usvi-on-line
Vicki's Trip Report....the whole darn thing.
Vicki's Trip Report....the whole darn thing.
The abbreviated photo set:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N ... 501890571/
The whole enchilada:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N ... 493225727/
Tuesday, December 9 - Travel Day
I know that what you truly want to hear about is my flight down, layovers, car rental, how I packed my suitcase, how many bathing suits I took and whether I prefer a tankini or bikini, carry-on or checked bags, cooler or no, and what I ate at the airport, but I am already pretty darn long winded so how about we just skip all that?
I know many of you don't like Budget, but I have enjoyed a golden run with them so far. Eleven trips, eleven great experiences. Got a brand spankin' new 4-door Wrangler with 200 miles on it and was out of the airport 10 minutes after landing. No joke. I was worried about the car ferry, since some weren't running and I had been hearing horror stories all week, but we pulled up at 5:29 and were ushered onto the 5:30 ferry just before it pulled away.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125389975/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/312 ... 898ec5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
The sun hadn't quite set yet, so I could look across the water and see the jewel of St. John sparkling in the distance. Okay, maybe what I was really seeing was the waning sunlight hitting the enormous expanse of Sirenusa, giant hillside blight that it is, but it sparkled all the same. I was nearly there.
The few hours of evening were spent getting groceries, having a great lobster dinner at Morgan's Mango, and settling into my favorite villa, Sunnyledge.
A storm blew in that night and I fell asleep listening to the rain beat on the roof and the wind rushing through the palms. In my dreams, I could feel my toes in the sand at Maho....island time was here.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126505581/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3133/312 ... b38599.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
Wednesday, December 10 - Catamarans and Jello Shots
The storms of the night did nothing more than fill our cistern and I awoke to a glorious, sunny morning. No matter how many times I see it, the view from Sunnyledge never ceases to take my breath away and this first morning was no exception.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126331862/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/312 ... 6420be.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
Pouncer, loyal villa cat, was sitting outside on the deck begging to be fed. I was happy to see that he was still around and got him his morning goodies. No, I didn't take any new photos of Pouncer on this trip. Frankly, Pouncer has just gotten really fat. Domesticity can do that to a man. No one wants their picture taken when they feel fat.
Today we were meeting Gromit and hubby (and in-laws) to go out on a catamaran with Scubagirl and her crew. Matt and I had (his) newbie friends on this trip, which you will notice that I won't mention much in this report. Why? Because they were a Class A Pain in the A$$ and totally DID NOT GET IT. John was like a morph of Gomer Pyle, Jim Carrey, and Pee Wee Herman on speed and Teresa just whined and complained a lot. I did my best to pretend they weren't there so they don't really figure into my story.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127326206/" title="Views from Annaberg by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/312 ... 5e4017.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Views from Annaberg"></a>
We arrived in the Annaberg parking lot at 10:00 a.m. as scheduled, and I was wondering how the heck I was going to know Gromit when I saw her....and just then, the coolest chick in a tie dye t-shirt, long blond pig tails, and a Life is Good hat came strolling down the street. I knew in an instant. GROMIT!! Hugs were shared, introductions were made, and off we were to wait for the dingy. Pretty soon, a dingy driver sporting a "Haven't I Seen You on the Forum?" t-shirt pulled up. That had to be our ride! Ya' think?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126492581/" title="Keith arrives with the dinghy... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3236/312 ... 0e4f0a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Keith arrives with the dinghy..."></a>
It was so unbelievably generous for Scubagirl to share her day with strangers. I can't tell you guys enough what wonderful hosts she and Keith and their friends, Mark and Meredith, were. The generosity of strangers that you meet here on VIOL never ceases to amaze me. They even put up with John, for goodness sake, and for that alone, I am forever grateful. The boat was amazing. They had gotten upgraded to a 46' catamaran because the original boat they had rented was unavailable. Talk about a score. It was huge.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126487763/" title="Sydney, Vicki, & Gromit (tip: if you are the gal with no boobs, don't sit in the middle...) by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/312 ... b86f40.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Sydney, Vicki, & Gromit (tip: if you are the gal with no boobs, don't sit in the middle...)"></a>
We started off with a snorkel around Waterlemon. Okay, we actually started off with drinks, but saying that we drank that early in the morning and then snorkeled makes us sound irresponsible. So I didn't tell you that. We had pool noodles, people. We were perfectly safe. Anyway, the snorkeling was great, as always. I saw many of the usual suspects: turtles, rays, and a nice starfish party. I also saw this:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126481719/" title="Snake-eel....eeeewww..... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/312 ... 67321a.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Snake-eel....eeeewww....."></a>
I have no idea what that is. Could someone smart (insert Liamsaunt or RickG here) please identify that for me. Remember, the extent of my marine knowledge is "blue fish," "yellow fish," "something with spots...." You get the idea.
Snorkeling made us hungry, so it was time for.....you got it.....Gromit's Famous Jello Shots. Folks, let me say, Ms. Gromit does not a plain jello shot make. No, honey, this were top of the line, grade A, all the way jello shots. We had Margarita (garnished with limes and salt no less...), Lemon Drop, Cosmopolitan, and Melon. What did I learn that day? There is ALWAYS room for Jello. Let the slurping begin.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127308858/" title="There's always room for Jello. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3087/312 ... b0508b.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="There's always room for Jello."></a>
Being a jello shot virgin, I had a little trouble getting the hang of it. There was a little too much tongue action necessary to get that up and out of there, but I persisted. A Margarita, a Cosmo, and a Melon later....I was laid up on the "trampoline" where I think I stayed for the rest of the day. Well, except for when I needed another drink.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127306750/" title="Jello shots, Caribbean style... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/312 ... aedb_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Jello shots, Caribbean style..."></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127308502/" title="My first ever jello shot. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3085/312 ... 3fd2_m.jpg" width="240" height="161" alt="My first ever jello shot."></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127305498/" title="Mmmmm....s'good. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/312 ... ce1b_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Mmmmm....s'good."></a>
The day was great. Scubagirl and her crew were awesome. Keith was so nice and their friends were hilarious. Matt and I had a great time spending the day with them. Gromit and her husband were the best. That girl is incredibly cool.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126456239/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/312 ... f0f13f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
As the sun started to set, we knew we better head out and let these nice folks have their dinner in peace. Keith took us back over to shore and we headed back to Sunnyledge to do a quick clean up and head to Lime Inn for all-you-can-eat-shrimp night. The food was good and after a few glasses of water, I think I could actually focus well enough to peel my shrimp. Before heading out, I stopped in at STJ Spice to grab coffee and was surprised to see Ruth there so late. I think she had a newbie in training, so lucky me! I got to say "hi."
After taking much longer than should have been necessary to catch a really fast tree frog that had taken up residence in my bedroom (hey, you try catching a frog after a day of jello shots and 3 platters of shrimp.....), it was time for a good night's sleep.
I fell asleep humming...Watch it wiggle, see it jiggle, cool and smoothy.....J-E-L-L-O.....
Thursday, December 11 - Vie's, Skinny's, and Vicki Down Now
Usually Maho is my first beach day because it is simply my very favorite beach, but it was incredibly windy when we woke up, so we decided to make it Vie's, hoping for calmer waters. It was another beautiful day and we headed east after breakfast. The drive over still fills me with a sense of wonder, no matter how many times I see it. The expansive sea views toward Tortola, glimpses of azure waters cupped in the bays curling in toward the road, and bright pink bougainvillea spilling over fences made the drive to Vie's absolutely delightful.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127126898/" title="Vie's Beach by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/312 ... 2b0d8f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Vie's Beach"></a>
When we got there, we paid our dues and headed to the gate. I have to mention John and Teresa here. When they saw that wire gate, saw the chickens and goats milling around, saw the mini graveyard on the side, and then saw the pile of old boat parts and rusty gas cans that we were about to walk through, the look was simply PRICELESS. Okay, so maybe this wasn't the best choice for a first ever St. John beach, but nonetheless, it made me giggle on the inside. Yes, I am mean that way.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127128892/" title="Yes, this is the way. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3295/312 ... dcbc70.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Yes, this is the way."></a>
The snorkeling at Vie's was good. The water was calm and clear and we saw several turtles, lots of fish, and a pretty good sized nurse shark. I also saw Frosty on the beach. Apparently, he too was sick and tired of the cold and decided he needed a little sun. I was told he wasn't there later in the week....so.....well.....apparently snowmen and the beach don't mix. Bummer for Frosty.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126284689/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3070/312 ... f49324.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
I spent the morning reading a good book under the warm Caribbean sun. It was glorious. The smells of Vie's garlic chicken were wafting through the air and it was making me hungry, but I had Skinny's on the brain, so we opted to pack it up in the early afternoon and head out before we ruined our appetites by stuffing ourselves full of garlic chicken and conch fritters. Did I mention that Teresa hated Vie's beach so much that she spent the entire time sitting at a table reading a book with the chickens at Vie's? No accounting for taste, I suppose.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126278679/" title="Skinny Legs burger. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3221/312 ... b29661.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Skinny Legs burger."></a>
We headed over to Skinny's and passed several lazy donkeys, lots of goats, sheep, and one extremely large goose. I know new things are fun and exciting, but there is such a comfort and ease in the familiar. Skinny's is like that. I love the smelly bathroom. I love the crazy critters running around on the floor. I love the sheer sloppiness of it. And I love, love, love the burgers. It was a coconut swizzle (or three) and a cheeseburger for me, my favorite. There was one new thing I hadn't seen before. We noticed there were all these gallon sized zip log bags hanging from the ceiling and they were filled with water. We asked the waitress what was up. She said they are supposed to keep the flies away, something about not liking their reflection? Yeah, I was wondering if she had one too many sips behind the bar because I had at least 4 flies buzzing around. Um, okay. I think sometimes, it's better to just not ask.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127109274/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/312 ... 0fc621.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
The food came and it was hot and fabulous. The drinks were cold and delicious. By the time we left, I was feeling fine. Probably "too fine" for what I suggested next, "Hey, let's go to the Tourist Trap and get more drinks." We headed that way and found it soon enough. Despite my immediate love for the Tourist Trap, I think it truly sent John and Teresa careening over the edge. To someone "who doesn't get it," it is basically a shack with a bunch of junk, some liquor bottles set up on an outside stand, and some tables under a tarp. To the rest of us, it's pretty cool. Lots of neatness going on, good food (the lobstah roll...mmmmm......), and great drinks. I opted for the signature drink, Larry's Drink Right, Keep Left. I probably should have Drank None, Kept Sober, but it was already too late for that. I Drank More, Kept Drunk. That was some good stuff. So good that I didn't even mind using the Crap Shack, which, no matter how adorable and clever the sign is, is still a port-a-potty with no hand soap.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127105190/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3205/312 ... 00e8_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126274337/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/312 ... bdc4_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126269861/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3254/312 ... 8cc7_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a>
I was eventually forced away by my traveling companions because Teresa felt the need to look at more souvenir crap that she did not intend to buy. We headed over to Cocolobo so that she could browse and that was when I crashed. This photo cracks me up, because read the address sign behind my head, "I Down."
Yes, I am. I am down. Vicki Down.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127098456/" title="Note the sign "I down." After two coconut swizzles and a drink right, keep left....Vicki down. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/312 ... aa945c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Note the sign "I down." After two coconut swizzles and a drink right, keep left....Vicki down."></a>
Ladies, you now you have had one too many when you don't even try to relax in a ladylike position. This was not Vicki at her finest.
Once Teresa wasted an hour to buy nothing....again....I looked up and saw a familiar smile. GROMIT! Gromit and hubby were stopping by with the in-laws. I had sobered up enough that I was able to give her a hug without drooling on her shirt and we reminded each other that the Jost ferry was at 8:30 the next morning. Yes, we were all headed to Jost as luck would have it.
We said our goodbyes and headed back to Sunnyledge. I needed a nap. Since we were going to be gone to Jost all the next day and night, we broke Vicki's Golden Rule of Eating Out and stayed in for dinner. I learned that turkey sandwiches and Dove bars are pretty good when eaten in front of a beautiful sunset.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125503753/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3241/312 ... 262e37.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
Friday, December 12 - Jost or Bust
I always like to do something new on each trip. This trip was to include our first ever overnight to Jost. Since we were paying a tidy sum for Sunnyledge for that night, we just couldn't bring ourselves to also pay a lot for the night on Jost, so we had opted for a cabin at Ivan's.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127070266/" title="Day Three: Deli Grotto breakfast. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/312 ... 01ceac.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Day Three: Deli Grotto breakfast."></a>
We headed to Cruz Bay early and snagged a parking spot at the National Park Dock. Score! We had time to run into Deli Grotto for breakfast before heading to the ferry. Gromit and Mr. Gromit showed up shortly after and away we all went. You know how you usually board right there at the National Park Dock? Well they lined us up and walked us aaaallllll the way over to the ferry dock to board....because THAT dock is SECURE. Yeah. Parading us through Cruz Bay was very, very secure. Whatever. On the walk over, the ferry operator took an IMMEDIATELY liking to my girl Gromit and would not leave her alone. He loved him some Gromit.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126193511/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/312 ... c64f6a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
The ferry ride was short and uneventful and in no time, we pulled up to Jost and made the quick trip past the customs counter. We had rented a car and it was nowhere in sight. The taxi driver offered to call and someone from Paradise was there in 2 seconds flat. Gromit and Mr. Gromit headed on over to White Bay to chill while we went to do the car paperwork. After a quick stop at the Paradise office, we headed to White Bay.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127049626/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/312 ... 735d_b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
First stop: Soggy Dollar. We found the Gromits having breakfast and we stopped for a second before ADHD Vicki had to jump up and start running around with the camera. Matt and I strolled the beach to explore and let me get some photos before I started drinking and got too stupid to work the camera. Once that happens, Matt somehow takes over the camera and the memory card becomes mysteriously filled with photos of my butt. Gee....I wonder how that happens.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126219547/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3100/312 ... c50b86.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Afterwards, we all agreed to settle into some rented chairs on the beach. Mr. Gromit had his eyes set on a particular hammock, but unfortunately, there was a crazy drunk guy in it. He could tell Mr. Gromit wanted it and just kept taunting him, as Gromit and I watched. He'd start to get up and then he'd flop back down. He'd ease away for a second and then he'd turn and get back in. Mr. Gromit was like a big cat waiting for his moment, though. He remained calm, cool, and collected. He knew his time would come. Eventually, the guy got too relaxed and stood up to stroll away for a minute. Mr. Gromit pounced and won the hammock war. Of course, the guy sat about 10 feet away for the rest of the morning giving Mr. Gromit the stink eye, but he was sleeping peacefully and did not care. He had hammock victory, what else mattered?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127042846/" title="Mr. Gromit, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/312 ... 82f65c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Mr. Gromit, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Matt and I went over to the Soggy Dollar for a first round of painkillers and Mic mixed them up just right, with a huge smile and a great laugh. We all settled into our chairs, except John and Teresa who were hiding off in the shade somewhere lest the sun actually touch their skin and turn them to dust. After many painkillers from Soggy Dollar, bushwackers from One Love, and thank goodness....water from somewhere.....we decided to start moving in the general direction of lunch.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126216501/" title="The perfect painkiller by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/312 ... 2d7c06.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="The perfect painkiller"></a>
Second stop: Ivan's. All six of us piled into our Kia and away we went. We got a little distracted from lunch and stopped off at Ivan's for bananawhackers (hey, we had already had a bushwacker, it was only fair...you know...equal opportunity and all that....). While we were there, we ran into Ivan. I had strict instructions from Designbyroe to give him a hug, so I walked up to him and said, "Are you Ivan?" "I hope so, I am wearing his hat today." "Well, Rosi sent me with a big hug." I gave him his hug and he said many kind words about Rosi. Then I said, "We are staying with you tonight." "With me?" he said. He looked at me, looked puzzled, looked around at the six of us, then held up his hands about six inches apart and said, "But my bed is only this big."
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126203801/" title="Ivan's, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/312 ... 2b389a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Ivan's, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Third stop: Foxy's. We were officially hungry at this point and the roti was calling. We piled back into the super Kia and headed over to Great Harbor. We got to meet Foxy, played with Taboo, and ordered some lunch. Oh yeah, and had some more drinks. I can't remember the name of what I had...a sleezy breeze or something like that. It was good. I think. Gromit and I ordered the chicken roti and it was stupendous.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126193835/" title="Yay, VIOL! by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/312 ... 171498.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Yay, VIOL!"></a>
Foxy told us his "island dog" joke (is there anyone who hasn't heard it?), which was funny but we weren't really sure whether we were allowed to laugh at or not. We did some shopping and took a stroll down the sandy "main street" of Great Harbor.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126202497/" title="Gromit, Foxy, & Me by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3233/312 ... 552dcf.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Gromit, Foxy, & Me"></a>
Tip: don't try to swing on a tire swing after 3 painkillers, a bushwacker, a bananawacker, and a sleezy breeze. Just sayin'.
Sadly, it was time for Gromit and Mr. Gromit to catch the ferry back to St. John. We dropped them off with well wishes and goodbye hugs. We then headed back over to Ivan's to check out our cabins.
[SIDEBAR: Okay, I know many of you are interested in doing the overnight at the cabin thing and have asked for a report. I will be totally honest, then you make up your own mind based on your tolerance level. Pros: It's cheap (about $50). Cons: The cabins are pretty uncomfortable, which would be okay for anyone who is a pretty easy sleeper, but not for light sleepers. The beds are very small, very hard, and you only get a sheet. They are not "airtight" so you will have mosquitoes inside. The bathroom is in a separate building and is pretty minimal as far as facilities go. Am I sorry I stayed in the cabin? No. I am not a princess. For me, it was fine. It wasn't hot. The cabin and bed were clean. Even though the door wouldn't shut, no bugs bothered me. I didn't mind the bathroom or the cold shower. Seriously, it wasn't that bad. Would I stay in the cabin again? No. Only one reason, though. The bed was the only thing that was a deal breaker for me. It was simply uncomfortable and I am a very light sleeper. I was awake all night because I couldn't get comfortable. I would opt to pay more next time and maybe get a little more comfortable bed.]
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126191385/" title="Kick'n back with Ivan... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/312 ... 81a7de.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Kick'n back with Ivan..."></a>
Now, on with our story. We were shown to our cabin and of course, it was the farthest cabin from the freakin' bathroom. Well, what are you gonna' do? The cabin was basic, but decent, and we plopped our stuff inside. There was no lock and the door wouldn't even shut all the way but not once did I feel unsafe about leaving my stuff in there unattended. It's just that kind of place. I ran down to the bathroom for a quick rinse in the shower and then we enjoyed a little down time.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127020552/" title="Seriously....I am just relaxing..... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3216/312 ... 54cf_b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Seriously....I am just relaxing....."></a>
After a bit, we drove over past Little Harbor to see if we could find the bubbly pool. After a very short walk, we found it. I immediately wished that I had my suit back on, because it was pretty cool. Well, that just leaves something for next time, I suppose. Of course, John and Teresa sat in the car while Matt and I went to the bubbly pool. Yes. Sat. In. The. Car.
Freaks.
We then headed back over to Foxy's for a pre-dinner drink and just to watch the bustle of early evening activity as it started to course through Great Harbor. People were starting to mill around, glasses were clinking at the bars lining the sandy lane and people sat in hammocks with cold beer, Taboo ran up and down the road with her tennis ball, and music started drifting on the breeze. When we started to get a little hungry, we headed to Sidney's Peace and Love.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126203447/" title="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/312 ... c0c1f0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
I had heard rumors of the lobster at Sidney's, so I had to go. Wow. Was this THE PLACE. The open air building sits right on the water. This was the night of the full moon, so the moon began to rise in the sky directly in front of the restaurant. When we walked in, a lovely lady asked if we were there for the lobster.
Does a one-legged duck swim in a circle?
She pointed us toward the bar and told us how it worked. "Pour your own. If you can drink it, you can keep it. Write it down on the pad." I got behind the bar and mixed up Vicki's Painkiller and after everyone took a sip, I was promptly fired as head bartender because they tasted very much like gasoline with nutmeg. In what seemed like mere minutes, she came back out with HUGE platters of lobster for each of us. Then she returned and brought out bowls of potato salad, peas n'rice, and cole slaw for the table. OMG. It was incredible. The meal and drinks came to $50 per person. Not a bad deal in my book.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127010434/" title="Try my painkiller... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/312 ... bbb5_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Try my painkiller..."></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126177671/" title="Sidney's Peace & Love by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/312 ... 19e8_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Sidney's Peace & Love"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126177465/" title="Sidney's Peace & Love by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/312 ... aca7_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Sidney's Peace & Love"></a>
After a perfect meal, we headed back to Ivan's to do our best imitation of sleep. As uncomfortable as the beds were, that was simply the best we could hope for. I lay there awake for at least 2 hours before I started dozing fitfully. I'd sleep for about an hour and then wake up. This went on until about 4:00 a.m.
That's when I had to pee.
I lay there considering my options. I could lay in the bed and hope my bladder could endure another 2 hours, or I could try to make my way down the looooonnnnnggggg sandy path, littered with sheets of plywood and old boat parts and big rusty things that looked like a tetanus shot waiting to happen, in the pitch black dark (no lights out there), not really remembering which building the bathroom was and not knowing where the bathroom light was. I opted to lay in bed. I waited. I waited. I waited. I waited.
Holy sh*t. I waited too long. Knowing it was do or die time, I bolted out of bed. Having no time to spare, I ran out of the cabin barefoot, in a tank top and my underwear, in the dark, and it was RAINING......I bolted at lightning speed toward the bathroom wondering how the heck I was going to find the light in time (you know, to make sure the seat was down, there were no frogs on it, etc.), when I rounded the last curve and TA DA!!!!! A gazillion motion lights blared on, showing me in all my wet t-shirted and underweared glory. The good news is, I don't think anyone was awake. The bad news is, this would not be the only time I got inadvertently exposed during the trip.
Saturday, December 13 - Jumbie, Island Blue's Big-A Painkiller, and LMG
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126316970/" title="Jost sunrise by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/312 ... cce355.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Jost sunrise"></a>
Everyone got moving pretty early, because no one slept well. We were out of Ivan's before 8:00 a.m. We headed into Great Harbor and hit Christine's Bakery. We walked inside and there was Ivan. He showed me where the coffee was, and I have to admit, I thought, "This ain't no Starbucks." There was a coffee pot, some very damp sugar, and a can of condensed milk on a table. However, I am no princess, so I poured my coffee. If it's good enough for Ivan, it's good enough for me. That was, quite honestly, a damn good cup of coffee. Damn good. The smell of baking bread was drifting out of the impeccably clean kitchen. I got a huge hunk of moist banana bread and Matt got some sort of pastry. They were both great. We sat outside on the breezy porch and had breakfast until it was time to take the car back. We turned in the car, headed to the ferry, and made the trip back to St. John.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126314788/" title="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3264/312 ... 8dee9f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
It took a little longer going back, since the ferry had to stop off in Tortola, but we were back in Cruz Bay by 10:00. Teresa had a bug up her butt about finding more souvenirs that she would not buy, so we told her we'd stay in town until 1:00. We went our separate ways. After a tad of shopping and a visit to Ruth and Ron for a spice stock up and more "hellos," Matt and I plopped down at the Beach Bar for the morning. Two tuna down nows, a shared mahi sandwich, and a couple of lime n'coconuts later.....we headed to the beach.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126294520/" title="Tuna Down Now by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3084/312 ... b44794.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tuna Down Now"></a>
Not sure which one to stop at, we saw only one car at Jumbie and decided it was a Jumbie kind of day. We did some snorkeling and a little lounging before heading back to Sunnyledge. Then it was time for naps all around.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126290846/" title="Jumbie by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3199/312 ... 0d330b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Jumbie"></a>
That evening, John and Teresa didn't want to get out, so Matt and I headed to Island Blues. I ordered a painkiller and it was simply enormous. Not only was it really big, I watched her pour the giant glass full of rum and then put a splash of juice on top. Wow. It took me an hour to drink it. While we were there, I got a text that made me really happy. LMG had landed and was now in Coral Bay! Yay!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127106436/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3232/312 ... 22a7bf.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
We headed over to Shipwreck for dinner and just after we arrived, LMG rolled in. After a mini-reunion, we got some drinks and conch fritters. It was so nice to finally be with someone else that photographed their food. I felt like so much less of a freak. I got the fish n'chips and, after photographing it, found that it was excellent as always. We said our goodbyes and agreed to meet at Maho the next day.
Seriously, do the days get any better than these?
Sunday, December 14 - Maho's Frito Lovin' Chickens, BB Jazz, and a Woody's Southern Exposure
Usually Maho is the first beach I hit on any trip, but because we had "plans" this time, Maho had to wait. St. John just isn't St. John for me until I hit Maho. The first thing I always do when I get there is drop my stuff and just walk. I walk from one end to the other and just soak it all in. The beauty of this beach never ceases to amaze me.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125533495/" title="Maho by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/312 ... 3495a9.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Maho"></a>
When Matt and I got down near the green building, I spotted a local guy sitting in the water's edge in his underwear rubbing sand all over his arms. It was kind of weird. Just then I noticed that in a chair pretty close to him was LMG with a look in her eyes that said, "Thank God, I am being rescued....." She said he just strolled over, stripped down, and started rubbing. Neat.
We moved her stuff down to our end of the beach and everyone settled in for some major beach relaxation. How can you not relax at Maho? Aaaaaahhhhhh.....Maho.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125532299/" title="Maho by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/312 ... 1b3c8b.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Maho"></a>
I tried to do some snorkeling, but the visibility was pretty poor, so I stuck to searching for turtles in the middle of the bay. I found several that were patient enough to let me follow along, as well as some rays, but not much more than that. Most of the beach time was spent talking to LMG, floating in the clear water, and dozing in the sun.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125506575/" title="Maho driftin' by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/312 ... 33c28f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Maho driftin'"></a>
There were the usual beach chickens everywhere and they were mighty bold this time. When we pulled out our lunch, Matt thought it would be funny to sneak up and sprinkle Fritos all around our feet. We had freakin' Frito eating chickens EVERYWHERE. LMG kept shooing them with her feet and I had to keep yelling at them to get out of my bag. For the rest of the day, those chickens were convinced we had a Frito cache hidden somewhere under our bodies and they wore us out. Ruth would have had a coronary.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125518571/" title="You stay there and we'll be just fine.... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3262/312 ... 50fcee.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="You stay there and we'll be just fine...."></a>
When we were sure we were getting crispy, we all headed back to our villas for showers, agreeing to meet back at the Beach Bar around 4:00 for jazz. With a backdrop of a beautiful Cruz Bay sunset, we had tuna down now and painkillers with the fantastic company of Ruth, Ron, and LMG. I guess you could call it a "mini" forum gathering, or just good friends having a drink.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126329316/" title="LMG & Me with Ruth and Ron by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/312 ... 9954a7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="LMG & Me with Ruth and Ron"></a>
At one point, I was telling Ruth about my 3 poor bougainvillea plants that I have been nursing along for about 6 years. They are still alive, but they just can't seem to thrive. She then told me about Pete and Marcia naming their hibiscus and bougainvillea Ruth and Ron. So we decided I should name mine Pete, Marcia, and Butkus. Butkus for the one that stays really small, but is kind of cute. Marcia for the one that is the most shapely and manages to pop out a bloom a couple of times a year, making it the prettiest. I decided that the one that is so darn ornery that it won't grow any leaves should be Pete. Maybe it was the product of too many painkillers, but it seemed funny at the time.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125496883/" title="Beach Bar Sunset by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/312 ... 6bde37.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Beach Bar Sunset"></a>
Later that evening, Pia and Les arrived on the ferry, so we got to say a quick hello. They are such nice people. When the drinking was done and we were getting kind of hungry, we thought we'd check out Crazy Cracker. It just didn't grab us so we headed for the Banana Deck. Unfortunately, John and Teresa became mesmerized by the bright and shiny neon of Woody's and we were quickly derailed. Don't get me wrong, I don't dislike Woody's, they actually have pretty great food, it's just not my scene.
However, we had a nice table outside where we could watch the gay male prostitute peddle his wares across the street along with the local drug dealers, so the entertainment was good. The food at Woody's is also pretty good and the drinks are strong. We ordered some bushwackers, shark bites, grouper fingers, and seafood platters. Things at Woody's were pretty calm, so it was very ok.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125495473/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3114/312 ... 18134d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
A couple of bushwackers later, I really had to go. For those of you that haven't been, Woody's has a single unisex bathroom with a door that faces out into the restaurant, although partially obscured by a very short hall. There was a BIG sign on the door, BIG, that said, "PLEASE KNOCK. LOCK IS BROKEN." BIG sign. The door was open, so I headed on in.
I was just sitting there taking care of business when the door was suddenly thrown open. It was Teresa. I looked up and could see Woody's patrons from my seat, realizing that those patrons could also see me in my less than delicate position. What would most people do if they just opened a bathroom door and saw someone sitting on the toilet? Most would immediately shut the door, right? Not Teresa. Not drunk Teresa. She stood there asking me questions and saying, "I thought there were two bathrooms. Where's the other bathroom?" All while I screamed and waved my arms, "Shut the door! Shut the door." She just kept standing there with the door wide open. Finally, she shut the door. Thank G- just then the door opened back up. I'll be damned if she didn't start talking again. Finally, I screamed, "SHUT THE MF DOOR, ,TERESA!" and then....she got mad. At me. Said I hurt her feelings. Well, I am so sorry that I finally got tired of the guy at the table in Woody's eating his conch fritters staring at my naked butt on the toilet and yelled at you and hurt your feelings. Puh-lease.
While Teresa sulked, we headed back to Sunnyledge. When we got home, everyone turned in even though it was only about 8:30. I was too full to sleep. I stayed up and watched Casablanca with Pouncer. It was a perfect end to an (almost) perfect day.
Monday, December 15 - All Good Things Must Come to an End
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125392675/" title="Day Six: A rainbow over Francis by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/312 ... 8bdfcf.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Day Six: A rainbow over Francis"></a>
The weather had been perfect each day of our visit, but on travel day, we woke up to gray skies. After a brief rain shower, we were blessed with a beautiful rainbow stretching across Francis Bay. It was like a sweet goodbye.
We got packed and headed toward Cruz Bay. The Chills (Ben and Lynn) had arrived the day before to do some work at Amorosa. Since would be passing right by on our way into town, they had invited us to stop by and have a look around. First, the Chills are way cool, and Lynn is drop dead gorgeous. Second, that house is amazing. Wow. Now I know how the other half lives. We said "goodbye" to the Chills and headed into Cruz Bay. We did some last minute shopping, said "goodbye" to Ruth and Ron, and had one last meal at the Banana Deck. After a dark and stormy and mahi wrap, we headed to the car ferry.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125390883/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/312 ... 9de02d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
After a short wait, we were on our way. We got to the airport at 4:00 and, with no checked bags and online check-in, we breezed through in about 10 minutes thanks to no line at security. I saw the 60 people piled up in the US Air check-in line and remembered why I do carry on only.
It was finally time to leave. I'm always a little sad when it is time to go home, but I have a peace in my soul knowing that St. John isn't going anywhere. It will still be there when I can come back. It's just a matter of time before I'll be here again.
That thought always makes me smile.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126214382/" title="Bye Bye! Have a nice day! by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3099/312 ... 0f1130.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Bye Bye! Have a nice day!"></a>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N ... 501890571/
The whole enchilada:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N ... 493225727/
Tuesday, December 9 - Travel Day
I know that what you truly want to hear about is my flight down, layovers, car rental, how I packed my suitcase, how many bathing suits I took and whether I prefer a tankini or bikini, carry-on or checked bags, cooler or no, and what I ate at the airport, but I am already pretty darn long winded so how about we just skip all that?
I know many of you don't like Budget, but I have enjoyed a golden run with them so far. Eleven trips, eleven great experiences. Got a brand spankin' new 4-door Wrangler with 200 miles on it and was out of the airport 10 minutes after landing. No joke. I was worried about the car ferry, since some weren't running and I had been hearing horror stories all week, but we pulled up at 5:29 and were ushered onto the 5:30 ferry just before it pulled away.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125389975/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/312 ... 898ec5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
The sun hadn't quite set yet, so I could look across the water and see the jewel of St. John sparkling in the distance. Okay, maybe what I was really seeing was the waning sunlight hitting the enormous expanse of Sirenusa, giant hillside blight that it is, but it sparkled all the same. I was nearly there.
The few hours of evening were spent getting groceries, having a great lobster dinner at Morgan's Mango, and settling into my favorite villa, Sunnyledge.
A storm blew in that night and I fell asleep listening to the rain beat on the roof and the wind rushing through the palms. In my dreams, I could feel my toes in the sand at Maho....island time was here.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126505581/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3133/312 ... b38599.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
Wednesday, December 10 - Catamarans and Jello Shots
The storms of the night did nothing more than fill our cistern and I awoke to a glorious, sunny morning. No matter how many times I see it, the view from Sunnyledge never ceases to take my breath away and this first morning was no exception.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126331862/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/312 ... 6420be.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
Pouncer, loyal villa cat, was sitting outside on the deck begging to be fed. I was happy to see that he was still around and got him his morning goodies. No, I didn't take any new photos of Pouncer on this trip. Frankly, Pouncer has just gotten really fat. Domesticity can do that to a man. No one wants their picture taken when they feel fat.
Today we were meeting Gromit and hubby (and in-laws) to go out on a catamaran with Scubagirl and her crew. Matt and I had (his) newbie friends on this trip, which you will notice that I won't mention much in this report. Why? Because they were a Class A Pain in the A$$ and totally DID NOT GET IT. John was like a morph of Gomer Pyle, Jim Carrey, and Pee Wee Herman on speed and Teresa just whined and complained a lot. I did my best to pretend they weren't there so they don't really figure into my story.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127326206/" title="Views from Annaberg by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3111/312 ... 5e4017.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Views from Annaberg"></a>
We arrived in the Annaberg parking lot at 10:00 a.m. as scheduled, and I was wondering how the heck I was going to know Gromit when I saw her....and just then, the coolest chick in a tie dye t-shirt, long blond pig tails, and a Life is Good hat came strolling down the street. I knew in an instant. GROMIT!! Hugs were shared, introductions were made, and off we were to wait for the dingy. Pretty soon, a dingy driver sporting a "Haven't I Seen You on the Forum?" t-shirt pulled up. That had to be our ride! Ya' think?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126492581/" title="Keith arrives with the dinghy... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3236/312 ... 0e4f0a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Keith arrives with the dinghy..."></a>
It was so unbelievably generous for Scubagirl to share her day with strangers. I can't tell you guys enough what wonderful hosts she and Keith and their friends, Mark and Meredith, were. The generosity of strangers that you meet here on VIOL never ceases to amaze me. They even put up with John, for goodness sake, and for that alone, I am forever grateful. The boat was amazing. They had gotten upgraded to a 46' catamaran because the original boat they had rented was unavailable. Talk about a score. It was huge.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126487763/" title="Sydney, Vicki, & Gromit (tip: if you are the gal with no boobs, don't sit in the middle...) by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/312 ... b86f40.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Sydney, Vicki, & Gromit (tip: if you are the gal with no boobs, don't sit in the middle...)"></a>
We started off with a snorkel around Waterlemon. Okay, we actually started off with drinks, but saying that we drank that early in the morning and then snorkeled makes us sound irresponsible. So I didn't tell you that. We had pool noodles, people. We were perfectly safe. Anyway, the snorkeling was great, as always. I saw many of the usual suspects: turtles, rays, and a nice starfish party. I also saw this:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126481719/" title="Snake-eel....eeeewww..... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/312 ... 67321a.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Snake-eel....eeeewww....."></a>
I have no idea what that is. Could someone smart (insert Liamsaunt or RickG here) please identify that for me. Remember, the extent of my marine knowledge is "blue fish," "yellow fish," "something with spots...." You get the idea.
Snorkeling made us hungry, so it was time for.....you got it.....Gromit's Famous Jello Shots. Folks, let me say, Ms. Gromit does not a plain jello shot make. No, honey, this were top of the line, grade A, all the way jello shots. We had Margarita (garnished with limes and salt no less...), Lemon Drop, Cosmopolitan, and Melon. What did I learn that day? There is ALWAYS room for Jello. Let the slurping begin.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127308858/" title="There's always room for Jello. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3087/312 ... b0508b.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="There's always room for Jello."></a>
Being a jello shot virgin, I had a little trouble getting the hang of it. There was a little too much tongue action necessary to get that up and out of there, but I persisted. A Margarita, a Cosmo, and a Melon later....I was laid up on the "trampoline" where I think I stayed for the rest of the day. Well, except for when I needed another drink.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127306750/" title="Jello shots, Caribbean style... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/312 ... aedb_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Jello shots, Caribbean style..."></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127308502/" title="My first ever jello shot. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3085/312 ... 3fd2_m.jpg" width="240" height="161" alt="My first ever jello shot."></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127305498/" title="Mmmmm....s'good. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/312 ... ce1b_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Mmmmm....s'good."></a>
The day was great. Scubagirl and her crew were awesome. Keith was so nice and their friends were hilarious. Matt and I had a great time spending the day with them. Gromit and her husband were the best. That girl is incredibly cool.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126456239/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/312 ... f0f13f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
As the sun started to set, we knew we better head out and let these nice folks have their dinner in peace. Keith took us back over to shore and we headed back to Sunnyledge to do a quick clean up and head to Lime Inn for all-you-can-eat-shrimp night. The food was good and after a few glasses of water, I think I could actually focus well enough to peel my shrimp. Before heading out, I stopped in at STJ Spice to grab coffee and was surprised to see Ruth there so late. I think she had a newbie in training, so lucky me! I got to say "hi."
After taking much longer than should have been necessary to catch a really fast tree frog that had taken up residence in my bedroom (hey, you try catching a frog after a day of jello shots and 3 platters of shrimp.....), it was time for a good night's sleep.
I fell asleep humming...Watch it wiggle, see it jiggle, cool and smoothy.....J-E-L-L-O.....
Thursday, December 11 - Vie's, Skinny's, and Vicki Down Now
Usually Maho is my first beach day because it is simply my very favorite beach, but it was incredibly windy when we woke up, so we decided to make it Vie's, hoping for calmer waters. It was another beautiful day and we headed east after breakfast. The drive over still fills me with a sense of wonder, no matter how many times I see it. The expansive sea views toward Tortola, glimpses of azure waters cupped in the bays curling in toward the road, and bright pink bougainvillea spilling over fences made the drive to Vie's absolutely delightful.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127126898/" title="Vie's Beach by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/312 ... 2b0d8f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Vie's Beach"></a>
When we got there, we paid our dues and headed to the gate. I have to mention John and Teresa here. When they saw that wire gate, saw the chickens and goats milling around, saw the mini graveyard on the side, and then saw the pile of old boat parts and rusty gas cans that we were about to walk through, the look was simply PRICELESS. Okay, so maybe this wasn't the best choice for a first ever St. John beach, but nonetheless, it made me giggle on the inside. Yes, I am mean that way.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127128892/" title="Yes, this is the way. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3295/312 ... dcbc70.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Yes, this is the way."></a>
The snorkeling at Vie's was good. The water was calm and clear and we saw several turtles, lots of fish, and a pretty good sized nurse shark. I also saw Frosty on the beach. Apparently, he too was sick and tired of the cold and decided he needed a little sun. I was told he wasn't there later in the week....so.....well.....apparently snowmen and the beach don't mix. Bummer for Frosty.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126284689/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3070/312 ... f49324.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
I spent the morning reading a good book under the warm Caribbean sun. It was glorious. The smells of Vie's garlic chicken were wafting through the air and it was making me hungry, but I had Skinny's on the brain, so we opted to pack it up in the early afternoon and head out before we ruined our appetites by stuffing ourselves full of garlic chicken and conch fritters. Did I mention that Teresa hated Vie's beach so much that she spent the entire time sitting at a table reading a book with the chickens at Vie's? No accounting for taste, I suppose.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126278679/" title="Skinny Legs burger. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3221/312 ... b29661.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Skinny Legs burger."></a>
We headed over to Skinny's and passed several lazy donkeys, lots of goats, sheep, and one extremely large goose. I know new things are fun and exciting, but there is such a comfort and ease in the familiar. Skinny's is like that. I love the smelly bathroom. I love the crazy critters running around on the floor. I love the sheer sloppiness of it. And I love, love, love the burgers. It was a coconut swizzle (or three) and a cheeseburger for me, my favorite. There was one new thing I hadn't seen before. We noticed there were all these gallon sized zip log bags hanging from the ceiling and they were filled with water. We asked the waitress what was up. She said they are supposed to keep the flies away, something about not liking their reflection? Yeah, I was wondering if she had one too many sips behind the bar because I had at least 4 flies buzzing around. Um, okay. I think sometimes, it's better to just not ask.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127109274/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/312 ... 0fc621.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
The food came and it was hot and fabulous. The drinks were cold and delicious. By the time we left, I was feeling fine. Probably "too fine" for what I suggested next, "Hey, let's go to the Tourist Trap and get more drinks." We headed that way and found it soon enough. Despite my immediate love for the Tourist Trap, I think it truly sent John and Teresa careening over the edge. To someone "who doesn't get it," it is basically a shack with a bunch of junk, some liquor bottles set up on an outside stand, and some tables under a tarp. To the rest of us, it's pretty cool. Lots of neatness going on, good food (the lobstah roll...mmmmm......), and great drinks. I opted for the signature drink, Larry's Drink Right, Keep Left. I probably should have Drank None, Kept Sober, but it was already too late for that. I Drank More, Kept Drunk. That was some good stuff. So good that I didn't even mind using the Crap Shack, which, no matter how adorable and clever the sign is, is still a port-a-potty with no hand soap.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127105190/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3205/312 ... 00e8_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126274337/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/312 ... bdc4_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126269861/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3254/312 ... 8cc7_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt=""></a>
I was eventually forced away by my traveling companions because Teresa felt the need to look at more souvenir crap that she did not intend to buy. We headed over to Cocolobo so that she could browse and that was when I crashed. This photo cracks me up, because read the address sign behind my head, "I Down."
Yes, I am. I am down. Vicki Down.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127098456/" title="Note the sign "I down." After two coconut swizzles and a drink right, keep left....Vicki down. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/312 ... aa945c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Note the sign "I down." After two coconut swizzles and a drink right, keep left....Vicki down."></a>
Ladies, you now you have had one too many when you don't even try to relax in a ladylike position. This was not Vicki at her finest.
Once Teresa wasted an hour to buy nothing....again....I looked up and saw a familiar smile. GROMIT! Gromit and hubby were stopping by with the in-laws. I had sobered up enough that I was able to give her a hug without drooling on her shirt and we reminded each other that the Jost ferry was at 8:30 the next morning. Yes, we were all headed to Jost as luck would have it.
We said our goodbyes and headed back to Sunnyledge. I needed a nap. Since we were going to be gone to Jost all the next day and night, we broke Vicki's Golden Rule of Eating Out and stayed in for dinner. I learned that turkey sandwiches and Dove bars are pretty good when eaten in front of a beautiful sunset.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125503753/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3241/312 ... 262e37.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
Friday, December 12 - Jost or Bust
I always like to do something new on each trip. This trip was to include our first ever overnight to Jost. Since we were paying a tidy sum for Sunnyledge for that night, we just couldn't bring ourselves to also pay a lot for the night on Jost, so we had opted for a cabin at Ivan's.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127070266/" title="Day Three: Deli Grotto breakfast. by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/312 ... 01ceac.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Day Three: Deli Grotto breakfast."></a>
We headed to Cruz Bay early and snagged a parking spot at the National Park Dock. Score! We had time to run into Deli Grotto for breakfast before heading to the ferry. Gromit and Mr. Gromit showed up shortly after and away we all went. You know how you usually board right there at the National Park Dock? Well they lined us up and walked us aaaallllll the way over to the ferry dock to board....because THAT dock is SECURE. Yeah. Parading us through Cruz Bay was very, very secure. Whatever. On the walk over, the ferry operator took an IMMEDIATELY liking to my girl Gromit and would not leave her alone. He loved him some Gromit.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126193511/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/312 ... c64f6a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
The ferry ride was short and uneventful and in no time, we pulled up to Jost and made the quick trip past the customs counter. We had rented a car and it was nowhere in sight. The taxi driver offered to call and someone from Paradise was there in 2 seconds flat. Gromit and Mr. Gromit headed on over to White Bay to chill while we went to do the car paperwork. After a quick stop at the Paradise office, we headed to White Bay.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127049626/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/312 ... 735d_b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
First stop: Soggy Dollar. We found the Gromits having breakfast and we stopped for a second before ADHD Vicki had to jump up and start running around with the camera. Matt and I strolled the beach to explore and let me get some photos before I started drinking and got too stupid to work the camera. Once that happens, Matt somehow takes over the camera and the memory card becomes mysteriously filled with photos of my butt. Gee....I wonder how that happens.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126219547/" title="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3100/312 ... c50b86.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Afterwards, we all agreed to settle into some rented chairs on the beach. Mr. Gromit had his eyes set on a particular hammock, but unfortunately, there was a crazy drunk guy in it. He could tell Mr. Gromit wanted it and just kept taunting him, as Gromit and I watched. He'd start to get up and then he'd flop back down. He'd ease away for a second and then he'd turn and get back in. Mr. Gromit was like a big cat waiting for his moment, though. He remained calm, cool, and collected. He knew his time would come. Eventually, the guy got too relaxed and stood up to stroll away for a minute. Mr. Gromit pounced and won the hammock war. Of course, the guy sat about 10 feet away for the rest of the morning giving Mr. Gromit the stink eye, but he was sleeping peacefully and did not care. He had hammock victory, what else mattered?
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127042846/" title="Mr. Gromit, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/312 ... 82f65c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Mr. Gromit, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Matt and I went over to the Soggy Dollar for a first round of painkillers and Mic mixed them up just right, with a huge smile and a great laugh. We all settled into our chairs, except John and Teresa who were hiding off in the shade somewhere lest the sun actually touch their skin and turn them to dust. After many painkillers from Soggy Dollar, bushwackers from One Love, and thank goodness....water from somewhere.....we decided to start moving in the general direction of lunch.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126216501/" title="The perfect painkiller by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3195/312 ... 2d7c06.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="The perfect painkiller"></a>
Second stop: Ivan's. All six of us piled into our Kia and away we went. We got a little distracted from lunch and stopped off at Ivan's for bananawhackers (hey, we had already had a bushwacker, it was only fair...you know...equal opportunity and all that....). While we were there, we ran into Ivan. I had strict instructions from Designbyroe to give him a hug, so I walked up to him and said, "Are you Ivan?" "I hope so, I am wearing his hat today." "Well, Rosi sent me with a big hug." I gave him his hug and he said many kind words about Rosi. Then I said, "We are staying with you tonight." "With me?" he said. He looked at me, looked puzzled, looked around at the six of us, then held up his hands about six inches apart and said, "But my bed is only this big."
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126203801/" title="Ivan's, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/312 ... 2b389a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Ivan's, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
Third stop: Foxy's. We were officially hungry at this point and the roti was calling. We piled back into the super Kia and headed over to Great Harbor. We got to meet Foxy, played with Taboo, and ordered some lunch. Oh yeah, and had some more drinks. I can't remember the name of what I had...a sleezy breeze or something like that. It was good. I think. Gromit and I ordered the chicken roti and it was stupendous.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126193835/" title="Yay, VIOL! by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/312 ... 171498.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Yay, VIOL!"></a>
Foxy told us his "island dog" joke (is there anyone who hasn't heard it?), which was funny but we weren't really sure whether we were allowed to laugh at or not. We did some shopping and took a stroll down the sandy "main street" of Great Harbor.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126202497/" title="Gromit, Foxy, & Me by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3233/312 ... 552dcf.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Gromit, Foxy, & Me"></a>
Tip: don't try to swing on a tire swing after 3 painkillers, a bushwacker, a bananawacker, and a sleezy breeze. Just sayin'.
Sadly, it was time for Gromit and Mr. Gromit to catch the ferry back to St. John. We dropped them off with well wishes and goodbye hugs. We then headed back over to Ivan's to check out our cabins.
[SIDEBAR: Okay, I know many of you are interested in doing the overnight at the cabin thing and have asked for a report. I will be totally honest, then you make up your own mind based on your tolerance level. Pros: It's cheap (about $50). Cons: The cabins are pretty uncomfortable, which would be okay for anyone who is a pretty easy sleeper, but not for light sleepers. The beds are very small, very hard, and you only get a sheet. They are not "airtight" so you will have mosquitoes inside. The bathroom is in a separate building and is pretty minimal as far as facilities go. Am I sorry I stayed in the cabin? No. I am not a princess. For me, it was fine. It wasn't hot. The cabin and bed were clean. Even though the door wouldn't shut, no bugs bothered me. I didn't mind the bathroom or the cold shower. Seriously, it wasn't that bad. Would I stay in the cabin again? No. Only one reason, though. The bed was the only thing that was a deal breaker for me. It was simply uncomfortable and I am a very light sleeper. I was awake all night because I couldn't get comfortable. I would opt to pay more next time and maybe get a little more comfortable bed.]
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126191385/" title="Kick'n back with Ivan... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/312 ... 81a7de.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Kick'n back with Ivan..."></a>
Now, on with our story. We were shown to our cabin and of course, it was the farthest cabin from the freakin' bathroom. Well, what are you gonna' do? The cabin was basic, but decent, and we plopped our stuff inside. There was no lock and the door wouldn't even shut all the way but not once did I feel unsafe about leaving my stuff in there unattended. It's just that kind of place. I ran down to the bathroom for a quick rinse in the shower and then we enjoyed a little down time.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127020552/" title="Seriously....I am just relaxing..... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3216/312 ... 54cf_b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Seriously....I am just relaxing....."></a>
After a bit, we drove over past Little Harbor to see if we could find the bubbly pool. After a very short walk, we found it. I immediately wished that I had my suit back on, because it was pretty cool. Well, that just leaves something for next time, I suppose. Of course, John and Teresa sat in the car while Matt and I went to the bubbly pool. Yes. Sat. In. The. Car.
Freaks.
We then headed back over to Foxy's for a pre-dinner drink and just to watch the bustle of early evening activity as it started to course through Great Harbor. People were starting to mill around, glasses were clinking at the bars lining the sandy lane and people sat in hammocks with cold beer, Taboo ran up and down the road with her tennis ball, and music started drifting on the breeze. When we started to get a little hungry, we headed to Sidney's Peace and Love.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126203447/" title="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/312 ... c0c1f0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
I had heard rumors of the lobster at Sidney's, so I had to go. Wow. Was this THE PLACE. The open air building sits right on the water. This was the night of the full moon, so the moon began to rise in the sky directly in front of the restaurant. When we walked in, a lovely lady asked if we were there for the lobster.
Does a one-legged duck swim in a circle?
She pointed us toward the bar and told us how it worked. "Pour your own. If you can drink it, you can keep it. Write it down on the pad." I got behind the bar and mixed up Vicki's Painkiller and after everyone took a sip, I was promptly fired as head bartender because they tasted very much like gasoline with nutmeg. In what seemed like mere minutes, she came back out with HUGE platters of lobster for each of us. Then she returned and brought out bowls of potato salad, peas n'rice, and cole slaw for the table. OMG. It was incredible. The meal and drinks came to $50 per person. Not a bad deal in my book.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127010434/" title="Try my painkiller... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/312 ... bbb5_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Try my painkiller..."></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126177671/" title="Sidney's Peace & Love by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/312 ... 19e8_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Sidney's Peace & Love"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126177465/" title="Sidney's Peace & Love by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/312 ... aca7_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="Sidney's Peace & Love"></a>
After a perfect meal, we headed back to Ivan's to do our best imitation of sleep. As uncomfortable as the beds were, that was simply the best we could hope for. I lay there awake for at least 2 hours before I started dozing fitfully. I'd sleep for about an hour and then wake up. This went on until about 4:00 a.m.
That's when I had to pee.
I lay there considering my options. I could lay in the bed and hope my bladder could endure another 2 hours, or I could try to make my way down the looooonnnnnggggg sandy path, littered with sheets of plywood and old boat parts and big rusty things that looked like a tetanus shot waiting to happen, in the pitch black dark (no lights out there), not really remembering which building the bathroom was and not knowing where the bathroom light was. I opted to lay in bed. I waited. I waited. I waited. I waited.
Holy sh*t. I waited too long. Knowing it was do or die time, I bolted out of bed. Having no time to spare, I ran out of the cabin barefoot, in a tank top and my underwear, in the dark, and it was RAINING......I bolted at lightning speed toward the bathroom wondering how the heck I was going to find the light in time (you know, to make sure the seat was down, there were no frogs on it, etc.), when I rounded the last curve and TA DA!!!!! A gazillion motion lights blared on, showing me in all my wet t-shirted and underweared glory. The good news is, I don't think anyone was awake. The bad news is, this would not be the only time I got inadvertently exposed during the trip.
Saturday, December 13 - Jumbie, Island Blue's Big-A Painkiller, and LMG
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126316970/" title="Jost sunrise by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/312 ... cce355.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Jost sunrise"></a>
Everyone got moving pretty early, because no one slept well. We were out of Ivan's before 8:00 a.m. We headed into Great Harbor and hit Christine's Bakery. We walked inside and there was Ivan. He showed me where the coffee was, and I have to admit, I thought, "This ain't no Starbucks." There was a coffee pot, some very damp sugar, and a can of condensed milk on a table. However, I am no princess, so I poured my coffee. If it's good enough for Ivan, it's good enough for me. That was, quite honestly, a damn good cup of coffee. Damn good. The smell of baking bread was drifting out of the impeccably clean kitchen. I got a huge hunk of moist banana bread and Matt got some sort of pastry. They were both great. We sat outside on the breezy porch and had breakfast until it was time to take the car back. We turned in the car, headed to the ferry, and made the trip back to St. John.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126314788/" title="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3264/312 ... 8dee9f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke"></a>
It took a little longer going back, since the ferry had to stop off in Tortola, but we were back in Cruz Bay by 10:00. Teresa had a bug up her butt about finding more souvenirs that she would not buy, so we told her we'd stay in town until 1:00. We went our separate ways. After a tad of shopping and a visit to Ruth and Ron for a spice stock up and more "hellos," Matt and I plopped down at the Beach Bar for the morning. Two tuna down nows, a shared mahi sandwich, and a couple of lime n'coconuts later.....we headed to the beach.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126294520/" title="Tuna Down Now by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3084/312 ... b44794.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tuna Down Now"></a>
Not sure which one to stop at, we saw only one car at Jumbie and decided it was a Jumbie kind of day. We did some snorkeling and a little lounging before heading back to Sunnyledge. Then it was time for naps all around.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126290846/" title="Jumbie by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3199/312 ... 0d330b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Jumbie"></a>
That evening, John and Teresa didn't want to get out, so Matt and I headed to Island Blues. I ordered a painkiller and it was simply enormous. Not only was it really big, I watched her pour the giant glass full of rum and then put a splash of juice on top. Wow. It took me an hour to drink it. While we were there, I got a text that made me really happy. LMG had landed and was now in Coral Bay! Yay!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3127106436/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3232/312 ... 22a7bf.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a>
We headed over to Shipwreck for dinner and just after we arrived, LMG rolled in. After a mini-reunion, we got some drinks and conch fritters. It was so nice to finally be with someone else that photographed their food. I felt like so much less of a freak. I got the fish n'chips and, after photographing it, found that it was excellent as always. We said our goodbyes and agreed to meet at Maho the next day.
Seriously, do the days get any better than these?
Sunday, December 14 - Maho's Frito Lovin' Chickens, BB Jazz, and a Woody's Southern Exposure
Usually Maho is the first beach I hit on any trip, but because we had "plans" this time, Maho had to wait. St. John just isn't St. John for me until I hit Maho. The first thing I always do when I get there is drop my stuff and just walk. I walk from one end to the other and just soak it all in. The beauty of this beach never ceases to amaze me.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125533495/" title="Maho by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/312 ... 3495a9.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Maho"></a>
When Matt and I got down near the green building, I spotted a local guy sitting in the water's edge in his underwear rubbing sand all over his arms. It was kind of weird. Just then I noticed that in a chair pretty close to him was LMG with a look in her eyes that said, "Thank God, I am being rescued....." She said he just strolled over, stripped down, and started rubbing. Neat.
We moved her stuff down to our end of the beach and everyone settled in for some major beach relaxation. How can you not relax at Maho? Aaaaaahhhhhh.....Maho.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125532299/" title="Maho by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/312 ... 1b3c8b.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Maho"></a>
I tried to do some snorkeling, but the visibility was pretty poor, so I stuck to searching for turtles in the middle of the bay. I found several that were patient enough to let me follow along, as well as some rays, but not much more than that. Most of the beach time was spent talking to LMG, floating in the clear water, and dozing in the sun.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125506575/" title="Maho driftin' by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/312 ... 33c28f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Maho driftin'"></a>
There were the usual beach chickens everywhere and they were mighty bold this time. When we pulled out our lunch, Matt thought it would be funny to sneak up and sprinkle Fritos all around our feet. We had freakin' Frito eating chickens EVERYWHERE. LMG kept shooing them with her feet and I had to keep yelling at them to get out of my bag. For the rest of the day, those chickens were convinced we had a Frito cache hidden somewhere under our bodies and they wore us out. Ruth would have had a coronary.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125518571/" title="You stay there and we'll be just fine.... by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3262/312 ... 50fcee.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="You stay there and we'll be just fine...."></a>
When we were sure we were getting crispy, we all headed back to our villas for showers, agreeing to meet back at the Beach Bar around 4:00 for jazz. With a backdrop of a beautiful Cruz Bay sunset, we had tuna down now and painkillers with the fantastic company of Ruth, Ron, and LMG. I guess you could call it a "mini" forum gathering, or just good friends having a drink.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126329316/" title="LMG & Me with Ruth and Ron by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/312 ... 9954a7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="LMG & Me with Ruth and Ron"></a>
At one point, I was telling Ruth about my 3 poor bougainvillea plants that I have been nursing along for about 6 years. They are still alive, but they just can't seem to thrive. She then told me about Pete and Marcia naming their hibiscus and bougainvillea Ruth and Ron. So we decided I should name mine Pete, Marcia, and Butkus. Butkus for the one that stays really small, but is kind of cute. Marcia for the one that is the most shapely and manages to pop out a bloom a couple of times a year, making it the prettiest. I decided that the one that is so darn ornery that it won't grow any leaves should be Pete. Maybe it was the product of too many painkillers, but it seemed funny at the time.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125496883/" title="Beach Bar Sunset by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/312 ... 6bde37.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Beach Bar Sunset"></a>
Later that evening, Pia and Les arrived on the ferry, so we got to say a quick hello. They are such nice people. When the drinking was done and we were getting kind of hungry, we thought we'd check out Crazy Cracker. It just didn't grab us so we headed for the Banana Deck. Unfortunately, John and Teresa became mesmerized by the bright and shiny neon of Woody's and we were quickly derailed. Don't get me wrong, I don't dislike Woody's, they actually have pretty great food, it's just not my scene.
However, we had a nice table outside where we could watch the gay male prostitute peddle his wares across the street along with the local drug dealers, so the entertainment was good. The food at Woody's is also pretty good and the drinks are strong. We ordered some bushwackers, shark bites, grouper fingers, and seafood platters. Things at Woody's were pretty calm, so it was very ok.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125495473/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3114/312 ... 18134d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
A couple of bushwackers later, I really had to go. For those of you that haven't been, Woody's has a single unisex bathroom with a door that faces out into the restaurant, although partially obscured by a very short hall. There was a BIG sign on the door, BIG, that said, "PLEASE KNOCK. LOCK IS BROKEN." BIG sign. The door was open, so I headed on in.
I was just sitting there taking care of business when the door was suddenly thrown open. It was Teresa. I looked up and could see Woody's patrons from my seat, realizing that those patrons could also see me in my less than delicate position. What would most people do if they just opened a bathroom door and saw someone sitting on the toilet? Most would immediately shut the door, right? Not Teresa. Not drunk Teresa. She stood there asking me questions and saying, "I thought there were two bathrooms. Where's the other bathroom?" All while I screamed and waved my arms, "Shut the door! Shut the door." She just kept standing there with the door wide open. Finally, she shut the door. Thank G- just then the door opened back up. I'll be damned if she didn't start talking again. Finally, I screamed, "SHUT THE MF DOOR, ,TERESA!" and then....she got mad. At me. Said I hurt her feelings. Well, I am so sorry that I finally got tired of the guy at the table in Woody's eating his conch fritters staring at my naked butt on the toilet and yelled at you and hurt your feelings. Puh-lease.
While Teresa sulked, we headed back to Sunnyledge. When we got home, everyone turned in even though it was only about 8:30. I was too full to sleep. I stayed up and watched Casablanca with Pouncer. It was a perfect end to an (almost) perfect day.
Monday, December 15 - All Good Things Must Come to an End
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125392675/" title="Day Six: A rainbow over Francis by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3109/312 ... 8bdfcf.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Day Six: A rainbow over Francis"></a>
The weather had been perfect each day of our visit, but on travel day, we woke up to gray skies. After a brief rain shower, we were blessed with a beautiful rainbow stretching across Francis Bay. It was like a sweet goodbye.
We got packed and headed toward Cruz Bay. The Chills (Ben and Lynn) had arrived the day before to do some work at Amorosa. Since would be passing right by on our way into town, they had invited us to stop by and have a look around. First, the Chills are way cool, and Lynn is drop dead gorgeous. Second, that house is amazing. Wow. Now I know how the other half lives. We said "goodbye" to the Chills and headed into Cruz Bay. We did some last minute shopping, said "goodbye" to Ruth and Ron, and had one last meal at the Banana Deck. After a dark and stormy and mahi wrap, we headed to the car ferry.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3125390883/" title="Untitled by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/312 ... 9de02d.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt=""></a>
After a short wait, we were on our way. We got to the airport at 4:00 and, with no checked bags and online check-in, we breezed through in about 10 minutes thanks to no line at security. I saw the 60 people piled up in the US Air check-in line and remembered why I do carry on only.
It was finally time to leave. I'm always a little sad when it is time to go home, but I have a peace in my soul knowing that St. John isn't going anywhere. It will still be there when I can come back. It's just a matter of time before I'll be here again.
That thought always makes me smile.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42427255@N00/3126214382/" title="Bye Bye! Have a nice day! by Vicki_H, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3099/312 ... 0f1130.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Bye Bye! Have a nice day!"></a>
Great stuff Vicki How the heck did ya pick those guys to vacation with ya. Nothin worse than havin someone be a downer on vacation, sounds as you handled it well though 
Oh my honey would have cut me off for a month if I had done the frito chicken feeding. I feed a Pearly Eyed Thrasher and I get smacked.
Heres to being irresponsible cheers
Oh my honey would have cut me off for a month if I had done the frito chicken feeding. I feed a Pearly Eyed Thrasher and I get smacked.Heres to being irresponsible cheers
Traveling with friends can certainly make or break things, can't it? Sounds like you made the best of it, but given your recent Bahamas trip with the same folks, you guys *might* want to consider a solo trip... or new friends... or just hanging with viol folks, since we've clearly shown ourselves to be more fun than the average person.
Glad you got your St. John fix. Yeah for pictures! And lots of fun drinks.
Glad you got your St. John fix. Yeah for pictures! And lots of fun drinks.
Vicki, I haven't read this yet, but Christine has been hollering down the hallway to where I'm wrapping presents as she laughs, snorts, chuckles, spews, bangs on tables and guffaws. I am looking forward to reading it, once I surface from present wrapping hell. I hope the picture of you peeing at Woody's has not been taken down by the time I get to it. That's something I haven't seen yet.
Keep the faith. I'll be back to read after another dozen boxes wrapped.
Cheers, RickG
Keep the faith. I'll be back to read after another dozen boxes wrapped.
Cheers, RickG
Last edited by RickG on Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
S/V Echoes - Coral Bay - St. John, VI
Vicki - Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous! LOL funny!
I was INTERRPUTED on more than one occasion...by husband and child, but after a couple of swats on the butt (for the husband) evil glares, loud sighs and sharp words, such as "let me get back to this Trip Report or I'll serve YOU for dinner" (for both of them) they finally got the message.
Weren't J&T the friends from last July's trip to Hell, I mean, the Out Islands? I sort of recognied T's face - though I must say this time she reminded me less of Rocky Balboa and more of Jamie Lee Curtis.
Thanks for the stories, photos, and laughs.
I was INTERRPUTED on more than one occasion...by husband and child, but after a couple of swats on the butt (for the husband) evil glares, loud sighs and sharp words, such as "let me get back to this Trip Report or I'll serve YOU for dinner" (for both of them) they finally got the message.
Weren't J&T the friends from last July's trip to Hell, I mean, the Out Islands? I sort of recognied T's face - though I must say this time she reminded me less of Rocky Balboa and more of Jamie Lee Curtis.
Thanks for the stories, photos, and laughs.
Great trip report, as always.
We went down with friends 3 years ago, and they sound a lot like yours. We were NOT on the same page despite being very upfront prior to the trip, oh well!
I had to comment as your description of Vie's is exactly what we love about it!
thanks for the good read. happy holidays!
We went down with friends 3 years ago, and they sound a lot like yours. We were NOT on the same page despite being very upfront prior to the trip, oh well!
I had to comment as your description of Vie's is exactly what we love about it!
thanks for the good read. happy holidays!