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11 more days in paradise, part one
11 more days in paradise, part one
Just a note that this is going to be a little different from my usual trip reports. Not nearly the usual level of activity—at the beginning of the trip, we were both recovering from a bout of food poisoning brought on from tainted fiddleheads, and at the end of the trip John hurt his ankle. We are coming back in July, and “we’ll do that in July instead” became a sort of mantra for us this time!
Day one
Travel day. Too much luggage as usual. I keep telling myself I am going to pack right one of these days. We ran into forumite Sue from MA at the airport--she and her husband were heading to Vigin Gorda to stay at Guavaberry. I made her promise to post photos on this forum. Hear that, Sue from MA? Photos please!!
Flight was fine, and we arrived in the St. Thomas terminal to find an all time shocking first: our checked bags were already on the luggage carousel by the time we got to baggage claim! I was actually looking forward to a red stripe at the airport--oh well! We got to the Red Hook terminal at 2:05 PM. Just enough time for a nice cold beer before the 3 PM ferry. We tried the new VI brewers beer--liquid sunshine, I think. Only OK--it tasted like a really thin lambic. I am a fan of their summer ale though.
Headed over to St. John to meet our rep from Destination St. John (we thankfully had a big car for all our stupid luggage!!) and picked up our car from St. John Car Rental. It was older and kind of beat up, but it ran so that was OK. We ran into forumite xislandgirl at St. John Car Rental--at this point John asked if all of VIOL was on island! Off on the bumpy road to La Jolla Caribe. The views from this house are stunning.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594265250/" title="ljc kiteboarder 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3372/459 ... 0741e2.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="ljc kiteboarder 2"></a>
For the first time I ordered villa provisioning (from katilady). They forgot to bring the beer I ordered but everything else was there. Overall, I was happy with this service. It was convenient to not to have to lug water up to the house, and having the food in meant we did not have to go back out for groceries. No food porn from this evening, we ran into cooking difficulties (could not get grill to light, and there were no matches in the house). Early bedtime.
Day two
Woke up in time to see the (hazy) sunrise. First beach of the day: Maho. It was a little crowded but we were only planning on snorkeling so that was OK. We tried the left side. Visibility was OK, not great, but we still had some interesting sightings including giant sea stars, a huge queen helmet:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594268504/" title="maho queen helmet underside by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/459 ... 41c2e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho queen helmet underside"></a>
crab:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267318/" title="maho crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1092/459 ... 541fab.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho crab"></a>
Flamingo tounges:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267608/" title="maho flamingo tounge by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1140/459 ... 19bdce.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho flamingo tounge"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267760/" title="maho flamingo tounges by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1103/459 ... 1c7372.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho flamingo tounges"></a>
Fish that I forget the name of (will edit in once I find my reef guide):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593652671/" title="maho snakefish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3410/459 ... 9de451.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho snakefish"></a>
Trunkfish being cleaned by baby porkfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593653413/" title="maho trunkfish with porkfish 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/459 ... 19675a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho trunkfish with porkfish 3"></a>
We also found a jackknife fish, barracuda, moray eel hiding in a rock, etc.
In what was the beginning of a theme for this trip, we were too tired to snorkel the right side, and instead headed back to the house to clean up and go get provisions. Of course, the minute we shut the door to the house we realized we had locked ourselves out! I remembered where Destination St. John was located so we headed over to beg an extra key.
It was pouring rain by this point. We saw three cars in a row try and fail to crest the hill at Jacob’s Ladder. Luckily our Wrangler made it OK, and DSJ graciously gave us an extra key. Coming back over the ladder, we encountered a Vitara that was completely stuck on the hill. It could not go up or down, its wheels just kept spinning in place amid the rushing water. A local was trying to assist them, but having no luck. I honestly do not know how you get out of a situation like that.
Dinner was out at La Tapa, and as always it was delicious. We had langoustines, house made mozzarella and beet salad, mahi mahi, and John had a ribeye. No pictures because it was too dark. Another early night.
Day three
Woke up to an overcast day, but decided to snorkel Haulover North anyway. The path to the beach is short and flat:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594244696/" title="haulover path by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3297/459 ... 67b673.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="haulover path"></a>
The beach:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593627641/" title="haulover north left side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/459 ... 976b31.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover north left side"></a>
This is always a great snorkel. The main attraction is the variety of corals. Purple fans:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594244936/" title="haulover purple fan coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/459 ... d7cce2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover purple fan coral"></a>
Elkhorn:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594243552/" title="haulover elkhorn coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1396/459 ... ac0ffa.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover elkhorn coral"></a>
Fire, fan, and finger corals:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594243782/" title="haulover fan and fire coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3382/459 ... 1b7317.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover fan and fire coral"></a>
We also found blue chromis, barracuda, lobster, trumpetfish, etc. I spent some time trying to find the octopus cave that netted me last year’s winning CT+L photo, but no luck. We were too tired to snorkel Haulover South so we headed to Shipwreck Landing for lunch of mahi sandwiches.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593654861/" title="shipwreck mahi sandwich by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1392/459 ... 5bf39b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="shipwreck mahi sandwich"></a>
John had a shipwreck shake:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593654945/" title="shipwreck shake by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1357/459 ... dfccf6.jpg" width="234" height="500" alt="shipwreck shake"></a>
We met more forumites here—Bill and Pam Ayer, which was nice because we were going out with them and Captain Brandi later in the week.
Back to the house for an afternoon of resting on the deck with books. I made us some pineapple-chili margaritas:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594265810/" title="ljc pineapple-chili margarita by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1322/459 ... 6775a6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="ljc pineapple-chili margarita"></a>
We were brilliant enough to stop at Lily’s for matches so I made dinner of grilled chicken sausage, chicken, onion and pepper kebabs that I served with a mango chutney, grilled naan, and a salad of Josephine’s greens with cashew crusted goat cheese.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593646663/" title="ljc chicken skewers by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1326/459 ... fb27fb.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="ljc chicken skewers"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594264436/" title="ljc goat cheese salad by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1035/459 ... 7def75.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="ljc goat cheese salad"></a>
Another early night.
Day one
Travel day. Too much luggage as usual. I keep telling myself I am going to pack right one of these days. We ran into forumite Sue from MA at the airport--she and her husband were heading to Vigin Gorda to stay at Guavaberry. I made her promise to post photos on this forum. Hear that, Sue from MA? Photos please!!
Flight was fine, and we arrived in the St. Thomas terminal to find an all time shocking first: our checked bags were already on the luggage carousel by the time we got to baggage claim! I was actually looking forward to a red stripe at the airport--oh well! We got to the Red Hook terminal at 2:05 PM. Just enough time for a nice cold beer before the 3 PM ferry. We tried the new VI brewers beer--liquid sunshine, I think. Only OK--it tasted like a really thin lambic. I am a fan of their summer ale though.
Headed over to St. John to meet our rep from Destination St. John (we thankfully had a big car for all our stupid luggage!!) and picked up our car from St. John Car Rental. It was older and kind of beat up, but it ran so that was OK. We ran into forumite xislandgirl at St. John Car Rental--at this point John asked if all of VIOL was on island! Off on the bumpy road to La Jolla Caribe. The views from this house are stunning.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594265250/" title="ljc kiteboarder 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3372/459 ... 0741e2.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="ljc kiteboarder 2"></a>
For the first time I ordered villa provisioning (from katilady). They forgot to bring the beer I ordered but everything else was there. Overall, I was happy with this service. It was convenient to not to have to lug water up to the house, and having the food in meant we did not have to go back out for groceries. No food porn from this evening, we ran into cooking difficulties (could not get grill to light, and there were no matches in the house). Early bedtime.
Day two
Woke up in time to see the (hazy) sunrise. First beach of the day: Maho. It was a little crowded but we were only planning on snorkeling so that was OK. We tried the left side. Visibility was OK, not great, but we still had some interesting sightings including giant sea stars, a huge queen helmet:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594268504/" title="maho queen helmet underside by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3285/459 ... 41c2e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho queen helmet underside"></a>
crab:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267318/" title="maho crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1092/459 ... 541fab.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho crab"></a>
Flamingo tounges:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267608/" title="maho flamingo tounge by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1140/459 ... 19bdce.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho flamingo tounge"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594267760/" title="maho flamingo tounges by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1103/459 ... 1c7372.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho flamingo tounges"></a>
Fish that I forget the name of (will edit in once I find my reef guide):
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593652671/" title="maho snakefish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3410/459 ... 9de451.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho snakefish"></a>
Trunkfish being cleaned by baby porkfish:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593653413/" title="maho trunkfish with porkfish 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/459 ... 19675a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="maho trunkfish with porkfish 3"></a>
We also found a jackknife fish, barracuda, moray eel hiding in a rock, etc.
In what was the beginning of a theme for this trip, we were too tired to snorkel the right side, and instead headed back to the house to clean up and go get provisions. Of course, the minute we shut the door to the house we realized we had locked ourselves out! I remembered where Destination St. John was located so we headed over to beg an extra key.
It was pouring rain by this point. We saw three cars in a row try and fail to crest the hill at Jacob’s Ladder. Luckily our Wrangler made it OK, and DSJ graciously gave us an extra key. Coming back over the ladder, we encountered a Vitara that was completely stuck on the hill. It could not go up or down, its wheels just kept spinning in place amid the rushing water. A local was trying to assist them, but having no luck. I honestly do not know how you get out of a situation like that.
Dinner was out at La Tapa, and as always it was delicious. We had langoustines, house made mozzarella and beet salad, mahi mahi, and John had a ribeye. No pictures because it was too dark. Another early night.
Day three
Woke up to an overcast day, but decided to snorkel Haulover North anyway. The path to the beach is short and flat:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594244696/" title="haulover path by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3297/459 ... 67b673.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="haulover path"></a>
The beach:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593627641/" title="haulover north left side by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/459 ... 976b31.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover north left side"></a>
This is always a great snorkel. The main attraction is the variety of corals. Purple fans:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594244936/" title="haulover purple fan coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/459 ... d7cce2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover purple fan coral"></a>
Elkhorn:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594243552/" title="haulover elkhorn coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1396/459 ... ac0ffa.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover elkhorn coral"></a>
Fire, fan, and finger corals:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594243782/" title="haulover fan and fire coral by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3382/459 ... 1b7317.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover fan and fire coral"></a>
We also found blue chromis, barracuda, lobster, trumpetfish, etc. I spent some time trying to find the octopus cave that netted me last year’s winning CT+L photo, but no luck. We were too tired to snorkel Haulover South so we headed to Shipwreck Landing for lunch of mahi sandwiches.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593654861/" title="shipwreck mahi sandwich by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1392/459 ... 5bf39b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="shipwreck mahi sandwich"></a>
John had a shipwreck shake:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593654945/" title="shipwreck shake by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1357/459 ... dfccf6.jpg" width="234" height="500" alt="shipwreck shake"></a>
We met more forumites here—Bill and Pam Ayer, which was nice because we were going out with them and Captain Brandi later in the week.
Back to the house for an afternoon of resting on the deck with books. I made us some pineapple-chili margaritas:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594265810/" title="ljc pineapple-chili margarita by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1322/459 ... 6775a6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="ljc pineapple-chili margarita"></a>
We were brilliant enough to stop at Lily’s for matches so I made dinner of grilled chicken sausage, chicken, onion and pepper kebabs that I served with a mango chutney, grilled naan, and a salad of Josephine’s greens with cashew crusted goat cheese.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4593646663/" title="ljc chicken skewers by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1326/459 ... fb27fb.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="ljc chicken skewers"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4594264436/" title="ljc goat cheese salad by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1035/459 ... 7def75.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="ljc goat cheese salad"></a>
Another early night.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
What a way for me to end my day, a trip report AND an idea for dinner!
We ran into trouble on Jacobs Ladder in 2007 during a downpour, vehicles slidding up and down, including a huge loaded dumptruck. It was scary. My husband knew to shift into low and we had enough traction to get up but lots of other vehicles didn't.
The shake shot is making me drool, I need to get out of the office.
When during July will you be on STJ? We arrive on June 29
We ran into trouble on Jacobs Ladder in 2007 during a downpour, vehicles slidding up and down, including a huge loaded dumptruck. It was scary. My husband knew to shift into low and we had enough traction to get up but lots of other vehicles didn't.
The shake shot is making me drool, I need to get out of the office.
When during July will you be on STJ? We arrive on June 29
Great start to the TR! I always get such great menu ideas from you 
Love the views from the Villas where you stayed-- but HATE John Head Road.
Jacobs Ladder can be a bitch. AC off, low gear and get a head start if it's wet... Good tires really help.
Keep em coming and so glad you recovered enough to go. Food poisoning is AWFUL (I picked something up on the way home from our sailing trip in December). Brutal.
Love the views from the Villas where you stayed-- but HATE John Head Road.
Jacobs Ladder can be a bitch. AC off, low gear and get a head start if it's wet... Good tires really help.
Keep em coming and so glad you recovered enough to go. Food poisoning is AWFUL (I picked something up on the way home from our sailing trip in December). Brutal.
*Another fine scatterbrained production
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Kentuckygirl
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msgcolleen
- Posts: 1497
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Lovely start to your highly anticipated trip report!
Sorry about the food poison. Fiddleheads? What's that? Did you get it before you left or in transit?
Lovin' your view, the snorkel & food/drink porn! Thanks for sharing your paradise with us!
BTW ~ How is the drive to the villa? Is John Head Road really that bad?
Sorry about the food poison. Fiddleheads? What's that? Did you get it before you left or in transit?
Lovin' your view, the snorkel & food/drink porn! Thanks for sharing your paradise with us!
BTW ~ How is the drive to the villa? Is John Head Road really that bad?
I've got 2 tickets to paradise~Pack your bags we'll leave tonight!
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
[url=http://www.TickerFactory.com/]
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Shellseeker
- Posts: 19
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Liamsaunt, please tell those of us that are new to this forum that you are a world class chef at a famous restaurant. Otherwise, I am amazed 
at the works-of-art that you prepare! Something tells me that every course you make is as delicious as it appears in your photos.
Hope STJ gave you both the R&R you sought after your illnesses!
at the works-of-art that you prepare! Something tells me that every course you make is as delicious as it appears in your photos.Hope STJ gave you both the R&R you sought after your illnesses!
OK, I am really 'island sick' to get back there. As you know I love La Jolla Caribe also. Did you get up and see the sunrise over the BVI (it might rise over Mary point this time of year... not sure) as well as the sunset over Peter Point??
Please: More view photos, food photos etc!!
Incredible dive photos as always.
Thanks
Please: More view photos, food photos etc!!
Incredible dive photos as always.
Thanks
Great first installment. I am curious about the villa. It appears from the pic with your drinks on the railing that the view is unobstructed. A few years ago I recall that the vegetation was so grown up that it impaired the view. No longer so? I do recall the road to the villa to be somewhat challenging but after recently staying at a villa in coral bay just pay the stables, I no longer classify very many drives as challenging. Looking forward to your next installment, more on the villa and more of your wonderful pics. Ali~
STJ - I "get it"
Great first installment. I am curious about the villa. It appears from the pic with your drinks on the railing that the view is unobstructed. A few years ago I recall that the vegetation was so grown up that it impaired the view. No longer so? I do recall the road to the villa to be somewhat challenging but after recently staying at a villa in coral bay just pay the stables, I no longer classify very many drives as challenging. Looking forward to your next installment, more on the villa and more of your wonderful pics. Ali~
STJ - I "get it"
Ali, the views from La Jolla Caribe are completely unobstructed. I believe the villa you are thinking of is Anole--same neighborhood.
Steve, the actual sun was not visible for sunrise or sunset from the house. At sunrise, you would just see the clouds turning pink. At sunset, you could 'almost' see the sun itself to the far left, but there was a privacy tree in the way.
I want to make clear that we did not get food poisoning from any establishment on St. John.
I did it to us! We had a huge plate of fiddleheads for dinner about a week before coming down. I thought I cleaned and prepared them correctly as usual, but apparently did not this time. Fiddleheads are wild fern fronds. They are delicious, but also incubators for not so lovely bacterial things. We were not actually sick on island--just getting our strength back after being utterly flattened by the earlier food poisoning.
Colleen, the John Head Road is challenging but not insurmountable. 4WD is needed.
Steve, the actual sun was not visible for sunrise or sunset from the house. At sunrise, you would just see the clouds turning pink. At sunset, you could 'almost' see the sun itself to the far left, but there was a privacy tree in the way.
I want to make clear that we did not get food poisoning from any establishment on St. John.
I did it to us! We had a huge plate of fiddleheads for dinner about a week before coming down. I thought I cleaned and prepared them correctly as usual, but apparently did not this time. Fiddleheads are wild fern fronds. They are delicious, but also incubators for not so lovely bacterial things. We were not actually sick on island--just getting our strength back after being utterly flattened by the earlier food poisoning. Colleen, the John Head Road is challenging but not insurmountable. 4WD is needed.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
You are correct about the views. I posted a couple of years ago with others about Anole, I stayed there in the mid90's, spectacular views. Subsequently they let the vegetation block the bulk of the coastline view below. I walked by it last summer, it is a little further down the road from La Jolla Caribe on the down hill side. It sits in a bit of a valley so the other Villas on the hill side of Wattapama have more expansive views.
Each Villa has great views in Catherinberg.
Each Villa has great views in Catherinberg.