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10 more days in paradise, part 2

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:33 am
by liamsaunt
Part one here:
http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... 6f84f98c09
Day four:

We headed to Francis Bay. What a beautiful day! The water was calm and the sky was clear, and there were no bugs! That is one definite advantage to coming to St. John in the on season—way less no see ums and mosquitos!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450842728/" title="francis beacky by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/545 ... 743611.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis beacky"></a>

Our preferred snorkel is the right side along the rocks as far out as we can go, and then cross back across the bay to look for turtles and rays. Here are some of our sightings:

Rock hind:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450232227/" title="grasby by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/545 ... 61fe94.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="grasby"></a>

Chub:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450231087/" title="francis chub by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/545 ... d9147d.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis chub"></a>

Needlefish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450230919/" title="francis ballyhoo by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/545 ... f11624.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis ballyhoo"></a>

Turtles:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450842468/" title="francis turtle rising by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/545 ... 26ceaa.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="francis turtle rising"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450842240/" title="francis turtle surfacing by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/545 ... 9f6a19.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="francis turtle surfacing"></a>

Squirrelfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450230761/" title="francis squirrelfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/545 ... 6d6146.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis squirrelfish"></a>

Parrotfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450230601/" title="francis stoplight parrotfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/545 ... fbdc3f.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="francis stoplight parrotfish"></a>

We found lots of octopus gardens, but no actual octopi this time. No rays either.

We stayed all day and then headed back for (yes) yet another beautiful sunset:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450234035/" title="sunset 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/545 ... 39b7f2.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="sunset 2"></a>

After sunset:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450843264/" title="afterglow by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/545 ... f84e3b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="afterglow"></a>

We went into town and it was packed! No room at Lime Inn or Waterfront Bistro, and La Plancha del Mar was closed. I wish I had remembered Banana Deck! It is one of my favorites, and I always forget it is there. We ended up at DaLivio. It was OK, not great. Better than when we ate there a couple of years ago, but it would not make my top 15.

Day five:

We started the day by heading over to the Marketplace to check out the new deli that the owner of Zozos opened, Sam and Jacks. I was really impressed! They have a large selection of sandwiches to choose from, both hot and cold, plus a variety of salads and desserts, and St. John Brewers root beer on tap. The thing that most interested me was that they also sell bread, pizza dough, housemade pastas, and a variety of housemade sauces. They also had vacuum packed Italian sliced meats and cheeses, and they were selling different types of sausages that you can grill. When we come back in the summer and stay at a villa where I will have better cooking facilities (hopefully!), I will be coming back here for supplies.

We were feeling lazy so headed back to Maho. No snorkeling again today, just relaxing in the water and on the beach with books:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450234321/" title="maho 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/545 ... 1ce056.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="maho 2"></a>

Here are photos of what we purchased at Sam and Jacks for lunch: Salami:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450843968/" title="jack and sams salami by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/545 ... 0bc1f2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="jack and sams salami"></a>

Turkey with arugula, cheese, and IIRC, cranberry aioli):

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450844146/" title="jack and sams jackson peep by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/545 ... d34c92.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="jack and sams jackson peep"></a>

“Homemade” chips and pesto pasta salad:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450844334/" title="jack and sams pasta pesto and homemade chips by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5180/545 ... 7e9911.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="jack and sams pasta pesto and homemade chips"></a>


After a day spent lounging at Maho, we headed back to Gallows to get cleaned up for another one of our favorite meals on island, Zozos.

Paparadelle with wild mushrooms:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450235329/" title="zozs mushroom papparadelle by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/545 ... 5c03d0.jpg" width="500" height="351" alt="zozs mushroom papparadelle"></a>

This was delicious! Not too heavy and just the right portion size. I finished this and I almost never finish anything on my plate.

Gnocchi with corn and lobster:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450235251/" title="zozos lobster and corn gnocchi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/545 ... 364221.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="zozos lobster and corn gnocchi"></a>

John liked this very much, he said the lobster was perfectly seasoned. I tried it, but I have an aversion to lobster so my opinion is not relevant here.

Grouper with leek cream:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450235633/" title="zozos grouper with leek cream by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/545 ... 0d6a8d.jpg" width="500" height="256" alt="zozos grouper with leek cream"></a>

Really fresh, delicious fish. The grouper had an herb crust and the carmelized tomatoes with it were fantastic.

Mahi mahi with polenta croutons and goat cheese-arugula salad:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450235557/" title="zozos mahi mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/545 ... ca2607.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="zozos mahi mahi"></a>

I have to order this every time, I just love it so much. Luckily John likes it too, so we share our entrees and get some of each.

Zozos sunset:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450235457/" title="zozos sunset 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/545 ... ebe0a7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="zozos sunset 2"></a>

Not as good as from our balcony, but still pretty good.

Day six

We wanted to snorkel Haulover North. I love the path and how you can just see that sliver of bright blue water before you pop out from the trees:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450236703/" title="haulover north entrance 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/545 ... fc905a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover north entrance 2"></a>

Unfortunately, it was way too rough to snorkel. This picture does not show it well, but there were large waves breaking and a strong current running.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450846838/" title="haulover north whole by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/545 ... 4e9281.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover north whole"></a>

Luckily, if Haulover North is too rough, Haulover South is a five minute walk away!


Smooth trunkfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450237765/" title="haulover south trunkfish 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/545 ... e5b530.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="haulover south trunkfish 2"></a>

We found a lionfish here. It was already marked. Nasty little bugger. Lionfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450237501/" title="haulover south lionfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/545 ... a45f66.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="haulover south lionfish"></a>

Anenome:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450845458/" title="haulover south anenome by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/545 ... d59860.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="haulover south anenome"></a>


After the snorkel we decided to head to Miss Lucys for lunch.

Friis Bay:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450238531/" title="friis bay by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/545 ... 316d75.jpg" width="500" height="367" alt="friis bay"></a>

I was glad to see that the big old tree that used to provide such lovely shade was not completely dead like I thought it was after the hurricane. Part of it survived, and the owners have built a large concrete block to support the remaining tree. Miss Lucy’s tree post-storm:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450238343/" title="miss lucys tree with concrete black by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/545 ... 32b03c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="miss lucys tree with concrete black"></a>

I was craving vegetables, so we shared a bowl of callaloo which is an okra-spinach soup with crabmeat:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450848082/" title="miss lucys callaloo by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/545 ... d34171.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="miss lucys callaloo"></a>

Really good! Nice yummy dark and healthy greens.

John had the grouper reuben:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450848322/" title="miss lucys grouper rueben by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/545 ... cd3406.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="miss lucys grouper rueben"></a>

Which he enjoyed very much. I have had this sandwich before and concur that it is tasty.

I ordered the chicken roti:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450848188/" title="miss lucys roti with chicken by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/545 ... f53c88.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="miss lucys roti with chicken"></a>

I am not sure why it came with fries, since the roti is full of potatoes. The roti was very good, a nice curry flavor and the mango chutney is a must.

I just really like eating here. The breeze off of the bay is so nice. Oddly, there were no chickens and goats around this time, they must have been moved somewhere else.

After a relaxing afternoon we decided to head to Trunk Bay for an end of day snorkel. I like coming here at the end of the day, after all of the cruise folks have left. The beach is so quiet and peaceful.

Trunk at end of day:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450242671/" title="trunk end of day by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5291/545 ... bf351f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk end of day"></a>

Even though the beginning of the snorkel trail is all rubble, if you go out further, there are some interesting things to be seen. Night seargant:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450241409/" title="trunk night s by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/545 ... 44e452.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk night s"></a>

Flamingo tounge:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450241117/" title="trunk flamingo tounge by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/545 ... 669e01.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk flamingo tounge"></a>

Seargant majors:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450850266/" title="trunk sms 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/545 ... 48921f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="trunk sms 2"></a>

We came out of the snorkel to find a wedding happening on either side of us! That is the only downfall of Trunk at around sunset. Having to trudge past a wedding in dripping snorkel gear is kind of embarrassing.

We went back to Gallows for what would be the weakest sunset of the trip:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450852016/" title="friday sunset 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/545 ... ec24c0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="friday sunset 2"></a>


And then went to dinner at Fatty Crab. This was its second night open, and it was hopping. I don’t have much in the way of pictures, but I will tell you about what we ordered (with prices since that seems to be an issue for some).

They way it works is that you order everything you feel like eating at the same time, and it comes out when it is ready. This means that everything is super hot and fresh. Dishes are meant to be shared. The waitress told us that they recommend 3-5 dishes for 2 people. We ordered 4 small dishes and one large dish because we wanted to try a lot of things. Personally, I think two small dishes and one large dish is enough for a couple. I tried to take photos but it is really dark inside and most did not come out. The two I saved are borderline, sorry for the quality.

What we ordered: a special of mahi tartare ($22):

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450852854/" title="fatty crab mahi tartare by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/545 ... fafa4c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="fatty crab mahi tartare"></a>

This was very nice, very fresh fish with lots of flavor from the mix ins.

Papaya salad ($13). Hot, sour, salty, and sweet, this was really great! It was a good foil to the fried things we ordered.

Salt and pepper squid ($16):


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/5450243469/" title="fatty crab salt and pepper shrimp by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/545 ... 124a32.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="fatty crab salt and pepper shrimp"></a>


Again, a very nice dish. The squid tasted very clean, and had just the right amount of pepper. I loved the spicy sauce on the side.

Crispy shrimp ($29). This was the second fried dish we ordered. Jumbo shrimp with a spicy dipping sauce. The texture of the shrimp was good, and the coating was lightly crispy, but I did not care for this dish as the shrimp tasted of iodine. I know that this is a natural characteristic of some shrimp, brown shrimp especially, but I personally find it offputting. John enjoyed it.

Nasi lemak ($23): This is a Malaysian rice dish—mound of coconut rice topped with chiles, chicken, scallions, a soft poached egg, peanuts, etc. You mix everything together to eat the dish. The chicken was fall off the bone tender. The flavors were great, and the texture of the rice was excellent. This dish alone would have been enough food for two people.

Overall, we really liked it. It is something different, and I appreciated the spice level in the food. I like spicy stuff. We would definitely come back. Total for the food and a bottle of wine was $156. (The wine was $48 ) We also ordered two cocktails ($10 each) but they ended up being comped because of a bar glitch.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:12 pm
by Kealani
Thanks for the reports wonderful as always

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:29 pm
by gibber161
Great report....my wife and I plan on hitting Sam and Jack's when we get there because it sounds so good. Do you remember the hours of operation? We love sitting under the big tree eating the Grouper Reuben at Miss Lucy's. Glad they have been able to save the tree so far.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:37 pm
by EagleRayLover
I really enjoy reading you report Becky :) - can tell this is just what you need! how long can you stay in the water before getting a real chill?

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:00 pm
by msgcolleen
Yummy eye candy! I enjoyed it all~ Thanks!:wink:

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:17 pm
by ToonMann
Terrific photos.

Best food photography I've seen here.

Thanks!

TM

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:18 pm
by samoka
Thanks for another great trip report - the pictures are great - my stomach is growling after seeing them!

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:33 pm
by sailorgirl
What a treat to come home from a day of errands to Part 2. Thanks!!!!!

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 3:42 pm
by Earlyriser
Great trip report! Beautiful pictures! I know the feeling about being in the middle of a wedding! Seems like a common thing, lol! :)

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:55 pm
by 17th Hole
Awesome report! Loving it all! Thanks again for sharing! Those food pictures are making me hungry - and I just ate!

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:19 pm
by iowaguy
Becky---If that sunset photo showed the weakest sunset of your trip, you must have had some pretty great sunsets. The sunsets are a really nice feature of Gallows Point.I love all the food reviews and fantastic photography. Anxious to try Sam and Jack's. May also give the Fatty Crab a try---perhaps just for cocktails and appetizers.

Always love your trip reports!

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:10 pm
by liamsaunt
gibber, I am not sure of the hours. I know they are closed on Mondays. They had a big sign up saying "dinner soon come" when we were there.

iowaguy, this trip had the best sunsets of any other time I have been to St. John. After 16 trips since 2003, that is saying something.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:18 pm
by Wanda Creech
Your pictures are always beautiful. They are so clear.
I feel like I am in the water with the fish. Of course it could just be that you take great pictures. I know people have asked, but what kind of camera do you use?
I am thinking of getting a new one.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:33 pm
by ronbo3107
Wow, wonderful report make me wish I would of made our reservations a couple of weeks sooner.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:44 pm
by California Girl
Sam & Jack's sounds like a winner! I'm not so sure I'd like the menu at Fatty Crab, though.

Thanks for more great pictures!