Vieques trip report

[liamsaunt]

John and I visited Vieques for five nights recently. Here is a summary with some pictures of our impressions.

Getting There/Getting Around

From San Juan, you have a choice between the ferry ($4/way) or an 8-seater plane (about $100/way). The ferry is a 90 minute taxi ride from the airport, and then approximately one hour boat ride. The plane takes 20 minutes. We opted for the plane and it was fun.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203181890/" title="san juan from the air by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/520 ... cd0b68.jpg" width="500" height="328" alt="san juan from the air"></a>

If you are on the correct side of the plane you get a cool view of the huge waterfalls in what I am guessing must be the El Yunque rainforest on Puerto Rico, and a good view of Vieques on the approach:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202587435/" title="viequies from the air by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/520 ... f9894e.jpg" width="500" height="317" alt="viequies from the air"></a>

Once you are on Vieques, you absolutely need a jeep. We used Maritza’s Car Rental. They were excellent. We decided we wanted our jeep a day earlier than we had reserved. The concierge phoned them, and within 10 minutes someone was at the W to bring us over to get the car. They gave us a mint condition Jeep Cherokee for $75/day. This car ran great and had good storage for all our gear. When we returned it, there were no protracted examinations of the vehicle or sand/mud charges. They also gave us a ride back to the W. I would definitely recommend this company.

Staying there

We opted to stay at the W. The W is lovely—really nicely decorated, and the staff is wonderful. The rooms are well equipped and the beds are great. The grounds are gorgeous. If you like the “resort feel,” you would probably like the W very much. Here is the view from our room:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202589587/" title="pool view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/520 ... 3a38f7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="pool view"></a>

And at night:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202615137/" title="w pool by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/520 ... 5c316d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="w pool"></a>

The pool is spectacular—a triple level infinity-edge pool. The middle level has floats that you can sit on and read. There are cabanas around it which you can reserve that have TVs and ipod docks. Poolside food and cocktail service is available. The scene at the W is definitely centered around the pool. On the rare times we went to the W beach (the non-nude one!), John and I were always alone. There is music piped in everywhere—to the beach, the main resort spaces, etc. For me personally, I would have preferred to hear the sound of the ocean over the poolside DJ.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203185850/" title="whisper beach by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/520 ... 91eee0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="whisper beach"></a>

Some nitpicking also—there is a resort fee of $60/day. This covers your rental of snorkel gear and use of kayaks, as well as the pool facilities (duh), and the gym. Things it does NOT cover: if you want a cooler, $10/day. If you want a chair to take to the beach, $10/day. Umbrella? $15/day. It also does NOT cover gratuities to the hotel staff. I don’t mind paying extra $$ on vacation, but some of these charges were annoying. I guess I am comparing to Caneel and maybe that is not fair, but so be it.

This was our favorite spot to relax with a cocktail:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202810631/" title="w veranda by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/520 ... b1c31e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="w veranda"></a>

We were there every day in time to grab a drink and eventually head over to the point for the sunset:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202588467/" title="cocktails by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/520 ... a9318e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="cocktails"></a>

Cocktails run $15-20 at the W. You have been warned!

There are beautiful sunset views from the W:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203181440/" title="Saturday sunset 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/520 ... 02df65.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Saturday sunset 2"></a>


The Beaches

The North Shore was extremely rough and unswimmable during our stay. This included the beaches at the W. However, we visited many of the South Shore beaches. All were beautiful, many were deserted. Like St. John, there are no facilities. You need to bring in your food and drink, chairs and beach equipment etc. Some of the beaches do have gazeboes, which provide shade and a place to set up your cooler/grill. For the most part, the roads to the beaches are in good shape. The Camp Garcia road is now smooth gravel (I think this is a recent development) unless you are visiting some of the more “off the beaten track” beaches. Here is a rundown of the beaches we visited:

Blue Beach/Bahia Los Chivos. This is a beautiful, long beach with soft sand. Definitely much bigger than anything you’ll find on St. John. There is a cay at the far left of the beach with some decent snorkeling around the back. We wanted to snorkel the cay so went to the furthest point which is a little rocky.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203199384/" title="bb far side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/520 ... c118bb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="bb far side"></a>

This is looking back at some of the rest of Blue Beach—it’s so big it does not fit in the frame!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203198534/" title="bb towards other side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5010/520 ... 126ce8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="bb towards other side"></a>

Secret Beach/Pata Prieta. Reached via a dirt road and then a short steep walking path:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202792861/" title="secret beach path by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/520 ... 2e4eda.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="secret beach path"></a>

there is OK snorkeling on both sides and just a few shady nooks you can tuck into with a book. This beach reminded me a lot of Salt Pond Bay in its size and the appearance of the beach:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202800095/" title="secret beach seaweed by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/520 ... 447604.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="secret beach seaweed"></a>

My all time favorite, Red Beach/Playa Caracas.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203211912/" title="red beach by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/520 ... 4d7eea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach"></a>

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! This beach rivals Trunk Bay for beauty in my opinion. We visited here three times. Soft sand, smooth bottom beach with the best snorkeling we found on both sides. This beach is popular with locals on the weekends, but it never got crowded. As at Blue Beach, there are gazeboes here. Obligatory trip report toe picture:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202618013/" title="red beach toes by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/520 ... fc982f.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="red beach toes"></a>

Sun Bay. This huge beach has a $2 admission fee.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202607275/" title="red beach long view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/520 ... 3bbb58.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach long view"></a>

There is food at this beach, somewhere. We did not go looking for it. There are lots of palm trees and shade here, and I found a ton of sea glass. Of all the beaches we visited, this was where the water was murkiest (obviously still settling from the heavy rains).

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203203210/" title="sun bay palms by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/520 ... 299e3c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="sun bay palms"></a>

Orchid Beach/Playa Plata. The road to get here will remind you of Lameshur, muddy, pitted, and rocky. But the reward is a beautiful curved beach with sparkling water and a soft sandy bottom, perfect for lazing away and reading books in the sun.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202803857/" title="orchid beach left side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1400/520 ... fa0f7f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="orchid beach left side"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202803215/" title="boat launch by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/520 ... a3685b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="boat launch"></a>


The Creatures, Above and Below the Sea

One definite difference from St. John—no no-see-ums! Maybe it was the time of year, maybe it was the wind, but all of the beaches were no-see-um free. I got four mosquito bites total over the course of this trip. I get eaten alive on St. John so this was a pleasant change.

St. John has donkeys on the side of the road, on Vieques, you will see lots of horses. They are beautiful creatures.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202788481/" title="baby horse with crane by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/520 ... d0c664.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="baby horse with crane"></a>

The snorkeling cannot hold a candle to St. John. Snorkeling is my favorite island activity, and I just did not find the variety of undersea creatures that I am used to seeing on St. John. Here are a couple of snorkeling highlights:

Porcupinefish

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202794799/" title="secret beach puff by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/520 ... ec7681.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="secret beach puff"></a>

Squid

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203222848/" title="red beach squid2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/520 ... ca9783.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach squid2"></a>

Anenome

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203217290/" title="red beach anenome by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/520 ... e65520.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach anenome"></a>

Hermit crab

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203396278/" title="secret beach hermit crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/520 ... 6ef5d1.jpg" width="500" height="396" alt="secret beach hermit crab"></a>

Fan corals

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203220330/" title="red beach coral forest by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/520 ... 4b15d4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach coral forest"></a>

Sea rods (I think)


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203218862/" title="red beach finger coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5206/520 ... bab042.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="red beach finger coral"></a>

The Food

I know I usually do in-depth restaurant reviews, but we did a lot of different eating this trip. Basically, I had a hard time finding out information about the upscale places on the island, and after the sensory overload of the W I just decided that I did not feel like spending my vacation eating at what Calvin Trillin dubbed “La Maison de la Casa House—Continental Cuisine.” So, we took a different route. If we were hungry, and saw someone cooking something that smelled good on the side of the road, we stopped and ate some. We had arepas, empanadas, pinchos, some chicken that was cooked on a big spit thing, tacos, etc. Basically street food. I did not take any food pictures except for this one plate of food that we bought back to the hotel. We bought it at a truck called Sol Food that is located at the entrance to the Camp Garcia road. Cost of this plate? $10.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5203404328/" title="sol food dinner by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/520 ... 8be1e6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="sol food dinner"></a>

We did eat at MiX on the Beach a couple of times since it was right there at the W. The food was good—we had lots of fish—but very buttery! Prices at MiX are similar to the upscale places on St. John. Another place we ate at that was tasty was in downtown Esperanza—I think it was called Trade Winds. It’s a very casual place, and the food was good.


Overall impressions

Vieques is a lovely island. The people are friendly. The beaches are beautiful, the water is clear. The main roads are good (I understand some of the roads to the villas are…not so good). There is good local food, and the island is charming. If you like beach resorts, the W just might be right up your alley. Would John and I come back to Vieques? Probably. I really would like to see the Biobay and we were there during the full moon, so couldn’t go this time.

But it does not even come close to St. John for us. Nothing is better than St. John’s beautiful white sand beaches, fantastic snorkeling, and opportunities for relaxation and discovery. I’m glad we visited, but it does not take St. John’s place. Vieques, see you again sometime. St. John, see you in the spring!


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5202807357/" title="sol food sign by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/520 ... c0f37a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="sol food sign"></a>

[iowaguy]

Thanks for the report, Becky!

I have been curious about Vieques for some time, so it was fun to read. How did the water clarity/color of the water compare to St. John? I am a little obsessed with clear blue water, and when I visited San Juan, the water was nothing like STJ (though I suspect Vieques is much different).

--Jim

P.S. I am a big Calvin Trillin fan from way back so I enjoyed your reference.

[Pickle]

Your trip reports are always a real pleasure to read. They always have great photos, have your concise thoughts on things, and they are very informative.

Can I ask you a question regarding the snorkeling? It doesn't seem to compare to the snorkeling around St. John. Is it because less varieties of sea life can be found or there is less sea life overall? My favorite island activity is snorkeling, too. I get most curious about that subject.

Thank you so much for sharing your trip!

[lprof]

Thanks for another fun read, fine photos, and introduction to another intriging island.

[Diana2]

Thanks for the Vieques report. We've thought about this island and it's very helpful to have your experience and comparison. Would you go back to The W and how did the room rates compare with Caneel?

[liamsaunt]

Jim I noticed more sediment in the water while snorkeling than I am used to on St. John, but Vieques suffered the same terrible rains that St. John recently had, and so I don't think the water had settled yet. Overall, I would say that the water is as clear and ble as St. John, with the exception of Sun Bay.

Pickle, there was definitely less sea life--just not a lot of fish. I don't know why. The coral was healthy and plentiful.

Diana, the W was very nice. The things I liked about it outweighed my dislikes. I would stay there again for a short trip. We did some poking around with the thought of coming back and renting a house. Supplies are harder to come by than on St. John. The rate for the W is much less than Caneel.

[designbyroe]

Thanks Becky......love the pics....
The beaches look gorgeous. I have been to Vieques once when I lived on STJ when my friend moved over there.

[Greenskeeper]

Thanks for the trip report and photos. The W being less than Caneel makes it an interesting option for a short trip.

[Bigcheeze]

TY 4 the TR...Ouch about the cocktail prices. I'd have to BYOR

[sea-nile]

Great report! Looks like a fun time.

[jmq]

Real nice job as usual. Thanks for the time and effort.

Did you talk to any folks there who have done the bio-bay tour? Did you consider planning your trip there around the cycle of the moon that coincides with that phenomena?

[linne]

A great report as usual and fantastic pictures. And I have learned about another place in the world. I didn't know Vieque and had to google it.

I think the beaches on the island looked very beautiful, but I missed a picture, which could convince me that Read Beach can rival Trunk Bay.

Linne

[RickG]

I've always been curious about this island, especially with Gerald Singer's beautiful photos. Thanks for the TR, maybe one day. It really is hard to skip STJ to go somewhere else.

Cheers, RickG