usvi-on-line
Trip Report, Part IV: Lion in Da Sun
Trip Report, Part IV: Lion in Da Sun
PART IV: LION IN DA SUN
I love a good boat ride. I feel most at home when cruising at a high rate of speed across a large body of water. Lake, ocean, river, power, sail, it doesn't really matter to me. I mean, I'd always rather be in the Caribbean if given a choice, but Lake Lanier will do in a pinch.
The last time we traveled with this group (to St. Martin in 2005), we took a day trip on a cigarette speed boat to Anguilla. It was a wonderful day, but that part of the Caribbean lacks something which the Virgin Islands have in spades: surrounding islands to give some perspective and variation.
I didn't really do a lot of research before we chose our charter. I'd heard good things about Lion in Da Sun, the guys looked around our age and the price was right for six people. I called them when we got on island and selected an open day (yet another bonus of the off season). If you travel with a group, please look into a private charter if you are thinking of doing a BVI day trip. If you have six people, the cost is the exact same as doing a large trip such as Breakaway. It's a great deal, and you receive a highly personalized day.
So, on with the fun. We arrive at the National Park Dock around 8:30 AM (maybe a few minutes late) and Lion in Da Sun is there waiting for us. Our captain, Josh, introduces himself and we proceed to load up the beer and breakfast (not beer for breakfast - not yet). We handle the business part of the trip and Josh asks where we want to go.
I told him Chicken Roti and White Bay. Besides that, it was up to him. I was informed the marine conditions were "perfect," so we decided to hit the Indians and the Caves first, then we'd see where the day took us.
Since we have a full boat of adults, Josh stops the boat just out of Cruz Bay to explain the tale of how "Lovango" got its name. If you don't know the tale, just turn "Lovango" into three words (removing the softening effect of the West Indies accent) and you should be able to figure things out. If not, you probably don't want the story. Moving on...
We cruise the coastline of St. John and stop to look at the usuals: Peter Bay, Rock Monster, Cinnamon, Maho, etc. We see lots to turtles and then Josh stops at one of his favorite bays on St. John, way off the East End:
This photo was taken with my cheap point and shoot, and has not been altered in any way. I've been fortunate enough to see a lot of beautiful water in my time, but this beats all I've seen. Truly a beautiful spot, filled with sea turtles, pelicans and water bluer than even my imagination could conjure.
As we cruise towards Tortola to clear immigration, I am struck by how ridiculously calm the waters are. The sky is brilliantly blue, and the ocean is the flattest I've ever seen it in my life. This is why you risk the Caribbean in October. If you get lucky, you win big.
Of course, if you don't, you spend the week battling Hurricane Omar. It's just one giant roll of the dice. I lost my butt the last time I went to Vegas, so I figured the gambling gods owed me one.
After checking in at Tortola, we head towards Norman Island and the Caves. Some random shots from that ride:
As we race towards Norman Island at near top speed, Josh slows as we pass the Indians. He was going to wait until after the Caves to take us there, but explains that the conditions are so perfect right now that he'd hate to miss this window. Dave jumps in first and pops right back up, spitting out his snorkel as he says, simply, succinctly and appropriately: "WOW."
The whole group, including our captain, jumps in and starts our clockwise swim around the Indians. We had the place practically to ourselves, with only three bareboat charter boats for company. If you have never had the opportunity to snorkel the Indians, you should make it a priority on your next trip. They are a series of craggy rocks rising sharply out of the ocean floor, and the health of the coral below is as magical as it is unusual.
Beneath the surface, bright purple fan corals wave at you by the hundreds, large, healthy yellow elkhorn corals rise from the rocks and fish of every color surround you. It was really something... I honestly lack words to describe how beautiful it was. I've yet to find on a snorkel experience on St. John (or its Cays) that even comes close to comparing.
I love St. John, but from what I've seen at Camanoe (on our Breakaway trip in 2007) and the Indians, the BVI snorkeling is superior.
After our mind-blowing snorkel, we head to the Caves, snorkel around some more, say hi to the large barracuda hanging out by the mooring balls, and then try to decide "what next?" It's still early (just before 11:00) but it's definitely beer o'clock. We crack open some Presidentes, take some photos of the Caves:
... And then Josh says the magical words that mark the beginning of the end of our sobriety: "How about the Willy T?'
Well, how about it.
We head over and jump aboard just as the Willy T. is opening for business. I've always wanted to go to the "boat bar," and the Painkillers don't disappoint. We hang out for a couple... or a few... and take the time to peruse the bar's "family album," at our good Captain's insistence. Fortunately, not being a gullible sort, I had a pretty good idea of what to expect, but I do believe Design Chick was slightly aghast.
I don't have any pictures of the Willy T., because we decided to switch to video. I won't be sharing that video with anyone else outside of our little group. There was no free t-shirt earning (so get your mind up out the gutter), but it's embarrassing enough nonetheless.
By this time, lunch is past due. Why do the best days always go the fastest? I am dying for some chicken roti, and Josh swears that Foxy's makes the best. We pull up and Foxy's looks like a ghost town, except for Foxy himself and a couple of his sons. We talk for a while and learn he's a supporter of John McCain when one of his naughty children gets my husband to ask him, "so how 'bout that Obama?"
After a while, we end up walking down the street a bit...
... and finally end up at Ali Baba's.
Where we're happy to see someone supports our Tarheels:
We order chicken roti all around, and while we waiting for our food the clouds roll in over St. John. Our little island is shrouded in rain, and Dave and I go out for a better look:
After a very delicious lunch of chicken roti with mango chutney (my taste buds quiver just thinking about it), we board Lion in Da Sun and head over to White Bay, but not before Josh regales us with his version of Foxy's version of how Jost Van Dyke got its name.
We pull up to White Bay and our friends ask "is this Spring Break?" I swear, White Bay must have had more tourists on it that day than the whole of St. John. It's completely hopping, and some folks are straight tore up for 3:00 in the afternoon. We later realize that a huge group of 20-somethings from St. Thomas are making the most of their day off, and it all starts to make sense. Can someone remind me again why I failed to waste my early 20s in the Virgin Islands?
We go up to the bar at Soggy Dollar and order our painkillers. I ask the bartender (who is working hard at this point) if I can take her picture as she pours our drinks, and she informs me "girl, you are workin' me." (she clearly had me pegged.) But then, ever genial as the BVI inhabitants tend to be, she wipes her forehead and gives me a big smile:
Soon we have painkillers in hand and are sitting in those famous white chairs, taking bets on which of the St. Thomas girls playing football are going to bust face-first into the sand. I think we all won.
We enjoy some time just hanging around, but eventually it comes clear that our day is winding to a close. We buy obligatory souvenirs from the shop (remembering to ask for help with those t-shirts) and reluctantly board Lion in Da Sun to head back home. We enjoy a nice, near sunset ride, the earlier rains having blown over. We do a little tour around some of the cays before heading back to check in with C&I.
We sadly unload our stuff and say goodbye to our Captain.
Why do the best things always have to end?
We head back to the villa and spend hours in the pool, expending the last of our energy (and who am I kidding, the last of our buzz). Eventually someone decides to cook burgers, and we eat and collapse.
It was a happy day. And I go to sleep resolving that I will get out on the water again before we leave.
I love a good boat ride. I feel most at home when cruising at a high rate of speed across a large body of water. Lake, ocean, river, power, sail, it doesn't really matter to me. I mean, I'd always rather be in the Caribbean if given a choice, but Lake Lanier will do in a pinch.
The last time we traveled with this group (to St. Martin in 2005), we took a day trip on a cigarette speed boat to Anguilla. It was a wonderful day, but that part of the Caribbean lacks something which the Virgin Islands have in spades: surrounding islands to give some perspective and variation.
I didn't really do a lot of research before we chose our charter. I'd heard good things about Lion in Da Sun, the guys looked around our age and the price was right for six people. I called them when we got on island and selected an open day (yet another bonus of the off season). If you travel with a group, please look into a private charter if you are thinking of doing a BVI day trip. If you have six people, the cost is the exact same as doing a large trip such as Breakaway. It's a great deal, and you receive a highly personalized day.
So, on with the fun. We arrive at the National Park Dock around 8:30 AM (maybe a few minutes late) and Lion in Da Sun is there waiting for us. Our captain, Josh, introduces himself and we proceed to load up the beer and breakfast (not beer for breakfast - not yet). We handle the business part of the trip and Josh asks where we want to go.
I told him Chicken Roti and White Bay. Besides that, it was up to him. I was informed the marine conditions were "perfect," so we decided to hit the Indians and the Caves first, then we'd see where the day took us.
Since we have a full boat of adults, Josh stops the boat just out of Cruz Bay to explain the tale of how "Lovango" got its name. If you don't know the tale, just turn "Lovango" into three words (removing the softening effect of the West Indies accent) and you should be able to figure things out. If not, you probably don't want the story. Moving on...
We cruise the coastline of St. John and stop to look at the usuals: Peter Bay, Rock Monster, Cinnamon, Maho, etc. We see lots to turtles and then Josh stops at one of his favorite bays on St. John, way off the East End:
This photo was taken with my cheap point and shoot, and has not been altered in any way. I've been fortunate enough to see a lot of beautiful water in my time, but this beats all I've seen. Truly a beautiful spot, filled with sea turtles, pelicans and water bluer than even my imagination could conjure.
As we cruise towards Tortola to clear immigration, I am struck by how ridiculously calm the waters are. The sky is brilliantly blue, and the ocean is the flattest I've ever seen it in my life. This is why you risk the Caribbean in October. If you get lucky, you win big.
Of course, if you don't, you spend the week battling Hurricane Omar. It's just one giant roll of the dice. I lost my butt the last time I went to Vegas, so I figured the gambling gods owed me one.
After checking in at Tortola, we head towards Norman Island and the Caves. Some random shots from that ride:
As we race towards Norman Island at near top speed, Josh slows as we pass the Indians. He was going to wait until after the Caves to take us there, but explains that the conditions are so perfect right now that he'd hate to miss this window. Dave jumps in first and pops right back up, spitting out his snorkel as he says, simply, succinctly and appropriately: "WOW."
The whole group, including our captain, jumps in and starts our clockwise swim around the Indians. We had the place practically to ourselves, with only three bareboat charter boats for company. If you have never had the opportunity to snorkel the Indians, you should make it a priority on your next trip. They are a series of craggy rocks rising sharply out of the ocean floor, and the health of the coral below is as magical as it is unusual.
Beneath the surface, bright purple fan corals wave at you by the hundreds, large, healthy yellow elkhorn corals rise from the rocks and fish of every color surround you. It was really something... I honestly lack words to describe how beautiful it was. I've yet to find on a snorkel experience on St. John (or its Cays) that even comes close to comparing.
I love St. John, but from what I've seen at Camanoe (on our Breakaway trip in 2007) and the Indians, the BVI snorkeling is superior.
After our mind-blowing snorkel, we head to the Caves, snorkel around some more, say hi to the large barracuda hanging out by the mooring balls, and then try to decide "what next?" It's still early (just before 11:00) but it's definitely beer o'clock. We crack open some Presidentes, take some photos of the Caves:
... And then Josh says the magical words that mark the beginning of the end of our sobriety: "How about the Willy T?'
Well, how about it.
We head over and jump aboard just as the Willy T. is opening for business. I've always wanted to go to the "boat bar," and the Painkillers don't disappoint. We hang out for a couple... or a few... and take the time to peruse the bar's "family album," at our good Captain's insistence. Fortunately, not being a gullible sort, I had a pretty good idea of what to expect, but I do believe Design Chick was slightly aghast.
I don't have any pictures of the Willy T., because we decided to switch to video. I won't be sharing that video with anyone else outside of our little group. There was no free t-shirt earning (so get your mind up out the gutter), but it's embarrassing enough nonetheless.
By this time, lunch is past due. Why do the best days always go the fastest? I am dying for some chicken roti, and Josh swears that Foxy's makes the best. We pull up and Foxy's looks like a ghost town, except for Foxy himself and a couple of his sons. We talk for a while and learn he's a supporter of John McCain when one of his naughty children gets my husband to ask him, "so how 'bout that Obama?"
After a while, we end up walking down the street a bit...
... and finally end up at Ali Baba's.
Where we're happy to see someone supports our Tarheels:
We order chicken roti all around, and while we waiting for our food the clouds roll in over St. John. Our little island is shrouded in rain, and Dave and I go out for a better look:
After a very delicious lunch of chicken roti with mango chutney (my taste buds quiver just thinking about it), we board Lion in Da Sun and head over to White Bay, but not before Josh regales us with his version of Foxy's version of how Jost Van Dyke got its name.
We pull up to White Bay and our friends ask "is this Spring Break?" I swear, White Bay must have had more tourists on it that day than the whole of St. John. It's completely hopping, and some folks are straight tore up for 3:00 in the afternoon. We later realize that a huge group of 20-somethings from St. Thomas are making the most of their day off, and it all starts to make sense. Can someone remind me again why I failed to waste my early 20s in the Virgin Islands?
We go up to the bar at Soggy Dollar and order our painkillers. I ask the bartender (who is working hard at this point) if I can take her picture as she pours our drinks, and she informs me "girl, you are workin' me." (she clearly had me pegged.) But then, ever genial as the BVI inhabitants tend to be, she wipes her forehead and gives me a big smile:
Soon we have painkillers in hand and are sitting in those famous white chairs, taking bets on which of the St. Thomas girls playing football are going to bust face-first into the sand. I think we all won.
We enjoy some time just hanging around, but eventually it comes clear that our day is winding to a close. We buy obligatory souvenirs from the shop (remembering to ask for help with those t-shirts) and reluctantly board Lion in Da Sun to head back home. We enjoy a nice, near sunset ride, the earlier rains having blown over. We do a little tour around some of the cays before heading back to check in with C&I.
We sadly unload our stuff and say goodbye to our Captain.
Why do the best things always have to end?
We head back to the villa and spend hours in the pool, expending the last of our energy (and who am I kidding, the last of our buzz). Eventually someone decides to cook burgers, and we eat and collapse.
It was a happy day. And I go to sleep resolving that I will get out on the water again before we leave.
-
ClevelandDave
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:51 pm
- Location: Cleveland
-
msgcolleen
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:33 am
- Location: Allen, Texas
Thanks for the report and all your fun pics! Looks like you guys had a blast!
And oh yes, I remember the rain shower that same day when we were on our day sail! We got soaked! But it passed quickly.
Thanks for the memories. . .
And oh yes, I remember the rain shower that same day when we were on our day sail! We got soaked! But it passed quickly.
Thanks for the memories. . .
I've got 2 tickets to paradise~Pack your bags we'll leave tonight!
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
That was a great day! We went with Josh to the caves, indians, and loved it!! He was great and the snorkeling was awesome!
I tell ya we heard the fish munching. LOL Josh said it was something else and I don't care. That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Another fun report. I want to be with you all next time!
Gina
I tell ya we heard the fish munching. LOL Josh said it was something else and I don't care. That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Another fun report. I want to be with you all next time!
Gina
-
California Girl
-
piscesgirl0314
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 12:31 pm
- Location: Chesapeake, VA
-
Tracy in WI
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:39 am
- Location: Wisconsin
Great reports thus far - thanks so much for thaking the time to share your trip.
The pictures are fantastic and the blue water in the first one is incredible. It reminded me of the story of the silly tourist who wanted to take some caribbean blue water home with her in a glass jar to show her friends!
Tracy
The pictures are fantastic and the blue water in the first one is incredible. It reminded me of the story of the silly tourist who wanted to take some caribbean blue water home with her in a glass jar to show her friends!
Tracy