Back to the Islands: Virgin Gorda and St. John - Part 1
Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:52 pm
Disclaimer: WAY TOO MUCH backstory included here in Part 1 for some God forsaken reason, but I promise subsequent parts won’t be so verbose and more photos than text, as the trip itself was pretty uneventful…plus I will likely get tired of typing so much…
May 28 – June 7
For the record, this is the 6th trip to the VIs for our family of three. We got the DIF (Dreaded Island Fever) after the first trip in April 2005 to Secret Harbour on STT and Estate Lindholm on STJ (btw that is when I first discovered, joined, and came to rely on the earlier iteration of this very forum), and then there was that adventurous trip to Anegada and Virgin Gorda in June 2008…
But yes, it has been 4 long years since we’ve been to the VIs. June 2009 over Fathers Day was the last trip to STJ when we were able to score that short lived deal that Caneel ran after the economy went off the cliff for $325 a night (!), ocean view, INCLUDING that big breakfast buffet and a $200 resort credit (!)
That was when a bunch of us old time forumites (liamsaunt, Bob & Anita, Gromit, Flip, etc.) met up at Honeymoon – remember that? It seems like a long time ago, especially since (at the risk of TMI) I was going thru some initial diagnostics at the time that I didn’t want to think about, and had successful surgery later that summer for prostate cancer. The good news is that I had very minimal side effects and my PSA remains “clinically undetectable” almost 4 years later. And I expect it to stay that way.
When we returned to STJ on this trip and I reflected upon that journey when were out by Caneel, it snuck up on me and got a bit verklempt. I suppose that’s because I depended on mental images of St. John when I closed my eyes to calm myself and relax before tests and procedures. Like Jimmy says, it’s a magic kind of medicine that no doctor can prescribe…
Anyways, its not like we stopped traveling or anything, and because you can't put off what you love to do, and maybe you appreciate more then ever that “someday” may never come.
So it was off to Europe twice (London/Paris and then Italy where I got a chance to meet up with the one and only Anthony), and then we went to Kauai last May (first time to HI) – all wonderful trips.
BUT - the Caribbean beckoned us back. One thing that paying for trips to the VIs did was prove to us that if your travel budget can handle STJ, it can handle going a lot of other places too, especially if you are a good planner.
I was pushing for a return to Virgin Gorda (this would be our 3rd time) and we were both hoping for a chance to return to Caneel too. So I started looking at airfares 6+ months out and soon after a deal popped up out of JFK that I couldn’t believe, so I grabbed it and worked out the logistics to fly into San Juan, take a puddle jumper to Virgin Gorda, take the direct Sunday ferry to STJ, then nonstop back to JFK from STT.
FYI that JFK-SJU/STT-JFK round trip was only $272 each (...I’ll wait while some of you facing ridiculous airfares pick yourselves up off the floor...) Believe me, I NEVER thought I would see a sub-$300 to the VIs again.
I was also excited that Seaborne was initiating service from SJU to VG for $145 as they fly bigger and better equipment, so I booked them. But then I got an email from them about a month later that they eliminated our late afternoon flight and already cut back the number of flights to VG to one a day that leaves at 1:10pm. That makes NO sense at all for folks making connections from the mainland. Cancelled that reservation and made one with Air Sunshine for $138 one way. Our flight from JFK was scheduled to get in around 1 pm so I had to book their 5 pm flight, but they said they would put us on an earlier flight if they could.
After booking flights, I booked a return stay at Guavaberry on VG. Their off season rates are pretty reasonable and their beach is one of my favorite places on earth.
As for STJ, that 2009 Caneel deal seems mighty lucky and a bit crazy now because we were really hoping that a decent deal would pop up, but that wasn’t happening – perhaps confirmation that the economy is doing just fine for those who don’t blink at those Caneel prices.
But the numbers were just too high for us when paying for a third person in the room, plus the breakfast buffet, plus another 20% (for tax and resort fee) – would you believe over $700 per night?
We briefly considered the villa option, but that wasn’t working too well for 5 nights for our small crew of 3, plus we would likely opt to eat out most if not all nights, because who wants to spend the time shopping, prepping, cooking, and cleaning up meals after doing that for the other 50 weeks of the year?
Not that there is anything wrong with that, and, God bless those of you who willingly tackle that. Makes more sense (even to us) if you are in one spot for a week or more, AND especially if you have others to share/split the KP duties and costs with.
Kitchen Patrol for us consisted of simple breakfasts, maybe reheat some leftovers, and the daily prep of the beach drinks – nalgene bottles of the Rum Punch of the Day, Gatorade, and ice tea or Crystal Light Pink Lemonade from concentrate powders we tote down (useful TIP), and refilling the ice cube trays.
After further consideration, we decided that for STJ it would be best to stay in or as close to town as possible as we would enjoy that after the remoteness of Virgin Gorda. So we were able to book Gallows after I contacted them directly and was offered a stay for 5 pay for 4 nights deal. We asked for and got an updated ocean upper.
I should mention that this trip almost didn’t happen – a return to Europe was seriously considered because my daughter did a study abroad in Germany for 2 ½ weeks, leaving the day after finals and returning May 24. We considered meeting up with her in Munich and then continuing on thru the Austrian Alps to Salzburg and Vienna, and then to Prague – all places in central Europe I would like to see.
Thinking that could be too much time away for her, that she didn’t have ANY time to de-compress after finals, plus the siren call of “its been too long since I’ve seen that Caribbean water” made us pull the trigger on this trip.
But wouldn’t you know that just days after I booked the flights, Springsteen announced the dates for that leg of the European tour, and that he would be playing Munich on May 26th (!) How cool would’ve that been to see him over there? (we are huge fans) And, I wonder how much sway that could’ve had on the decision making process…
More 20/20 hindsight: the UEFA (European soccer club) final was May 25th and it featured two German teams, with the team from Munich winning a thrilling game.
How much fun would’ve it been to do a pub crawl in Munich during that game? My daughter and I enjoyed a pub crawl while in London during the semifinals of the 2010 World Cup, and went to watch the final on the big screen at the base of the Eiffel Tower in Paris = pretty cool experiences. This UEFA final was played at Wembley in London, and my daughter saw a huge charter group of Bayern Munich fans at the airport the day of her departure from Germany.
Even more 20/20 hindsight, but this is the opposite so-glad-we-didn’t-do-Europe kind: my daughter had unseasonably cold and rainy weather most of the time over there, then, in the past few weeks there have been torrential rains causing major flooding throughout central Europe. Now THAT would’ve sucked. Spring here in NJ in April/May wasn’t too good either, so we were ALL hurting for some sun and warmth, and were quite pumped to GET BACK TO D-iLONS.
Our day of departure for the VIs is the day after Memorial Day. That travel day went about as well as can be expected. The drive out to JFK from central NJ is only about 50 miles but can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hrs depending on the huge wildcards of traffic thru Staten Island and Brooklyn, not to mention the awful drivers on the Belt Parkway. No offense, but I think there are a lot of New Yorkers who are rather challenged when it comes to driving at highway speed, but, I digress…
After checking multiple traffic reports, we left the house before 6, flight left on time, arrived SJU early. As many would concur, SJU is the pits, but I did notice there is a new, rather large Margaritaville there right in the airport. Go figure. Previously, decent amenities did not really exist there. We packed sandwiches and Cliff Bars for the plane ride anyway.
The girls were able to fetch their checked bags rather quickly, and we headed back up and over the Air Sunshine desk, where they ask you how much YOU weigh and also weigh all your luggage and carry ons so they can properly balance the plane.
I did carry-on this trip and it worked out well. Used a new Travelpro Maxlite2 that is pretty sweet and I can highly recommend. If I use it one more time it will pay for itself. It is super light weight, well designed, and appears to be plenty sturdy enough for occasional leisure and business travel. Nice blue color too.
Air Sunshine tells us we can get on the next flight leaving, but we would have to hustle down to get it, so she has us escorted to the employee line that cuts into the front of the LONG security line. We try to avoid the dirty looks from those on the regular line LOL.
We hustle downstairs and proceed to wait with no additional information, but it is not too long before we are loaded up into the 10 seat Cessna for the quick flight over to VG.
There is a woman on the plane sitting next to my wife and right in front of me that looks pretty freaked out and continually makes the sign of the cross as we taxi and take off. Then she grips the seat in front of her in which her husband is sitting and keeps her head down for most of the ride.
And – get this – her husband never once even glances back to see how she is doing. After we land, she says “I’m not a good flyer”. Surely HE knows this, no? If so, what’s up with that?
I do notice that this aircraft looks older than dirt and looks like it couldn’t handle a cross wind stronger than a sneeze too well. We have used Air Sunshine before and have jokingly referred to it as a flying “bucket o’ bolts” so this wasn’t a total surprise. Basically, think of a flying BVI ferry or flying “island car” and you get the picture.
It never really bothered me before, but I have to admit it did some this time. I did find myself glancing at the oil pressure and other gauges, and watched the pilot steer around some semi-menacing clouds as we made our way right up along STT and STJ on the right and then Tortola on the left, past the Baths and then dropping quickly to landing on the dirt runway.
If we do any puddle jumps in the future, I think we will use Cape Air or Seaborne – at least their equipment doesn’t look as old or a decrepit as me (are any of you armchair psychoanalysts out there having fun with all of this yet?)
Checking out the route up Drakes Passage…
Flying past St. John
Approaching VG
We landed at 3:30 so that was pretty sweet and about as well as you can do to get to a place like Virgin Gorda from NY/NJ.
The “airport”
Da plane Da plane
I had tried to call Guavaberry (GB) from SJU to advise them of early arrival so they could re-arrange earlier taxi pick up time, but couldn’t get thru. One of the airport guys offered to call after we checked thru “customs”, and “Puck” from Mahogany Car Rentals picked us up to take us over to GB.
As we were waiting for him, the couple with the fearful flyer chatted us up a bit, asked we were staying, we told them GB down by the Baths, and were met with blank looks. We asked where they were staying and he sort of shrugged his shoulders and said some villa by “Livren Bay”. I said do you mean Leverick Bay? And he said yeah I guess that’s it.
Since they seemed so clueless, I asked them what brings you to VG? He said that somebody told him they should make sure they dive the BVIs if they ever got the chance, “so here we are”. Thankfully Puck then arrived to take us, as my next question about diving the Rhone would probably be met with more blank looks or shrugs.
Yikes. If you are going to be that passive about it all, what are the chances that you will embrace and enjoy a place like Virgin Gorda? Maybe you should just get on a cruise or do an all-inclusive elsewhere, or stay at and not leave Little Dix, Biras, or BEYC on VG. Or, just stay home.
Puck takes us over to GB, and will bring the rental car over the next day. You get a 10% discount renting it thru GB. On the ride over he asks where we’re from and then about the effects of Hurricane Sandy. We were asked about this a lot on this trip after any locals found out we are from NJ. I guess they can relate.
We see Puck around the island several times over the next few days and he is always quick with a wave and a smile. I wanted to ask him if he was the same Puck who once owned a funky restaurant next to the airport that is no longer there, but I didn’t have the heart.
We check into our 2 bedroom cottage “Alamanda” on the upper part of the GB property. Nice view from this unit.
Guavaberry wouldn’t be for everyone, especially those that like their villas with granite countertops, stainless steel appliances, hot tubs, pools, and other extra nice amenities.
But we think the location is killer, especially if you prefer a 6 minute walk to an awesome beach vs daily jeep gymnastics, and the folks (and doggies Pearl and Roxy) that own and run the place couldn’t be nicer.
They have a very well stocked “commissary” right next to the office, with prices as good as or better then the market in town for everything from rum to ready to eat meals to sunscreen to charcoal for the grills, to the dark chocolate Dove Bars we raided at night. You write down what you take and then settle up at check out (bring a check – no credit cards!)
Tina, Val, and Michelle remember their repeat visitors and will give you opinions on places to eat, make reservations for you, arrange use of the guest desktops or wi-fi in the office for a minimal charge by the half hour, and the dogs will roll over and let you scratch their belly and maybe follow you down to the beach or up to your “cottage”.
After getting settled in, we walked up the road over to Mad Dogs next to the Top of the Baths for drinks and sandwiches that were better than I remembered. Next morning Puck brings the rental around (a small “Daihatsu Terios” SUV) and instructs to leave it at the ferry dock with the keys under the mat when we leave on Sunday.
First full day we go down to the GB beach which is basically the beach between The Baths and Spring Bay. You can snorkel around the rocks on the left side and be at the entrance to the Baths in about 10 minutes – you can't walk there from the beach unless you are a goat or professional rock climber.
We pull the comfy beach chairs out of the GB beach shed and set up under the trees and dive into our books. We all feel ourselves unwinding pretty quickly. AHHHH……
My "if I won the lottery" house on the right...
That’s the “Guavaberry Beach” in the middle of the frame…
Late afternoon is a favorite time. There was almost nobody else on that beach all day long.
Dinner that night is at Mermaids Dockside Bar and Grill
http://mermaiddockside.com/index.php
– a place literally built out on a dock and that has been there for a number of years but we hadn’t been to previously.
The conch fritters were outstanding – so good that I didn’t bother ordering them the rest of the trip because I knew they would likely be a comparable disappointment. The shrimp, mahi, and a chopped lobster entrée served in a tasty buttery tomato based Caribbean spiced sauce were all very good. Nice sunset.
Right next door is the hip new restaurant on the island - Coco Maya. http://cocomayarestaurant.com/ We walked over after dinner to check it out for future eats or drinks. I had been intrigued by the photos of it and the glowing reviews.
A lot of the food and drink menu items didn’t really float our boats (and we are not big fans of sushi), or, we knew we would be getting our Thai/Asian fix at Rhumblines on STJ, and the girls at Guavaberry told us they were much underwhelmed by the various tacos.
Indeed walking through, it is very nicely designed with very cool seating on the beach etc. (check out the photo gallery on the website). There were LOTS of really well to do looking patrons there looking like they stepped out of a New York Times Styles Magazine section or Hamptons summer fashion ads with their crisp white linen outfits, jewelry, etc.
It was one of the few places on the island that was “crowded”. I assume they came down from the yachts or sailboats or $$$$ resorts (Little Dix, Biras, Bitter End Yacht Club) on the other side of the island. Maybe this is one of the few “off resort” places they deem acceptable to patronize. Although its not like we don’t seek out and patronize hip places on occasion (we are on an artisanal pizza jag here in NJ), my wife did not dig the vibe at all, so we never went back. Who am I to argue?
Next up: not much - - some details and photos from knocking about VG before an encounter with the dysfunctional BVI ferry system as we try to get back to STJ.
May 28 – June 7
For the record, this is the 6th trip to the VIs for our family of three. We got the DIF (Dreaded Island Fever) after the first trip in April 2005 to Secret Harbour on STT and Estate Lindholm on STJ (btw that is when I first discovered, joined, and came to rely on the earlier iteration of this very forum), and then there was that adventurous trip to Anegada and Virgin Gorda in June 2008…
But yes, it has been 4 long years since we’ve been to the VIs. June 2009 over Fathers Day was the last trip to STJ when we were able to score that short lived deal that Caneel ran after the economy went off the cliff for $325 a night (!), ocean view, INCLUDING that big breakfast buffet and a $200 resort credit (!)
That was when a bunch of us old time forumites (liamsaunt, Bob & Anita, Gromit, Flip, etc.) met up at Honeymoon – remember that? It seems like a long time ago, especially since (at the risk of TMI) I was going thru some initial diagnostics at the time that I didn’t want to think about, and had successful surgery later that summer for prostate cancer. The good news is that I had very minimal side effects and my PSA remains “clinically undetectable” almost 4 years later. And I expect it to stay that way.
When we returned to STJ on this trip and I reflected upon that journey when were out by Caneel, it snuck up on me and got a bit verklempt. I suppose that’s because I depended on mental images of St. John when I closed my eyes to calm myself and relax before tests and procedures. Like Jimmy says, it’s a magic kind of medicine that no doctor can prescribe…
Anyways, its not like we stopped traveling or anything, and because you can't put off what you love to do, and maybe you appreciate more then ever that “someday” may never come.
So it was off to Europe twice (London/Paris and then Italy where I got a chance to meet up with the one and only Anthony), and then we went to Kauai last May (first time to HI) – all wonderful trips.
BUT - the Caribbean beckoned us back. One thing that paying for trips to the VIs did was prove to us that if your travel budget can handle STJ, it can handle going a lot of other places too, especially if you are a good planner.
I was pushing for a return to Virgin Gorda (this would be our 3rd time) and we were both hoping for a chance to return to Caneel too. So I started looking at airfares 6+ months out and soon after a deal popped up out of JFK that I couldn’t believe, so I grabbed it and worked out the logistics to fly into San Juan, take a puddle jumper to Virgin Gorda, take the direct Sunday ferry to STJ, then nonstop back to JFK from STT.
FYI that JFK-SJU/STT-JFK round trip was only $272 each (...I’ll wait while some of you facing ridiculous airfares pick yourselves up off the floor...) Believe me, I NEVER thought I would see a sub-$300 to the VIs again.
I was also excited that Seaborne was initiating service from SJU to VG for $145 as they fly bigger and better equipment, so I booked them. But then I got an email from them about a month later that they eliminated our late afternoon flight and already cut back the number of flights to VG to one a day that leaves at 1:10pm. That makes NO sense at all for folks making connections from the mainland. Cancelled that reservation and made one with Air Sunshine for $138 one way. Our flight from JFK was scheduled to get in around 1 pm so I had to book their 5 pm flight, but they said they would put us on an earlier flight if they could.
After booking flights, I booked a return stay at Guavaberry on VG. Their off season rates are pretty reasonable and their beach is one of my favorite places on earth.
As for STJ, that 2009 Caneel deal seems mighty lucky and a bit crazy now because we were really hoping that a decent deal would pop up, but that wasn’t happening – perhaps confirmation that the economy is doing just fine for those who don’t blink at those Caneel prices.
But the numbers were just too high for us when paying for a third person in the room, plus the breakfast buffet, plus another 20% (for tax and resort fee) – would you believe over $700 per night?
We briefly considered the villa option, but that wasn’t working too well for 5 nights for our small crew of 3, plus we would likely opt to eat out most if not all nights, because who wants to spend the time shopping, prepping, cooking, and cleaning up meals after doing that for the other 50 weeks of the year?
Not that there is anything wrong with that, and, God bless those of you who willingly tackle that. Makes more sense (even to us) if you are in one spot for a week or more, AND especially if you have others to share/split the KP duties and costs with.
Kitchen Patrol for us consisted of simple breakfasts, maybe reheat some leftovers, and the daily prep of the beach drinks – nalgene bottles of the Rum Punch of the Day, Gatorade, and ice tea or Crystal Light Pink Lemonade from concentrate powders we tote down (useful TIP), and refilling the ice cube trays.
After further consideration, we decided that for STJ it would be best to stay in or as close to town as possible as we would enjoy that after the remoteness of Virgin Gorda. So we were able to book Gallows after I contacted them directly and was offered a stay for 5 pay for 4 nights deal. We asked for and got an updated ocean upper.
I should mention that this trip almost didn’t happen – a return to Europe was seriously considered because my daughter did a study abroad in Germany for 2 ½ weeks, leaving the day after finals and returning May 24. We considered meeting up with her in Munich and then continuing on thru the Austrian Alps to Salzburg and Vienna, and then to Prague – all places in central Europe I would like to see.
Thinking that could be too much time away for her, that she didn’t have ANY time to de-compress after finals, plus the siren call of “its been too long since I’ve seen that Caribbean water” made us pull the trigger on this trip.
But wouldn’t you know that just days after I booked the flights, Springsteen announced the dates for that leg of the European tour, and that he would be playing Munich on May 26th (!) How cool would’ve that been to see him over there? (we are huge fans) And, I wonder how much sway that could’ve had on the decision making process…
More 20/20 hindsight: the UEFA (European soccer club) final was May 25th and it featured two German teams, with the team from Munich winning a thrilling game.
How much fun would’ve it been to do a pub crawl in Munich during that game? My daughter and I enjoyed a pub crawl while in London during the semifinals of the 2010 World Cup, and went to watch the final on the big screen at the base of the Eiffel Tower in Paris = pretty cool experiences. This UEFA final was played at Wembley in London, and my daughter saw a huge charter group of Bayern Munich fans at the airport the day of her departure from Germany.
Even more 20/20 hindsight, but this is the opposite so-glad-we-didn’t-do-Europe kind: my daughter had unseasonably cold and rainy weather most of the time over there, then, in the past few weeks there have been torrential rains causing major flooding throughout central Europe. Now THAT would’ve sucked. Spring here in NJ in April/May wasn’t too good either, so we were ALL hurting for some sun and warmth, and were quite pumped to GET BACK TO D-iLONS.
Our day of departure for the VIs is the day after Memorial Day. That travel day went about as well as can be expected. The drive out to JFK from central NJ is only about 50 miles but can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hrs depending on the huge wildcards of traffic thru Staten Island and Brooklyn, not to mention the awful drivers on the Belt Parkway. No offense, but I think there are a lot of New Yorkers who are rather challenged when it comes to driving at highway speed, but, I digress…
After checking multiple traffic reports, we left the house before 6, flight left on time, arrived SJU early. As many would concur, SJU is the pits, but I did notice there is a new, rather large Margaritaville there right in the airport. Go figure. Previously, decent amenities did not really exist there. We packed sandwiches and Cliff Bars for the plane ride anyway.
The girls were able to fetch their checked bags rather quickly, and we headed back up and over the Air Sunshine desk, where they ask you how much YOU weigh and also weigh all your luggage and carry ons so they can properly balance the plane.
I did carry-on this trip and it worked out well. Used a new Travelpro Maxlite2 that is pretty sweet and I can highly recommend. If I use it one more time it will pay for itself. It is super light weight, well designed, and appears to be plenty sturdy enough for occasional leisure and business travel. Nice blue color too.
Air Sunshine tells us we can get on the next flight leaving, but we would have to hustle down to get it, so she has us escorted to the employee line that cuts into the front of the LONG security line. We try to avoid the dirty looks from those on the regular line LOL.
We hustle downstairs and proceed to wait with no additional information, but it is not too long before we are loaded up into the 10 seat Cessna for the quick flight over to VG.
There is a woman on the plane sitting next to my wife and right in front of me that looks pretty freaked out and continually makes the sign of the cross as we taxi and take off. Then she grips the seat in front of her in which her husband is sitting and keeps her head down for most of the ride.
And – get this – her husband never once even glances back to see how she is doing. After we land, she says “I’m not a good flyer”. Surely HE knows this, no? If so, what’s up with that?
I do notice that this aircraft looks older than dirt and looks like it couldn’t handle a cross wind stronger than a sneeze too well. We have used Air Sunshine before and have jokingly referred to it as a flying “bucket o’ bolts” so this wasn’t a total surprise. Basically, think of a flying BVI ferry or flying “island car” and you get the picture.
It never really bothered me before, but I have to admit it did some this time. I did find myself glancing at the oil pressure and other gauges, and watched the pilot steer around some semi-menacing clouds as we made our way right up along STT and STJ on the right and then Tortola on the left, past the Baths and then dropping quickly to landing on the dirt runway.
If we do any puddle jumps in the future, I think we will use Cape Air or Seaborne – at least their equipment doesn’t look as old or a decrepit as me (are any of you armchair psychoanalysts out there having fun with all of this yet?)
Checking out the route up Drakes Passage…
Flying past St. John
Approaching VG
We landed at 3:30 so that was pretty sweet and about as well as you can do to get to a place like Virgin Gorda from NY/NJ.
The “airport”
Da plane Da plane
I had tried to call Guavaberry (GB) from SJU to advise them of early arrival so they could re-arrange earlier taxi pick up time, but couldn’t get thru. One of the airport guys offered to call after we checked thru “customs”, and “Puck” from Mahogany Car Rentals picked us up to take us over to GB.
As we were waiting for him, the couple with the fearful flyer chatted us up a bit, asked we were staying, we told them GB down by the Baths, and were met with blank looks. We asked where they were staying and he sort of shrugged his shoulders and said some villa by “Livren Bay”. I said do you mean Leverick Bay? And he said yeah I guess that’s it.
Since they seemed so clueless, I asked them what brings you to VG? He said that somebody told him they should make sure they dive the BVIs if they ever got the chance, “so here we are”. Thankfully Puck then arrived to take us, as my next question about diving the Rhone would probably be met with more blank looks or shrugs.
Yikes. If you are going to be that passive about it all, what are the chances that you will embrace and enjoy a place like Virgin Gorda? Maybe you should just get on a cruise or do an all-inclusive elsewhere, or stay at and not leave Little Dix, Biras, or BEYC on VG. Or, just stay home.
Puck takes us over to GB, and will bring the rental car over the next day. You get a 10% discount renting it thru GB. On the ride over he asks where we’re from and then about the effects of Hurricane Sandy. We were asked about this a lot on this trip after any locals found out we are from NJ. I guess they can relate.
We see Puck around the island several times over the next few days and he is always quick with a wave and a smile. I wanted to ask him if he was the same Puck who once owned a funky restaurant next to the airport that is no longer there, but I didn’t have the heart.
We check into our 2 bedroom cottage “Alamanda” on the upper part of the GB property. Nice view from this unit.
Guavaberry wouldn’t be for everyone, especially those that like their villas with granite countertops, stainless steel appliances, hot tubs, pools, and other extra nice amenities.
But we think the location is killer, especially if you prefer a 6 minute walk to an awesome beach vs daily jeep gymnastics, and the folks (and doggies Pearl and Roxy) that own and run the place couldn’t be nicer.
They have a very well stocked “commissary” right next to the office, with prices as good as or better then the market in town for everything from rum to ready to eat meals to sunscreen to charcoal for the grills, to the dark chocolate Dove Bars we raided at night. You write down what you take and then settle up at check out (bring a check – no credit cards!)
Tina, Val, and Michelle remember their repeat visitors and will give you opinions on places to eat, make reservations for you, arrange use of the guest desktops or wi-fi in the office for a minimal charge by the half hour, and the dogs will roll over and let you scratch their belly and maybe follow you down to the beach or up to your “cottage”.
After getting settled in, we walked up the road over to Mad Dogs next to the Top of the Baths for drinks and sandwiches that were better than I remembered. Next morning Puck brings the rental around (a small “Daihatsu Terios” SUV) and instructs to leave it at the ferry dock with the keys under the mat when we leave on Sunday.
First full day we go down to the GB beach which is basically the beach between The Baths and Spring Bay. You can snorkel around the rocks on the left side and be at the entrance to the Baths in about 10 minutes – you can't walk there from the beach unless you are a goat or professional rock climber.
We pull the comfy beach chairs out of the GB beach shed and set up under the trees and dive into our books. We all feel ourselves unwinding pretty quickly. AHHHH……
My "if I won the lottery" house on the right...
That’s the “Guavaberry Beach” in the middle of the frame…
Late afternoon is a favorite time. There was almost nobody else on that beach all day long.
Dinner that night is at Mermaids Dockside Bar and Grill
http://mermaiddockside.com/index.php
– a place literally built out on a dock and that has been there for a number of years but we hadn’t been to previously.
The conch fritters were outstanding – so good that I didn’t bother ordering them the rest of the trip because I knew they would likely be a comparable disappointment. The shrimp, mahi, and a chopped lobster entrée served in a tasty buttery tomato based Caribbean spiced sauce were all very good. Nice sunset.
Right next door is the hip new restaurant on the island - Coco Maya. http://cocomayarestaurant.com/ We walked over after dinner to check it out for future eats or drinks. I had been intrigued by the photos of it and the glowing reviews.
A lot of the food and drink menu items didn’t really float our boats (and we are not big fans of sushi), or, we knew we would be getting our Thai/Asian fix at Rhumblines on STJ, and the girls at Guavaberry told us they were much underwhelmed by the various tacos.
Indeed walking through, it is very nicely designed with very cool seating on the beach etc. (check out the photo gallery on the website). There were LOTS of really well to do looking patrons there looking like they stepped out of a New York Times Styles Magazine section or Hamptons summer fashion ads with their crisp white linen outfits, jewelry, etc.
It was one of the few places on the island that was “crowded”. I assume they came down from the yachts or sailboats or $$$$ resorts (Little Dix, Biras, Bitter End Yacht Club) on the other side of the island. Maybe this is one of the few “off resort” places they deem acceptable to patronize. Although its not like we don’t seek out and patronize hip places on occasion (we are on an artisanal pizza jag here in NJ), my wife did not dig the vibe at all, so we never went back. Who am I to argue?
Next up: not much - - some details and photos from knocking about VG before an encounter with the dysfunctional BVI ferry system as we try to get back to STJ.
Cant wait for the next installment
There were a ton of forumites there that day. In addition to who you mentioned, I remember Tracy in WI and her son, Pia, Lesley, plus Ruth and if I remember right Ron came by in his dinghy for a while too. Good times.