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12 Nights in Paradise - The Middle of the Middle

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:53 pm
by KatieH
Friday March 20

I said I wanted to see a nurse shark….

We held off snorkeling Waterlemon until Scott’s arrival. It was time. We packed lunch and snorkel gear, but no chairs (they weren’t the backpack kind – which are the best IMHO). Mr H. insists on driving as far down the trail as he can – but we arrive to see an ambulance and some National Park vehicles on the scene. We still don’t know what happened or to whom. When the path is cleared we drive another 2/10 of a mile (courtesy of Google Earth) and park in one of the 3 or 4 available spots.

We enjoy the walk to Waterlemon….”nope, that’s not it, keep walking. No, we’re not going to that rocky beach, see the sand farther down”… It’s only 6/10 of a mile from where we left the Jeep.

“This place is packed” I proclaim. Scott laughs as the H’s grew up in the Newport RI area and know crowded beaches. This isn’t one of them.

We find a spot in some shade, apply some SPF 825 and decide on a hike up the first bit of the Johnny Horn Trail, to the old Guard House,


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tZ ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdPnN ... 9.jpg"></a>



<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Rf ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFcq ... 4.jpg"></a>





and continue up to the Windy Hill Ruins.


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NS ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdPnG ... 1.jpg"></a>



The views are beautiful up here.



<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vc ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFcy ... 3.jpg"></a>


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sK ... site"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFc9 ... 5.jpg"></a>


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0R ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFdA ... 5.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ya ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdPm6 ... 4.jpg"></a>
.

On the way back down we run into our friends from our trip on “Long Distance”. They’ve hiked the entire trail, (or almost the entire trail) from Coral Bay. We’re sloths.

We spot – sort of spot – some more wildlife on the way down.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U4 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdPpk ... 0.jpg"></a>

Back on the beach we agree to go for a “mini snorkel”, have some lunch, and then swim out to the Cay.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z2 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdPm6 ... 3.jpg"></a>



However once we were in the water the male child and I burst into a snorkelsque rendition of McFadden and Whiteheads’ “Ain’t no Stoppin Us Now” and swam straight toward the cay. An admonishment from the dominant male (who hates it when we make a plan only to have me change it within minutes.) puts me back on course to the beach, with a very reluctant remora in tow.


We scarf down our sandwiches and throw caution to the wind. We’re not waiting 30 minutes to head back out. Mr H wants to walk to a closer entry point, and I agree to join him. Scott and little H choose to snorkel from the beach.


As soon as we’re in the water we see a Southern Stingray having his lunch.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jh ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFbj ... 0.jpg"></a>

As we make our way to the cay we spot a very photogenic turtle

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/q1 ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFbB ... 4.jpg"></a>


who is more than happy to let the H20 papparazzi capture his lovely image.


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zR ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFbH ... 6.jpg"></a>


Some very large Stoplight parrotfish, only 1 or 2 starfish,

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0Z ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFbO ... 1.jpg"></a>

another Southern Stingray


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lO ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdQIe ... 1.jpg"></a>

Trumpetfish, more Barracuda,

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6c ... site"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdQI0 ... 3.jpg"></a>

a giant Hermit crab


<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hd ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdFa2 ... 5.jpg"></a>



Cowfish, Sargeant Majors, Needlefish and a Peacock Flounder. We spend a while sitting on the beach on Waterlemon Cay (which, my brother in law has found, is labeled by Google Earth at Watermelon Cay). The boys are cold – the water temps are cool. Scott decides to swim to the point and walk back with Mr H. The remora and I, true diehards, will snorkel back to the beach.

We stop and marvel at the things we see. I ask for repeated clarifications on exactly what it is we are seeing. The Liquid Image Video/Camera mask that he got for Christmas allows only so many pictures – 25 or so. He’s taken some video and used all of the memory when suddenly, about 10 feet below us we see a

Lemon Shark.


At least we think it was a Lemon Shark. We’ve hit upon Lemon Shark through process of elimination. It was the same color as a Lemon Shark. It was definately not a Nurse Shark. (We see one of these and follow it with the camera later in the trip .)

The child is crushed that there are no photos to show.

We head back to the beach and tell our tale. We meet a guy who tells us he just spent 10 minutes touching a turtle (grr.... I don’t say anything to him but I am ruthless with the coral abusers).


Rush Hour at Waterlemon


At 5:30 we are 4 of 6 people still on the beach. We walk back to the Jeep and decide to head straight to the Donkey Diner for dinner.

It’s guest chef BBQ night. Note: They do not take credit cards. Or travelers checks (at least on guest chef night). But they do serve a mean rootbeer float and the food is good!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O- ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Bb-_xJSB7Cg/SdQBs ... 7.jpg"></a>

Mr. H. is shy and does not want me posting his pictures. Either that or he’s wanted in several states......


It’s the big night for the Blues Festival and the restaurant is pretty empty. We finish dinner and head home, passing loads of cars and taxis making their way into Coral Bay.

More movies and reading and we fall asleep to the sound of Blues from the valley below.....

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:10 pm
by vi lover
Great report! You had such great luck at Waterlemon - our favorite snorkel spot!

Can't wait for the End (of the middle). :wink:

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:43 pm
by ifloat
I'm loving the pictures! Of course the very best thing you see is the thing you can't get a picture of. Lemon sharks for some people. Trunk Bay Lifeguards for other people.

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:51 pm
by ifloat
Oh wow...after I posted that last comment I was looking at your pictures again, particularly this one...

Image

And I realized that the abalone and silver turtle I bought from Tutu's was sitting on my desk in front of my computer screen in the Exact same pose as your photo turtle. Cute.

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:58 am
by ccasebolt
Katie - we saw that Lemon shark as well (I agree, definitely not a Nurse). He was BIG! Surprised me - I didn't get a picture either :cry:

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:27 am
by Tracy in WI
Katie - Is this the guy you saw? I saw him at Waterlemon in 2007. Maybe the same one.... (by the way, I'm enjoying your reports!)

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o4 ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Xg75HwDwOEU/RcNno ... 6.jpg"></a>

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:56 am
by AnyTing
Lovin' it, KatieH! My best non-nurse shark sighting was at Waterlemon too. I also have no pics, as I was too busy walking on water to remember I had a camera.

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:28 pm
by NoWorriesMom
Thank you! Amazing trip report!

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:52 pm
by JC
KH...if Tracy's picture represents the shark you saw...it is the same shark...I believe...that I saw last year...and the year before! I have a partial photo...somewhere... :?

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:47 am
by lprof
...really enjoying the report amd pics, especially from the Johnny Horn Trail...
thanks for bringing it to us

Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:34 am
by cptnkirk
Good stuff H :D

Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:05 am
by Joshie
...

Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:28 pm
by chicagoans
Great report Katie! Love the turtle shots and all your pictures are great.

I have to ask: how was the trail to Windy Hill Ruins? We did that in Jan. '08 and it was really over grown with big thorny stuff. I was amazed by your shot of the top of the ruins and had to show my hubby. He was impressed too with how cleaned up it is. We got a couple shots from up there, but had to hold the camera high above and between the greenery.

Here's how it looked from the stairs when we were there, and beyond that it was almost solid green. I would love if it were cleaned up, because the views from there are amazing and I'd like to go back (without donating a pint or so of blood to the plants!)

Image

Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 9:20 am
by Pianogrl
KatieH.....question: I got one of the Liquid Image Camera Mask given to me for a birthday gift (haven't used it yet). We are going to STJ in May...what is your opinion of it? Worth the hype?....worth taking it?, etc.
Thanks!

Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 12:48 pm
by KatieH
Tracy in WI wrote:Katie - Is this the guy you saw? I saw him at Waterlemon in 2007. Maybe the same one.... (by the way, I'm enjoying your reports!)

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o4 ... site"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Xg75HwDwOEU/RcNno ... 6.jpg"></a>
Tracy - It may be. I looked up quickly to make sure my son had seen it. My visual memory is not good but I thought it only had one dorsal type fin - not 2 - on it's back. But we haven't been able to find a one dorsal finned lemon shark yet :?