17 more days in paradise, part two

[liamsaunt]

Part one here: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... hp?t=13060

Day six. Deluge! Woke up at 7 AM to the sound of pouring rain. Once I could get out of the sleeping pod, I headed over and baked biscuits with honey butter for breakfast. As we were finishing the gardeners arrived, so we braved the gray skies and headed to the beach. First stop: Gibney.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713804431/" title="Gibney main view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2481/371 ... 587b25.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Gibney main view"></a>

We walked down to the far left side, walked by some dead chickens (must have been the work of the dog I met here in May). Right after we arrived, we heard the LOUDEST drumming noises coming, I think, from the Gibney house. It was super loud, and happened about four times. Not sure what that was all about. We settled in with our books for a while, but then the skies opened again and it started to thunder, so we gave up and packed the car. Back to the house! The sun came out briefly, while I was making lunch (chicken panini), which I planned to serve poolside:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713794231/" title="Devers rainbow missed by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3459/371 ... 212368.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Devers rainbow missed"></a>

but right after I got everything set up, it started to rain again and this time there was lightning. Back inside!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714719312/" title="Vida de Mar cihicken panini by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/371 ... 74c45a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar cihicken panini"></a>


The lightning and thunder continued all afternoon. In the midst of these storms we saw a boat anchor in the bay during a lull. They dropped off both snorkelers and divers, only to have a squall move in 15 minutes later. The snorkelers had to be picked up by the boat because it was too rough for them to swim back to where it was anchored. Why would you snorkel on a thundery day? Just one of those things that makes me wonder…

We decided to head into town for dinner, and decided on the Lime Inn. Yum. Oh very, very yum! The appetizers were nothing special, but I had this outstanding whole blackened yellowtail snapper for my main course. It was SO delicious. The rub was just spicy enough, and the flesh was sweet and tender. I ate the whole thing! John had a grilled carribean lobster that he was very happy with. Plus, it was cheap! Yay for Lime Inn! I highly recommend this place. The host (owner, I think?) is really friendly too.

Day seven: Woke up at 7 AM. Deluge again! Oh well, back to sleep. I went over to the main pod to pack for the beach, and FOUND THE JEEP KEY! You’d never guess where it was. Somehow, it got inside the foam cover that goes over the lens glass for the ikolite underwater housing. I looked down into the housing to lock in the camera and saw the keys sitting there! I could not believe it! They must have worked their way in there on the walk back from Devers Bay the afternoon we snorkeled there. At least they did not turn out to be somewhere obvious. Then I would have felt REALLY stupid.

The rain finally stopped and we headed to the beach. We started at Haulover North, with plans to snorkel Haulover South next, and hit the mangroves on the way back. The snorkeling is excellent at Haulover North! The coral looks like it is getting healthier, and the water is teeming with all kinds of fish.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714635978/" title="Haulover North coral forest by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/371 ... b6c0ae.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Haulover North coral forest"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713825773/" title="Haulover North flamingo tounge best by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3426/371 ... 2683fc.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Haulover North flamingo tounge best"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714636472/" title="Haulover North fan coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3515/371 ... e69baf.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Haulover North fan coral"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714636298/" title="Haulover North damselfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/371 ... 7504c9.jpg" width="425" height="500" alt="Haulover North damselfish"></a>

I made the first octopus sighting of the trip.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713826973/" title="Haulover North octopus 13 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3484/371 ... cd7555.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Haulover North octopus 13"></a>

He was coming out of its cave, and swam across the coral to go in on the other side. We went around the other side to investigate, only to find that there were two octopuses in the cave! Super cool!


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714639434/" title="Haulover North octopus pair in cave by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3466/371 ... 873401.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Haulover North octopus pair in cave"></a>

More swimming along, when I felt a sting on my head. I put my arm up to investigate and got stung all over my arm! Some kind of microscopic jelly was on the warpath! OW!! I went flying out of the water, along with just about everyone else. The jellies were equal opportunity attackers I guess. I got about 40 welts on my arm and three on my head. John was stung on his back, foot, and hand. The welts were raising up off my skin and really stinging, so we decided to drive to Lily’s for some vinegar and ibuprofen. Both helped a bit.

We headed over to Miss Lucy’s for lunch.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714655392/" title="Miss Lucys sign 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2608/371 ... e60a7b.jpg" width="500" height="403" alt="Miss Lucys sign 3"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713803593/" title="Friis Bay 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2576/371 ... 995f87.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Friis Bay 3"></a>

John had the Friis Bay platter and I had the crunch fish sandwich.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713842633/" title="Miss Lucys crunch fish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2667/371 ... 99b88b.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Miss Lucys crunch fish "></a>

Both were tasty and left lots of leftovers for another meal.

Not to be deterred by the earlier jellyfish stings, we headed to Great Lameshur. John said that he wanted to try and snorkel to Tektite from the shore at Great Lameshur, and I thought it might be interesting. What a great snorkel! On the way to Donkey Bight we found spotted eagle rays:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713818071/" title="Great Lameshur spotted eagle ray 10 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3490/371 ... 3620fd.jpg" width="500" height="377" alt="Great Lameshur spotted eagle ray 10"></a>

trunkfish, schools of tang:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713820131/" title="Great Lameshur tang by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2601/371 ... e6e57a.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="Great Lameshur tang"></a>

Eels:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713812027/" title="Great Lameshur moray 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/371 ... ea86d2.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Great Lameshur moray 3"></a>

Blue chromis:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714620320/" title="Great Lameshur blue chromis by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2508/371 ... 438daa.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="Great Lameshur blue chromis"></a>

loads of snappers, queen triggerfish (one of my favorites), and lots of angelfish.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714625870/" title="Great Lameshur queen angelfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/371 ... 6a8a78.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Great Lameshur queen angelfish"></a>

Scrawled filefish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713815695/" title="Great Lameshur scrawled filefish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2483/371 ... 2b6e00.jpg" width="500" height="321" alt="Great Lameshur scrawled filefish"></a>

Grouper:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713812937/" title="Great Lameshur nassau grouper 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2534/371 ... 7e4e5f.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="Great Lameshur nassau grouper 2"></a>

Anenome:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714617702/" title="Great Lameshur anenome by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2554/371 ... 0c7cfc.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Great Lameshur anenome"></a>

There was not much to see between Donkey Bight and Tektite, but once we got to Tektite we enjoyed the various corals and sponges growing on the cave walls, found two turtles:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713877299/" title="Tektite turtle by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/371 ... c6b214.jpg" width="500" height="276" alt="Tektite turtle"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713871383/" title="Tektite baby turtle 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2634/371 ... 3a88e2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Tektite baby turtle 2"></a>

and schools of smaller fish.

Saw much of the same on the way back. Once we passed Donkey Bight we went out towards the turtle grass, hoping to find another eagle ray. We did not find a ray, but we did find a HUGE school of larger fish, coiling tightly in a circle. Large mutton snapper and very excited (and a little aggressive) barracuda were waiting at the edges of the school. A little careful investigation revealed the cause of all of the excitement: a shark was looping below the fish, forcing them into a tighter school.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713808093/" title="Great Lameshur blacktip shark closeup by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2632/371 ... 951340.jpg" width="500" height="227" alt="Great Lameshur blacktip shark closeup"></a>

Obviously, a feeding was imminent, so we got the heck out of dodge!

This was truly one of the must exciting snorkels we have experienced.

We stopped in town on the way back to the house and bought a tuna from one of the charter boats for dinner. We grilled that up and served it on a bed of spinach and corn fricassee. Another terrific day in paradise!

Day eight. We tried sleeping with the louvers open again, but the BIRD OF DOOM had us up before the sun. That’s it, it is AC for the rest of the trip! Today’s plan was to snorkel Waterlemon.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713830339/" title="Leinster Bevky by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2567/371 ... ff73f9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Leinster Bevky"></a>

We got there pretty early so I was surprised by the number of people who were already there. It was low tide and must have been the right phase of the moon too, because there was absolutely no current. Snorkeling was a complete breeze all the way around. First sighting was a giant barracuda with a whole school of little fish under him. No turtles, which is unusual. The coral looked really good.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714735272/" title="Waterlemon sargaent majors by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3532/371 ... 808db9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Waterlemon sargaent majors"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714731668/" title="Waterlemon brain and other coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2529/371 ... 46159d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Waterlemon brain and other coral"></a>

School of blue tang:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714731386/" title="Waterlemon blue tang school by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2639/371 ... af30df.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Waterlemon blue tang school"></a>

parrotfish, snappers, chubs, flamingo tounges:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713922701/" title="Waterlemon double flamingo tounge by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3203/371 ... 0ba9de.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Waterlemon double flamingo tounge"></a>

trumpetfish. No starfish though.

Back to Vida for lunch. Cheeseburger for John:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714723020/" title="Vida de Mar hamburger by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3469/371 ... 3ccdea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar hamburger"></a>

turkey Panini for me. Lots leftover.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714730338/" title="Vida de Mar turkey panini by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3212/371 ... ab862d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar turkey panini"></a>

Pool deck view:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714724494/" title="Vida de Mar long view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3083/371 ... b0c3bc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar long view"></a>

We spent the afternoon in the pool:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714722256/" title="Vida de Mar floating in pool by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3499/371 ... a27360.jpg" width="500" height="478" alt="Vida de Mar floating in pool"></a>

and then headed down for another late afternoon snorkel at Devers.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713791621/" title="Devers left side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/371 ... d531aa.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Devers left side"></a>

Best sighting this time was a HUGE lobster.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713786155/" title="devers bay lobster by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/371 ... c5cec1.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="devers bay lobster"></a>


That guy looked like he could be 5 lbs! Back to the house for more pool time and dinner: I made a fresh batch of the blackstrap shrimp and just reheated the leftovers from Miss Lucy’s.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714718508/" title="Vida de Mar blackstrap shrimp second time by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/371 ... 5455a5.jpg" width="500" height="341" alt="Vida de Mar blackstrap shrimp second time"></a>

Cocktail:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713917599/" title="Vida de Mar red lion by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2428/371 ... 197f48.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Vida de Mar red lion"></a>

Day nine: Beach day! We stopped at the new Dolphin gourmet market for ice, fruit, water, and a bottle of wine. None of the beer or wine had prices on it. We brought the wine bottle up to the counter, and the clerk asked us how much it usually sold for. We were not sure, so said $10, and that it what she charged us. I should have picked put something nicer! Next stop was Deli Grotto for a Pink Cadillac, some curried chicken salad, black bean salad, and iced coffee. We poured the wine in a plastic bottle, packed and iced the cooler, and headed to Trunk Bay.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713881499/" title="Trunk Bay iverlook by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3492/371 ... a280da.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Trunk Bay iverlook"></a>

What a beautiful day—sunny and warm. We hauled all of our gear WAY down to the left side of the beach in the hopes of avoiding crowds. It worked! We pretty much had the area to ourselves, even though the beach got quite crowded. Everyone congregates down by the lifeguard stands. It’s worth taking the time to walk a little further if you want privacy.

The snorkeling around the cay was good. It starts out all rubbly and not much to see, but further out the coral is healthy and there are tons of fish. We found snappers, tang, loads of parrotfish, puddingwife:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713895011/" title="Trunk puddingwife 6 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2577/371 ... b65217.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Trunk puddingwife 6"></a>

flamingo tounge:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714702382/" title="trunk flamingo tounge 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/371 ... cee793.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk flamingo tounge 2"></a>

Red lip blenny:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713892519/" title="Trunk goby by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2658/371 ... 199cf6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Trunk goby"></a>

trunkfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713896201/" title="Trunk smooth trunkfish 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3605/371 ... b16f88.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Trunk smooth trunkfish 3"></a>

squirrelfish:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713896509/" title="trunk squirrelfish with chiton by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2645/371 ... e0823d.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="trunk squirrelfish with chiton"></a>

Sponges:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713887873/" title="trunk blue sponge by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2646/371 ... ea8d98.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk blue sponge"></a>

Parrotfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714693526/" title="trunk bay parrotfish chomping by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/371 ... b66ae1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk bay parrotfish chomping"></a>

Lots of booktime and then Deli Grotto lunch, yum! We spent the afternoon swimming in the beautiful water, all by ourselves.

At the end of the day a wedding set up by the rocks at the end of the beach. The bride had the most beautiful beach wedding dress I have ever seen. It was very light and flowy. The bottom started out dark blue, then light blue, to white. It was strapless and just perfect for a beach wedding. Unfortunately it started to rain right when their ceremony began.

Back to the villa for pooltime and then in to town for dinner at Rhumblines. We were seated on the patio area in the front of the restaurant. It started to rain again while we were there and I got completely soaked! Just water, it was OK. We had some of the pupu items: chicken satay, chicken cabbage parcels, cornmeal cilantro shimp (our favorite), bbq shrimp, spring rolls. John had the tuna and I had the BBQ prawns. The tuna was excellent (spicy), the sauce on the prawns was a little thick but otherwise pretty good. It was a nice meal.

Day 10. We decided to spend the day off the beach today since we had so much sun yesterday. Instead, we went into town and did a little shopping (I got this really pretty linen skirt at Bamboula—love that store), visited with Ruth and Ron for a bit.

We went back to the villa for lunch and ate all the Deli Grotto leftovers (I especially liked the black bean salad). Then we spent the afternoon in the pool. We set up the pool volleyball set but playing with two people turned out pretty pathetic. We needed to invite some friends over!

Dinner was just some grilled steak and chicken. More pooltime and booktime. Just a very relaxing day.

[AnyTing]

Great snorkeling shots! That octopus is awesome!

[PA Girl]

Great snorkeling shots! That octopus is awesome!

A big second to the octopus picture!

We always enjoy the whole grilled snapper at Lime Inn.

[flip-flop]

Your underwater pictures are almost unbelievable! Very cool stuff.

I concur about Lime Inn. After writing them off after a few mediocre meals, my mom and I went there one evening on this trip. It was packed, and I think Saturday (or maybe Friday) night, we had no reservation and the really nice host fit us in. The waitress was great and the meal was awesome!

[sea-nile]

Awesome pictures! I will be sut to get to Haulover North next time.

[Pia]

Fantastic report Becky thank you so much.

The picture of the octopus is fantastic - any chance you could send it to me so I might get it professionally printed and frame it/canvas it for my home - I'll pay ya

Pia

[Mary L]

Love the octopus picture. What kind of camera did you use?

I'm really enjoying your trip report.

[silverheels]

Another fantastic trip report and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing.

[nothintolose]

Becky - am enjoying your reports (as usual). Wish we would have done the Lameshur snorkel the way you did it rather than bouldering to Donkey Bite then entering.

We were fortunate enough to see that HUGE A$$ barracuda you mentioned at Waterlemon...talk about freaky but awesome.

Your food pics of the stuff you made all look like they are from restaurants! You should see our food porn (if we have any), you would die laughing.

[LMG]

LOVE your reports, Becky! And your underwater shots are just a pleasure to look at. Thanks so much for sharing! It was great to spend some time with you guys again.

[jmq]

Underwater shots are great - are those with the new camera and/or some with flash?

[teragram]

I'll third or fourth the comments about the octopus shot. I've never seen anything like it!

So we weren't the only ones not to see any starfish at Waterlemon. Must have been a bad week!

[jayseadee]

Sorry to be repetitive, but your underwater shots are really great.

Is this the new camera?

How far is the snorkel to Tektite? Sounds interesting.

Yayyy for finding the keys!

[RickG]

I KNEW you would find the keys. I've always been tempted to tie a long ribbon to the keys. We've been lucky so far, but its the kind of thing I worry about all trip.

Cheers, RickG

[waterguy]

Great report. I'm always ready for a good game of volley ball you could of called