usvi-on-line
trip report--dec 19th-Jan 4--week two (warning LONG--sorry)
trip report--dec 19th-Jan 4--week two (warning LONG--sorry)
Part two...warning LONG>
Up and packing on the 27th. Today we're movin' on up! I feel like the Jeffersons and the Beverly Hillbillies all rolled into one! We are to the manor born! I hate to leave Concordia and am a bit nervous about a villa--I mean Us? In a Villa? What if we break it????? I also am feeling pangs of guilt about leaving Concordia--like I am somehow cheating on her. Did we make a mistake? If Stanley Selengut finds out about our transgression will they let us come back to Concordia ever ??? Or are we doomed to looking at villa availability calendars and amenity lists for the rest of our days??--Gord gives me one of those "get over yourself' looks....the kids are babbling about a pool of their own........ What IS my PROBLEM!!!!???? I give my self a mental slap-in-the-face and we pack up the jeep (it's a LONG slog up those steps with a bunch of gear I tell ya!)
Salty Dog and Mr. Salty Dog were nice enough to let us check in early, so at 10:30 we head off to the fire station in Coral bay to meet Erickson their property manager. Erickson arrives to meet us and he is a charmer! We follow him up up, up the hill......then DOWN the hill....the driveway looks a bit nuts.....ok, we can do this.....
We arrive and Erickson gives us the lowdown on the house--the kids see the pool and the flat screen TV and say 'Mommy this is NOT a mistake!' So I am changin' my name to Ellie-Mae!
The view from the Pool deck at Bo Atabey.
I walk up to the pool and am simply stunned by the house and the furniture ( I really wish I had taken more pictures, but considering I lost most of my photos in a stupid computer snafu, it probably wouldn't have helped)--the pool furniture is all gorgeous teak chaise's plus a bar type table and chairs perfect for eating at. There are several tiki torches that go from the pool down the walk way to the main entrance. The house is gorgeous. Like many, it's layout is a great room with two large bedrooms (with baths) on either side. A large partially covered porch runs the length of the house and around the sides with many Adirondack Chairs for lounging in--what can I say -Salty Dog has EXQUISITE taste--I wanted to take every piece of furniture home--the beds were gorgeous big four posters and SO comfortable with really nice linens--the bathrooms were out of architectural digest -with those big alabaster vessels on wooden vanities--and the outdoor showers were great. There are numerous lighted ceiling fans both inside and outside--I know they had mentioned putting in AC, but I can't imagine needing it--except for maybe in the hottest part of the summer. The house also has a state of the art kitchen - a farm sink, five (or six?) burner stove and a double oven with a large island for prep work--they have really thought of everything there--I mean really-- the Refrigerator TALKS to you -it squawks when you leave it open and it tells you how to make a mean black bean salsa--damn fridge was like having Martha Stewart herself on vacation with us (ok, it was less intrusive than Martha would likely be what with all her needin' to get down to josephines all the time, or needin' to slaughter a chicken/goat/donkey for some festive event or making tree frog canapes--yep, better to have the fridge than Martha--besides the fridge can do something even the vaunted Ms. Stewart cannot do--Keep. Beer. Cold. And this task, above all others, makes the fridge the most sainted and iconic of kitchen appliances (cue heavenly chorus). And no sooner had I had that thought than I found myself with a frosty hopsy beverage....
But back to the house--everything we needed in terms of cooking gear and appliances was right there (and a washer and dryer, which after a week at Concordia was really welcome) . Plus they left a lovely bottle of natural sunscreen and natural bug repellent and a bottle of Cruzan aged dark rum (yum!) But the real clincher (on top of all this loveliness) was that we had told them we were doing a vow renewal--and they left us a lovely bottle of Moet to celebrate--that was truly very sweet--Thank you Salty Dog!--so instead of going anywhere we hung by the pool and relaxed--
Now some people require sweeping ocean views--I was quite content with the view of the harbor--at night the lights on the boats and in the hills get all twinkley and then the frogs start up their chorus in earnest and it's just about paradise right there on the porch--different view than Concordia, but way, way charming and romantic.....oh yeah....., we actually have walls and doors between us and the F-1 progeny.....(get your minds out of the gutter!)--that night I slept like I hadn't slept in ages--the bed was that comfortable. I want this house......frankly I am not sure how they tore themselves away so that us interlopers could take up residence!
Sunday 28th
Every parent has been at the point where they wanted to take their child (especially their Tweenager) and drop them off a cliff somewhere .........
something like this--though sharks circling at the bottom would have added immensely to the effect.
if you have kids you know what I mean, if you don't , then trust me, and if you have kids and have never felt that way, please tell me what drugs you are on.
So, having found myself in this position on numerous occasions I decided to do it.
We meet Kenny and Co from USVI Rock Climbing at the Park Service dock--where Lucy and I along with several other intrepid souls make our way to Mingo Cay -which looks tame enough on the approach--nice sandy beach...after a brief intro about some 100 foot cliff that no one has ever fallen (yet) (what? Did he say really 100?--about this point I start being thankful that I am not a big fan of breakfast) We hike up the hill and look down. Ummmmm, it's a long way down. Really long. Really, really long. Well now that we have established that is was way far down exactly how did I get into this mess? Oh, that pesky kid of mine is a rock climber--so I thought that being a good mom it would be FUN to go climbing with her (note to self: STOP THINKING!)--She was psyched! I, however, thought climbing meant UP, like Climb UP some rocks. I did not realize that this started with flinging yourself OFF of a 100 FOOT cliff. Backwards. Yes. BACKWARDS. I can see explaining this to my husband--'well, honey, she isn't SO broken, the doctors promise she'll be out of the chair in a couple of years' I look over the cliff and see those pesky child welfare folks (they swam over from waterlemon) circling below.... But Lucy is psyched (mom is Ill) and over the edge she goes
this photo in no way captures how sheer the drop at the top is.......
She has a blast and (too) soon comes my turn. Several unprintable words were uttered.... I am not a proud woman and I will tell you that at this point I was scared shitless. But I promised her I'd do it. So after making my peace with my maker over the edge I went--Kenny saying encouraging words the whole time--and it was FUN! Though at the bottom I realized I was still shaking like a leaf!--next we climb back up--Lucy (or rather Mom) forgot Lucy's climbing shoes--not a good thing as she wants to do the difficult route up and is wearing water shoes that are too big .... She scrambles over and up
but a piece of the cliff comes loose in her hand (regular climbing hazard) and she loses her grip and bangs up her knee--Still she goes up to the top--Kenny bandages her and yells down to me 'It looks fine, I don't think it needs stitches or anything' What??? You don't THINK it needs stitches? Give me that damned rope you climbing woosies--and so I climbed up--no motivation like your kid being hurt - turns out she was fine, bruised and bummed that she didn't climb better (um, excuse me--you climbed the hardest route!)
All in all we had a great morning with these guys--if you are into adventure these guys run a great operation (they have been doing a climbing school in SE mass for many years) Honest--despite what you all may think of me, I really wouldn't toss my kid over a cliff with just any operator.
We get back and are starved -over to deli grotto for a tuna sandwich - Lucy is soaked and as we have some time to kill before we hit the beach bar we spend the next two hours looking for something for Ms. Fashionista-I-can't-go-there-all-wet to wear, (umm it's a BEACH bar.???????) so we hit St john Spice where I introduce myself to Ruth (who met Gord at the tourist trap when the on st. john guys were filming) Lucy finds something--but HORRORS-- It simply CAN'T be worn with SNEAKERS (do you know about this rule? who made this rule???? I know the white after labor day rule, but no one ever told me about the no sundress and sneakers on a kid rule. ) So while my daughter is channeling her inner Anna Wintour we go to EVERY OTHER Store in Wharfside and then some--I refuse to buy new shoes--she already has TONS Of shoes. Serious sulking sets in (oh and she's probably dry by now anyway). Enter Daddy (aka, the Pushover--he is genetically programmed to do her bidding with one look) two seconds and an expensive pair of flip flops later Lucy returns to St John Spice and emerges in a cute black sundress (Black? Yeah, she's from NY....) So Ruth, problem solved! --well, today was supposed to be her birthday present and the climbing didn't go as well as she'd hoped so what's a pair of flipflops and a sundress......vacation really must have mellowed me a bit cause it's almost 4:30 and I still haven't had a beer.
Head to the Beach Bar where we meet up with KathyMN and her friend Anne--We had a few drinks and a great time chatting--turns out Kathy has family in Logumkloster DK which is where our former au pair (who is like another daughter to me) lives--this is a SMALL town in Denmark, so it's pretty amazing.
Kids are getting antsy so we head back home to Bo Atabey --got to rest up cause I 'm getting married in the morning.....(I mean the tourist trap is closed on Mondays so I have to figure out something else for us to do....)
Monday 29th. DISCLAIMER--this section is sort of Mushy--if you don't like Mushy then please skip to the next day--thank you.
It looks like a great day waking up--we all put on our best bib and tucker, (which in my son's case consists of a t shirt that is actually clean) fill a cooler with champagne and orange juice and salmon and bread and cheese and fruit and soda--grab our suits and snorkel gear (a post nuptial snorkel is a good thing, right?) put everyone in the jeep and search along the sides of the road for some wild flowers--which we find. Over the hill towards Francis Bay then UH OH--what is that HUGE BLACK CLOUD.....I am, in a word, crestfallen. But knowing the island, maybe this is just a passing shower..... We meet Anne Marie Porter at Francis along with Bob Schlesinger of Tropical Focus (yes, I did pictures vain as all get out, I guess but--I never liked my original wedding pictures, the dress, etc...long story....) It is still misting and Anne Marie suggests we try to wait out the weather a bit--so we do and we get the only bright spot that occurred that WHOLE day (there was a big front coming thru and from about 11:30 on it simply poured--good news was that the Christmas winds died down for the rest of our trip)--Mary (who used to work at Maho--and I feel as though I have known her for a longer time than just this trip) shows up as well and was really helpful with the kids and it was just great having her there with us.
So we are standing on beach and the sun starts to shine and Anne Marie starts to speak and there are RAINBOWS not just one, but rainbow after rainbow--one would disappear and another would show up to take it's place --then a double rainbow over the far side of Francis (we were closer to the parking lot ) it was magical--and made even more so by Anne Marie's words--I cannot adequately describe how wonderful she is and just how much love and joy you feel in her presence--she is truly a most lovely person. She calls the kids (who think that mom and dad have lost a screw and are sort of weird for getting married again) over because they apparently have a gift for me--and out of Will's pocket comes a beautiful ring from Gord. Ok, enough mushy stuff. Lets just say that this wedding was the right way. We break out the champagne and snacks and snorkel gear and I finally see my first (and only) turtle of the trip. It starts to pour so we head out to lunch in Cruz Bay--then over to shipwreck to meet some more friends for a drink then head back to Bo Atabey....Gord's cell phone rings and it is my brother. My Aunt just unexpectedly passed away in Florida--ugh. So it was a yin/yang kind of day--Great happiness and great sorrow.
Jan 30th--today we are sailing on the Long Distance with Rick and Robin Gallup--the weather is PERFECT--we sail over towards big Lameshur and snorkel the tektite site--really a nice snorkel--chatting with Rick and Robin we find out that they remember us from when they were working at Maho and we were honeymooning there (in '93 because we brought our folding kayak with us we sort of stood out )--after a lunch of turkey sandwiches we head over to Hurricane Hole and snorkel the mangroves-if you haven't done this, do it! We've sailed with several outfits and always have a great experience--but the thing that really stood out on this day was that we didn't feel like clients--we felt like old friends--I do not know how they manage to do that, but Rick and Robin are pretty amazing people. We grab dinner from Chef Reggie (BBQ to DIE for) by the ball field (aunt eirlines--it's the Yellow kiosk--He doesn't always look open so check around the back) -apparently he used to cook at Joes and now does this. Good thing too! I think we paid 10 bucks for a HUGE serving of Chicken (enough easily for two kids) and Three large sides (rice, potato salad and something else.....)
Dec. 31st.
Today we decide to go to Maho (again...what can I say.....familiarity in this case does not breed contempt) we got there early....damn good thing too--by 11 the place looked like Jones Beach on July 4th. It was CROWDED......guess this is one of the hazards of traveling in high season.....but at least the stealth chickens have a boat load of options to choose from. We are in the water, Gord is deeply buried in a book (not a very good sentinel that husband of mine) Reconnaissance Chicken walks by nonchalant as all get out....acting all innocent and chickeny--'just me on my own just walking thru the under brush minding my own chicken stuff' -Like we DON'T know ALL about you..... Soon RC signals to Stealth Chickens 1 and 2 ' Dudes, they got chips... and COOKIES in Delta sector! SAWEEEEEETTTTT! Move in! Move! Move! Move! ' SC's 1 and 2 make a stealth approach to the snack bag. I yell from the water--'Gord! The chickens!' He turns and you can practically see RC shouting 'Abort! Abort! Fall back! ' as SC's 1 and 2 run into the underbrush--this scene plays it self out several times over the course of the morning. Next time I go to Maho it's chicken salad sandwiches and hard boiled eggs--Take that Chickens!
We head out before they bring in riot police to control the crowds.
We are supposed to attend a party at a friend's house on Gifft Hill, but she has to cancel, so we have dinner and leave the kids at 'home' and head down the hill to listen to the band at Skinny Legs for an hour. We are home well before midnight--at midnight the bells at the Moravian Church rang and rang and then the Fridge beeped and said HAPPY DAY -and you thought that Charlotte the spider was cool. This is some fridge.
January 1st.
Up early as we are doing the Reef Bay Trail with the NPS. In all my times to St john, I have never done this hike and Gord really wanted to do it, so here I am on new years day hiking.......I could be having a nice new years brunch someplace....I could be ASLEEP! I could be asleep on the beach after a nice new years brunch--but here I am hiking....--We make it to the NPS and there are 39 people doing this hike (so rush hour hiking) we pile into the jitneys and go back to the trailhead -but why does everyone have a lunch with them? I have water and a couple of apples. Don't we get back to Cruz Bay at 1:00? Oh, oh, oh, get ready for another one ripped-from-the-headlines-of-the-badparents-weekly-
"Oh, no", a nice mom informs me sweetly as I eye her two LARGE bags of lunch (feeling very much like Reconnaissance Chicken as I size her up--I think I could take her....and her nice sandwiches) "the BOAT picks us up at maybe 1:45 and we'll be back at Cruz bay by 3 or so." Oh Great. I picture my shriveled, starving, children and worse, my cranky, whiny, grumpy because they are starving children.... This is NOT a good way to start the new year .... I am hiking fast and keep looking over my shoulder for the child welfare authorities--assuming they have managed to get back from Mingo.....We arrive at the petroglyphs
which are very cool and we check out
Some bats in the ruins (who in real life are not at all that blurry).
We do a swim in reef bay and the nice lady with a lot of lunch takes pity on my poor lunchless waifs and offers up an extra sandwich and a couple of bags of chips. Of course ungrateful wretches that they are we unwrap the sandwich (an Italian with all the trimmings) and it's 'Ewwww it has tomatoes and onions'.......sheesh......next trip I am taking the kids to a refugee camp in Chad......They happily ate the chips that came in colors that don't occur in nature and the apple with happily does.....
Captain Ben and the Sadie Sea provide a very entertaining ride back to Cruz Bay.
We're pretty starving so we head to the Waterfront Bistro for a late lunch--While there we run into a family of Canadians (my husband is also Canadian, I think all Candians have some sort of great white north detector implanted at birth) who were next door in P-14 with us at Concordia and who spent their second week on a Kayak trip with Arawak. They were staying at Gallows and asked us to come up and hang out....so we did--I have never been to Gallows and I will put it out there that I find it a bit strange looking when coming in on the ferry--however, we go to their unit (4 D? it was the upper unit) and it was REALLY nice! We did some swimming and then left all the kids in their place with tons of junk food and went upstairs to the bar at Zo zo's to watch the sunset--it was gorgeous. After planning a tentative kayaking trip somewhere in the cold north we were off and back to Bo Atabey--leftovers for dinner and a rousing game of Clue. Tomorrow is our last full day.....
Jan 2.
We are so totally predictable!!!! Ask the kids where they want to go and it's Little Lameshur....so we're off with lunch packed--it's even pretty crowded down there--meet some nice folks who have a whole crew staying at VIERS grandparents, kids grandkids--must check that out sometime....
We take one last swing by the Tourist Trap
Sadly Larry was out of meatballs.......Will was bummed....but chicken wings got him sorted out.
We head back to Shipwreck for dinner and I start dreading the leaving......
January 3rd
We pack up and leave BoAtabey--I am SO sad.....We wave to Erickson as we pass him on the hill--and head for Gifft hill to my friends house for brunch--we haven't a lot of time, we need to get the 1:30 car barge......I offer to take Gord and the kids to the airport then return the car, but he was fine with just getting a ride from dependable--so that was the plan.....their flight leaves at 4:15 so we have plenty of time (yeah, right, the best laid plans an all that) We say our goodbyes and head for the barge--ZOIKS lots of cars, still we manage to get in line and not locked out....but then...huh??? The 1:30 boat goes at 1??? What is going on??? Gord goes out to investigate--the guys tell him that 'the next boat go maybe 3 , 3:30 mon....' Oh no!.....we book it out of line, I make a bee line for the regular ferry and Gord, kids, and luggage make the 1:30 CA ferry....
I go back with the car and the gate is LOCKED...WHAT???? Ok, there are worse things than being stranded in paradise....hey, wait--could I actually be stranded here? SWEET!!!!!!! Turns out they are down to one ferry, but as soon as that one arrives they turn it around and I am on the ferry by 2:30 pm (so Gord really could have made it with me--)
I am pretty sad to leave. Not only do I now miss my family, but I am leaving on of my favorite places. I stay overnight at Villa Olga which is a relly great place to spend the night. Trying to plan the next trip--and Mr Practical insists that we need to repair the bathroom before we do anything else....But I found great airfare!!!!! darn him and his practical ways....still working on an april trip.......
Up and packing on the 27th. Today we're movin' on up! I feel like the Jeffersons and the Beverly Hillbillies all rolled into one! We are to the manor born! I hate to leave Concordia and am a bit nervous about a villa--I mean Us? In a Villa? What if we break it????? I also am feeling pangs of guilt about leaving Concordia--like I am somehow cheating on her. Did we make a mistake? If Stanley Selengut finds out about our transgression will they let us come back to Concordia ever ??? Or are we doomed to looking at villa availability calendars and amenity lists for the rest of our days??--Gord gives me one of those "get over yourself' looks....the kids are babbling about a pool of their own........ What IS my PROBLEM!!!!???? I give my self a mental slap-in-the-face and we pack up the jeep (it's a LONG slog up those steps with a bunch of gear I tell ya!)
Salty Dog and Mr. Salty Dog were nice enough to let us check in early, so at 10:30 we head off to the fire station in Coral bay to meet Erickson their property manager. Erickson arrives to meet us and he is a charmer! We follow him up up, up the hill......then DOWN the hill....the driveway looks a bit nuts.....ok, we can do this.....
We arrive and Erickson gives us the lowdown on the house--the kids see the pool and the flat screen TV and say 'Mommy this is NOT a mistake!' So I am changin' my name to Ellie-Mae!
The view from the Pool deck at Bo Atabey.
I walk up to the pool and am simply stunned by the house and the furniture ( I really wish I had taken more pictures, but considering I lost most of my photos in a stupid computer snafu, it probably wouldn't have helped)--the pool furniture is all gorgeous teak chaise's plus a bar type table and chairs perfect for eating at. There are several tiki torches that go from the pool down the walk way to the main entrance. The house is gorgeous. Like many, it's layout is a great room with two large bedrooms (with baths) on either side. A large partially covered porch runs the length of the house and around the sides with many Adirondack Chairs for lounging in--what can I say -Salty Dog has EXQUISITE taste--I wanted to take every piece of furniture home--the beds were gorgeous big four posters and SO comfortable with really nice linens--the bathrooms were out of architectural digest -with those big alabaster vessels on wooden vanities--and the outdoor showers were great. There are numerous lighted ceiling fans both inside and outside--I know they had mentioned putting in AC, but I can't imagine needing it--except for maybe in the hottest part of the summer. The house also has a state of the art kitchen - a farm sink, five (or six?) burner stove and a double oven with a large island for prep work--they have really thought of everything there--I mean really-- the Refrigerator TALKS to you -it squawks when you leave it open and it tells you how to make a mean black bean salsa--damn fridge was like having Martha Stewart herself on vacation with us (ok, it was less intrusive than Martha would likely be what with all her needin' to get down to josephines all the time, or needin' to slaughter a chicken/goat/donkey for some festive event or making tree frog canapes--yep, better to have the fridge than Martha--besides the fridge can do something even the vaunted Ms. Stewart cannot do--Keep. Beer. Cold. And this task, above all others, makes the fridge the most sainted and iconic of kitchen appliances (cue heavenly chorus). And no sooner had I had that thought than I found myself with a frosty hopsy beverage....
But back to the house--everything we needed in terms of cooking gear and appliances was right there (and a washer and dryer, which after a week at Concordia was really welcome) . Plus they left a lovely bottle of natural sunscreen and natural bug repellent and a bottle of Cruzan aged dark rum (yum!) But the real clincher (on top of all this loveliness) was that we had told them we were doing a vow renewal--and they left us a lovely bottle of Moet to celebrate--that was truly very sweet--Thank you Salty Dog!--so instead of going anywhere we hung by the pool and relaxed--
Now some people require sweeping ocean views--I was quite content with the view of the harbor--at night the lights on the boats and in the hills get all twinkley and then the frogs start up their chorus in earnest and it's just about paradise right there on the porch--different view than Concordia, but way, way charming and romantic.....oh yeah....., we actually have walls and doors between us and the F-1 progeny.....(get your minds out of the gutter!)--that night I slept like I hadn't slept in ages--the bed was that comfortable. I want this house......frankly I am not sure how they tore themselves away so that us interlopers could take up residence!
Sunday 28th
Every parent has been at the point where they wanted to take their child (especially their Tweenager) and drop them off a cliff somewhere .........
something like this--though sharks circling at the bottom would have added immensely to the effect.
if you have kids you know what I mean, if you don't , then trust me, and if you have kids and have never felt that way, please tell me what drugs you are on.
So, having found myself in this position on numerous occasions I decided to do it.
We meet Kenny and Co from USVI Rock Climbing at the Park Service dock--where Lucy and I along with several other intrepid souls make our way to Mingo Cay -which looks tame enough on the approach--nice sandy beach...after a brief intro about some 100 foot cliff that no one has ever fallen (yet) (what? Did he say really 100?--about this point I start being thankful that I am not a big fan of breakfast) We hike up the hill and look down. Ummmmm, it's a long way down. Really long. Really, really long. Well now that we have established that is was way far down exactly how did I get into this mess? Oh, that pesky kid of mine is a rock climber--so I thought that being a good mom it would be FUN to go climbing with her (note to self: STOP THINKING!)--She was psyched! I, however, thought climbing meant UP, like Climb UP some rocks. I did not realize that this started with flinging yourself OFF of a 100 FOOT cliff. Backwards. Yes. BACKWARDS. I can see explaining this to my husband--'well, honey, she isn't SO broken, the doctors promise she'll be out of the chair in a couple of years' I look over the cliff and see those pesky child welfare folks (they swam over from waterlemon) circling below.... But Lucy is psyched (mom is Ill) and over the edge she goes
this photo in no way captures how sheer the drop at the top is.......
She has a blast and (too) soon comes my turn. Several unprintable words were uttered.... I am not a proud woman and I will tell you that at this point I was scared shitless. But I promised her I'd do it. So after making my peace with my maker over the edge I went--Kenny saying encouraging words the whole time--and it was FUN! Though at the bottom I realized I was still shaking like a leaf!--next we climb back up--Lucy (or rather Mom) forgot Lucy's climbing shoes--not a good thing as she wants to do the difficult route up and is wearing water shoes that are too big .... She scrambles over and up
but a piece of the cliff comes loose in her hand (regular climbing hazard) and she loses her grip and bangs up her knee--Still she goes up to the top--Kenny bandages her and yells down to me 'It looks fine, I don't think it needs stitches or anything' What??? You don't THINK it needs stitches? Give me that damned rope you climbing woosies--and so I climbed up--no motivation like your kid being hurt - turns out she was fine, bruised and bummed that she didn't climb better (um, excuse me--you climbed the hardest route!)
All in all we had a great morning with these guys--if you are into adventure these guys run a great operation (they have been doing a climbing school in SE mass for many years) Honest--despite what you all may think of me, I really wouldn't toss my kid over a cliff with just any operator.
We get back and are starved -over to deli grotto for a tuna sandwich - Lucy is soaked and as we have some time to kill before we hit the beach bar we spend the next two hours looking for something for Ms. Fashionista-I-can't-go-there-all-wet to wear, (umm it's a BEACH bar.???????) so we hit St john Spice where I introduce myself to Ruth (who met Gord at the tourist trap when the on st. john guys were filming) Lucy finds something--but HORRORS-- It simply CAN'T be worn with SNEAKERS (do you know about this rule? who made this rule???? I know the white after labor day rule, but no one ever told me about the no sundress and sneakers on a kid rule. ) So while my daughter is channeling her inner Anna Wintour we go to EVERY OTHER Store in Wharfside and then some--I refuse to buy new shoes--she already has TONS Of shoes. Serious sulking sets in (oh and she's probably dry by now anyway). Enter Daddy (aka, the Pushover--he is genetically programmed to do her bidding with one look) two seconds and an expensive pair of flip flops later Lucy returns to St John Spice and emerges in a cute black sundress (Black? Yeah, she's from NY....) So Ruth, problem solved! --well, today was supposed to be her birthday present and the climbing didn't go as well as she'd hoped so what's a pair of flipflops and a sundress......vacation really must have mellowed me a bit cause it's almost 4:30 and I still haven't had a beer.
Head to the Beach Bar where we meet up with KathyMN and her friend Anne--We had a few drinks and a great time chatting--turns out Kathy has family in Logumkloster DK which is where our former au pair (who is like another daughter to me) lives--this is a SMALL town in Denmark, so it's pretty amazing.
Kids are getting antsy so we head back home to Bo Atabey --got to rest up cause I 'm getting married in the morning.....(I mean the tourist trap is closed on Mondays so I have to figure out something else for us to do....)
Monday 29th. DISCLAIMER--this section is sort of Mushy--if you don't like Mushy then please skip to the next day--thank you.
It looks like a great day waking up--we all put on our best bib and tucker, (which in my son's case consists of a t shirt that is actually clean) fill a cooler with champagne and orange juice and salmon and bread and cheese and fruit and soda--grab our suits and snorkel gear (a post nuptial snorkel is a good thing, right?) put everyone in the jeep and search along the sides of the road for some wild flowers--which we find. Over the hill towards Francis Bay then UH OH--what is that HUGE BLACK CLOUD.....I am, in a word, crestfallen. But knowing the island, maybe this is just a passing shower..... We meet Anne Marie Porter at Francis along with Bob Schlesinger of Tropical Focus (yes, I did pictures vain as all get out, I guess but--I never liked my original wedding pictures, the dress, etc...long story....) It is still misting and Anne Marie suggests we try to wait out the weather a bit--so we do and we get the only bright spot that occurred that WHOLE day (there was a big front coming thru and from about 11:30 on it simply poured--good news was that the Christmas winds died down for the rest of our trip)--Mary (who used to work at Maho--and I feel as though I have known her for a longer time than just this trip) shows up as well and was really helpful with the kids and it was just great having her there with us.
So we are standing on beach and the sun starts to shine and Anne Marie starts to speak and there are RAINBOWS not just one, but rainbow after rainbow--one would disappear and another would show up to take it's place --then a double rainbow over the far side of Francis (we were closer to the parking lot ) it was magical--and made even more so by Anne Marie's words--I cannot adequately describe how wonderful she is and just how much love and joy you feel in her presence--she is truly a most lovely person. She calls the kids (who think that mom and dad have lost a screw and are sort of weird for getting married again) over because they apparently have a gift for me--and out of Will's pocket comes a beautiful ring from Gord. Ok, enough mushy stuff. Lets just say that this wedding was the right way. We break out the champagne and snacks and snorkel gear and I finally see my first (and only) turtle of the trip. It starts to pour so we head out to lunch in Cruz Bay--then over to shipwreck to meet some more friends for a drink then head back to Bo Atabey....Gord's cell phone rings and it is my brother. My Aunt just unexpectedly passed away in Florida--ugh. So it was a yin/yang kind of day--Great happiness and great sorrow.
Jan 30th--today we are sailing on the Long Distance with Rick and Robin Gallup--the weather is PERFECT--we sail over towards big Lameshur and snorkel the tektite site--really a nice snorkel--chatting with Rick and Robin we find out that they remember us from when they were working at Maho and we were honeymooning there (in '93 because we brought our folding kayak with us we sort of stood out )--after a lunch of turkey sandwiches we head over to Hurricane Hole and snorkel the mangroves-if you haven't done this, do it! We've sailed with several outfits and always have a great experience--but the thing that really stood out on this day was that we didn't feel like clients--we felt like old friends--I do not know how they manage to do that, but Rick and Robin are pretty amazing people. We grab dinner from Chef Reggie (BBQ to DIE for) by the ball field (aunt eirlines--it's the Yellow kiosk--He doesn't always look open so check around the back) -apparently he used to cook at Joes and now does this. Good thing too! I think we paid 10 bucks for a HUGE serving of Chicken (enough easily for two kids) and Three large sides (rice, potato salad and something else.....)
Dec. 31st.
Today we decide to go to Maho (again...what can I say.....familiarity in this case does not breed contempt) we got there early....damn good thing too--by 11 the place looked like Jones Beach on July 4th. It was CROWDED......guess this is one of the hazards of traveling in high season.....but at least the stealth chickens have a boat load of options to choose from. We are in the water, Gord is deeply buried in a book (not a very good sentinel that husband of mine) Reconnaissance Chicken walks by nonchalant as all get out....acting all innocent and chickeny--'just me on my own just walking thru the under brush minding my own chicken stuff' -Like we DON'T know ALL about you..... Soon RC signals to Stealth Chickens 1 and 2 ' Dudes, they got chips... and COOKIES in Delta sector! SAWEEEEEETTTTT! Move in! Move! Move! Move! ' SC's 1 and 2 make a stealth approach to the snack bag. I yell from the water--'Gord! The chickens!' He turns and you can practically see RC shouting 'Abort! Abort! Fall back! ' as SC's 1 and 2 run into the underbrush--this scene plays it self out several times over the course of the morning. Next time I go to Maho it's chicken salad sandwiches and hard boiled eggs--Take that Chickens!
We head out before they bring in riot police to control the crowds.
We are supposed to attend a party at a friend's house on Gifft Hill, but she has to cancel, so we have dinner and leave the kids at 'home' and head down the hill to listen to the band at Skinny Legs for an hour. We are home well before midnight--at midnight the bells at the Moravian Church rang and rang and then the Fridge beeped and said HAPPY DAY -and you thought that Charlotte the spider was cool. This is some fridge.
January 1st.
Up early as we are doing the Reef Bay Trail with the NPS. In all my times to St john, I have never done this hike and Gord really wanted to do it, so here I am on new years day hiking.......I could be having a nice new years brunch someplace....I could be ASLEEP! I could be asleep on the beach after a nice new years brunch--but here I am hiking....--We make it to the NPS and there are 39 people doing this hike (so rush hour hiking) we pile into the jitneys and go back to the trailhead -but why does everyone have a lunch with them? I have water and a couple of apples. Don't we get back to Cruz Bay at 1:00? Oh, oh, oh, get ready for another one ripped-from-the-headlines-of-the-badparents-weekly-
"Oh, no", a nice mom informs me sweetly as I eye her two LARGE bags of lunch (feeling very much like Reconnaissance Chicken as I size her up--I think I could take her....and her nice sandwiches) "the BOAT picks us up at maybe 1:45 and we'll be back at Cruz bay by 3 or so." Oh Great. I picture my shriveled, starving, children and worse, my cranky, whiny, grumpy because they are starving children.... This is NOT a good way to start the new year .... I am hiking fast and keep looking over my shoulder for the child welfare authorities--assuming they have managed to get back from Mingo.....We arrive at the petroglyphs
which are very cool and we check out
Some bats in the ruins (who in real life are not at all that blurry).
We do a swim in reef bay and the nice lady with a lot of lunch takes pity on my poor lunchless waifs and offers up an extra sandwich and a couple of bags of chips. Of course ungrateful wretches that they are we unwrap the sandwich (an Italian with all the trimmings) and it's 'Ewwww it has tomatoes and onions'.......sheesh......next trip I am taking the kids to a refugee camp in Chad......They happily ate the chips that came in colors that don't occur in nature and the apple with happily does.....
Captain Ben and the Sadie Sea provide a very entertaining ride back to Cruz Bay.
We're pretty starving so we head to the Waterfront Bistro for a late lunch--While there we run into a family of Canadians (my husband is also Canadian, I think all Candians have some sort of great white north detector implanted at birth) who were next door in P-14 with us at Concordia and who spent their second week on a Kayak trip with Arawak. They were staying at Gallows and asked us to come up and hang out....so we did--I have never been to Gallows and I will put it out there that I find it a bit strange looking when coming in on the ferry--however, we go to their unit (4 D? it was the upper unit) and it was REALLY nice! We did some swimming and then left all the kids in their place with tons of junk food and went upstairs to the bar at Zo zo's to watch the sunset--it was gorgeous. After planning a tentative kayaking trip somewhere in the cold north we were off and back to Bo Atabey--leftovers for dinner and a rousing game of Clue. Tomorrow is our last full day.....
Jan 2.
We are so totally predictable!!!! Ask the kids where they want to go and it's Little Lameshur....so we're off with lunch packed--it's even pretty crowded down there--meet some nice folks who have a whole crew staying at VIERS grandparents, kids grandkids--must check that out sometime....
We take one last swing by the Tourist Trap
Sadly Larry was out of meatballs.......Will was bummed....but chicken wings got him sorted out.
We head back to Shipwreck for dinner and I start dreading the leaving......
January 3rd
We pack up and leave BoAtabey--I am SO sad.....We wave to Erickson as we pass him on the hill--and head for Gifft hill to my friends house for brunch--we haven't a lot of time, we need to get the 1:30 car barge......I offer to take Gord and the kids to the airport then return the car, but he was fine with just getting a ride from dependable--so that was the plan.....their flight leaves at 4:15 so we have plenty of time (yeah, right, the best laid plans an all that) We say our goodbyes and head for the barge--ZOIKS lots of cars, still we manage to get in line and not locked out....but then...huh??? The 1:30 boat goes at 1??? What is going on??? Gord goes out to investigate--the guys tell him that 'the next boat go maybe 3 , 3:30 mon....' Oh no!.....we book it out of line, I make a bee line for the regular ferry and Gord, kids, and luggage make the 1:30 CA ferry....
I go back with the car and the gate is LOCKED...WHAT???? Ok, there are worse things than being stranded in paradise....hey, wait--could I actually be stranded here? SWEET!!!!!!! Turns out they are down to one ferry, but as soon as that one arrives they turn it around and I am on the ferry by 2:30 pm (so Gord really could have made it with me--)
I am pretty sad to leave. Not only do I now miss my family, but I am leaving on of my favorite places. I stay overnight at Villa Olga which is a relly great place to spend the night. Trying to plan the next trip--and Mr Practical insists that we need to repair the bathroom before we do anything else....But I found great airfare!!!!! darn him and his practical ways....still working on an april trip.......
Last edited by loria on Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.
< leaving on the 22nd of march...but too lame to figure out the ticker thing again!>
You are cracking me up with your inferences of child welfare.
I never knew about the rock climbing. That sounds like a lot of fun! My oldest loves to rock climb. I showed him your picture and said “oh no we missed this” and he said well, we can’t do everything. True . . . but darn!
I loved reading your trip reports! The chickens, starving kids, throwing the kids over the cliff, the people you meet--it sounds like so much fun!
Gina
I never knew about the rock climbing. That sounds like a lot of fun! My oldest loves to rock climb. I showed him your picture and said “oh no we missed this” and he said well, we can’t do everything. True . . . but darn!
I loved reading your trip reports! The chickens, starving kids, throwing the kids over the cliff, the people you meet--it sounds like so much fun!
Gina
What a great report! Congrats on renewing your vows!
Thanks for the insight on Bo Atabey, and the warnings about the talking frig, which may have otherwise startled me. I can't wait to get there.
ROCK CLIMBING! My older daughter will be all over that one. I'll have to tell her about it.
Your description of the chicken organization was the funniest thing Ive read in a long time. And I've heard a lot of funny chicken stories.
Is there anything left to see at the Tektite project site? Good buddy of mine was a small toddler when his mom and dad lived on St John and his dad worked on the project. I have a cute picture of his folks holding him by the commissary tents. Never heard of it til he told me about it. Very interesting.
Love your writing style! Thanks for making my day.
Thanks for the insight on Bo Atabey, and the warnings about the talking frig, which may have otherwise startled me. I can't wait to get there.
ROCK CLIMBING! My older daughter will be all over that one. I'll have to tell her about it.
Your description of the chicken organization was the funniest thing Ive read in a long time. And I've heard a lot of funny chicken stories.
Is there anything left to see at the Tektite project site? Good buddy of mine was a small toddler when his mom and dad lived on St John and his dad worked on the project. I have a cute picture of his folks holding him by the commissary tents. Never heard of it til he told me about it. Very interesting.
Love your writing style! Thanks for making my day.
Good stuff loria 
Been there many of times on the teenager cliff thing 
The Maho chicken thing cracked me up, only reason my honey doesn't care for Maho, allthough they left us alone last trip.What a rush jumping off the side of a cliff haven't done that in twenty years but I remember it well. May have to give that a try again.
Been there many of times on the teenager cliff thing The Maho chicken thing cracked me up, only reason my honey doesn't care for Maho, allthough they left us alone last trip.What a rush jumping off the side of a cliff haven't done that in twenty years but I remember it well. May have to give that a try again.
Great report, thanks!! I have to admit I was laughing out loud about the chickens. I never paid them much attention on Maho. That is until I threw one Pringle chip in their direction 
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To this day, I will swear that we saw the same chicken VickiH has in her photos. It was mainly white with some brown markings around the neck area. Cluck, cluck my friends.
Tourist Trap definitely on the must do list for next trip.
.To this day, I will swear that we saw the same chicken VickiH has in her photos. It was mainly white with some brown markings around the neck area. Cluck, cluck my friends.
Tourist Trap definitely on the must do list for next trip.
Going "home" again October 26th!