USVI-On-Line

You decide. After six consecutive years of going to Mexico (Zihuatanejo - 3 times, Playa del Carmen - once, Akumal - once and Los Cabos - never again), our family of five visited STJ for the first time arriving June 1 and departing on June 9. Bottom line is that we will return but will take a decidedly different approach to our return trip.

Cruz Bay - Except for arriving and departing, I don't expect to ever see this place again. What an absolute mess. Now granted, if I were in my 20's my opinion would be different. Coral Bay is much more my style. Now I just need to locate a villa in that area. Cruz Bay is to Coral Bay as Playa del Carmen is to Akumal. To each his own, I guess.

The Inn at Tamarind Court is where we spent our first night hoping to maximize our villa time. I didn't expect much and they delivered. We paid $190 for a two room hovel and were glad to leave. The management there brings indifferent service to a whole new level. The bartender was friendly, though, and breakfast looked tasty the next morning.

However, we were off to Caribbean Villa early Saturday to see if we could get our vehicle for some shopping and sightseeing. A very likeable young man took us to pick up our Suzuki Grand Vitara. This vehicle was beat to hell but had only 8,800 miles on the odometer. It worked but we were very envious of the four door Jeeps we saw all week.

Le Lapin was our villa for the week. It was very spacious and nicer than the pictures at their website. As others have noted, it works very well for families. Practically everything worked and worked well. The pool was very nice and the water was borderline cold. Perfect after a day at the beach. The grill was in good working order and the villa was spotless upon our arrival at 3:00. The road to this place was something else! A rutted, relatively steep and winding one lane. Only twice during the week did we meet another vehicle and both times they backed up to let us by. Although we were very pleased with the villa, we'll look in the Coral Bay area next time.

Beaches - spent days at Hawksnest, Francis, Maho, Hansen and Trunk. Absolutely loved Maho. We were the only people at Hansen one afternoon. Would not go back to Trunk. Just too busy and too many other options. Took an early morning snorkel to Waterlemon. We were the only people there early Thursday morning. It started raining and then a beautiful rainbow appeared. Snorkeled over the starfish bed and saw a ton of fish and coral. Really the highlight of our trip.

Our trip w/Capt. Phil - didn't get off to a good start as he chewed out another guest who didn't put her foot in the right place when boarding his boat. Hey, I get the fact that he has lived on that boat for 25+ years but I was afraid to use the bathroom for fear I wouldn't do it right. However, things really smoothed out and, after the obligatory AA sermon, we got some great snorkeling in. He is really good with kids and made my boys (14 & 17) very comfortable. Don't know if I would do it again but it was worthwhile even after the closing hard sell for clothing and related items.

Beach Bar - good blackened fish sandwich, but highly indifferent service. In fact, no service to speak of.

Chilly Billy - ate 2 breakfast meals here. The food and service was very good. Even the bisquits and gravy were awesome.

Grotto Deli - in a word, rocks! We ordered carryout subs for the beach at least 4 times. The Italian sub is to die for. Very friendly service and just a great place.

China Grill and Ronnie's Pizza - had delivery on 2 nights we didn't want to drive after dark. China Grill was average, at best. I thought Ronnie's was pretty darn good and what was left was devoured at breakfast the next morning.

Shipwreck Landing - had 2 late lunches here. Both were very good; I could get real used to this place.

Skinny Legs - again, my kind of place. Had the blue cheese burger and cold beer. Does it get any better than this?

Uncle Joe's - we found the ribs to be very average but enjoyed the chicken.

In summary, we will return someday. But we'll spend as little time as possible in Cruz Bay. Someone needs to open another Grotto Deli in Coral Bay in the meantime. Everyonce in awhile, I find myself tuning into the Mongoose 104.9 station on the web. Our villa had a good stereo and we enjoyed this station immensely.

The ferry ride back was a joke. Getting the bags afterward was a farce. The airport infrastructure is a joke. You really have to want to go to STJ. Despite it all, we will go back.

jp

Hmmm.. I guess I am perplexed. Sounds like you had an ok time? We first saw St John when we came over for the day from St Thomas. We met some people from Philly and took them over again before we left STT. We just love it. I am not old but not really young anymore either. I found Cruz Bay to be my style for the most part. I like the live and let live attitude of the place. I like the shake the hubcaps off the Jeep roads. To us it is charming and freeing and relaxing. I don't want someone in my face waiting on me at all times. That is for others but to me it feels uncomfortable at times. St John is not for everyone. I just posted about my brother who would rather go to a "nice" resort and be waited on etc. That's his perrogative. I think he is missing out.
I also find getting there exciting. I am filled with anticipation on the taxi and ferry. I have found most people to be extremely friendly and helpful.

I have heard nothing but good about Captain Phil. Does he give an AA lecture and talk about the "program"? That I can do without hearing.

We've never stayed in the Coral Bay area, but I know there are many great villas there. We prefer the Cruz Bay area. You better get back before the new dock gets built in Coral Bay. I have a feeling it will soon become another Cruz Bay, which I happen to adore.

Does Capt. Phil really give an AA lecture? I guess no pain killers on his boat. I went out with him about 15 years ago and I don't remember that, but he did sell us a T-shirt that my husband stills wears. I guess it's good quality.

mrsb wrote:I have heard nothing but good about Captain Phil. Does he give an AA lecture and talk about the "program"? That I can do without hearing.

Not when we sailed with him. He did mention that he was active in AA, but that's all. I did not have a problem with that. There is beer on the boat if you want it. We had a great day with him.

jp, I am glad that you saw the starfish at Waterlemon. They are really neat to to observe.

The only thing I will say to you regarding staying in Coral Bay is that you will have to be careful about the road to your villa. If you were uncomfortable driving the road to Le Lapin, think about three times as steep and rough and that is the way up to many (not all of course!) of the Coral Bay houses. You need to have 4WD to get to some. Of course, the views and tranquility are the payoff!

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

DELETED

I was blown away by the elevated location of the villas up on the mountain side. I see Caribbean Villas only has a few properties in this area. Can anyone recommend a management company who has more Coral Bay listings?

I don't want to sound overly negative on Cruz Bay. Maybe I was expecting something different. Parking was near impossible and this was in early June. What is it like in high season?

If it were just me and the wife and if we were staying within walking distance of CB, then I could probably dig it.

jp

Thank you for your report. sorry it wasn't everything you exspected it to be.
When i first started planing my trip last week i was looking into the Coral Bay area, where Obsessmuch stayed in fact. after having issues renting a jeep i decided somewhere in walking distance to Cruz Bay would be better for me. it's where i plan on being anyway when not on a beach. i want the nightlife that CB has. I lived on STT in my twenty's and at that time i found CB to be too sedate for me.
the ferry ride was part of the fun of going to STJ for day trip. and as to the airport, well in 85-87 it reminded me of the old WWII hangers i played in on Airforce bases as a little kid . I loved it. at least they removed the big hill at the end of the runway.

JP

I guess you do "get St. John" or you wouldn't be already thinking of going back. Although I love Cruz
Bay for its restaurants, funky night life and the whole adorable "look" and vibe of it, I know a lot of people prefer Coral Bay and that's just fine, too. It's all good!

I always stay on the South Shore, but there are lots of villas on the Coral Bay side. Windspree.com has all Coral Bay side villas.

The different points of view and preferences we've seen expressed above are the reason they still sell chocolate and vanilla ice cream. There are large groups who want one over the other.

I noticed that things where you had positive comments really struck a chord with you. Those that were negative had one common factor IMHO. you seemed to have trouble getting "on island time." You are probably not too far from us in NW AR. I know how that can be a problem. I've learned that the long flight's primary function is to allow that decompression and mindset shift.

I hope you enjoy the next trip more than this one.

I have to agree w/ California Girl in that you "sorta" get STJ. Before I got that far in reading your original post I had to think to myself that perhaps you "don't really get STJ" , but "sorta" is actually more accurate.

I have sailed w/ Capt. Phil and got no sermon, and drank his beer freely. He did mention that he was a recovering alcoholic but no sermon and no guilt on my part for partaking. I figured if he had a problem being around alcohol he wouldn't provide it. We had a great sail w/ him and wouldn't hesitate to be repeat customers.

All I can say for our first time to STJ, was "WOW, I can't wait to get back to this place, warts and all!" It is only part of what gives STJ its special charm.

Thanks for your report and thoughts. Clearly, first- timers can get STJ or there wouldn't be second-timers. I don't understand your feelings about Cruz Bay. It's a little haywire and a little tacky, but I think it's a lot of fun. It's certainly no metropolis. I have to agree with you about the transportation and the airport, but that's the time to start breathing in the warm air and letting out the US expectations...

Robin

I thought this was just a question, which, of course, my answer was going to be "ummm, yes!"

I see some of your points- not every area can be for every one.

I liked the kitchy (isn't that the word?) feeling in Cruz Bay. The locals yelling to me "take my picture!" and the traffic was refreshing to me in that it was such a stark contrast to my hometown. Anyway, I think you got it, if in your own way. That part of it isn't really unique to any of us, is it?

Like at least one other person has said, Windspree has all Coral Bay rentals and they were very helpful in my pre-trip questions.

I'm glad you're planning trip #2.

You are going back, so I'd say you get it I've evolved into a more Coral vs. Cruz bay kind of girl...though I like Cruz bay too. Just wouldn't mind staying on the east end some day.

I have to agree with your assessment of two things 100% - 1. Capt Phil (I did not find our daytrip with him relaxing or fun. Informative yes, but he's a bit uptight for me. I treated his boat like I'd treat my own, but if you are that concerned about a grain of sand perhaps chartering daysails isn't your line of work. I felt he was definitely more concerned about his boat than the enjoyment of his guests). 2. Deli Grotto definitely rocks!