USVI-On-Line

Part one here: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... 195e371f81

Part two here: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... hp?t=13072

Day 11. Last day at Vida de Mar. BOO. Made a breakfast of poached eggs and crumbled bacon with josephines micogreens on cheese toasts:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714721706/" title="Vida de Mar eb revised by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/371 ... 3502e9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Vida de Mar eb revised"></a>

then we ended up going to Maho again.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714653464/" title="Maho wide view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2516/371 ... 6c5015.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Maho wide view"></a>

We did not feel like snorkeling today, so just spent the day swimming in the water. There were lots of baby turtles popping up all around us. It was Father’s Day and a large group of locals was bbqing on the beach. It smelled SO good. Here is a picture of my yacht. If you’d like, you can join me on it for a vacation.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713926169/" title="YACHTS with TOYS 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2578/371 ... 1fa347.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="YACHTS with TOYS 2"></a>


We ended up leaving Maho earlier than we planned because the mosquitos were pretty bad. Yet more pool time (can you tell that we liked the pool?), then we headed into town for the forum gathering at the Beach Bar. It was a big group and a bunch of people have already talked about it. I know I won’t remember everyone so I won’t list names. I forgot to take pictures of all the people!! It was fun talking with so many different folks. Sunset:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713747587/" title="Beach Bar sunset 5 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2422/371 ... 18ea84.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="Beach Bar sunset 5"></a>

Back to the house for dinner—just pasta:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713913711/" title="Vida de mar last night pasta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3456/371 ... 6890c8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Vida de mar last night pasta"></a>

then back in the pool again!

Our favorite villa pool of all the houses we’ve rented. Another great night.


Day 12. Packed up and said goodbye to Vida de Mar. Loved this house. We hope to rent it again, maybe with a small group next time. We had breakfast before leaving and do you know what it was? Vanilla ice cream! I had bought a pint of haagen daz earlier in the week because I was planning on making this rum-soaked grilled pineapple with caramel sauce and vamilla ice cream for dessert one night, but never got around to it. Well, that pint of ice cream was $9.99 and I was not leaving it behind! So we had ice cream and chopped pineapple for breakfast. What the heck, we are on vacation, right?

We got to Caneel about 10:30 AM, dropped the bags, and headed right to Scott Beach.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714671062/" title="Scott beach to STT by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/371 ... 8827cd.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott beach to STT"></a>

Baby turtles were popping up all over. We headed in to snorkel, and it was great as always. We saw four different baby turtles in very shallow water,:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713860639/" title="Scott beach turtle rising 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2674/371 ... f32cf5.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Scott beach turtle rising 2"></a>

obligatory turtle reflection shot:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713774111/" title="caneel turtle rising by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2448/371 ... a2c335.jpg" width="500" height="392" alt="caneel turtle rising"></a>


three different schools of blue tang, giant hermit crab, beautiful coral out by Turtle Point, and best of all, a gorgeous octopus that emerged from a coral stand and swam over to a cave, changing color as he went. Really amazing!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714675646/" title="Scott octopus 7 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/371 ... 63c004.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott octopus 7"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713864227/" title="Scott octopus 6 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3482/371 ... cca6d0.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott octopus 6"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713863893/" title="Scott octopus 4 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2631/371 ... eecd9d.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott octopus 4"></a>

Trunkfish, trumpetfish, GIANT barracuda, school of baby jacks, hamlets, filefish. Squid:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713858765/" title="Scott beach squid best 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2642/371 ... 845f8a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott beach squid best 2"></a>

Hermit crab:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714663804/" title="Scott beach hermit crab by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3085/371 ... cae119.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott beach hermit crab"></a>

Groupers…the variety of fish to find on the reef off Scott is really amazing.

We checked in to our room, #35, which was perfectly fine. The water views were limited, but the porch was comfortable. We were visited by four donkeys, who came right up to our patio and drank out of the foot rinsing trough! I did not have my camera with me, and did not want to move to get it in case we startled them, but it was pretty cool.

We still had the jeep, so decided to drive in to Coral Bay for dinner at Sweet Plantains. Um….Sweet Plantains was closed. Did we do this earlier in the trip? YES! Did we learn anything from it? NO!

Plan B: Dinner was at La Tapa. Yum, yum, yum! I love this restaurant! We started with josephines greens with cashew crusted goat cheese, and a mahi-mango seviche. The seviche was outstanding. Main courses were mahi with lobster sauce on squid ink orzo and a linguini with shrimp, langoustines, arugula and pine nuts in a garlic cream sauce. YUM. I guess I didn't take any pictures. We were too full for dessert so headed back to Caneel and went to bed early.

Day 13. Caneel breakfast time! I LOVE this breakfast. They have everything you could ever think of that you might want for breakfast. A juice bar, fruit, eggs any style, pancakes, waffles, muffins, bagels, bacon, sausages, hash, home fries, granola, cheese plate, the list goes on and on.

After breakfast we went into town to return the jeep and dropped a bag of books off for Ruth. Ron told us she was parasailing with LMG! Brave women, they are. We also stopped into Donald Schnell and bought a sconce for our outdoor covered porch. He still didn’t have those wine goblets I’ve been waiting for since 2003!

We headed back to Caneel and packed up to go to Honeymoon Beach to meet up with Ruth and LMG. Holy Toledo, was it crowded!! There were about six catamarans in, and SO MANY people. I thought John was going to blow a gasket. I could see him thinking: “Dragged cooler ALL THE WAY over here, could be at nice QUIET Scott Beach, GRR.”

I could not see through the teeming hordes whether anyone from the forum was there yet, so we walked all the way down to the far side of the beach and hid out, waiting for the catamaran sheeple to leave. Far side of Honeymoon:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714640456/" title="honeymoon low tide by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3514/371 ... 5b7c98.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="honeymoon low tide"></a>

We napped and chatted. After an hour or so, the conch shells blew and the cat people left. I took a walk down to a group of people I saw on the far side of the beach and sure enough it was the forum folks. They had been there all along, but I didn’t see them because I was so flustered by the crowds. We moved down the beach to join up with Ruth, Pia, Flip Flop and family, Gromit, LMG, Tracy in WI, JMQ and family, Bob and Anita, and a couple other folks (I forget everyone who was there, sorry! Names are one of my weak spots)

Of course, before we could move down, I had to clean up the beach because the catamaran sheeple left beer cans and water bottles all over the beach! What the hell is wrong with people? There are trash cans RIGHT THERE on the treeline at Honeymoon. Jerks! The catamaran operators should be held responsible. Littering is gross and really rude. Rant over!

We spent the whole day just relaxing in the water and chatting. I forgot to take pictures again!

All that time floating in the water made us too lazy to go into town for dinner, so with some trepidation, we decided to try the Equator for dinner. We had bad service and mediocre food a couple of years ago, but everyone deserves a second chance, right? Verdict: not bad. We started with some conch fritters, which were crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and loaded with conch:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714609092/" title="equator conch fritters by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2036/371 ... a40316.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="equator conch fritters"></a>

and some chicken roti, which was tasty.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713798081/" title="equator chicken roti by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/371 ... d9a588.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="equator chicken roti"></a>

I would have liked a little more heat, but it was still good. For entrees, John had the Caribbean lobster, and I had fennel crusted mahi mahi with vegetables and mashed potatoes. The mahi was fresh and nicely cooked, and John thought the lobster was good also.

Dessert, coconut crème brulee, was a bit of a bust. The top was not bruleed, and the texture was odd. The main problem with this place is the price! I guess you are paying for the location. Examples include: Lobster (smaller than the one he got at the Lime Inn): $69. A glass of Rodney Strong sauvignon blanc: $14. John also was not happy with the wine list. His notes say “limited and uninspiring.” I guess all the good stuff is over at the Estate House. He reluctantly chose a bottle of Stags Leap chardonnay for us, which at $79 he noted was the best value on the list, but still overpriced for what it is. Service was very good though, so that was a plus.

Equator view:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713798671/" title="equator sunset 5 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/371 ... fa0940.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="equator sunset 5"></a>

Back to the room, and to bed! There’s really not much else to do at Caneel once it gets dark, but that’s not a bad thing.

Day 14: Caneel breakfast again! YUM.

Today we walked over to Turtle Bay beach.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714708514/" title="turtle bay beach 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2561/371 ... f7b184.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="turtle bay beach 3"></a>

We were the only people there for about two hours. Not sure if those rooms are not full or what the story was. We enjoyed watching a long procession of sailboats make their way by, presumably on the way to Waterlemon.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713899853/" title="turtle bay sailboat closeup by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3514/371 ... 17d70d.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="turtle bay sailboat closeup"></a>

After a while we decided to snorkel. We did not find much on the right side or in the middle of the bay, but the rocks on the left and out around the point let you explore the other side of the fringing reef that you can access from the right side of Scott. You just have to be careful not to stray too far out or you’ll end up in the boat lane!

Loads of coral:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713901959/" title="Turtle elkhorn by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2608/371 ... 032eb1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Turtle elkhorn"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713902483/" title="Turtle juvenile damselfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2457/371 ... bebf1f.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="Turtle juvenile damselfish"></a>

a huge porcupinefish hiding under a ledge:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714710212/" title="turtle bay porcupinefish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3517/371 ... 5169fe.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="turtle bay porcupinefish"></a>

As you come around the point you have to be very, very careful because the current is extremely strong. We got caught up in it and had to fight pretty hard to turn around and get back to the Turtle Bay side of the reef. John remarked that he felt like we were riding on the EAC from Finding Nemo. Cha, dude!

After a while we headed back to the room for booktime on the deck and showers. I amused myself by reading about some of the treatments options available at the self centre. Herewith, verbatim, a few of the offerings:

“Blackberry Relief”

Soothe muscles that are overused by blackberries, laptops, and cell phones. Balance your body and relax your mind with this treatment that focuses on your back, neck, arms, and hands, using aromatherapy massage, warm hand and back wraps, and a cooling eye compress.

OK, that sounds allright, I guess—kind of comforting. Although my idea of “blackberry relief” is the one where I “accidentally” forget to plug it into the charger and then the battery runs out so you can’t operate it. But then there’s this one:

“The Rhythm of Relationships for Couples”

Through playful practices and awakening the senses, discover how you can relate on a deeper level that increases sensitivity, intimacy, and compassion. Experience the art of communicating and listening to the body’s language to bring about a heartfelt sense of awareness and connection.

Hmm…

Later in the afternoon we headed to Caneel Beach to snorkel the right side. It was another great snorkel! TONS of fish. Nice coral:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713761875/" title="Caneel coral and urchin by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3423/371 ... 607ab3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel coral and urchin"></a>

Big schools of seargant majors, Bermuda chubs. I found a night seargant:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714579446/" title="Caneel night seargant by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2614/371 ... 72aeb1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel night seargant"></a>

trumpetfish, coney, a school of blue tang, a barracuda:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714661402/" title="scott barracuda by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2540/371 ... 5772ea.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="scott barracuda"></a>

many grunts and snappers. The two best sightings were on the way back to shore. First, I spotted a chain moray poking out from the rocks.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714563902/" title="Caneel Beach chain moray by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2666/371 ... dc29a2.jpg" width="500" height="371" alt="Caneel Beach chain moray"></a>

While I was watching it, along came an octopus, right underneath me! Apparently his cave was next to the eel, and he wanted in! Octopus approaching:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713754837/" title="Caneel beach octopus close up by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/371 ... 8c59cc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel beach octopus close up"></a>

Stretching out:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713756829/" title="Caneel beach octopus on the move by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3445/371 ... 5056ab.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel beach octopus on the move"></a>

Going into the cave:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714569300/" title="Caneel beach octopus with speckles by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3485/371 ... 013269.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel beach octopus with speckles"></a>


Tonight we went in to town for dinner at Zozos. Yum, oh so very yum! I loved my starter—it was a housemade pasta stuffed with goat cheese, served with asparagus in a vegetable broth. Oh it was so delcious!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714737454/" title="Zozos farfallo with goat cheese and asparagus by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2609/371 ... f7a333.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Zozos farfallo with goat cheese and asparagus"></a>

John had the bruschetta of the day, which had various Italian meats with some greens and a balsamic reduction, which he liked very much also.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3713926947/" title="Zozos bruschetta di giorno by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2620/371 ... 9afab1.jpg" width="500" height="321" alt="Zozos bruschetta di giorno"></a>

For mains, I went with the fish special, sautéed corvina topped with a kalamata olive pesto served on a couscous salad.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714737302/" title="Zozos corvina by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2122/371 ... be76b0.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Zozos corvina"></a>


John had a ribeye with wild mushroom sauté, served with shoestring potatoes and arugula. Dessert was fabulous—the special of the day, a white chocolate mousse with blueberry compote and assorted berries. So, so good. Zozos sunset:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/3714737996/" title="Zozos sunset 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3471/371 ... c2c3e8.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Zozos sunset 2"></a>

Completely stuffed, we went back to Caneel for a long night’s sleep.

Finally! Been waiting all day for part 3!! Another set of awesome octopus pics!

$14 glass of Rodney Strong Savignon Blanc = uninspiring
Your trip reports = completely inspiring!

So all the octopuses were following you this trip? That is why I never get to see one (I actually saw 2 this trip, but no photos) Your photo from the last installment is my new screensaver - I showed it to my hubby last night and his mouth literally fell open! Lucky girl!

Tracy

Becky..
I think the octopus knew you were coming and told the othere like our coconut telegraph. That is why you got all the sightings!!lol

Enjoying your TR, especially the pics of the meals you create...do you have a culinary background (perhaps you mentioned that earlier)?

Your recipes and presentation are ridiculously good...that's got to be more than just a hobby. Your "Eggs Benedict" above isn't breakfast, it's art. And your "just pasta" dish could probably retail for more than $10 easy.

Great pics and report!

Love the octopus shots !!!

I am hungry AGAIN! Dang Becky, your food is so gorgeous!

We saw several huge porcupinefish this trip too! Your photos of the octupi are AWESOME!

Awesome Trip Report Becky.

I would love to take you along as our personal cook....Wow

The Shopper

I love looking at all your photos.

I made poached eggs for a salad dinner last night, a la you. Delicious !

Are you some kind of Octopi Whisperer?

Great, great, great!

Just amazed by your reports! Thank you so much!

Love, love, love your pictures...

Your food looks as good as any resturant's!

You give Steve Simonsen a run for his money!


Seagrape

Wonderful, once again!

I love that you guys had ice cream for breakfast (note to self) and your rant about the day sail litterers was definitely justified. That was gross!

I want to snorkle with you and John!! Seriously, you have the best snorkle experiences of anyone that I know. Your pictures are FABULOUS!!

I think I have convinced my DH that your idea of villa followed by a few days at Caneel is the way to go for us in the future. I'm sorry that I missed the opportunity to meet you and John but we had too many things that prevented us from going to the Beach Bar the Sunday that you and John were there as well as the Honeymoon Beach gathering. Maybe on another trip it'll work out.

I'm loving your reports. I'm curious......if you could pick the ideal room location at Caneel, what would it be?