OT Trip Report & Photos – London pt. 1
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:55 am
Trip report and some pix from recent trip to London and Paris. Second time to Europe for family of 3. First trip was to Switzerland in 07 that was awesome and had us wanting to return to Europe, but to where?
Italy and Greece are at the top of the list, but Greece is a bit of a mess right now, and we only had the opportunity to go in early July, and based on what I’ve read, you really want to avoid the crowds in Italy in July/August.
So we asked my daughter where she wanted to go and she came up with London and Paris. After all, this was a HS graduation gift that was enabled by the college scholarship money she received and also as reward for her hard work that resulted in being named class Salutatorian. Quite an accomplishment finishing #2 out of a class of 468 at a Blue Ribbon HS. She had to write and deliver a speech at commencement – nerve wracking, but very gratifying.
Plus I went through a pretty serious health thing last year that just reinforced that life is too short and precious to be saying “oh, we’ll do that someday”, so we started putting this trip together only about 3 months ago, hoping that maybe the cities wouldn’t be too crowded. And, both the Pound and the Euro were going in the right direction, so the trip would be about 20% cheaper than at the beginning of the year.
Had some trouble gaining traction on the trip research, but always start with studying the maps cross referenced with the top sights to figure out time needed and logistics. I liked the Frommers “Day by Day” guide I recently used for San Diego, so got the London and Paris versions, plus the Rick Steves Paris (his Switzerland book was likewise helpful), supplemented with stuff on Tripadvisor. It was interesting to note that there are folks on the TA Paris forum that are as obsessed with Paris as folks are about St. John.
The maps in those Frommers guides are very good – there are 33 maps in the London guide, and 40 maps in the Paris guide. The front fold out of the Paris guide was especially helpful with a city map on one side and the Paris Metro (subway) map on the other.
Researching Paris was freaking me out a little because of the language difference, and the first (and second) look at the Metro map can be a little intimidating. I was also picturing emerging from the Metro in a complex part of the city and not having a clue which way was which, so I ordered this neat little compass that is built into a D ring that I attached to my 25 yr old LLBean camera bag. Man, did that thing come in handy to figure out which way we wanted to go in both cities. Only went down the wrong block once in each city before correcting after a few hundred yards (or should I say meters).
Enough prelude. Friday July 2 evening flight out of JFK on AA. Very weird to be going to the airport in the late afternoon vs. early morning. We had learned from our other transatlantic trip to be prepared with the inflatable neck pillows, eyeshades, extra comfy clothes, etc. I got a pair of noise canceling headphones for the iPod. They worked pretty good to cut the engine noise.
In an effort to receive something edible, we also tried ordering special meals, signing up for 2 vegetarian and one diabetic. We are neither, but figured we might get something better than mystery meat. The diabetic meal was salmon which wasn’t bad, but the vegetarian was some really awful Indian food. The plane was equipped with those TV monitors in the seats in front so you could choose what and when to watch.
With some limited napping on the plane, arrive Heathrow about 8:30am Sat July 3 London time after the 6+ hr flight. The AA terminal of our arrival was pretty old and used looking, tried to find a bank ATM to get some British pounds. Had been warned in TA forums not to use the ATMs owned by Travelex and other currency exchange services as your exchange rate would be awful. Couldn’t find one in this area, so just continued on to find the bus service we would take into the city, assuming I could use a CC to pay for those tix. (BTW used the Capital One CC on this trip – one of the few that do not charge a “foreign exchange fee” of 2-3%. On a trip like this, that can add up to real money) You can also take the Tube aka Underground (subway), but learned on TA that National Express runs these nice coach busses into the city several times an hour for just a little more than the tube, and when I saw that they terminated at the Victoria coach station that was walking distance to our hotel, and you get to see some of the city on the ride in, it became a no brainer.
Nice ride into the city, walk and roll suitcases the few blocks to hotel, ParkPlaza Victoria. Too early for check in, but drop bags, start walking towards Westminster Abbey, finding a Barclays bank ATM, stop at a Pret A Manger for good sandwiches on the way.
Did the Westminster Abbey audio tour, saw Big Ben, London Eye, walked over the Westminster Bridge, etc. and back to hotel to check in. Somehow we got the concierge level room at the regular triple rate, which means breakfast was included, as well as free happy hour stuff. Nice! Room was decent size for Europe, new bathroom. I think we all napped, then walk to dinner at “The Orange” sort of an upscale pub in the nearby posh Belgravia neighborhood. Of course, the World Cup was on the telly.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Is ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcNd ... 7.JPG"></a>
Westminster Abbey – parts of this Gothic structure dates from 1245. All of the coronations of English and British monarchs were held in the Abbey since that time, and all sorts Kings and Queens of England and aristocrats are buried there. The place reeks of serious history. No photography allowed inside.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WM ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oW ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ds ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oY ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hg ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcN3 ... 7.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yW ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oa ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YP ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcPK ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SH ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TDzWu ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pk ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2pA ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HB ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2w_ ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AY ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2pB ... 1.JPG"></a>
Everyone slept well, and I’m thinking “what jet lag?” Breakfast at hotel. A traditional type of English breakfast is bacon, eggs, grilled tomato, and beans. Fruit, yogurt, and cereal was also available. Walked down to the Thames to catch the river boat up to the Tate Modern Musuem. The Tate Modern was very good, and surprisingly, very comparable in quality and quantity to the MOMA in NYC. Walked over the Millennium bridge up towards St Paul’s Cathedral (that’s where Princess Di got married). We are scheduled to see that again later (inside) on a tour we were signed up with.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m4 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2os ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Iu ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2ov ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LA ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2ox ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sd ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2o7 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qr ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2o3 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pp ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcP1 ... 0.JPG"></a>
Down to the subway to get our “Oyster” cards = smart cards that you load up with X money and swipe going in and out of the Tube, automatically deducts fare prorated on zone/distance traveled and time of day. You can turn your cards in at end of trip to redeem 3 pound deposit and unused fare. Pretty slick and much more sophisticated than the flat rate NYC subway.
The girls want to do shopping this afternoon so we take the Tube to Piccadilly Circus, which is touted as the Times Sq of London but is small and hardly that, mostly cheesy souvenir shops, although there was one nicer store call “Total Britain” that was pretty good.
From there, we make the mistake to walk all the way about a mile to Harrods, another famous shopping destination about a mile away. Although it was pretty cool to see the transition from cheesy stores to upscale retail and hotels and parks along the route, it exhausted us. Harrods is like Bloomingdales on steroids. It had a fantastic food court that included an oyster bar and a chocolate bar.
Took the Tube back to one stop past our hotel for dinner at the White Swan – a traditional English pub for great draft beer, fish n chips, “jacket” potatoes, and “Farmers” cheddar cheese. Good stuff.
Walked back up to hotel, 2 of us fell asleep for a little while, then we all tried to go to sleep at about 10, but we were all tossing and turning to 2am. Yikes. My “what jet lag?” proclamation came back to haunt me.
Next Up: we get abandoned by our tourgroup at the Tower of London.
Italy and Greece are at the top of the list, but Greece is a bit of a mess right now, and we only had the opportunity to go in early July, and based on what I’ve read, you really want to avoid the crowds in Italy in July/August.
So we asked my daughter where she wanted to go and she came up with London and Paris. After all, this was a HS graduation gift that was enabled by the college scholarship money she received and also as reward for her hard work that resulted in being named class Salutatorian. Quite an accomplishment finishing #2 out of a class of 468 at a Blue Ribbon HS. She had to write and deliver a speech at commencement – nerve wracking, but very gratifying.
Plus I went through a pretty serious health thing last year that just reinforced that life is too short and precious to be saying “oh, we’ll do that someday”, so we started putting this trip together only about 3 months ago, hoping that maybe the cities wouldn’t be too crowded. And, both the Pound and the Euro were going in the right direction, so the trip would be about 20% cheaper than at the beginning of the year.
Had some trouble gaining traction on the trip research, but always start with studying the maps cross referenced with the top sights to figure out time needed and logistics. I liked the Frommers “Day by Day” guide I recently used for San Diego, so got the London and Paris versions, plus the Rick Steves Paris (his Switzerland book was likewise helpful), supplemented with stuff on Tripadvisor. It was interesting to note that there are folks on the TA Paris forum that are as obsessed with Paris as folks are about St. John.
The maps in those Frommers guides are very good – there are 33 maps in the London guide, and 40 maps in the Paris guide. The front fold out of the Paris guide was especially helpful with a city map on one side and the Paris Metro (subway) map on the other.
Researching Paris was freaking me out a little because of the language difference, and the first (and second) look at the Metro map can be a little intimidating. I was also picturing emerging from the Metro in a complex part of the city and not having a clue which way was which, so I ordered this neat little compass that is built into a D ring that I attached to my 25 yr old LLBean camera bag. Man, did that thing come in handy to figure out which way we wanted to go in both cities. Only went down the wrong block once in each city before correcting after a few hundred yards (or should I say meters).
Enough prelude. Friday July 2 evening flight out of JFK on AA. Very weird to be going to the airport in the late afternoon vs. early morning. We had learned from our other transatlantic trip to be prepared with the inflatable neck pillows, eyeshades, extra comfy clothes, etc. I got a pair of noise canceling headphones for the iPod. They worked pretty good to cut the engine noise.
In an effort to receive something edible, we also tried ordering special meals, signing up for 2 vegetarian and one diabetic. We are neither, but figured we might get something better than mystery meat. The diabetic meal was salmon which wasn’t bad, but the vegetarian was some really awful Indian food. The plane was equipped with those TV monitors in the seats in front so you could choose what and when to watch.
With some limited napping on the plane, arrive Heathrow about 8:30am Sat July 3 London time after the 6+ hr flight. The AA terminal of our arrival was pretty old and used looking, tried to find a bank ATM to get some British pounds. Had been warned in TA forums not to use the ATMs owned by Travelex and other currency exchange services as your exchange rate would be awful. Couldn’t find one in this area, so just continued on to find the bus service we would take into the city, assuming I could use a CC to pay for those tix. (BTW used the Capital One CC on this trip – one of the few that do not charge a “foreign exchange fee” of 2-3%. On a trip like this, that can add up to real money) You can also take the Tube aka Underground (subway), but learned on TA that National Express runs these nice coach busses into the city several times an hour for just a little more than the tube, and when I saw that they terminated at the Victoria coach station that was walking distance to our hotel, and you get to see some of the city on the ride in, it became a no brainer.
Nice ride into the city, walk and roll suitcases the few blocks to hotel, ParkPlaza Victoria. Too early for check in, but drop bags, start walking towards Westminster Abbey, finding a Barclays bank ATM, stop at a Pret A Manger for good sandwiches on the way.
Did the Westminster Abbey audio tour, saw Big Ben, London Eye, walked over the Westminster Bridge, etc. and back to hotel to check in. Somehow we got the concierge level room at the regular triple rate, which means breakfast was included, as well as free happy hour stuff. Nice! Room was decent size for Europe, new bathroom. I think we all napped, then walk to dinner at “The Orange” sort of an upscale pub in the nearby posh Belgravia neighborhood. Of course, the World Cup was on the telly.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Is ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcNd ... 7.JPG"></a>
Westminster Abbey – parts of this Gothic structure dates from 1245. All of the coronations of English and British monarchs were held in the Abbey since that time, and all sorts Kings and Queens of England and aristocrats are buried there. The place reeks of serious history. No photography allowed inside.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WM ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oW ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ds ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oY ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hg ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcN3 ... 7.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yW ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2oa ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YP ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcPK ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SH ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TDzWu ... 1.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pk ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2pA ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HB ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2w_ ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AY ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2pB ... 1.JPG"></a>
Everyone slept well, and I’m thinking “what jet lag?” Breakfast at hotel. A traditional type of English breakfast is bacon, eggs, grilled tomato, and beans. Fruit, yogurt, and cereal was also available. Walked down to the Thames to catch the river boat up to the Tate Modern Musuem. The Tate Modern was very good, and surprisingly, very comparable in quality and quantity to the MOMA in NYC. Walked over the Millennium bridge up towards St Paul’s Cathedral (that’s where Princess Di got married). We are scheduled to see that again later (inside) on a tour we were signed up with.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m4 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2os ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Iu ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2ov ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LA ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2ox ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sd ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2o7 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qr ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TD2o3 ... 1.JPG"></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pp ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8poT_jdtsYw/TEcP1 ... 0.JPG"></a>
Down to the subway to get our “Oyster” cards = smart cards that you load up with X money and swipe going in and out of the Tube, automatically deducts fare prorated on zone/distance traveled and time of day. You can turn your cards in at end of trip to redeem 3 pound deposit and unused fare. Pretty slick and much more sophisticated than the flat rate NYC subway.
The girls want to do shopping this afternoon so we take the Tube to Piccadilly Circus, which is touted as the Times Sq of London but is small and hardly that, mostly cheesy souvenir shops, although there was one nicer store call “Total Britain” that was pretty good.
From there, we make the mistake to walk all the way about a mile to Harrods, another famous shopping destination about a mile away. Although it was pretty cool to see the transition from cheesy stores to upscale retail and hotels and parks along the route, it exhausted us. Harrods is like Bloomingdales on steroids. It had a fantastic food court that included an oyster bar and a chocolate bar.
Took the Tube back to one stop past our hotel for dinner at the White Swan – a traditional English pub for great draft beer, fish n chips, “jacket” potatoes, and “Farmers” cheddar cheese. Good stuff.
Walked back up to hotel, 2 of us fell asleep for a little while, then we all tried to go to sleep at about 10, but we were all tossing and turning to 2am. Yikes. My “what jet lag?” proclamation came back to haunt me.
Next Up: we get abandoned by our tourgroup at the Tower of London.