Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Trip Report July 29 - August 6
July 29: My husband Jon, my 7 year old son Brenden and I had a relatively painless travel day - usually we drive to Atlanta and stay overnight at a hotel that allows parking for flights. This time we were flying out of Birmingham which is a much shorter drive for us. We were, however, up at 3 in the morning to catch a 6am American Airlines flight so it was a rough day anyway. We had a 20 minute delay in Miami but the pilot made up the time in flight to St. Thomas.
We usually rent a car on St. Thomas but this time we rented on St. John. I had forgotten how much fun the cab ride to Red Hook can be - you can always tell the Virgin Island n00bs in the cab because they freak and gasp at the twisty roads with the 30+ degree inclines.
We made the 2pm ferry and a nice fellow from Courtesy Car was waiting for us at the St. John ferry dock. We hit a small snag at the rental place - we discovered Jon's driver's license was about to expire therefore for the first time in 6 trips I had to drive. Piece of cake! I made the drive to Lavender Hill apartments without incident and only a slight increase in blood pressure.
On previous trips we have been (almost) strictly villa people - French Cap (2002), Moonsong (2003), Sea Cay (2010), and Leeward (2011). We rented an apartment at Serendip in 2007 because we were on a very tight budget that year.
This time out we had apartment 5W at Lavender Hill. I wanted to try staying close enough to Cruz Bay to walk into town. Our apartment was clean and well-maintained, and the walk into town was easy. We also loved the view - I spent a lot of downtime on the balcony watching the ferrys and charter boats coming and going. 4pm was always a traffic jam in / out of the harbor and my favorite time to sit, relax and sip a beer.
Anyway that first day I was feeling brave enough to make a Starfish grocery / beer run by myself. While I went shopping Jon took Brenden to the pool and heard a rumor of turtles in Maho Bay. We walked into town and ate at the Banana Deck. I love their food but the grammar nazi in me really cringes at all the extraeneous apostrophes in their menu. If I recall correctly I had the jerked seafood.
July 30: We arrived at Maho by 8am. I love going to the beach early because no one else seems to. We usually have the place to ourselves for an hour or so and we don't have to sweat a parking space. We took turns snorkeling and we found the turtles. And sting rays and the other usual suspects including parrot fish, squids, and blue tang. It rained during the afternoon but we walked into town and went shopping. I bought some things in St. John spice (Cruz Bay grill rub and Jon's favorite, Valley Doll 151 hot sauce). We ate in that night.
July 31: A tropical wave meant plenty of rain that morning. Jon was complaining about a painful big toe (which turned out to be gout) so he went the the Myra Keating clinic. He was happy with the service he received which amazed me. He has never complimented any healthcare service he has ever received any where.
Once he got back and the weather slacked we walked into town. We decided on the Beach Bar so our son could play in the surf and sand - he doesn't take too well to being cooped up on a rainy day. I'm sure I ate something - I do remember quite a few Island Hoppin Pale Ales. It may have been a burger or it may have been chicken wings (it's all tasty).
August 1: While Jon went scuba diving with Low Key Watersports I took Brenden to Cinnamon Bay, my favorite beach. There are some intimidating switchbacks between Trunk and Cinnamon and I'm proud to say I got up them without incident. We got there at 8 and left around 11:30. The place was deserted when we got there but very crowded by St. John standards when we left. I guess it's true; there is no such thing as low season any more.
August 2: We went back to Cinnamon Bay and Jon took Brenden kayaking. I'm totally blanking on the rest of the day. I'm sure food and beer were involved somehow. Also there was an earthquake one of these days. I was shopping in St. John kids and I recall thinking "man is that a truck or ferry? Either one it's awful close!"
August 3: Jon went scuba diving again so Brenden and I had a do-nothing day. We did swim in the pool and go walking around Cruz Bay some. St. John spice sells some sour watermelon candy that he fell in love with and it was his daily ritual to go buy some.

August 4: We went back to Cinnamon Bay and all 3 of us went kayaking. Ernesto had passed well to the south but we were worried about the swells. It looked kind or rough in Cruz Bay but the north shore beaches were fine. We would kayak to a beach, do some snorkeling, then paddle some more. Beyond the usual we saw a foot long barracuda. While we were watching it darted away and we saw it chase off some sort of shark, probably a reef shark. The shark was a good 3 feet long. That's my joke when people ask me if I worry about sharks when I snorkel - I always say no, because the barracuda run them off. I never thought I'd see it though. In all honesty I'm more worried about jelly fish, sea urchins and fire coral than sharks and barracuda. Most beasties in the sea seem to steer clear of the one-horned buttfishes they encounter.
August 5: Our last full day. Jon didn't want to do anything so I did something I've always wanted to do - I hiked the Lind Point trail. I took the low route to Salomon Beach then the high route back. I'm a not very active 48 year old and it was a easy peasy stroll and I'm sorry I didn't bring my swimwear because Salomon was pretty. I met many lizards and hermit crabs along the way, as well as a group from the Animal Care Center walking some friendly pooches. I want to do more hiking when we come back.
When I returned Jon suggested driving to Coral Bay to Skinny Legs. That worked for me. The burgers are good and the rum punches are deadly - Jon had a few and was too hammered to drive home (not that he was supposed to) so I drove back. I enjoy driving in St. John now - just keep left and don't let the inclines intimidate you. I only had to gesture at one fool who was driving on the right (sheesh! n00bs!). Anyway, back at Skinny Legs, Brenden saw one of the waitresses flinging an ice cube at a stray chicken - the waitress exlained the chickens liked pecking at feet so she was chasing them off. My son BEGGED to help her so she gave him a squirt gun and he fended off wild chickens at Skinny Legs for the afternoon. I'm sure if you asked him he would tell you that was his favorite part of the trip.
August 6: We went home. Bleh.
Overall Jon agreed with me - staying in Cruz Bay is a great idea. We loved walking into town and not having to worry about parking. Lavender Hill is a relatively inexpensive option and has everything we wanted in a place to stay. We probably won't be able to go back next year, but in 2014 I turn 50 and I want a full two weeks in St. John.
We usually rent a car on St. Thomas but this time we rented on St. John. I had forgotten how much fun the cab ride to Red Hook can be - you can always tell the Virgin Island n00bs in the cab because they freak and gasp at the twisty roads with the 30+ degree inclines.
We made the 2pm ferry and a nice fellow from Courtesy Car was waiting for us at the St. John ferry dock. We hit a small snag at the rental place - we discovered Jon's driver's license was about to expire therefore for the first time in 6 trips I had to drive. Piece of cake! I made the drive to Lavender Hill apartments without incident and only a slight increase in blood pressure.
On previous trips we have been (almost) strictly villa people - French Cap (2002), Moonsong (2003), Sea Cay (2010), and Leeward (2011). We rented an apartment at Serendip in 2007 because we were on a very tight budget that year.
This time out we had apartment 5W at Lavender Hill. I wanted to try staying close enough to Cruz Bay to walk into town. Our apartment was clean and well-maintained, and the walk into town was easy. We also loved the view - I spent a lot of downtime on the balcony watching the ferrys and charter boats coming and going. 4pm was always a traffic jam in / out of the harbor and my favorite time to sit, relax and sip a beer.
Anyway that first day I was feeling brave enough to make a Starfish grocery / beer run by myself. While I went shopping Jon took Brenden to the pool and heard a rumor of turtles in Maho Bay. We walked into town and ate at the Banana Deck. I love their food but the grammar nazi in me really cringes at all the extraeneous apostrophes in their menu. If I recall correctly I had the jerked seafood.
July 30: We arrived at Maho by 8am. I love going to the beach early because no one else seems to. We usually have the place to ourselves for an hour or so and we don't have to sweat a parking space. We took turns snorkeling and we found the turtles. And sting rays and the other usual suspects including parrot fish, squids, and blue tang. It rained during the afternoon but we walked into town and went shopping. I bought some things in St. John spice (Cruz Bay grill rub and Jon's favorite, Valley Doll 151 hot sauce). We ate in that night.
July 31: A tropical wave meant plenty of rain that morning. Jon was complaining about a painful big toe (which turned out to be gout) so he went the the Myra Keating clinic. He was happy with the service he received which amazed me. He has never complimented any healthcare service he has ever received any where.
Once he got back and the weather slacked we walked into town. We decided on the Beach Bar so our son could play in the surf and sand - he doesn't take too well to being cooped up on a rainy day. I'm sure I ate something - I do remember quite a few Island Hoppin Pale Ales. It may have been a burger or it may have been chicken wings (it's all tasty).
August 1: While Jon went scuba diving with Low Key Watersports I took Brenden to Cinnamon Bay, my favorite beach. There are some intimidating switchbacks between Trunk and Cinnamon and I'm proud to say I got up them without incident. We got there at 8 and left around 11:30. The place was deserted when we got there but very crowded by St. John standards when we left. I guess it's true; there is no such thing as low season any more.
August 2: We went back to Cinnamon Bay and Jon took Brenden kayaking. I'm totally blanking on the rest of the day. I'm sure food and beer were involved somehow. Also there was an earthquake one of these days. I was shopping in St. John kids and I recall thinking "man is that a truck or ferry? Either one it's awful close!"
August 3: Jon went scuba diving again so Brenden and I had a do-nothing day. We did swim in the pool and go walking around Cruz Bay some. St. John spice sells some sour watermelon candy that he fell in love with and it was his daily ritual to go buy some.

August 4: We went back to Cinnamon Bay and all 3 of us went kayaking. Ernesto had passed well to the south but we were worried about the swells. It looked kind or rough in Cruz Bay but the north shore beaches were fine. We would kayak to a beach, do some snorkeling, then paddle some more. Beyond the usual we saw a foot long barracuda. While we were watching it darted away and we saw it chase off some sort of shark, probably a reef shark. The shark was a good 3 feet long. That's my joke when people ask me if I worry about sharks when I snorkel - I always say no, because the barracuda run them off. I never thought I'd see it though. In all honesty I'm more worried about jelly fish, sea urchins and fire coral than sharks and barracuda. Most beasties in the sea seem to steer clear of the one-horned buttfishes they encounter.
August 5: Our last full day. Jon didn't want to do anything so I did something I've always wanted to do - I hiked the Lind Point trail. I took the low route to Salomon Beach then the high route back. I'm a not very active 48 year old and it was a easy peasy stroll and I'm sorry I didn't bring my swimwear because Salomon was pretty. I met many lizards and hermit crabs along the way, as well as a group from the Animal Care Center walking some friendly pooches. I want to do more hiking when we come back.
When I returned Jon suggested driving to Coral Bay to Skinny Legs. That worked for me. The burgers are good and the rum punches are deadly - Jon had a few and was too hammered to drive home (not that he was supposed to) so I drove back. I enjoy driving in St. John now - just keep left and don't let the inclines intimidate you. I only had to gesture at one fool who was driving on the right (sheesh! n00bs!). Anyway, back at Skinny Legs, Brenden saw one of the waitresses flinging an ice cube at a stray chicken - the waitress exlained the chickens liked pecking at feet so she was chasing them off. My son BEGGED to help her so she gave him a squirt gun and he fended off wild chickens at Skinny Legs for the afternoon. I'm sure if you asked him he would tell you that was his favorite part of the trip.
August 6: We went home. Bleh.
Overall Jon agreed with me - staying in Cruz Bay is a great idea. We loved walking into town and not having to worry about parking. Lavender Hill is a relatively inexpensive option and has everything we wanted in a place to stay. We probably won't be able to go back next year, but in 2014 I turn 50 and I want a full two weeks in St. John.

Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Great Trip report! Lavender Hills is our go to place when we are trying to save money! Glad you had a good trip!
Tim
Just Another Day in Paradise!!!
Just Another Day in Paradise!!!
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
We have been a little slow lately in the trip report department. Thanks for taking us along. It sounds like you had a nice relaxing trip.
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Sigh....nice report....need island time... 

~Pam~
"Barefoot in the snow white sand
A bag of sea shells in her hand
She finally found a paradise it seems..."
"Barefoot in the snow white sand
A bag of sea shells in her hand
She finally found a paradise it seems..."
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Thanks for report.
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Thanks, all. I lurk a lot on this forum but rarely post. I figured I'd post a trip report in payment for all the great trip reports I've read here over the years
-Sandy

-Sandy

Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
nice report, thanks, my trip can't come soon enough, or LAST long enough.

Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Thanks for sharing! Enjoyed your report! I still have yet to drive in St John.
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
thanks for posting! I almost spit my cereal on the screen with the grammar nazi comment as that is SO me!!!! I still have not driven on STJ yet, maybe it will be a first this year!! 

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- Posts: 3014
- Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:21 am
- Location: Western NY State
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Thanks for the trip report! We so appreciate it 
I am so impressed with anyone who drives on St. John. The idea scares the heck out of me. Good for you!!!

I am so impressed with anyone who drives on St. John. The idea scares the heck out of me. Good for you!!!
- PaminMaine
- Posts: 398
- Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:19 pm
- Location: Maine
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Nice report! I can visualize all the places that you write about so easily. I cant wait to get back on island..
I don't mind driving there at all! However, I do have a wee bit of a lead foot at home, and I might like things that give me a challenge!
Six more months......hope its a short winter!!
I don't mind driving there at all! However, I do have a wee bit of a lead foot at home, and I might like things that give me a challenge!

Six more months......hope its a short winter!!
Last edited by PaminMaine on Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Glad you had a great time!!
Now, if you're like me, you'll start planning your next trip tomorrow!
Thanks for the report!
Now, if you're like me, you'll start planning your next trip tomorrow!
Thanks for the report!
- Boston Mike
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:41 am
- Location: Boston, MA.
Re: Trip Report July 29 - August 6
Great report!
5W is our place to stay every year!
5W is our place to stay every year!
Life begins where the land ends!