chatting with them. Hope the boat’s back in the water! For dinner, we went to the Beach Bar, and the food was as good as ever. Back at the villa, we had a night swim and headed to bed.


Day 6

Monday morning was very cloudy with some rain, so we relaxed at the villa. We went to Deli Grotto (sandwiches for today’s lunch and bagels for tomorrow’s breakfast), then returned the snorkel gear to Low Key. We ate our Deli Grotto sandwiches back at La Papaya; the Pink Cadillac is an awesome sandwich, no matter how you look at it. We played a good game of Monopoly in the afternoon (16-year old son beat us soundly, of course) while waiting out the rain. In the evening, we went to the Parrot Club and played some video blackjack for a while, shopped at St. John Spice and Freebird, then went to the Tap Room for their great Mango Ale and IPA. Back at La Papaya, we cooked up some nachos and artichoke dip, relaxed around the villa, and starting to pack.

Last Day

Tuesday morning we had coffee and bagels for breakfast, finished packing, took a few more pictures around the villa, cleaned up, and then headed out to make the 9:30 am car ferry back to St. Thomas. So sad when you’re on that ferry back to reality! We had a great time and visited a lot of places that we’d somehow never been to before on our previous trips to the island. Still on our To Do list for next time: Honeymoon and Salomon beaches, Cactus on the Blue, and Island Blues.

Thanks for reading! I put together a video of some of the highlights.



<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8RaZyBZLkjE" frameborder="0"></iframe>
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lprof
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Post by lprof »

Nice report and video... very nice indeed!!! Thank you for sharing your fun time.
... no longer a stranger to paradise
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Backtotheislands
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Post by Backtotheislands »

Thanks for the trip report! Loved your slide show!!
Coden
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Post by Coden »

Fantastic TR and great vid...I'm going to watch it again it was so good. Thnx!!
Coden
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Nancie-Pa
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Post by Nancie-Pa »

Wonderful Trip Report! Sounds like you all had a blast! :D
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SOonthebeach
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Post by SOonthebeach »

Loved that video! How did you do that "fade to sunset" right at the end? Very cool. Sounds like it was an awesome trip. Thanks for sharing!
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suzanna945
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Post by suzanna945 »

I used Adobe Premiere Elements to put together the video, and the program has all kinds of 'transitions' you can apply to your photos/videos to run one into the other. That was one of them, but I can't remember which one I used!! :lol:

Thanks for the compliments, everyone!
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SOonthebeach
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Post by SOonthebeach »

Thanks for the tip! I use iMovie and Aperture-I'l look for the right transition next time- great idea!
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ColumbiaSCTraveler
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Post by ColumbiaSCTraveler »

Great trip report, video, AND a recipe! Bonus!!
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Diane
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Post by Diane »

Very nice!
Exit Zero
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Post by Exit Zero »

What a nice trip report - thank You!! - I have to admit I was enticed to read it after you said you had provisioned the villa and were feeding a 16 year old man for $180 ! - but you visited just about every eatery in STJ so I understand.

Sir Foxy Callwood is very well traveled - I have seen or sailed with him in a number of regattas in the NE - including the Gloucester Schooner weekend and in Marblehead so it isn't surprising he knew your neighborhood - he might be the only person who wouldn't even get a raised eyebrow from the old boys at the Eastern YC when he comes into the dining room shoeless! :roll:
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snorkelqueen
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Wow right up the road

Post by snorkelqueen »

hi there. We were two houses up on Rock Ridge Road from June 21 to July 1 ! at Allesandra! I am so sorry we didn't stop by to say hello! Great TR. Hope to post mine soon! Check out drive down Rock Ridge Road On u tube. You will love it!
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greyhoundmom
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Post by greyhoundmom »

Suzi, loved your trip report and slide show. Beautiful villa and family - very well done!
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EagleRayLover
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Post by EagleRayLover »

nice report-thanks for sharing your trip with us. been to visit Forumite friends at that villa and love the pool area and the view. :)
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suzanna945
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Post by suzanna945 »

greyhoundmom wrote:Suzi, loved your trip report and slide show. Beautiful villa and family - very well done!
Thank you very much!
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