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Sun's Trip Report 2/20-3/1- Part 1- Warning: LONG
-
Sun4MySoul
- Posts: 524
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 1:37 pm
- Location: NC
Sun's Trip Report 2/20-3/1- Part 1- Warning: LONG
The Background
I have gathered so much invaluable information in my many months of lurking on this forum. I promised myself that I would "give back" after this trip. So here goes.....This was my third trip to STJ in 13 months. And before you start with your groans of jealousy- on all my previous trips I have stayed in a baresite at Cinnamon Bay campground...which is not a vacation for most of you. But I don't mind the hardships to spend a few weeks of the year in paradise. I probably would have returned to the campground again this trip, but I planned late and the baresites were already full. I looked at Cinnamon cottages, Maho Camps, Concordia and other 'affordable' housing, but settled on an apartment in Coral Bay called Coral Haven. I took a newbie with me this trip -SB- a long time friend of mine who really wanted to "see what all the fuss is about," since I-like most of you- am an Official STJ Addict and he has to hear about it all the time. Just prior to the trip, I purchased the Olympus 770. All the pictures and video in this report were taken with that camera and none of them have been edited at all. The camera probably has more bells and whistles than I need, but I was thrilled to be able to take the camera anywhere and not have to worry about waterproof housing, or dropping it, or whatever. It worked well for my needs.
The Basics
I always fly direct from CLT on USAir. I am a frequent flier with them and am usually lucky enough to use the miles to get me there. Our flight down there landed early and on the way back we were upgraded to First Class which saved us from waiting in the long line at check in at STT - YEAH! Because I wasn't camping, this was the first time that I've been able to pack Carry-On Only. Man, was that ever the BEST! I wish I could do it all the time! Why does anyone ever check luggage unless they have to carry a tent with them!
I always rent a car on STT and car barge over. I have previously used Budget at the airport, but used Dependable Car Rental this trip. I will be using them again. They were prompt to pick us up at the airport, the Jeep was in great condition, and they are cheaper than the on-airport rental places.
I usually provision on STT, but felt it was important to get to STJ before dark with a newbie along, so I went to Starfish for initial purchasing instead. For anyone wondering, this is, of course, more expensive. For everything that we needed on secondary shopping trips, we were perfectly satisfied with the selections at Lillys and Love City Markets on the Coral Bay side and I'm not sure that their stuff is any more expensive than at Starfish.
I always bring lots of frozen meats and some veggies and sandwich stuff from home on the trip. We eat most meals in and pack our own lunches to take to the beach. So if you are waiting for fabulous Food Porn in this trip report, don't hold your breath.
I found our rental apt - Coral Haven- on vrbo.com. It's a two story house and the owners live upstairs, so they are quick not to call it a villa. The owners were great - available if we needed anything and invisible if we didn't. Truly wonderful people that I would rent from again. The lower level of the house has a completely separate entrance from the owners and is basically a giant studio with full size bed, small living area, kitchen - all in one space and a separate bathroom and shower. There is a large deck with hammock and gas grill. It was perfect for everything we needed - as I am not a "villa gravity" person. I would definitely recommend this place for any singles looking for a safe, convenient and quiet location. Or a couple that doesn't need all the amenities of hot tub, pool, etc. The location was excellent for us (literally two switchbacks up from Skinnys), and the views were To Die For. We got to watch the sun (and the full moon) rise every day over East End and Hurricane Hole.
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08937.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08937.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Day One
After our uneventful travel and arrival day (for which I am most grateful), I'm happy to see the sunrise and am ready to hit the beach. I came down with a head cold a few days before our arrival, so this does not bode well for my usual morning activities of snorkeling/hiking, but I'm in paradise, so I won't complain. As SB hasn't seen the island yet and needs to get used to his snorkel equipment, we head off down the North Shore road to stop at the overlooks and settle on a quiet beach for the morning. We are up early enough that there is parking at Gibney so I decide to take advantage of this. I love how the lack of parking and lack of beach right at the bottom of the hill keeps most folks away. SB gets the hang of snorkeling and I float on my noodle. The water is chillier than I recall from last winter's trip and I guess I forgot to warn SB about it, so he's a bit shocked. But again - STJ feels like coming home to me, so I don't care what temperature the water is!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... ySwing.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... ySwing.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
After a while at Gibney, I am excited to get to my usual favorite beach - Maho. So off we go and HOLY COW! I have never seen so many people at this beach -and it wasn't even a weekend! Parking is impossible and screaming kids are everywhere. We probably should have just left, but am I determined to find my Zen floating on a noodle at Maho on Day One, so off we go. This was probably my worst mistake of the week, so I'm glad I got it over with on the first day! I am informed that its some type of school holiday and decide that we will not be back to the North Shore for a few days until the holiday week is over. Then its off to the Smoothie Truck (Mark no longer works there, does anyone know where he is working?), and out to start the mad shopping spree that SB needs to go on for family souvenirs (I'm so glad I don't have to do that anymore - my family no longer expect anything!). While out shopping, we hear that InnerVisions is playing at Sputniks. Since I'm never on the island when they are -this is not to be missed. We make dinner at the villa and head out to the concert. I'm too full of cold medicine to stay long, but it was nice to see the band that the forumites speak so highly of. They were having a cd release party the following week, so anyone that needs new music, should be able to order it by now.
Day Two
I'm feeling slightly better this morning - convinced that the Island Air will have me cured very soon- so we head off to Lameshur. We stop at the cobblestone beach and hike around to Donkey Bight for a snorkel to Beehive Cove. I like this snorkel, but saw an ENORMOUS shark here last year and am now very weary. Really, this thing was in the 12-15ft range and at the time I was snorkeling alone....I don't think I will be doing that one alone again. And yes, I know, sharks can be anywhere and it's irrational to think that he's still there waiting for me - but whatever - this is my story.
No shark sightings this time. Did see a school of 10 squid...probably the most I have ever seen at once. After lunch on the rocks, we headed over to check out the sandy side of the bay. The visibility there was the worst of the trip, so not any decent snorkeling, but I was happy to lounge around for a while.
On our return to Coral Bay, we attempted to find Kiddel Bay. This is my second unsuccessful attempt, and I'm sure the third time will be the charm. I must have it narrowed down, now that I've been on all the wrong roads! Really, I can see it, I know its there....I'll get to it next time. Stopped by to check out Concordia after that...they sure have an excellent view from that hillside. But even though it was officially "Happy Hour" they were not ready for us, so we were on our way.
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08167.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08167.jpg" border="0" alt="Concordia View"></a>
Driving through Coral Bay, we stopped to buy some fresh fish. This was quite the discovery as I know folks are always asking where to get the freshest fish...so here you go: If you are coming from Centerline Rd and heading out towards Coccoloba Plaza - right after you pass Island Blues on the left, there was a red truck and two guys have a 'cleaning station' right next to the water there. From what I gather they go fishing nearly every day and get hundreds of pounds of snapper and tuna, gut them and deliver them to local homes. They sold me a total of 4 fillets of red and yellow snapper - fully cleaned and de-headed upon request - for $15. Funny conversation while you wait, and native experience free of charge. Take your own Ziploc bag.
Day Three
Today we are scheduled on a day sail with Rick and Robin on Long Distance. This beautiful sailboat leaves from Coral Bay -perfect for us. We were hoping to go down early and see some of the runners come in from 8 Tuff Miles, but it was raining, so we waited it out at the apt. The rain stopped in time for our sail, so that's all we could ask for!
Rick and Robin (and their little dog) are great and I can't say enough good things about our day with them. They have lived on the island for many years and were happy to share their stories. We sailed over to Pelican Rock because rough seas prevented us from heading to their regular stop at Flannigan Island. The snorkeling was good here and then we were treated to sandwiches and beer on the boat. Finally...food porn - I know it doesn't look like much, but when you are on a sailboat in the Caribbean- its perfect!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08179.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08179.jpg" border="0" alt="Boat Lunch"></a>
Our second snorkel stop was in Otter Creek in Hurricane Hole. The water here was crystal clear and I always enjoy a snorkel near the mangroves. We even scored a small starfish sighting. Then it was rum punch and a sail home. Even though we didn't really go far, it was still a great day on the boat. Kiwi The Sailing Dog...
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08233.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08233.jpg" border="0" alt="Kiwi The Sailor Dog"></a>
We then topped off the day with two more of my favorite things: First a visit to the Smoothie Stand and then a trip to Shipwreck Landing. I love everything about Shipwreck: the food, the view, the drinks, the people. It's always a 'must do' more than once on my trips. I had the Conch Fritters with the amazing Valley Doll hot sauce that is made by a woman who works at Shipwreck. If you like hot stuff, try the Habenero flavor- I believe they call it 151. MMMmmmm Tasty! While I'm enjoying my food, drinks and merriment, I randomly discover that the woman I have been talking with at the bar is none other than Shipwreck Pat!! This is my first official meeting of another forum member, so I was psyched. What a great woman and it was definitely my pleasure to meet her!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08240.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08240.jpg" border="0" alt="Valley Doll Hot Sauce"></a>
Coming up....Rams Head, Beach Bar gathering, great snorkeling and more adventures....
I have gathered so much invaluable information in my many months of lurking on this forum. I promised myself that I would "give back" after this trip. So here goes.....This was my third trip to STJ in 13 months. And before you start with your groans of jealousy- on all my previous trips I have stayed in a baresite at Cinnamon Bay campground...which is not a vacation for most of you. But I don't mind the hardships to spend a few weeks of the year in paradise. I probably would have returned to the campground again this trip, but I planned late and the baresites were already full. I looked at Cinnamon cottages, Maho Camps, Concordia and other 'affordable' housing, but settled on an apartment in Coral Bay called Coral Haven. I took a newbie with me this trip -SB- a long time friend of mine who really wanted to "see what all the fuss is about," since I-like most of you- am an Official STJ Addict and he has to hear about it all the time. Just prior to the trip, I purchased the Olympus 770. All the pictures and video in this report were taken with that camera and none of them have been edited at all. The camera probably has more bells and whistles than I need, but I was thrilled to be able to take the camera anywhere and not have to worry about waterproof housing, or dropping it, or whatever. It worked well for my needs.
The Basics
I always fly direct from CLT on USAir. I am a frequent flier with them and am usually lucky enough to use the miles to get me there. Our flight down there landed early and on the way back we were upgraded to First Class which saved us from waiting in the long line at check in at STT - YEAH! Because I wasn't camping, this was the first time that I've been able to pack Carry-On Only. Man, was that ever the BEST! I wish I could do it all the time! Why does anyone ever check luggage unless they have to carry a tent with them!
I always rent a car on STT and car barge over. I have previously used Budget at the airport, but used Dependable Car Rental this trip. I will be using them again. They were prompt to pick us up at the airport, the Jeep was in great condition, and they are cheaper than the on-airport rental places.
I usually provision on STT, but felt it was important to get to STJ before dark with a newbie along, so I went to Starfish for initial purchasing instead. For anyone wondering, this is, of course, more expensive. For everything that we needed on secondary shopping trips, we were perfectly satisfied with the selections at Lillys and Love City Markets on the Coral Bay side and I'm not sure that their stuff is any more expensive than at Starfish.
I always bring lots of frozen meats and some veggies and sandwich stuff from home on the trip. We eat most meals in and pack our own lunches to take to the beach. So if you are waiting for fabulous Food Porn in this trip report, don't hold your breath.
I found our rental apt - Coral Haven- on vrbo.com. It's a two story house and the owners live upstairs, so they are quick not to call it a villa. The owners were great - available if we needed anything and invisible if we didn't. Truly wonderful people that I would rent from again. The lower level of the house has a completely separate entrance from the owners and is basically a giant studio with full size bed, small living area, kitchen - all in one space and a separate bathroom and shower. There is a large deck with hammock and gas grill. It was perfect for everything we needed - as I am not a "villa gravity" person. I would definitely recommend this place for any singles looking for a safe, convenient and quiet location. Or a couple that doesn't need all the amenities of hot tub, pool, etc. The location was excellent for us (literally two switchbacks up from Skinnys), and the views were To Die For. We got to watch the sun (and the full moon) rise every day over East End and Hurricane Hole.
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08937.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08937.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Day One
After our uneventful travel and arrival day (for which I am most grateful), I'm happy to see the sunrise and am ready to hit the beach. I came down with a head cold a few days before our arrival, so this does not bode well for my usual morning activities of snorkeling/hiking, but I'm in paradise, so I won't complain. As SB hasn't seen the island yet and needs to get used to his snorkel equipment, we head off down the North Shore road to stop at the overlooks and settle on a quiet beach for the morning. We are up early enough that there is parking at Gibney so I decide to take advantage of this. I love how the lack of parking and lack of beach right at the bottom of the hill keeps most folks away. SB gets the hang of snorkeling and I float on my noodle. The water is chillier than I recall from last winter's trip and I guess I forgot to warn SB about it, so he's a bit shocked. But again - STJ feels like coming home to me, so I don't care what temperature the water is!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... ySwing.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... ySwing.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
After a while at Gibney, I am excited to get to my usual favorite beach - Maho. So off we go and HOLY COW! I have never seen so many people at this beach -and it wasn't even a weekend! Parking is impossible and screaming kids are everywhere. We probably should have just left, but am I determined to find my Zen floating on a noodle at Maho on Day One, so off we go. This was probably my worst mistake of the week, so I'm glad I got it over with on the first day! I am informed that its some type of school holiday and decide that we will not be back to the North Shore for a few days until the holiday week is over. Then its off to the Smoothie Truck (Mark no longer works there, does anyone know where he is working?), and out to start the mad shopping spree that SB needs to go on for family souvenirs (I'm so glad I don't have to do that anymore - my family no longer expect anything!). While out shopping, we hear that InnerVisions is playing at Sputniks. Since I'm never on the island when they are -this is not to be missed. We make dinner at the villa and head out to the concert. I'm too full of cold medicine to stay long, but it was nice to see the band that the forumites speak so highly of. They were having a cd release party the following week, so anyone that needs new music, should be able to order it by now.
Day Two
I'm feeling slightly better this morning - convinced that the Island Air will have me cured very soon- so we head off to Lameshur. We stop at the cobblestone beach and hike around to Donkey Bight for a snorkel to Beehive Cove. I like this snorkel, but saw an ENORMOUS shark here last year and am now very weary. Really, this thing was in the 12-15ft range and at the time I was snorkeling alone....I don't think I will be doing that one alone again. And yes, I know, sharks can be anywhere and it's irrational to think that he's still there waiting for me - but whatever - this is my story.
No shark sightings this time. Did see a school of 10 squid...probably the most I have ever seen at once. After lunch on the rocks, we headed over to check out the sandy side of the bay. The visibility there was the worst of the trip, so not any decent snorkeling, but I was happy to lounge around for a while.On our return to Coral Bay, we attempted to find Kiddel Bay. This is my second unsuccessful attempt, and I'm sure the third time will be the charm. I must have it narrowed down, now that I've been on all the wrong roads! Really, I can see it, I know its there....I'll get to it next time. Stopped by to check out Concordia after that...they sure have an excellent view from that hillside. But even though it was officially "Happy Hour" they were not ready for us, so we were on our way.
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08167.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08167.jpg" border="0" alt="Concordia View"></a>
Driving through Coral Bay, we stopped to buy some fresh fish. This was quite the discovery as I know folks are always asking where to get the freshest fish...so here you go: If you are coming from Centerline Rd and heading out towards Coccoloba Plaza - right after you pass Island Blues on the left, there was a red truck and two guys have a 'cleaning station' right next to the water there. From what I gather they go fishing nearly every day and get hundreds of pounds of snapper and tuna, gut them and deliver them to local homes. They sold me a total of 4 fillets of red and yellow snapper - fully cleaned and de-headed upon request - for $15. Funny conversation while you wait, and native experience free of charge. Take your own Ziploc bag.
Day Three
Today we are scheduled on a day sail with Rick and Robin on Long Distance. This beautiful sailboat leaves from Coral Bay -perfect for us. We were hoping to go down early and see some of the runners come in from 8 Tuff Miles, but it was raining, so we waited it out at the apt. The rain stopped in time for our sail, so that's all we could ask for!
Rick and Robin (and their little dog) are great and I can't say enough good things about our day with them. They have lived on the island for many years and were happy to share their stories. We sailed over to Pelican Rock because rough seas prevented us from heading to their regular stop at Flannigan Island. The snorkeling was good here and then we were treated to sandwiches and beer on the boat. Finally...food porn - I know it doesn't look like much, but when you are on a sailboat in the Caribbean- its perfect!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08179.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08179.jpg" border="0" alt="Boat Lunch"></a>
Our second snorkel stop was in Otter Creek in Hurricane Hole. The water here was crystal clear and I always enjoy a snorkel near the mangroves. We even scored a small starfish sighting. Then it was rum punch and a sail home. Even though we didn't really go far, it was still a great day on the boat. Kiwi The Sailing Dog...
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08233.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08233.jpg" border="0" alt="Kiwi The Sailor Dog"></a>
We then topped off the day with two more of my favorite things: First a visit to the Smoothie Stand and then a trip to Shipwreck Landing. I love everything about Shipwreck: the food, the view, the drinks, the people. It's always a 'must do' more than once on my trips. I had the Conch Fritters with the amazing Valley Doll hot sauce that is made by a woman who works at Shipwreck. If you like hot stuff, try the Habenero flavor- I believe they call it 151. MMMmmmm Tasty! While I'm enjoying my food, drinks and merriment, I randomly discover that the woman I have been talking with at the bar is none other than Shipwreck Pat!! This is my first official meeting of another forum member, so I was psyched. What a great woman and it was definitely my pleasure to meet her!
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08240.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... b08240.jpg" border="0" alt="Valley Doll Hot Sauce"></a>
Coming up....Rams Head, Beach Bar gathering, great snorkeling and more adventures....
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Tracy in WI
- Posts: 1624
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:39 am
- Location: Wisconsin
