USVI-On-Line

Just returned from our 7th trip to the "Rock" (June 23 - July 1). My wife and I have been fortunate to have visited every June for the past six years. Doesn't exactly make us Mr. and Mrs. St. John, but with that kind of regularity, you start to notice things and I've jotted them down below for the forum to react to and possibly for the edification of anyone heading to STJ in the next few months.

As for whether I'm over or under-reacting, I'll leave it to the forum to decide.

WHAT GIBS? - Before this last trip, I was sure of three things: Death, Taxes and Arriving at the Oppenheimer Gate prior to 8:30am ensured you a parking space and prime spot on Gibney beach. No mas. In fact I don't even feel mentally safe having this conversation with you right now Went to Gibney 2x on this last trip and even when we got there at the butt crack of dawn, there were already peeps there. Seriously, what Gibs? Hey, I'm the one that coined the phrase "the early bananaquit gets the worm," but this is ridiculous. Anyway, fair warning to all Gibney lovers, get there EARLY.

L'EXCELLENT TRAIL - L'Esperance Trail is no secret thanks to the Trail Bandit and the group of students that cleared it a few years back, but you rarely see it mentioned on the forum when talking the best hikes relative to Reef Bay, Ram Head or even Lind Point and Caneel Hill mentions. But I want to give my full 54b l'endorsement for L'Esperance. The trailhead is pretty easy to find right there on Centerline, not too far from the turn off for John Head Road. It's not as well traveled as Reef Bay, but you never feel like you're lost, even when it's dark in the early hours. It's about 2.6 miles to the bay, but the middle of it is relative flat and very enjoyable and the ascent back up is not nearly as difficult as Reef. Long story short, I wouldn't go so far as to recommend L'Esperance over Reef Bay trail, but I would recommend hiking down Reef and back up L'Esperance (vs. Reef Bay only) if you can park a car at or hitchhike between both trailheads.

THE HONEYMOON IS OVER - Speaking of breaches in beaches of etiquette, when did Honeymoon Beach become Daytona on Spring Break? We've always been fans of Salomon/Honeymoon as they are beautiful and since they are not easily accessed by car, they've always been relatively quiet and limited traffic wise. But I was amazed at the population explosion when walking past Honeymoon a few days ago. Paul Revere would have had to light a 3rd lamp because I'm pretty sure they were coming by both land and sea and maybe air too. I guess with the new facilities Honeymoon has become sort of Cinnamon Bay-Lite and the catamaran group tours seem to have identified Honeymoon as a good snorkel stop. Fair warning to all "Honeymooners," expect company. If you're looking to keep the crowds down, Salomon is still pretty quiet.

GOOD VYBZBRATIONS - Natural Vybz Rootz Cafe is a relatively new take-out restaurant over near Pine Peace and the basketball court on South Shore Road (just before Jacob's Ladder). It's a little off the beaten path, but if you're a veggie or just want to go meatless for a meal or two, it's a great option. Really big portions - one order ($18) big enough for two people.

Also, hat tip to Caribbean Oasis in Coral Bay. It's also great for take-out. It's very much what people have described on the forum in so much as being home cooking, big portions and priced the budget conscious. You just go to their facebook page to see their menu, changes daily and there's almost always a beef, chicken, pork, fish and veggie option - https://www.facebook.com/coralbayoasis - our villa (Bay Rum Breeze on Mamey Peak) had a view that rivaled any restaurant on STJ, so getting takeout and eating on the deck made a lot of since to us.

WATERLEMON CRAY - You see posts on Waterlemon Cay all the time - snorkeling tips, the wonderful underwater sites and the dangers of the unpredictable currents - all extremely helpful and valid. But what I've yet to read about and what I found most surprising/unsettling on our last visit to Leinster was the amount of trash near the area where most people enter the water to snorkel the cay. Made me really sad and mad. And it's not the flotsam that just washes up on shore like at Haulover North or Drunk Bay, it was definitely the kind that people who hiked in would leave (snacks, drinks, broken snorkel gear, etc.) Our group started picking up some of the trash, but it's overwhelming. Hopefully word gets out and people will take an extra plastic bag with them to start removing the trash. It sucks, but the area is so remote, I think those of us who love it are going to have to take care of this one. Can't see the NPS doing it.

MAKE A BEE LINE FOR B-LINE - Not on STJ, but little Jost Van Dyke. For those that charter private BVI excursions and want that beach dive bar experience without the crowds, this should fit the bill (well until it gets more popular). The bar is fully stocked, the bartender is sleepy friendly and it's just real laid back. They have a couple of Cornhole set ups if you're into the game. Also rec the Passion Confusion. Eat the pineapple chunks first. Not sure what they've been soaking in, but they're enough to send you to the spirit world by themselves.

Another hat tip to Captain John of Palmtree Charters. He never fails to deliver or impress when it comes to a great day roaming the BVIs.

I MISS THE RAINS DOWN IN AFRICA - Has the Sahara Dust always been this dense in June? I used to laugh at forum visitors who stressed over the weather forecast regarding the rain. And now I've become a Sahara Dust worry wart. I tracked it the week leading up and all throughout the week I was there on this site : http://forecast.uoa.gr/dustindx.php We even planned around it trying to go to our favorite beaches on the days when the skies would be least effected by the dust. Anyway, I know it keeps temps down and may even help stave up hurricanes by keeping the water temps low, but when it's dusty, it can really be a bit of a downer. I used to think June was the perfect month to go to STJ, but may be rethinking that if the dust continues to be this dense. NOTE: We did have a few blue sky days, so I don't want to give the impression that we had a total brown out.

Just some observations from my favorite place on Earth. Hopefully get to check up on all the above and more next year.

54b

Absolutely priceless post.

Try late October, roll the hurricane dice and enjoy an empty island.

Really like this TR. Thank you, 54B.

You guys are way too kind, but flattery will get you everywhere.

I hope to have a more detailed TR soon, but I always like to get the Tips or Big Aha Moments in a separate post. Kind of a pay it back or forward deal as I've learned just about everything about STJ (or at least the really good stuff) from this forum.

Thanks for another SUPER TR and loved the chuckles you provided with such wonderful insights!!! We were there the 2nd week in June and had a few early days with a bit of Sahara dust but lucky for us it cleared out and we ended up with more "blue sky days" than not

yes and please help pick up the trash left by those assholes. thanx.....

Thanks for the overview TR! We were there the last week of May and first week of June. The skies were beautiful a few days and we had some glorious sunsets from Gifft Hill, but the rest of the time we had gray skies. We wondered if we should be concerned breathing that stuff.

I'm glad you mentioned L'Esperance Trail. I don't recall seeing it mentioned in previous TRs over the years. One afternoon we decided to do a little hiking and took this trail down to the ruins. The ruins are not in good shape, but they are extensive and still interesting to poke around in them. There were several graves - one was marked with a date in the 1700s. I would like to hike more of this trail as the forest was beautiful there.

For the 2 weeks we were there, we never saw an open parking space at Gibney. I will admit we were never going by there before 8:30am since we are slow in the morning. Maybe some day we will be able to actually go to that beach.

VERY sorry to hear about the trash at Waterlemon. That is sad and maddening and its hard to understand why anyone would leave their trash on the beach. We didn't make it there this trip due to foot injuries. Will definitely bring a trash bag next time we go. Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks ... I always look forward to your trip reports...

Great report- I'll be watching for the detailed version!
Dreamin' about that pineapple.....

i always love reading your reports, they make me smile.

Sorry to hear that the trash at Waterlemon is an ongoing problem. I was completely disgusted with the mess out there when we visited in April.

Is Natural Vybz a replacement for Forward to Your Roots? It sounds like it might be, or they are in the same area. I want to try it next trip (in three weeks, yay!).

Liamsaunt, hopefully someone in the know will chime in regarding the history of Vybz. Some additional info...I'd categorize it as a STJ restaurant that caters more to locals than tourists and it's apparently very big with the Rastafarian crowd as we were told they practice some type of vegetarianism (I think). Regardless, the staff was extremely friendly and my wife and her friend went there twice and were encouraged to call ahead the 2nd time to place their order because Vybz cooks a certain amount each day and when it's gone, it's gone.

Here's the number:

340.774.6712

Thanks for taking the time for a mini TR!! I always love reading your thoughts. Great info and always fun/funny!

We've been twice in June, and looking back at those pictures vs our trip this year in May you can certainly tell a difference, it was much more clear in May.....but then its "rainy" season and that's a worry. So I guess you do you want to be a little wet with clear skys or dryer with dust......Wait...this is STJ, I'll take either!!

In May we got to Gibney at about 8.15 and were able to snag a spot!! SCORE.

As always I loved reading your post! You have such a great writing style that keeps ya wanting more. BTW... we want more, look forward to the "official" TR Thanks so much!

Thanks again to all for the nice comments and an aside about Gibney...people are quick to point out that its rise in popularity is likely due to the increase in awareness driven by forums like this one. Valid. But honestly, I think Gibney's increase in traffic is also driven heavily by Hawksnest and the fact that you can see how the "other half" are living so easily from either beach.

While we were on Gibney a little over a week ago, my wife commented, "wow, look at all those people on Hawksnest, it's packed." Well if we could see them, they could certainly see us and it doesn't take an M.I.T. Grad to figure out that the per capita on Hawksnest is like 20x or 30x that of Gibney at the busiest times of the day (easily at least 20 people on Hawksnest for every one on Gibney and maybe more).

And sure enough, about 2pm, we noticed one enterprising family of five wading over from Hawksnest past those rocks that separate the two beaches. I guess it was time to test their theory that the sand was softer on the other side of the fence. And I kid you not, the Dad in the family made 3 trips over and back before he finally got their haul (big cooler, chairs, beach items, etc.) moved over.

We just smiled and said, "welcome to Gibney." But I couldn't help but think that guy was going to have to turn back around and make 3 trips back to get his stuff back over to Hawksnest. So six total trips for maybe two or 2.5 hours on Gibney?

No doubt he will soon be one of the many converts striving for one of the few prized spots next to the gate early in the morning.