17 more days in paradise, part one

Travel discussion for St. John
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liamsaunt
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:08 pm

17 more days in paradise, part one

Post by liamsaunt »

Day one started like it always does. Not enough sleep, too many bags. Some things never change! Flights were fine. We connected through Charlotte and the Charlotte-STT leg was oversold. By the time we boarded, they were offering $800 in flight vouchers, hotel and meals, and a ticket in first class the next morning. Not for us! It was time to go to St. John and we would not be denied!

We shared the first Red Stripe of the trip while waiting (and waiting) for the bags to arrive. They finally came along and we got in a taxi. Next time I am going to be more organized and arrange for a private taxi to pick us up. We had to wait a while for the taxi to fill, which would not have been a problem except for the other folks in the cab, who were very, very anxious to get moving and they just would not stop complaining! They were wound really tight. John eyed them and said “someone REALLY needs a vacation!” We eventually got on our way and made the 5 PM ferry with moments to spare. The ride over was bumpy and fun!

Our rental agency, Catered To, met us at the ferry dock. They had picked up the keys to our jeep at St. John Car Rental for us, so we were able to go right to the villa we rented, Vida de Mar on Devers Bay.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714728504/" title="Vida de Mar sign by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/371 ... 79bcbc.jpg" width="500" height="395" alt="Vida de Mar sign"></a>

I’ll do a separate review for the house. For now, I will just say that we were very pleased, the views are good, and the pool is really great!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714729958/" title="Vida de Mar trellis by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/371 ... 9ed26b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Vida de Mar trellis"></a>

Vida de Mar from the water:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714730692/" title="vida de nar ocean view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/371 ... b54dcd.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="vida de nar ocean view"></a>

After our tour of the house, we headed to Starfish Market/Gourmet Market to provision up what we needed to supplement the food I brought down. We split up—John went wine shopping and I went food shopping. The prices seemed higher than when we were here in January—not sure why! John said the wine was definitely more expensive. Hmm…

Back to the house. At this point we were operating on three hours of sleep and were completely exhausted. I just made some simple pasta—we were too tired to eat out and too tired to cook anything more exciting than that. We did some stargazing by the pool and then went to bed, leaving the louvers open to let the sounds of the frogs and the insects lull us to sleep.

Day two: I was up early, John slept til about 8:30. We headed out on the North Shore Road with no particular destination in mind. We ended up at Francis.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714611522/" title="francis bay by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2642/371 ... 649408.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis bay"></a>

Since the beach was not crowded, we decided to set up on the left side, since we’d never snorkeled the left side before. This turned out to be a mistake. We were soon joined by a crowd of obnoxious, intoxicated (at 10 AM!), rude ladies. They were shouting and making really crude conversation. Ugh. Into the water to see what we could find.

Not too much, actually. The right side is much better. We did find some schools of small fish and a coney. Spotfin butterflyfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713799483/" title="four eyed butterflyfish 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3098/371 ... f67718.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="four eyed butterflyfish 2"></a>

If you go around the rocks there is a small beach there that you might have to yourself. While we were visiting, some kids walked over from Little Maho. One guy said “Whoa, dude, is this, like, Baby Maho or something?” Made us laugh.

Back on the beach, the situation with the “ladies” had not improved, so we decided to leave. We headed into Coral Bay with the intention of snorkeling Little Lameshur, but got waylaid by the prospect of mahi sandwiches at Shipwreck Landing. I tried a daiquiri made from local soursops…interesting. The mahi was good.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714680502/" title="shipwreck landing soursop martini by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2499/371 ... cf356e.jpg" width="483" height="500" alt="shipwreck landing soursop martini"></a>


As we were leaving Shipwreck, a jeep pulled in next to us. I could not help but notice that there was a tree impaled on the back of the jeep. It was about 8 feet long, and somehow jammed into the spare tire that hangs on the back. The trunk came all the way down and was dragging on the ground. I told the driver that he had a tree stuck to his car, and he looked at me like I had two heads! OK, I guess it is an odd thing to say, but it was TRUE! Then, he went around back, looked at the tree, gave me a DIRTY LOOK, and went into the restaurant! Sheesh, it’s not like I put it there! At this point, I had had quite enough of other people for the rest of the day.

We decided that we were (obviously) still too tired from traveling, so we headed back to the mothership, aka Vida de Mar. We spent the rest of the day and evening lounging and swimming in the pool. At some point I made dinner—bacon wrapped lemon marinated chicken with an avocado dip, and a salad.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713908553/" title="vida de mar chix with avocado by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3460/371 ... c106df.jpg" width="500" height="409" alt="vida de mar chix with avocado"></a>

More swimming until it was time to sleep.

Day three. I was up early, early! Saw the sunrise. John slept in a little more. When he got up he said that he had been having problems sleeping with the louvers open—the bird of doom (aka pearly eyed thrasher) kept waking him up. We reluctantly decided to start running the AC in the bedroom to combat the bird noise. BOO air conditioning. After a stop at Baked in the Sun to get some of their decadent frozen coffee slushies, we decided to go to Maho.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714644072/" title="Maho Beach 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2466/371 ... 25d3ea.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Maho Beach 2"></a>

We got a great spot with some shade right where we parked our jeep and set up. We snorkeled the left side first. Saw lots of cool little fish, a coney, parrotfish, and groupers. If you go all the way out to the point, there is some beautiful fan coral to look at.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713840305/" title="maho purple fan coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3460/371 ... 50d42b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho purple fan coral"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713834729/" title="maho fan coral 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2424/371 ... f90d76.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho fan coral 2"></a>


Back to the beach for booktime and lunch (leftovers from last night). After a few hours we snorkeled the right side of Maho all the way around the point to Little Maho. Sightings included three barracuda, one huge, one with some kind of wound on his flank.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713840993/" title="maho right side wounded parracuda by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3434/371 ... 210dfe.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho right side wounded parracuda"></a>


Loads of angelfish, slate pencil urchins, strange snake-like eel hiding in the rocks, a huge hermit crab.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N ... 673/"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/371 ... aef8e8.jpg" width="500" height="481"></a>

We spent so much time out snorkeling that we both got sunburned, despite our spf 60 cream.

Back to the house for more pool time and dinner: the BEST shrimp recipe—with a blackstrap rum glaze on sugar cane skewers. More stargazing, and bed.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714718730/" title="Vida de Mar blackstrap shrimp with veggie stir fry by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3426/371 ... 6bb278.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar blackstrap shrimp with veggie stir fry"></a>

Day four: We declared this a lazy day, to recover from our sunburns. Day started out cloudy. John got up around 9 and I made eggs benedict.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714721912/" title="Vida de mar eggs benedict broken tolk by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2644/371 ... 2611ab.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de mar eggs benedict broken tolk"></a>

We spent the morning just hanging around the house, reading, playing with our new camera. 11:15 and still in PJs, it looks like villa gravity is taking over!

But no! We get a second wind and head out. Cinnamon Bay. It’s Sunday and tons of locals are here. I recognize lots of them by sight—people that have waited on us in shops and restaurants, property developers, that kid that makes all the St. John videos on youtube… There are good looking ladies playing bocce and better looking young men playing beach volleyball and paddle surfing. Everybody is having lots of fun.

After a couple hours of reading and sunning, we headed in to snorkel. Snorkeling around the cay was pretty good. Decent coral and the usual fish suspects.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713777583/" title="Cinnamon jacks 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2519/371 ... 30fe62.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Cinnamon jacks 2"></a>

Nothing particularly outstanding until we come around the far side of the cay and encounter a young nurse shark motoring towards us, heading for the deeper water. That was pretty cool.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714590536/" title="Cinnamon nurse shark 6 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2488/371 ... a551da.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="Cinnamon nurse shark 6"></a>


We ate leftovers from last night for lunch and then spent the whole afternoon just swimming in the beautiful warm water. Around 4 PM we headed back to the house. The choice was between the forum gathering and snorkeling Devers Bay, and Devers won.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714606270/" title="devers right side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2580/371 ... 507389.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="devers right side"></a>

Tidal pool:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713796645/" title="Devers tidal pool by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3515/371 ... 829260.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Devers tidal pool"></a>

The water is really quite deep here and the surf is somewhat strong. Coming back from Chocolate Hole there is a current you have to swim against too. Visibility was OK. There are huge rock boulders to swim around and through. We did find a turtle, a huge porcupinefish, tarpon, and a big hermit in a conch. Filefish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714610522/" title="filefish 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/371 ... 88b873.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="filefish 2"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714608344/" title="devers urchin and worms by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2566/371 ... 9d0b33.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="devers urchin and worms"></a>

Grilled some chicken for dinner and sautéed some summer squash.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714723402/" title="Vida de Mar honey bbq chicken by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/371 ... fb2ebc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de Mar honey bbq chicken"></a>

Day five. I slept until 9:15, John until 10:30. He woke up really not feeling well from the sun exposure. It would have been great to make this a villa gravity day but the housekeeper was coming so we needed to leave. Except…ARGH! Where are the keys to the jeep!?? I spent two hours looking for them to no avail. I KNOW they are in the house, because WE are in the house, and the jeep is here! What the heck! I finally gave in and called St. John Car Rental for a replacement key. They brought one to the house, and told us that if we did not find the missing key the charge was $200. YIKES!

New keys in hand, we headed out to Coral Bay for lunch at Miss Lucys. But, WAIT! Miss Lucy;s is CLOSED!! AAAGH, it is turning into one of THOSE days. Backtrack to Aqua Bistro where we had some OK mahi sandwiches.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713745435/" title="Aqua Bistro mahi sandwich by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/371 ... 6253cc.jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="Aqua Bistro mahi sandwich"></a>

We both didn’t want to snorkel because of the sun we got, so headed back to the house in hopes that the housekeeper was gone. She was. Yay! Villa gravity took over at this point and we just spent the rest of the day and evening swimming in the pool and reading books in the shade. Grilled steak for John, made salad for dinner, and went to bed early.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
Sarah.01
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:37 am

Post by Sarah.01 »

Your wonderful pictures make me want to go back there again. :)
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Taghan
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Location: Camden, ME

Post by Taghan »

Love the pics and great TR! Ok, are you willing to give up the goods and give out the shrimp recipe? It looks mouth watering good!
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augie
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Post by augie »

OK - I didn't really need to see your pictures and read your account to be jealous (the thread title alone was sufficient on that account), but I did, and now I am!

Thanks - looking forward to more of the torture! :wink:
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Xislandgirl
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Location: Slightly left of center

Post by Xislandgirl »

i think by the time I get to the 17th day, I will officially hate you :lol:
It is a great report so far and I am sooooo jealous you had 17 days on island
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PA Girl
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Post by PA Girl »

Why no picture of the Jeep tree? :)

Can't wait for the next installment!
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RickG
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Location: Coral Bay, St. John

Post by RickG »

Great start - love the detail. Why am I hungry? Time for lunch.

I'm looking forward to your villa review; there hasn't been a good review of Vida de Mar in a couple of years.

Cheers, RickG
S/V Echoes - Coral Bay - St. John, VI
designbyroe
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Location: Chilaxin on White Bay at least in my mind

Post by designbyroe »

lovin it Becky.........WOW by the time we get to day 17......I will not be able to wait til Nov for my trip
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There's no $ sign on a peace of mind, this I've come to know
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liamsaunt
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Post by liamsaunt »

It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
mickyb
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Post by mickyb »

HEY. You didn't tell us if you found the keys.
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flip-flop
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 11:17 am
Location: Northern VA

Post by flip-flop »

Loved meeting you & John! Yeah, I would say that daquiri was "interesting" looking.

Love the trip report can't wait to read more!
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c3p1
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Location: Timonium, md

Post by c3p1 »

Really enjoyed the report--and I am on edge about the keys! Can't wait for part 2!
The pictures are awesome!
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Tracy in WI
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Location: Wisconsin

Post by Tracy in WI »

Great report so far! Love the snorkleing pictures and also am wondering abou that tree??? How strange? Was it there on purpose or by accident? Curious minds want to know.

Also, it was really great to meet you and John while in St. John. I hope we can cross paths there again :)

Tracy
cocosmom
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Post by cocosmom »

Yes, very jealous of "17 days" on your second trip in 2009...but I will get over it by seeing all the great pics!!!! Keep them coming
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Pia
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Location: St John

Post by Pia »

Such a fun to Becky and thanks for the receipe - I assume you bought sugar cane with you ?

I have a question about the "tree" car - local or tourist - some people are just strange aren't they in their reaction - like it was your fault !!!

Can't wait for more :)

Pia
Realtor - St John Properties
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